FZ6 Dude

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About FZ6 Dude

  • Rank
    Club Member

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  • First Name
    Dennis

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    RX 330
  • Lexus Year
    2006
  • Location
    Virginia (VA)
  1. I really like it! In my opinion it is clean and not too over the top. Do you by chance have a list of what modifications you have done?
  2. Thanks. I will check it out. How long should I give the PB Blaster to soak in? Also, in your opinion, would cam bolts from a local parts store?
  3. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get under the car since my post, but will have time this weekend. Lenore- I was not able to look at the diagram as it did not show on my browser, but imagine that once I look for the biggest bolts connected to arms under the rear, it should be pretty obvious... hoping! I will go ahead and spray them with the PB and try to loosen myself in a few days. Thanks
  4. Hello, I took my wife's 2006 RX330 in this past weekend for a tire rotation, balance, and alignment check as I do every 5K. This time they told me that the rear cam bolts were seized from rust and they could not remove them. They tried to spray them with a lubricating penetrant, but still could not loosen them. I asked if they tried to heat them up, but they said this could increase the chances of them breaking so no. They quoted me around $240 to cutoff the old bolts and replace them with new cam bolts. The other option was waiting a couple of days to see if the lubricant was able to free the bolts at all. I opted for the latter. Does anyone have a diagram of the rear suspension that would point out the cam bolts? (I know, I should have asked to see them) Also, is this an easy fix that can be done by a somewhat competent DIY'er? I handle most other things like oil changes and brakes. My other thought is, the previous alignment done, 3 or 4 months ago, took a lot longer than normal. What are the odds that these guys cross threaded both bolts while performing the alignment adjustment and now can seem to get them off. (This is also why I want to see a diagram or picture so that I know what to look for, other than the obvious rusted bolt) Has anyone else encountered such a thing with their cam bolts? Any no, I haven't been driving in saltwater or been in any significant snow over the last couple of months which may have caused the sudden seizure of both bolts.... Thanks
  5. I brought my wife's 2006 RX 330 in for the power tailgate not opening in colder weather (TSB 001305), and they said they could not duplicate it, therefore would not fix anything. I also have condensation in both front headlights (TSB 00307) Does Lexus fix the TSB's for free, or what is their practice? I am above the 50K standard warranty, but do have an extended warranty from an outside provider. Also, has anyone had water on the carpet after washing or raining along with a water stain on the headliner by the drivers side tailgate hinge???
  6. I never tried taking it to the dealer as the problem seemed to have corrected itself. This past weekend when it was cooler outside 40-50F) 99% of the time I tried to open the tailgate with the remote, it only opened an inch or so, and then closed right away. Is it possible that the struts are bad, and not a control unit? Has anyone else experienced this with their struts? Could my struts still be bad, or on their way out and not allowing the door to open, even if the door stays open/up by itself normally? Bottom line is, how does one know if their struts are bad, or if it is somehting else? Thanks
  7. Got it! It was a matter of trial and error to find that "sweet spot" and tighten it into place. Thanks all for your help!
  8. Thanks. That would be very helpful! The main reason that I think it is the AFS sensor is that it came on the very first time I turned on the car after having temporarily removed the arm. Also, I can adjust the arm location on the sensor slightly, and get it to go off, but not before I can tighten the nut down. I imagine like anything else, calibrating it is probably a simple set of steps, that only Lexus is knowledgeable too, but if they put it in the repair manual, that would be awesome to know for us that like to do things ourselves.
  9. Yes, its definetly the AFS switch. I cant understand how the contacts could get thrown off inside the switch from me simply removing the bolt from the unit, and then reattaching it, but I guess somehow it could be possible. I have not tried to turn the switch off and back on, but I guess that is an option too. I will try both of these, and if anyone else has experienced this too, please let me know what worked for you. Thanks
  10. Hello Folks, So, I made the unfortunate mistake of removing the nut off of the AFS sensor by the rear right tire, and now my light is blinking. (2006 RX330 AWD) I tried to get under the car and adjust exactly where the arm attached to the unit (not the other threaded end) while my wife stared at the light, but had mixed luck. If I hit that sweet spot just right, the light would go off, but then as I tightened it down, it would move ever so slightly, and go right back on. Does anyone know if there is a special way to adjust these, or to just tighten the linkage down, and then "reset" the sensor from that point? I have a state inspection coming up, and the last thing I need is to have some guy fail me for a blinking light that he has no idea what it means. Thanks in advance, Dennis
  11. OK, can I get a sanity check here? I am here in Virginia and getting ready to do a transmission, transfer, and rear differential fluid drain and fill this weekend at 65K Miles for the first time on my 2006 RX330 AWD. Here is what I am thinking. Drain the transmission using 10MM wrench- measure fluid output, replace new through dipstick ~4.5 qts or so. Then pull transmission return line from radiator, start car, purge remainging old ATF ~ 2qts or so, shut off car when clean fluid is extracted. Top off transmission, run shifter through all gears, done. Is this about right? So should I grab 7 qts of Toyota T-IV fluid, or better to get 8? Also, was going to replace transfer case and rear differential fluid too. I believe they each take a quart of gear oil, either 75W-80, 75W-90, or 80W-90, and it appears that folks like Royal purple the best. Are there drain and fill plugs on each of these units? With an AWD, do I also have a front differential, or is that built into the transmission? Am I missing anthing here? Thanks
  12. OK, can I get a sanity check here? I am here in Virginia and getting ready to do a transmission, transfer, and rear differential fluid drain and fill this weekend at 65K Miles for the first time on my 2006 RX330 AWD. Here is what I am thinking. Drain the transmission using 10MM wrench- measure fluid output, replace new through dipstick ~4.5 qts or so. Then pull transmission return line from radiator, start car, purge remainging old ATF ~ 2qts or so, shut off car when clean fluid is extracted. Top off transmission, run shifter through all gears, done. Is this about right? So should I grab 7 qts of Toyota T-IV fluid, or better to get 8? Also, was going to replace transfer case and rear differential fluid too. I believe they each take a quart of gear oil, either 75W-80, 7fW-90, or 80W-90, and it appears that folks like Royal purple the best. Are there drain and fill plugs on each of these units? With an AWD, do I also have a front differential, or is that built into the transmission? Am I missing anthing here? Thanks, Dennis
  13. Recently the sunglass holder on my wif'e 06 RX330 will not stay closed. Usually I am able to slam it closed, but lately it doesn't want to stay shut. Has anyone else had this problem? I believe that it must be some sort of srping that has gotten weak, yet that seems a little strange since we rarely use this. Thanks
  14. That price is realistic. The OP's was not. He must look like he has money, I swear, the service writers are worse than salesman for sizing their customers up in the driveway and taking them for ALL they can get. I worked in automotive all my life and there is no way I could have paid those prices, and I think I made pretty decent money. I can buy all of the parts and supplies (original equipment) that they are going to use on the $1900. job for less than $300. There is a huge amount of profit built into that job, even for a Lexus dealer. I should have dressed down... lol Probably wouldn't have mattered. I was marked the second I walked in. If you are going to replace the timing belt, it only makes sense to replace the water pump at the same time. The technician has already done all of the labor to get to the belt, why not have them replace the water pump at the same time? It is a no brainer IMO. You will save a lot of money, especially if you are going the dealer route, to only pay for the tear down once. Good Luck.