BadBrad

Well, After investigating another thread on this forum and finding out for myself that a typical strapwrench was not going to work on the oil filter I went to Autozone and bought the right tool (see picture) for under $7.00. This bad boy slips over the rear end of the filter with nary a problem. Stick your 3/8s ratchet with a two inch extension in the hole in the back of the tool. As you loosen the filter the springloaded mechanism grabs hold of the filter and gets progessively tighter when more torque is applied. Toyota filters have an anti backflow valve. Best part about this is that if you get the filter flipped over fast enough you basically loose next to no oil. Sure enough, I had a total of two drips on the ground. :D By the way that filter will go through a gap between the catalyst off the header and the fan housing. As you face the car this to the right of where the filter mounts to the block. Before you start the job test fit the new (and dry) filter through the gap. I recognize that the K&N filter might be a bit easier to remove but the tool is a better investment over the life of the car. The tool makes the job so easy I reccomend saving your money and buying the toyota filter. To get the new filter on and tightened by hand I grabbed the filter with some emory paper in my hand for better grip. My total oil change time: 30 minutes, filter came out the top, and not nearly the big deal I originally envisioned. Hope this is helpful to you other DIY guys.

FYI the Hylander Hybrid and the 400h both use the same filter, but $2.00 cheaper at Toyota. I really enjoyed making the Lexus parts guy go get me a filter, and then I told him "oh sorry, I can get that a bunch cheaper at the dealership next door." Bummer.

With about 1,300 miles now on the ODO, when I hit the brakes I get a mechanical, one-time, "clanking" noise that seems to be directly related to engagement of regen braking. Sound emanates from what most would call the front transmission tunnel in a "normal" car. Any reports of similar experiences are appreciated. Thanks

Here is some language from the tax credit website that I like: "The vehicle is acquired for use or lease by the taxpayer, and not for resale." I like the lease part! Was under the impression that leasing would not qualify. :D

How does the tax deduction apply if you lease the vehicle? Anyone, anyone... Thanks.

I always work the spare in since this is a leased vehicle. Must extract every last dime of value out of this vehicle before I give it back. Just follow the owner's manual directions. How tough is that???

Thank you. Tires are OK.

So my 2001 RX300 AWD with 42k miles really seems to have perfect brakes until I've been jamming along at 70+ for a while on the freeway. If I have to brake (and especially when I REALLY have to brake) I get a very substantial steering wheel shake. Seems the front rotors might be warped. But, I don't get this at lower speeds and even if I take it out "cold" to 70+ and hammer the brakes I don't get this. This car has never had a brake job; pads looked great; never tow anything; it always gets the torque wrench on tire rotation; wife babies this car. I mounted up my dial indicator (no household should be without one) this weekend and found maximum rotor runout of only about 0.0025 inches. This doesn't seem excessive; I wouldn't call it warped; but I don't know the max specs anyway. All I can think is the extra heat from a long drive is a contributing factor. I really don't want to do a brake job (even though I'd do it myself anyway) 'cuz we unload this baby within the year. :whistles: Questions: Anybody else have/had a similar situation? What did you do about it? Anybody know what the maximum runout spec might be? Thanks for your input in advance.

This job is so easy just sit back in your easy chair and let your kids do it. Really!!! Ok - maybe not, but it really is easy to do yourself. A good idea is to measure what you took out so you don't overfill. I just poured the old stuff into the new bottles as I went. Yes, you'll run out of bottles before your done - find something else to pour the extra quart into. Wife's blender comes to mind. ;)

All the Lexus factory tires are horrible.

Gimme 40 acres and I'll turn this rig around............

That is such a low power circuit I really doubt it has a relay. More likely is a bad switch on those doors.

ehhhh - that would be the constant velocity joint - not the u-joint. And yes - this is a good suspect. Does it click more when you turn the wheel and roll? Have any vibration? If the CV boot is damaged the joint is likely wasted. Check those boots with every oil change.

Have owned an RX since 2000. Have never run anything other than 87. If it doesn't ping on 87 don't waste your money on higher octane fuel. The extra few horsepower you MIGHT get out of the computer advancing the timing curve after input from the knock sensor really isn't worth the money. If you want a car that is faster, don't buy an RX.

Yeah - and it looks like the best one yet.

You could probably duct tape a fluffy pillow onto it.

Yes - 4 quarts with a pan dump. Poured it right back into the empty bottles for confirmation.

Did we all finally determine that the two components are "linked" and share common fluid? On both FWD and AWD?

No need to use ramps or a jack. Super easy front access.

Quick tip - I got three and a half years out of the OEM blades by wiping them down with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel every couple of weeks during the rainy season. Cleans the goo off and then they are good to go. Do this on my truck too. Nine years old and still only on its third set of blades. I live in a hot summer, high ozone environment and this still keeps the blades clearing the windshield year after year.

eahh - its like $21 at Lexus. Somebody spank me so I don't make that mistake again!

GO to Kellybluebook.com or NADA.com to figure retail and wholesale value of the vehicle. Easy to use.

I have had it with Lexus service from Lexus of Roseville California. I will keep everyone posted. Lenore Lenore, Thanks for posting this. I live in Roseville and hadn't heard anything yet on the Roseville dealership's crappy service. Good to hear. My mom, who has owned a Lexus for 12 years swears by Fulton Ave. They even did a very cost effective job on her LS400 timing belt. I've bought two from new there and thought they were a great outfit. I basically never send a vehicle to the shop 'cuz I do most everything myself and then unload 'em as they hit 5 years. On the rare occasion (like the freeby 5k mile checkup) Fulton has done a good job.

I drive my AWD up into the snow several times a year (usually at least once a year in a blizzard) and never even come close to needing a chain-up. But I do frequently pass a number of motoring geniuses with front wheel drive cars putting tire chains on their rear tires. :chairshot: I will say that I found the tires that Lexus equips the RX with to be total crap in the snow. Git yerself some Michelins with an M+S rating (and not those stupid marketing gimick "SUV" tires).

Total rip-off. And the gov't put Martha in jail???? :chairshot: