BadBrad

I guess that since you are not driving a 2010 model (your profile says RX300) you're not really able to make an informed comparison regarding the current system and your "NUvi." I suspect the 2010 Nav system is considerably improved over a system offered in a car approaching perhaps 10 years old.

Does anyone know of hacks for the 2010 RX Nav system, similar to the overide for ES 350 utilizing map versions earlier than 6.0? There is a 3rd part that offers a toggle switch ($300) that tricks the system into thinking it is not moving which permits full function as if you were standing still. Just yesterday I attempted to use the voice commands to control the nav system in the 2010 RX. SWEET!!! It worked spectacularly and I was able to reset destinations while rolling. Hack not necessary.

Having just returned my leased '06 400H with hard to find factory entertainment that did not have a player "under the seat" but in the ceiling with a single screen and Mark Levinson Surround Sound, I'm surprised by your description. I don't know what "ICE" is but it sounds cool. SE-L is a mystery too. Best of luck resolving your issue.

You are not describing a factory installed entertainment system so I doubt anyone can help you.

The right tools???? You barely need any tools for a brake job. Really! Rotors basically fall off the car as soon as you rotate the caliper out of the way. Pads come out of the calipers with next to no effort. I was astounded at how simple a "brake job" is on these cars. Anyone charging $300 for this job is ripping someone off. Personally, I don't send rotors to the lathe unless they show visible "trouble," or are out of parallel and I don't even check that unless I feel modulation in the steering wheel or chassis on brake application. There is no reason to fix something that isn't broken. The only two special tools you need (other than some box wrenches, sockets, ratchets) is a large C-clamp and half-inch thick block of wood (1/2x4x6) to retract pistons in the caliper. Due read up on "bedding brake pads" on the internet to learn how you should break-in your brakes.

I paid 49080+ for a car I ordered with a sticker of 54800+. It is missing only a few options. I ordered the car because it was apparently the only way to get factory entertainment, which is spectacular, BTW. The "typical" Edmunds, AAA, Costco price is right around $1500 over invoice; there is no haggling. I've not taken this into snow yet but have confidence it is better than the last two generations, which I've owned and used in the snow often, to great satisfaction. I did on one occassion in the Sierras get a chance to drive my RX400 AWD through a foot and half of fresh snow. Frankly, at the time moving up hill on an unplowed road I thought the trip was tenuous at best, but I was successful; the car did the job. Of course the Audi guy will tell you how great the Quattro system is; did he also mention how unreliable an Audi is? Ask him how well "Quattro" works when the car is on the rack in the shop a few times in the first 10k miles. Lexus is not essentially an RWD system - if he told you this he REALLY knows nothing of which he speaks. These are FWD cars first under most conditions.

As a lifetime do-it-yourselfer I've moved on from using Fram. Most of the informed folks in the classic car communities to which I belong believe Fram is generally garbage; these are the people who open filters after use to see what's going in there since they worry about longevity in their beloved vehicle. That being said I found OEM filters from Toyota are inexpensive and readily available. They have an anit-backflow valve, which makes their removal relatively clean in that they don't puke their entire contents upon removal. The only way I found to get them to rapidly drain is by placing them on my oil collector and punching a hole in the a$$ end with a nail and hammer. I do the same now with my F150; Motorcraft filters and oil is available at many retailers. I've really not seen much cost advantage to aftermarket stuff.

Filter is located on curb side near wheel area. It is not covered by any panel so should be easy to see/service. From below?????

I think that is the "Check Punctuation" light.

I don't know what is going on with these dealers. Laying the credit card key in front of me; then not delivering it with the car. The claim that the key is obsolete when the 2010 is a BRAND NEW CAR; the owner's manual discussing how and when the key is used. Why and how is the key obsolete? With that key in "circulation" car theft is very possible. Yes - the key can fit in your wallet. The metal key you mention actually fits inside the credit card key and is only removed if the battery in the key is dead (to the point the door won't otherwise open); you'd use the metal key to open the door. I'm looking forward to my Lexus survey arriving so I can call my "salesman" a liar.

Pursuant to page 26 of the owner's manual.

Thanks for your response. A second question for you: Did you get a key number plate from the dealer?

Can you give us the exact quote from the manual? What you've written is ambiguous, in my oppinion.

Thanks for the input guys.

ttt

Right you are - I did update my profile - now I look like Hugh Jackman in profile :D . Contrary to that entire "Expert Shade-tree mechanic" mantra, I never went looking for the leak other than to note it generally originated under or near the inverter. I only noted it's abatement after a day or two.

Mine leaked a few days in the first few thousand miles; leak abated; never thought about it again.

Ran 38k miles on 87 octane California gas in 100+ degree summers; never disapointed with performance; never any pinging. I think the math likely would indicate alleged nominal increase in fuel mileage cannot mitigate 20 cents per gallon higher fuel cost.

My dealer only delivered two remote car keys to me. I think I've been slighted the electronic credit card key (I swear I saw it on the table in front of me when completing paperwork). Please chime in and let me know if you received this key. Thanks.

Yes - your deal(er) is a bonehead. See page 627 & 628.

Apparently you do not get a full size spare when you get 19 in wheels - at least I didn't. Can't answer the chrome question but suspect yes. The aniline leather is delicious. Only time will tell if it has staying power. On your key issues preferrences can be set to do most anything you want. Some stuff is inevitable though - if you leave the key in the car the car will not lock itself so if you walk away from the car anybody can get in and drive away. There is no hole in which to stick the mechanical key for start up.

49,087 on a 54,800+ sticker with no dealer markup

Depends. If you drive within the mileage constraints and always would upgrade to a new vehicle every 3 years, leasing can make sense even if you don't get a tax break. Its a way of mitigating the depreciation loss. There is actually some tax break in that you only pay sales tax on the value of the vehicle you expend through use (you are taxed on your lease monthly payment and on any capital cost reduction). You never pay sales tax on the residual value; if you purchased outright you'd pay sales tax on the entire enchilada, upfront - plus you'd finance to pay that tax. In my location that makes a $50,000 car cost well over $54k - not to mention debt service on the tax. FYI - I won't lease cheap stuff (like my truck - a fleet stripper) or most domestic vehicles because they won't carry a high enough residual value to keep your lease payment low (relatively speaking).

There is body side molding? Really?

Bad Brad just rolled one into the garage last night. Special ordered the car back in May since dealers, for some really odd reason, refuse to take in units with factory rear entertainment. Well now I have maybe the only one on the entire continent - to hear my dealer talk of it, and it's in Truffle Mica. They were claiming to have calls from people around the region who knew it was coming in. I took home most of the other options 'cept for handling, HUD, and laser range finding. Walk out price was close to $6000 below MSRP. I feel like Butch Cassidy. I was generally pleased with the 400h I just gave back, but it was a rattle-trap; sure didn't handle worth a darn. In comparison, the new car is near dead silent, has superior ride quality, and easily out-handles the previous. Will take me and the wife some time to fiddle with all the new bells and whistles. I'll report more as I put some miles on it. At first drive the car seems like one and half generations better than the other. Apparently, I can talk to the car over the internet to set preferences, arrange clandestine meetings, and some other stuff that I'll have to explore. This could be interesting.