lemon

No, the wiper arm doesn't have to be removed, but by removing the black plastic cap, you will be able to life the arm completely off the back glass (like how the front wiper arms lift up). The arm will still be attached but it will be MUCH easier to replace the squeegee OR the blade (not the arm) with the arm lifte up.

Isn't the idea behind a CVT is it always being in the most efficient ratio based on speed/load etc.?

Exactly as Cartman57 said. You have to pull that cap off at the base of the wiper. It doesn't come off easy and it will seem like your going to break it. If you try to spread it apart as you pull it off, it's a bit easier. I don't bother with replacing the rubber - I just replace the entire blade. I have a friend with a Honda - he always insists on replacing just the rubber because he's a Honda fanatic and thinks the Honda blade is somehow superior. I finally had to point out to him that Honda doesn't make wipers - some other wiper company makes them and then I pointed out the Trico emblem on his "Honda" blade...lol.

I got a similar chart from Toyota Canada earlier this year (it may even be posted somwhere here). I recently emailed Lexus Canada for a similar chart, and they were most accomodating. Keep in mind this is from Lexus Canada. Lexus USA might have a different information. I don't know why they would, since the engines are the same whether a Canadian vehicle or an American vehicle. Click on the image to make it bigger. The very small print at the bottom right hand corner says... "TCI has made all possible efforts to ensure accuracy of this document. In the event of specification dispute and/or inconsistency, the owner's manual prevails. Note: Engine oil viscosity on oil filler cap specifies oil viscosity utilized during engine factory fill. For service refill, other oil grade options may be available for the model. This information is also available on ETAS: Dealer Communication (16) *Please discard all previous versions."

I have a nice TSB if anyone finds water leaking in the back hatch area. However, the fix involves visiting the body shop and welding the seam above the rear hatch strut mounting bracket. It only applies to vehicles with VIN #s prior to a certain number.

As SW03ES mentioned, automatic carwashes (in the final rinse) usually add some additive to help the water slide off the paint when you go through the blower. Also, the 'wax' that they add if you get that option, waxes everything, including the glass. This stuff builds up leading to poor wiper performance. If you can't handwash, or use the coin-op where you spray the car yourself, always pick the base (cheapest) wash, which 'usually' doesn't inlcude any wax or 'clear coat' protector. You will still have to worry about the rinse additive, though. I always hand wash my RX400h and have never had any problems. My wife's company car (2010 Equinox) gets the automatic car wash all the time, and her windshield was streaking tremendously, even with new wipers, till I cleaned the glass. I hear Dawn dishwashing liquid (the plain, unscented) is great for stripping wax, or the Bon Ami process may be even better as it's slightly abrasive. I have also used a degreaser (Castrol Super Clean) on the glass with good results. You should also clean the rubber on the wipers, but I wouldn't use anything abrasive on those. I'm surprised they gave you a new front windshield...wow.

If you frequent the RX hybrid forum, you'll see that I'm a bit of a TSB hound. I found some more today, but I also found a document titled "Safety Recall, Special Service Campaign (SSC) and Limited Service Campaign (LSC)General Procedures". It's very interesting reading, and from what I can see, if your vehicle is subject to any of the above (recalls or campaigns), you're supposed to get at least your tank filled with gas. I'm not quite sure of the rental vehicle section, but it would seem you're entitled to a rental vehicle as well. I believe this applies even if you're out of warranty, because a recall or campaign is not affected by whether the vehicle has warranty or not. I know several people have had recalls recently done, and the free tank of gas seems to be hit and miss (the recent RX recall for the kick plate by the gas pedal comes to mind). 050847.PDF 050902.PDF 050916.PDF 050929.PDF 050943.PDF 050959.PDF 051015.PDF 051026.PDF 051040.PDF

I'm on a bit of a TSB hunt today...lol. Found lots, but I can't save them, so I have to print them and then scan them, which is a bit of a pain. Anyway, there's always been some question as to whether the ISC learning procedure was only for 2006 model years, as that's the date on the TSB that's been floating around for a while. I found one for the 2008 models, so I think we can assume that the 2007 also needs the ISC reset when the battery is run down or disconnected. 045338.PDF 045351.PDF 045404.PDF

I've often wondered why the caliper pins were different on the rear of the RX (and probably other cars too). While this TSB doesn't give any answers, it does show you which pin goes where. I tried to make it one .pdf, but my scanner ending up making four. This TSB also applies to the RX330 and the RX350. 041620.PDF 041640.PDF 041656.PDF 041709.PDF

I was just about to post this. In the service manual, it didn't show any special procedure for bolting the sensor on. But I did find this, and don't know if it would have helped or not... ____________________________________________ Engine is running and shift range is in the P position. Press the AFS OFF switch eight times at approximately one-second interval (once for ON and once more for OFF, i.e. 4 times ON and 4 times OFF). HINT: The AFS OFF indicator light starts to blink twice per second. Initialization can be started when the AFS OFF switch is either in the "ON" or "OFF" position. When the AFS OFF switch is pressed eight times, it will return to its original state. NEXT 2.INITIALIZATION OF AFS ECU Turn the steering wheel to adjust the tires so that they point straight ahead. Do not change the steering wheel position. Press the AFS OFF switch twice (once ON and once OFF). HINT: The AFS OFF indicator light stays lit for two seconds. When the AFS OFF switch is pressed twice, it will return to its original state. Do not change the steering wheel position and press the AFS OFF switch twice within 3 to 10 seconds. HINT: The AFS OFF indicator light stays lit for two seconds. When the AFS OFF switch is pressed twice, it will return to its original state. Do not change the steering wheel position and press the AFS OFF switch twice again within 3 to 10 seconds. NEXT 3.CHECK COMPLETION OF AFS ECU INITIALIZATION When the initialization of the steering sensor signal is completed normally, the AFS OFF indicator light goes off, comes on, or blinks depending on the specific condition 3 second after the indicator light goes off. Result: Proceed to Result A Goes off: Initialization is started with the AFS OFF switch OFF (not pressed) Comes on: Initialization is started with the AFS OFF switch ON (pressed) B Blinks: Blinks twice per second HINT: Failure to complete initialization. Proceed to step 2 within 10 seconds. If 10 seconds elapse, the system starts steering neutral point automatic correction.

70 degrees??!! That's frickin' cold? LOL. Shorts and t-shirt where I live. Yes, idling is returning 0 MPG How do you like the Jeep? I really like the new design. I had a 1998 5.9 Limited...wasn't the best on reliability but, my God, the motor...talk about torque..

Looks like the charcoal canister for the emissions control (or if not the canister, the leak detection pump, also for the emissions control system). Aside from the electrical wiring, were there tubes running from this thing. It looks like it in the picture.

The idling drops your mileage dramatically. I remember you posted a while back about the effect of idling while you waited for a parking spot at school. Someone responded that the minimum you would be doing is worsening your mileage. Now you see it right in front of your eyes. Also, the mileage is based upon number of miles driven, which is why it was so good when you first reset the computer. You will see it change as more miles are put on. I remember once resetting the mileage while in a very hilly area. As I coasted down the hills, I reached as low as 4 or 5 litres/100km. If I did this after 3000km worth of data, the mileage change on the computer would have been much less.

Yes, that's the 'switch' he's talking about (maybe we should call it a 'sensor' instead). If that switch is defective or mal adjusted, it will light the AFS light in the dash. FZ6 dude, I have the service manual at home and I remember seeing something about calibrating or initializing the AFS (vaguely remember - I could be mistaken). I'll check when I get home and post my findings. There should at least be instructions on installing the sensor at the rear wheel...mabye there's some special procedure.

Yes, radiator fan #2. If they are different fuses, I dont think they are on the same circuit. Typically, the second radiator fan kicks in when extra cooling is needed, or the A/C is on. The extra air flow is needed to remove heat from the A/C condenser (which on the 400h, is sandwiched between the inverter radiator and the engine radiator - the inverter is first (closest to grill), then condenser, then engine radiator). When you're moving fast enough, the system stops the fans and let's the airflow do the cooling. Wonder if your rad fan #2 fuse blew first for some reason, and then with the lack of airflow, the A/C system was working too hard, causing the A/C fuse to blow? I would keep an eye on this since, as mentioned, those rad fans also cool the inverter radiator. Don't want your inverter overheating... Fuse 15 is RDI fan #1 by the way. I think 'electric cooling fan' mentioned with fuse #65 is the blower for the climate control.

Whether they'll fit or not is one thing. Whether you SHOULD or not is another. The factory tire size was 225/70/16. A 245/70/16 is 3.73% bigger in diameter than the factory tire size. A diamater difference of more than 3% is not recommended.

Just passed 170 000 km on my 2006 the other day. Wonder if that's the lifespan for those pumps (your 103 00 miles is around 160 000 km). With all the salt spray and snow up here and the location of the pump, it looks like a good candidate for failure. You know there's yet another electric pump that pumps tranny fluid through the tranmission cooler....

Anyone know - if you have the transmission cooler (behind the grill under the fog lamp, driver's side), does this mean you have the towing package? Or did all the hybrids come with the tranny cooler? What exactly did the towing package include?

There is no problem with "so-so inverter cooling". All this recall concerns is a bad solder job on some circuit board inside the inverter. If the solder connection breaks, the inverter shuts down. It won't affect the engine whatsoever.

I'm kind of partial to the Valeo Ultimate 900 series. Having said that, I currently have Bosch Icons and they seem to work very well, too.

Power windows, sunroof, memory seats, maybe the power hatch (sometimes mine needs this, sometimes not), 2008 model so you shouldn't need to do the ISC reset. Radio presets?

Depending on your geographical location, I would suggest 1. Colder weather and 2. Winter gas. If you are in a warm area (I'm assuming the gas companies don't switch to winter gas in warmer areas??), then I would try the ISC reset (you said ICU reset, but I think you mean ISC reset) one more time (or get the dealer to do it using their computer). By the way, every year in the fall/winter, I see my mileage change from 8.1 l/100km to 9 and even 9.5 l/100km once winter arrives. The ICE must run more often and longer in colder weather to keep the catalytic converter up to temp for emisssions and also to keep the coolant hot for cabin climate control. Additionaly, winter gas gives you less mpg. Also, when colder all the fluids are more viscous until warmed up, also leading to worse mileage. Don't forget to check your tire pressures as they will drop with the colder weather (something like 1 psi for every 10 degree drop in temp)

Never..!! RXh uses PSD type CVT, no frictional clutch components, the only heat is from bearing friction and electic motor/generator resistance losses. So you know something that Lexus doesn't? There is a specified interval in the owner's manual.

If you only use the car for highway, 10K might be acceptable. But if you do at least 50% city driving, 5K is preferrable. I've done oil changes for more than 15 years on all my cars and do it every 6-7K. I noticed that after 5K, the oil seems to degrade a lot faster, accumulates a lot more dirt and retains less of its viscosity. Personally, I wouldn't wait until 10K. It's easier to change the oil than to change the engine ;) Though the bimmers can wait a lot longer than 10K, based on my friend who has bimmmers. How have you noticed this? Have you done a pre and post 5000k UOA where the viscosity, amount of dirt and TAN and TBN numbers were compared? Did these results show TAN and TBN dropping dramatically faster after 5000k? Or is this just an opinion....you 'feel' that the oil just gets worse after 5000k?

Unfortunately, you can't bleed the brakes on the hybrid in the same manner as in a non hybrid as the brake pedal is not directly connected to the hydraulic system. The system has to be connected to the Lexus computer thingy (handheld thing for diagnostics etc.) and the electric pump that creates pressure in the brake hydraulic system has to be cycled that way. I wish there was some way to jump a wire, or fuse or something to do this and save a trip to the dealer. However, if you're just changing pads/rotors, there should be no need to bleed the system. Only if you've changed a caliper or somehow managed to introduce air into the hydraulic system would you need to bleed the system.