amcdonal86

WAIT!!!!! I stumbled upon an interesting discovery and immediately thought of this thread. Apparently it could have something to do with faulty "courtesy switches". http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/fcourtesy.html Sounds like something could be slowly draining your battery.

I had the same problem. 10ish MPG. Replaced my coolent temp. sensor and walla. It wwent up by about 4MPG to around 14(I have a lead foot). :D IT's not a hard fix either. It takes about half an hour and the only special tool you need is a 3/4" deep socket. the part is only about $15 at autozone. Are there any other symptoms?

If you are talking about removing the stock airbox, sure it will make a difference. But then so would a paper filter in that same configuration. I'm talking about people who literally change their paper air filter with a K&N brand air filter in the stock air box. It makes absolutely no difference (except more dust).

BTW, a quick Google search yielded this result: http://www.aa1car.com/library/warning_lights_lexus.jpg

Not going to take my advice, eh? Well anyhow, according to your profile, you have an ES300. This is the LS400 section. I'm pretty sure your car doesn't come with a radar detection system, unless you have the ES300 007 Bond Edition.

I think if he went through the conventional methods of repair, it would've certainly cost $3000+ to repair.Generally a car is considered totalled if the price of the repair is 3/5 or more of the value of the car. My insurance said the value of my car was $4700, but called it totalled at 75% of that. They are TOTAL scam artists :P . The conventional estamit was nearly $4700 with all new parts and at an extremely high-end body shop. I think I got pretty lucky with my outcome, even though I might still need some minor susspinsion work. My alignement is slightly off again and I just had it alligned 2.5 weeks ago. Im thinking I will need new tie rod ends. That's not scamming, that's just how it is! Didn't I just explain...? If they valued your car at $4700, they probably would've totaled it so long as the cost of repair was above $2700 (3/5ths of the value of the car). :)

Thanks for the extra info, Blake! http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/f...alse&cs=225 Looks like they can be had for $88 each, shipped, so that's about $352 for the set, and factor in $65 for mounting and Hunter Road Force balancing at Merchant's, and it comes in at just over $415. I wonder how they compare to the Yokohama Avid Touring-S, though. I see lots of customer reviews proclaiming that the Yokohama Avid Touring-S is a quite tire, but I haven't really seen many from BF Goodrich Traction T/A users saying the same thing. Road noise is hard to quantify without a decibel meter. Whenever I'm in the car and I think I'm hearing a lot of road noise, I talk to myself--I'm always surprised at how loud my voice sounds in relation to the road noise!

By the way, Blake, which Traction T/As did you get? There are so many versions.

To be honest, I have had some experience with the BF Goodrich Traction T/As. My brother's 626 had them, which I drove for maybe a total of 1000 miles. Unfortunately, after 3 years, they were dryrotted. The cost of the prorated replacement was more than we could get them new at Costco, so they were replaced. The "quietness" of the tire didn't jump out at me, but the 626 is a fairly crude car so I probably wouldn't have even noticed any road noise (or lack thereof) to begin with. Your opinion takes great credence with me and the fact that you say the BF Goodrich Traction T/As are as quiet as the MXV4s (having had extensive experience with both) makes me want to try those tires out on my LS400! If only I could find them cheaper than $100 a piece. [EDIT]DiscountTireDirect.com has them for $376 with free shipping. They are H-speed rated, though, but I don't think I'll be driving more than 90 miles per hour on these tires (at least not on purpose!), much less 130!

amc; I've got a '95 and @ 155K I put on a set Yoko Avid Tourings. It now has 247K, the Avids are still on there and there is still useable tread, in fact quite a bit. I pinch myself when I think about how long these have lasted. They are noisier than Michelins, but not by much. I do a lot of freeway driving and they have been just fine for that. Would I do it again? Yes, probably. The only reason I don't go ga ga with a response is that my benchmark is Michelin and the fact that they are so quiet. Flip side is the Michelins are much more expensive and don't have the life. How would I characterize my experience with the Yoko's? I've been quite pleased. Thanks for that info! Do you think that they're quieter than my completely worn bald Dunlop SP Sport 4000 A/S tires? a; Most Likely!.........That bad huh? Haha, well they're bald on the edges (probably from a previous bad alignment) but I got an alignment done a couple months ago and it's time to buy new tires! (2mm of tread left!)

amc; I've got a '95 and @ 155K I put on a set Yoko Avid Tourings. It now has 247K, the Avids are still on there and there is still useable tread, in fact quite a bit. I pinch myself when I think about how long these have lasted. They are noisier than Michelins, but not by much. I do a lot of freeway driving and they have been just fine for that. Would I do it again? Yes, probably. The only reason I don't go ga ga with a response is that my benchmark is Michelin and the fact that they are so quiet. Flip side is the Michelins are much more expensive and don't have the life. How would I characterize my experience with the Yoko's? I've been quite pleased. Thanks for that info! Do you think that they're quieter than my completely worn bald Dunlop SP Sport 4000 A/S tires?

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy some tires in the next two weeks or so. I found the Yoko Avid S for $403 installed, and the BF Goodrich Traction T/A for about $430 installed. Which would be better for the LS400, and are there any other tire recommendations you might have in this price range? (These tires are probably both light years better than the Dunlop Sport 4000s that I have right now.) [EDIT]I'm also considering the Goodyear Eagle Assurance ComforTred. Anyone have any experience with those?

I think if he went through the conventional methods of repair, it would've certainly cost $3000+ to repair.Generally a car is considered totalled if the price of the repair is 3/5 or more of the value of the car.

I can't run out to the car right now to look at my owner's manual, but I can offer you this tip. If you go to Lexus.com and navigate to the owner's site and register, you are able to request a free replacement owner's manual which is very handy in a number of situations. Mine arrived in about a week.

Looks good. Give it a good polish and nobody will have to know! :) Glad to see that it's almost fixed!! Now go get a job to help you pay for the increased insurance premiums. :P

Thanks, but I have not been able to locate that part at either of those locations. Where else have you looked? IronToad.com, Carson Toyota, Park Place Lexus, etc.? I guess you can take a risk and go with the eBay part. Personally, I would probably bite the bullet and go for the $110 upgrade to OE.

What I would do is go to your local auto parts store (Advance, AutoZone) and check out what prices they have. I would not trust eBay.

Did resetting the computer fix your flickering problem? The EGR tube cracking seems to be a common issue. If your EGR tube is cracked, you will notice that the engine runs kind of loud, like this video: I'm not sure if $475 is a reasonable price, but it can be a fairly difficult process. See this thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=5974 Good luck!

I don't know where you're finding your prices, but Toyota Genuine LS400 brake rotors will cost you over $100 each.

There should be plenty of automotive upholstery shops in California. Go get an estimate. Upholstery is kind of like bodywork. You can attempt to do it yourself, but it might not come out so good, right?

From what I can determine, the strut bars (that go toward the front of the car) is a common culprit, although it did not fix my problem. Someone here says they fixed their popping-over-bumps problem by replacing the upper strut mounts (what you see when you open the hood). Good luck. Yup, that was me. Upper strut mounts did fix my problem. However, my problem was not "popping" over small bumps, it was crunching when going over large dips where the shocks would be compressed most of the way (lots of force on the upper strut mounts, I guess). If your strut rods are bad, you should notice a lot of vibration when at highway speeds, and gentle (but fast) up and down bobbing motions at low speeds. (At least that's how it was for me.) I hope this helps. Let me know what you find out!

Feel like warped rotor. You are probably correct. Worn strut rod bushings seem to exaggerate the effects of warped rotors, also. I'd get your rotors turned first, and then consider more options from there.

I bet you 10 million of their 20 million customers are only still with XM because they couldn't figure out how to cancel.

DO NOT SIGN UP FOR XM. Period. I have had a hell of a time trying to cancel. When you call them, they transfer you to the "cancellation" department and immediately hang up on you. Even contacting the Better Business Bureau didn't get my account canceled. Luckily my credit card is expired so they won't be able to bill me. Stay away from XM! And haven't you heard? XM/Sirius is bankrupt!

Older? This is a newer one! :P