cduluk

looks good- i knew the tinting paint would work <_<

i love the grille (i've got the same one now) and the emblem is very unique! I also like the headlight chrome trim!

which component? The screen? screen surround console? computer? antenna? harnesses?

no one? :o

Hey guys. Can someone help me understand the difference between factory sound systems optional in the Lexus lineup (specifically the Rx400h). I've never really been radio 'crazy' with the "subs" or "decks" or whatever they're called, but i wanna know the difference between these. (1) The radio on my 08 Rx400h seems to be different than the one that comes on the 04-06 Rx330. My radio has gold lettering above the CD slot, stating it plays 'MP3's" and "WMA's" whatever they are. It also has an AM-SAT button vs the standard AM button. (2) The radio's on the 04-06 Rx330 do not have the gold lettering, and has the standard AM button without the SAT feature. (3) THEN, there seems to be another type available for the 04-06 Rx330, the same as number 2, just with the gold lettering "Mark Levinson" above the CD slot. So what's the difference between the three? Can they be interchanged? Thanks!

I would NOT use glue. If there is a mistake, glue won't be forgiving. Try to use duct tape. Yes, duct tape. It holds VERY well, and you can always remove it later on if something happens.

It's $18 difference. That would have been enough for me to upgrade my shipping to 2nd day from ground... It just seems like a lot of difference for a part that looks IDENTICAL... I'm wondering if there's really any mechanical difference other than the fact it was made somewhere else? How would lexus benefit from having to make two different designs for something so simple. Just send the same plans to both factories... So do you think there's any REAL difference?

Hey guys, I've noticed that the silver "window switch bezels" on the interior doors of my Rx400h have several scratches in the finish, showing some unsightly black lines beneath. Here's the drivers side switch bezel: (just imagine it scratched up) At first, i thought they might be "scuffs" since i couldn't grab the scratches with my nail, but it's just that the silver painted finish is SO thin, it doesn't take much to scratch the silver paint off. I thought i could touch-up the scratches. I went to Autozone, bought some silver paints and mixed a perfect match and tried every method in the book to touch them up. NOT HAPPENING... The factory finish is so darn thin, i couldn't touch it up to match. So i experimented with the drivers side one, shooting the entire bezel with silver... I STILL couldn't get it right. I tried coat after coat, but couldn't figure out how my sample matched perfectly, yet i couldn't get the right finish on the bezel. After each coat the finish became thicker and thicker, until i realized i ruined the darn thing... It was a disaster! I immediately went on ebay looking for a replacement, being shocked at the prices. I found two available, for over $200, but they included the black switches (which mine are fine, it's only the silver trim that's damaged). I thought just for the heck of it though, maybe i'd try Carson toyota/lexus/scion online to see what they offered for the units... I typed in my car's info; year 2008, model rx400h, and went through the search. Low and behold, they sell the silver painted bezels SEPARATELY from the black switches!! Not only that, but each bezel was only about $28!!!!! I love their discounts too! So i ordered each one, since all of them are REALLY beat up. I figured when i got them, i'd clear them with a two part clear with a matte additive, get them to have a nice hard finish so they wouldn't get beat up in the future... This was the order: Item: Front door, Interior trim, Switch bezel, Switch bezel Right Price: $28.37 Tax: $0.00 Qty: 1 Total: $28.37 Item: Front door, Interior trim, Switch bezel, Switch bezel Left Price: $24.66 Tax: $0.00 Qty: 1 Total: $24.66 Item: Rear door, Interior trim, Switch bezel, Switch bezel Right Price: $29.61 Tax: $0.00 Qty: 1 Total: $29.61 Item: Rear door, Interior trim, Switch bezel, Switch bezel Left Price: $29.61 Tax: $0.00 Qty: 1 Total: $29.61 ----------------------------- Items Total: $112.25 I thought this was incredibly reasonable since i was going to spend $200 JUST for the drivers one from ebay. So i placed the order. But, again, just for the heck of it, i did a search for the same parts just from a 2004 Rx330, since (i thought) all of the 04-09 Rx330/350/400h's shared the same switch bezels. So i entered year 2004, model rx330 etc and went through the same search. Well, i got different results this time! I got an interesting prompt asking me to choose between Japan built or US built. I was like wahh?? I selected japan built, and the prices were the same as what i payed when i searched for the Rx400h. BUT, i went back, and selected US built, and the prices were now about $5 lower for each bezel! The diagram was the same, showing the same bezel, same title, (just the numbers were changed) and it was giving me a cheaper price for each of them. This is what i got when searching for the 08 Rx400h: I went to - Front Door - Interior trim - Switch bezel: and it brought me to this page. No prompt for US or Japan built... But when i selected 2004 Rx330, this is what i got, using the same exact search steps: If i were to purchase the complete set of "US Built" bezels, this would be the final order: I payed $112 for the Japan built ones, but here if i bought the US built ones, it would be $94. That's a HUGE difference! At this point i figured i must have missed something. I went back and did a search for the 2006 and 2007 Rx400h's but again, no prompt for which location. I did a search for every 04-09 Rx330/350, and i got the darn prompt! I take it that all Rx400h's are Japan built, and that the 04-09 Rx330/350's have varying locations?? But why the heck the difference in price just because of location? The parts look IDENTICAL. So then i checked the actual black "switches" using the same search. Well, like the bezels, a HUGE difference in price. Rx400's no prompt, but the prompt for the other year models. The Japan built switches for the drivers side are $507, while the US built ones are $493. What the heck?? They look IDENTICAL between years and models. Could it be they're somewhat shaped differently beneath the bezels? But to be SO different in price?? Anyone else experience this or know what's up? Should i call Carson and tell them to send me the "US" built ones for the better price? I can't imagine there would be such a difference in price just because of the location they were made. I also wondered if they were each painted differently, but i know my Rx400h ones are as soft as heck, but they're more expensive than the US ones? lol Thanks for any input guys lol...

Hmm, definitely doesn't sound like the airbag marks, as those would be found on the passenger's side. I would ask the dealer what's up. They might replace the dash for you if that is indeed a defect...

can you post pictures? The solutions vary based on how bad the marks are.

Not at all :) With the clear, you only need to wetsand and polish after the last coat. no need to wetsand between coats. Try these steps after you've masked off the panels: 1. Clean the factory clear on each wood panel with rubbing alcohol. Let dry. (wetsanding is optional, just know it's irreversible if you change your mind). 2. Apply one single coat of the VHT tinting paint, making sure not to "mist" or apply too heavily (there's a fine line). 3. Let the VHT paint flash for maybe 10 mins (differs based on temp and humidity). You can decrease drying time using a blow-dryer). 4. Now apply the clear. The first coat you can "mist", let flash a minute, then apply a medium-thicker coat. 5. Let flash maybe 10 mins then apply one final medium-thick coat of the clear. 6. Let dry in the sun/heat. You won't be able to wetsand and polish any dust particles out until.... well i guess wait as long as you can. At least 3-5 hours in the sun/heat. I'm only saying this because the clear 'shrinks' when it's fully cured, and you might notice more defects later as it dries. I would definitely try this on one of the shifter surround pieces to make sure you do indeed like the finish, before moving onto the other pieces. It's not likely you'll be able to get that factory smooth finish with that clear... Might need to apply more coats of clear, then wetsand and polish the entire thing.

Oh yeah, the humidity will kill you lol. If it's really humid out, the paint will orange peel and take a longer time to dry :(

I don't care about my accuracy in the numbers. It wasn't the quantity i am arguing, it's the fact they lose a lot of the brightness over time. They need to be replaced every once and a while to maintain the maximum efficiency. I don't care about the specific numbers. Numbers are the data, i know the result. I don't make an effort to know numbers when i know the result. I stated the result, that they need to be replaced. You questioned the result, so i did my best to recall the data, which honestly doesn't make a difference since they both prove that you need to replace them. My lord. I'm just gonna stop arguing, it's pointless. I'll just continue driving around with my new bulbs while all the rest of you people drive around with sub performing HID bulbs... All i'm trying to do is help!

Whether you wait to change your battery, or change it when it still has some life left- as soon as you disconnect one, you'll need to "reset" everything, all the things i made that thread about.

I don't burn my bridges, i'd just rather not be a part of something when there's so much negativity and aggression. When i think someone is crossing the line, i point it out. Don't criticize me when all i'm trying to do is point out when someone's crossed a line.

Could be the weak point in the dash panel for the airbag, i can't tell where on the dash it is though.

Just make sure they're totally new ;) If they've been sitting in a stockroom for ages, they might have already out-gassed and have lost their smell. There's no "box" package or anything, there's nothing really holding the smell in. That's why i like to test smell them in the store to make sure they're new lol.

If it was something that I disliked so much that I considered spray painting over it and buying a cheap auto parts store wheel cover to hide then I absolutely would not purchase the car. Of course its a factor. A Lexus is not an economy purchase and its a luxury item, I would no sooner buy one that had something that disgusted me so than I would buy furniture that I didn't like or buy a shirt in a color I hated just because it was on sale... These cars are everywhere pre-owned, and you have to live with the purchase for a long time. I simply do not understand why you would buy something you hated...instead of saying "I love my Lexus" every morning when you get into it you immediately say "I hate that wood..." Not me... SW, where did Muffalones state he HATED the car? Hating a car is a lot different than hating some detail in the interior. Ugh, you REALLY have a way of making people feel like crap, just being honest with you here. You're not even stating that to ME, and i feel bad. You might want to sit back and think about just leaving out the negative (and un-asked for) comments in the future. If you don't have something nice to say, don't say anything at all. Even if you choose to neglect this common rule of courtesy, at least have something productive to say. Telling this stuff to someone after they've purchased the car is not being productive- not only that, but your opinion of his car buying processes was not even asked for, OR brought up in the first place. I don't believe anyone asked if you "understood why he purchased it". It doesn't relate to the topic at all. For example: personally, i don't understand why you got your car in that shade of purple. I don't understand it. But i don't HAVE TO UNDERSTAND IT, it's your car, and you can like and dislike anything you want about it, buy it for any reason you want, and feel any way you want about it. I'm not gonna just start taking comments you make about your car out of context and state to you that you must hate your car just because you might state you "hate" some detail about it, ESPECIALLY when my opinions about your buying process were never asked in the topic. Sorry, but you really need to take a chill pill, and stop picking arguments where you could just not respond, no? I created this thread in hopes it would turn into something PRODUCTIVE and POSITIVE, since we could all use a bit of that lately. I don't appreciate it when you start making negative comments, questioning people's buying processes or writing anything else that adds a negative attitude to the thread, ESPECIALLY when the comments don't even relate or add to the topic in question! I'm 20 years old. I'm not perfect and i do not "know it all". But i do know one thing, and that's that you're being incredibly negative and unproductive, especially in this thread. I've always respected your insight when you respond to questions that you know a little about, but i lose that respect for you when you start being unproductive and make comments that can do nothing but make people feel bad. I don't know what it is with you lately, but you gotta see where i'm coming from.

And here is what you said after posting the graph If their original output is 3200 llumens, 70% of that is 2240. According to your graph a new H1 Halogen bulb puts out 1800 llumens. So using your numbers, an HID bulb after 2,000 hours still puts out 640 llumens more than a halogen bulb...how does that prove what you said which was that after 1,000 hours HID bulbs put out the same as a halogen bulb? If we use your numbers we'd estimate the HID bulb was still putting out 85% of its llumens after 1,000 hours, or 2720, 1000 more than the new halogen bulb... The 1,000hrs i was thinking of was the difference between a new 85122 and a new 85122WX, sorry hadn't seen that graph in quite a while. Even still, it clearly shows the difference in output over time, which is considerable. After a few thousand hours, your not getting the same output the HID system was designed to work with, definitely not enough to pass SAE. Do/think whatever you'd like with your own bulbs, at this point i realize trying to share suggestions with you is a moot point- unless you've founded them. The evidence is there, you just choose to only see the "scraps" that seem to back up whatever you happen to believe. I know bulbs, i know HID. Anyone with higher standards in lighting output, or anyone who's worked with them, knows the importance in keeping up with HID maintenance. Like i said before, unless you really care about light output, you won't see the point in changing bulbs every few years. I'm only sharing this suggestion because if you expect to maintain the output the headlight engineers designed your HID units to produce, you NEED to change your bulbs. Sure, you can keep your HID bulbs in your car forever if you want. They'll "live" but you won't be getting the amount of light your headlights were designed to produce. Losing 1,000 lumens of light in an HID reflector is a LOT. It's like never replacing the cabin air filter in your car. Sure, your AC will still "work", but you'll be losing a lot of performance (which one probably won't even notice, since most people don't even know what a cabin air filter is)... It's called ignorance. You asked why you need to change HID bulbs every few years, and i've explained why the best way i can. So do whatever you like! I'm only making a suggestion from experience in this field...

yeah, the guy at autozone is right, the tinting paint can be tricky. You need to start right off with a rather thick coat- you can't start with a "mist" because you'll see spots since it's a tint, gotta put it on totally evenly without dripping- there's a fine line but with practice you should be ok :) Don't sand the tinting paint before the clear, because then you'll see the scratches since it'll remove some of the tint. The clear you got is perfectly fine, i used it all the time before i discovered the two part one. Just follow the directions on the can for that one, and finish with a thicker last coat. And no need to bake the paint, that stuff'll dry to the touch after 12hrs or so. Only drawback is that it never dries hard. And you can't use it on the steering wheel wood, as it gets "icky" after a while of use (tried it before on my first ever wood transformation back in '07, that's when i discovered the two part clear which dries 100% hard and resists... everything when dried). <_< If you want, and if you can find a temporary one, you can send me your wheel and i'll do that with the hard clear?

$29 from carson toyota online, shipping would be about $10, so your total would be around $40... http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...playCatalogid=0

Well, if you use the clear in a spraycan, you can get away with hand polishing. It's pretty soft, and shouldn't be that hard to do... But definitely experiment on the shifter surround pieces. Remember, if you make a mistake, just acetone it off :)

Hm, i find the hybrid CVT system in the Rx400h to be the smoothest transmission i've ever felt. What year Rx's were you in? Could be something that was fixed for 2008 i'm not sure... I definitely don't feel anything wrong when on the highway, no hesitation at all, unless you accelerate hard- there's a bit of a hesitation before the computer tells which motor to do what, but then you feel the power! As far as the braking system, yeah it's a bit different. It has something to do with the re-charging of the battery when braking. It's definitely "different" but you get used to it VERY quickly and it doesn't pose any safety risk.

Hmm, i think if you mask off everything, it should come out exactly the same as if you were to remove the pieces. It will just take time to mask everything off, and i mean a LOT of time... I'd recommend taking the center console out (the one between the front seats). It doesn't take a lot of time, and is kind of a necessity since it would be easier to mask off JUST the center console than to mask off EVERYTHING else in the car as well lol... And the rear seat center armrest piece can be removed with two screws, not that hard at all. For the doors, do one at a time like this: Open the door to be painted, use a rather large dropcloth to cover the opening into the cabin (so no overspray gets in the car). Then cover the outside of the car with another, so no overspray gets on the paint or glass. Then roll down the window (to prevent overspray on the glass) and mask off the interior door panel with tape and newspaper, leaving only the wood piece showing. Trust me, cover everything, as the paint travels with the wind etc; will get on anything not covered... Be especially careful with the clear... You can wetsand (being careful to prevent water from making a mess, getting in the gaps between the wood and surrounding door panel) the pieces, then let them dry before applying the tinting paint followed by the clear. You'd probably be best to start this process in the morning when you know it's gonna be nice and sunny (so it can air dry all day). You don't need to bake the paint on; it just accelerates the process. Air drying in 75 degree weather, might take 12hrs to be dry to the touch, 24 hrs fully cured. When the paint's all dry, there'll be a few dust particles in the clear (can't really prevent it, especially with extended drying time). First you need to wetsand them out with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper. The polishing step will be tricky however... I like to machine polish because it's fast. Trying to hand polish will take you FOREVER, especially when the clear is fully cured. My best suggestion is to leave the masking tape and newspaper on the door, then carefully machine polish, letting the polish overspray (from the compound) go all over the paper instead of all over the interior panels. You can use one of the clearcoats in a spray-can, but the finish will be much softer (will scratch easily) and the finish won't be as smooth. You'll also need a few coats of it whereas maybe only one coat of the two part clear. But it will work, just take some extra time and effort. Will also be easier to wetsand and polish after cured since it's a bit softer. It's really hard to explain what to do, it's one of those things you'll just 'know' once you're in the middle of it. I'd practice on one of the wood pieces surrounding the shifter, learning how thick to spray it on etc, before you move to the wood pieces on the door and center console. The pieces on the door are a HUGE pain in the butt to remove, so make sure not to ruin them :P If you complete the process and think, "Oh crap, it looks aweful, what have i done!?" you can remove the paint and clear with paint stripper. Just make sure not to leave it on too-too long or it'll eat away at the factory coating. Actually, if i were you, i wouldn't wetsand the factory coating on any of the door panels before stain or paint, only because if you do, and decide to remove the paint, you'll end up having to see the wetsanded pieces. Just clean the pieces with rubbing alcohol and let dry before stain/paint... Just be careful not to hit the pieces once done or they 'might' chip or bubble. Darn, i wish i was with you, i could do it for you :( I LOVE this stuff! Like i said before, it's hard to explain how to do it, but you'll get the hang of it after practicing on the pieces around the shifter. If you are on the VHT tinting-paint step, and accidentally apply it too thick or something (which i've done a few times) you can remove it quickly an easily using acetone on a cotton rag. Acetone won't remove or damage the factory clear one bit, but will remove the tinting paint as long as it's not totally dried. If there's anything else, please ask! :) I can't wait to see your results :) The piece i worked on today isn't totally cured (mom turned the oven off after only 20 mins GRR!!) but i'll be able to wetsand and polish the dust out and have pics tomorrow... It looks great though, i think it's a beautiful look, definitely better than the original orange birds eye maple!

I've heard it time and time again over there, it's one of those things you 'pick up' after visiting every day. The members over there fight over 100's of lumens (which is very miniscule) between bulbs. They're indeed nuts about light. I'm not saying you NEED to replace your HID bulbs (i can't think of one person who does besides HIDplanet fanatics) i'm just saying they lose considerable output over time, and that to get the maximum output, they need to be replaced often. After about 2000 hours HID bulbs are at 70% of their initial output. Starting at 3200 lumens, after 2,000 hours you're only putting out 2200 lumens. 1000 lumens is a LOT of brightness lost. And yes, it differs between bulbs. Have you ever seen the early thousand's acura TL and RL headlights at night? Those bulbs are Osram, which start out the same output and color as philips, but over time they colorshift to a violet/pink color, whereas philips colorshift to a blue color. I'm pretty sure DOT wouldn't let a new car onto the road with that violet shade and lower output... Seriously... i am not making this up. EDIT I opened a thread on HIDp asking for the graph and info i keep referring to (but couldn't find myself using their horrid search system) and here it is: And here's a response from a respected member with over 8,000 posts.... "gearbox" "guys you have to remember that most halogen bulbs keep 95% of their lumens just before burning out. the filament is always there and does not erode due to the halogen cycle, so the lumens are always there til the filament breaks. hid on the other hand loses lumens like crazy, and after a certain time, it will negate the advantage of having hid lights. you need alot of lumens for the projector to work properly since so much of the light is spread out over a wide area. if you only have a 2000 lumen source instead of 3000, it will be much more dangerous to drive since the front of the car may not be lit up well enough. and sure hid can become dimmer than halogen, ive seen it all the time and have outshined many a car headlight with my civic halogen reflectors. for comparison, i included a few landmarks along the way to compare to as the 85122 bulb ages. if it were me, i would change the bulbs every 1000 hrs to have the most output. and bulbs are cheap, i just got a brand new set of 85122 from ebay for $75 shipped. but you really need to add up your average night time driving. if you mostly drive during the day, then sure i could see you taking several years to reach 1000 hrs. some people will drive that much at night in 6 months who knows." Like i said, they don't NEED to be replaced (as they "live" a long time) but their output suffers dramatically with age... You might think a 6yr old HID bulb is fine, but compared to a new bulb, you'll wonder how you saw a thing with the old one. If you work a lot with HID bulbs and units, you'll know what a difference a few thousand hours makes...