EAGLE33

This is an update.... :whistles: Got my car back yesterday. Dealer didn't find anything wrong with it. According to them they did a complete check up and took a 50mile test ride, and there are no indications that anything is wrong. They suggested to change front lower ball joints ($520) and rear bushings ($560), everything else was good. Back to the issue....they said it could be a "bad gas" which brings me to conclusion that I was right the first time - it was a Seafoam that did it. For now I will take my chances riding it and see what happens. As far as Ball joints and rear bushings....I politely told them that it will wait this time...how much is it anyway as far labor concern?

Hi Folks, I've been a member of this forum a while. Right now I'm a proud owner of 96 LS400 and right now its up in the dealership for service, so I'm driving IS250. Of course its a little stiff after LS, but overall I like it. It is pretty comfortable and has power. I have a thought of trading my LS for IS. It would be nice to hear opinions from people who own it for a while....any problems? any complaints? Please let me know your personal experiences with IS compare to other cars.

I just droped the car at the dealer - let them figure it out :chairshot: Besides may be they will find something else that I don't know....for $100 diagnostics and a loaner (IS250, little stiff after LS but not too bad at all). So will see what they say. Thats my first time at the lexus dealer by the way. I feel like a virgin

My dash lights din't go on but the gages does go to nothing and the car is not responding. It looks like its shutting down almost when you turn your ignition key off. It is deffinetely electrical issue and did started when I changed my ECM. May be it is alternator, but it seems very unlikely to me somehow

It just happenes again today I wonder if my new ECM doing this. It just seems like if it would be alternator, would it go to battery power without interraption? I wouldn't worry about it if the car would do that driving 5mph, but it scares me when its doing it around 80mpg and I'm loosing power. Any ideas?

Come to think of it....I did replaced the battery recently and cleaned terminals myself. I didn't thought much of an alternator. Have to look into it. Thanx

It wasn't like only gages went dead, it seemed like the whole car....it jerked and slowed down, and the gas pedal didn't respond. It was almost like the car would stall, but it came back to normal in a matter of seconds...and then again like that. Those seconds were toooooo long I tell ya

Here is the deal.... I fixed my 96 just the other day...timing with all bells and whistles, brakes and replace engine ECM. I also put SeaFoam in my tank...so I'm on freeway driving around 80-90mph and Bam power goes down to nothing, all needles down to zero, but the car still runs...after couple of seconds it goes back to normal...and then again the same thing - twice....it seems like maybe SeaFoam was pushing dirt out of my filter, but why would gages go down on my dash? In any case it scared a crap out of me After that I was out on vacation for a week and now drove couple of days and it seems fine. Anybody have any ideas what it was? I just hope its a SeaFoam effect and not a computer.

$1200 is a lexus stealer price. Find a good local guy, and I bet you anything he will do that for $700 or less. By the way you want to replace water pump with it (another $100 for the part) Stereo lcd is a common issue, and so is the stereo light, but if you can live with it (like I do) it works just like it was the first day. You might want to check for any strange sounds, because EGR tube issue is very common on 95-97, and it will cost you a bundle to replace (specially at the Stealer). Otherwise you will enjoy this car like I'm doing for the past 4 years (mine is 96 also) Oh, and paying $120 to check....it worth it!!!

Did you check your battery or try to jupm started? It seems like a dead battery to me. :chairshot:

Hi folks, I'm finally done with all my car stuff that needed to be done: 1.EGR pipe 2.timing belt (w/water pump and everything else) 3.Drive belt 4.Ignition wires w/spark plugs 5.Brakes (front) 6.ECM or ECU 7.transmission fluid, oil change. 8. Clean trottle body It is running smooth. Now about above things.... 1.You don't need to drop tranny out to change EGR pipe. Even though all the manuals will tell you that you have to do it, don't listen to anybody. I was stupid enough to do it and payed $650 for something that will cost no more than 3 hours worth of labor. 2. Timing belt I changed looked like it would last another 50k, but water pump was ready to go. Idler and tensioner bearings were good, but seals were not. 3. Drive belt still good, and I kept it for emergency use 4. Ignition wires still very good and I kept them, spark plugs shows very minimal wear. 5. Brakes needed to be done 6. No more trottle/idler problems, but didn't notice any more horses yet. 7. Needed to be done when tranny was out for EGR tube. 8. Was not too bad. Car has 97k right now and its amazing how clean and still usable most of the parts were when I changed them. By the way if anyone wants my old ECU (89661-50302), you can e-mail me gradus33@hotmail.com and we'll work something out.

You forgetting about out of state business practice and state laws. All the different state dealerships will have different parts pricing. I live in Cali and getting part from Sewell lexus cost me cheaper, just because its TX price plus I don't pay tax on it, plus many online retailer will give you brake on shipping out of state. There is no way I can find cheaper price in my State or beat my local Stealer with it. So what are you really talking about???

What you do is buy one from the same dealer or any online lexus dealer, it would cost you up to $40.00, no more than that. Then you open your glove box, take one little plastic piece out, then you open your AC plastic cover and take existing filter out. Put a new one in and put everything back the same way. It takes me exactly 2 min to do this. First time it should take you no more than 5 min. There are no tools and no screws involved in this.....Or is it different now for 05?? Pay the rest of the money to the guy at the pump....

Well, living in California, I have to pay the price for it. I went to a lot of different shops before I did it, and that was the best price I found. By the way my old EGR was broken in half already. My buddy did in in NY for his 97 LS for $70 labor + $87 part. :chairshot: You are right, at 80Mph it is 2600. So it means I'm fine. At least I'm glad to get this out of my system

My 96 needed a new EGR pipe. So $600 later I'm back on the road and it does sound like LS again. Of course they had to pull tranny for that, and now I'm either imagine things or not.....My RPM is at 2K driving 60MPH, and around 2.4K driving 80MPH. Is this normal ? It seems like it was less at 60 before....but may be I'm just paying closer attention to it then before. Somehow it just doesn't seem like its going to overdrive. Another thing :( guy who changed my transmission oil put it Dexron III, and got me really mad that it was not T-IV. In any case he told me that this car is ok with it and made me do some research. What I found out...he is right. In all the documents, including TIS and service/owner manuals it says that you can use T-II which is now T-IV or Dexron II or III. Whats your thoughts about above issues? I still have to change timing belt and spark plugs very soon.

If you don't want to have any problems, don't even think about semi-metallic pads. Lexus or toyota rotors are soft and only ceramic pads would work like they suppose to. I got Brembo rotors and pads from Tire Rack....don't forget about anti-squil shims when changing pads.

I was near by Alternative Automotive just last week, and stoped by to check it out. I talked to Steve. I asked him to give me a quote for labor only (because I bought all the parts already) for all the things needed to be done. First he said he can't make any money doing labor only without parts, and then he took my phone number and told me that will call me the latest next day. It's been a week and I'm still "waiting". So much for the "great service". I don't know who writes reviews on the carstalk, but unless I know the guy I wouldn't trust my car with him.

I had similar problem (the car wouldn't shift) and it was a fuse. I was doing retinting some 3 years ago and those idiots kept it all day with doors open. Of course they drained the battery (it was about 5 yo) So they decided to jump start without knowing which way jumper cables go....the good side of the story - I got a brand new battery from them and a fuse:D

The problem with bending and leaving off EGR pipe would be passing california emission....I don't know if its a good idea. As far as the car driving....I drove a lot of cars in my life, and LS is far the best I ever drove...second I would put Land Cruser (90's), which has same engine anyway. But again its a matter of opinion and expectations.

Ok Folks, Here is dilema.... :chairshot: My 96 needs some work done (as you may read from my previous topic). Then again its all matter of opinion, and thats where I need everyones input. Here is the list again: 1) EGR pipe 2) Timing belt kit (including all + water pump) 3) Front brakes 4) Spark plugs and ignition wires 5) Motor mounts (all) 6) ECU replace Out of all above, EGR and noisy brakes are real issues, that I have to deal with asap. But the rest rises questions. Because I live in beautiful state of California, the best price I found to do all above (labor only - I have all the parts) is $1.8k...Now if I only do EGR and brakes - $600. Car has 95k on a clock and drives like a dream. Now the questions: 1) Does timing belt service really needs to be done now? 2) Does spark plugs need to be changed? 3) Does motor mounts need to be changed? My very good friend have 97 LS, and he did timing belt at 140k, saying that it was in good shape when he changed. He claims that unless I put constant pressure on a engine (like revving above normal RPM range), I shouldn't think about Timing belt before 120k.....his opinion. I checked and spark plugs look fine to me, and I can change them myself anyway. So is motor mounts and ECU. Now EGR pipe...it makes noise that transforms my "silent rocket" into a 73 Ford...but what does it really do? Does it makes my car perform less, accelerate longer, less gas milege? Or is all in my mind because of the noise? So the main question remains....Timing belt service....when and why.

too bad you don't live in TX, my friend has a shop and can do the works for you around 600 bucks total. He replaced timing belt, bearings, seals, tensioners and water pump on my 97 ES300 for total of $350 including parts from toyota. I guess thats the price I have to pay for not living in TX :cries:

Here is list of things thats needs to be done on my 96: 1) EGR Tube a) bottom motor mount while at it. 2) Timing belt service a) timing belt B) drive belt c) bearings, seals d) water pump 3) Spark plugs and Ignition wires 4) Replace ECU 5) Front Brake Pads 6) Transmission oil change I have all the parts already. "Stealer" wants $3k wtihout warranty (because they couln't rape me on parts ). My Indi is almost $2k for labor. What do you think? :whistles: Is it worth doing it in a first place? The car still under 100k and I can still get some dough for it.....Not really want to, but gas and repair prices starting to scare me :o

Thanx guys. From the things that have to be done there is no escape without spending couple of grand no matter which way you go

Hi gents and ladies, Does anyone know any good mechanic in Orange county, Cali area? I need to do quite a lot of work on my 96 LS (90k service, egr pipe, ecu, etc)....I've tried calling dealer and some independents....I don't really want to curse , so I just say nothing about pricing they gave me - its otrageous . I would do it myself, but I don't have time for it. I also don't want to spend more than a car worth...or may be I should just get another one?? :D Back on the East coast my friend have 97 LS and the prices he's telling me is about 2% of what locals want. Please help!!!

I have my 96 LS for 3 years now, and this baby is flawless, exept one weird thing.....if I'm driving for about an hour or more at constant speed of about 70-90, when come to a stop the car stalls :o ...it fires right up again, but isn't it weird??? It doesn't happens when I'm doing the same thing for less time (half an hour/40 min)...it has something to do with time and speed. But after an hour, it stalls every time at stop, I checked a few times.....Anyway if this sound familiar, or you know what it is, please let me know asap, cause I will do 90k very soon and want to take care of it if I would know. :whistles: Thanx all