killerFatty

My two amps put out 580 RMS continuous watts. Not a big deal. Upgrade that alternator before the battery.

ancient

Not yet I need fifty bucks for new end links before I start cutting away the ones on the car. I did finally piece together a custom air intake for my lexie using little specter intake pieces though. Now it sounds like a race car it just needs to handle like one. Btw I just ran her at the local drag strip and she did a miserable 18.2. About the only good thing was she is very consistent... Consistantly slow. I don't get how she ever could do 16s with the way it launches. If i put in a higher stall torque converter it should get me into the 16s.

How would I get the lower portion of the links out? They bolt directly to the chassis so part of the link would still be hanging on there.

My rear sway bar now is about 1/4" to 3/8". It is flimsy and I can "sway" it with my hand. Needless to say I expect the addco bar to be a significant improvement. I think I'm just going to get new end links and heat and beat the lower bolts on the links until I can pull the whole bar assembly out together. How did you get heat onto those bolts without burning up brake lines and other rubber bushings? Should I use a fire blanket to protect the surrounding components?

First thing, you should definetly check the fluid level. I have never heard of one of these tranny's failing unless the wrong fluid was put in them. Has the transmission been flushed or serviced recently? If so go to the shop that did it and ask them what type of fluid they put in it. I will bet it's not toyota type-IV.

I was able to save my door panel from death. Sorry but I wont be needing it any more.

whats your exhaust set up like after the cats? I was thinking about cutting everything off right after the cats and having 2 1/4 inch ran into an X-pipe and then splitting it into 2 borla's to finish it off.

I am still working on it. It's a 5mm hex but the bolts were so rusted (I don't think they have moved in 17 years) I stripped out the top end link studs. I am going to have to try to remove the bottom bolts on the end links and then replace both end links. Do you know of a good place to get a pair of end links cheap? BTW I also put my front strut tower bar back in and it makes a good bit of difference. Do you think the rear sway bar will not be as big of a change now that the front strut bar is in?

How did you get the endlinks off? I just got the sway bar directly from addco and I can not find a way to get the bolt on the endlink to stop spinning.

rusty

How much for the drivers inner door panel and/or door latch assembly? The interior is tan correct?

I just got this exact same problem yesterday. In that club lexus thread it doesn't mention how they got the door open which is still a huge problem. My lock seems to also be stuck locked and when you try to unlock it with the key you can feel it putting pressure on the lock mechanism, but it just wont turn to unlcok. Is there a way to unlock it or pop the door open without shreding the door panel?

Are you running the O2 sensors? Without them it might be running so rich that it wont accelerate, or at least maybe bog down. It also sounds a bit like what happened when I forgot to plug the MAF sensor back in after removing the intake. It idled fine but when I tried to go up my driveway it would die.

If four cylinders are not firing then all that unspent fuel is going into the cats and SUPER heating them. You will destroy them if you keep driving around. The smoke is likely a product of running on four cylinders.

It sounds a little like a ignition coil. You definitely need to do more diagnosis. The driver side coil is the most common one to fail. BTW the cheapest place to get an engine is definitely ebay, but the reliability is sketchy at best. Check multiple local salvage yards and parts dealers before choosing a place to buy an engine. But for god's sake do NOT buy an engine before you figure out what your real problem is.

no I have not tried to order from them. I didn't realize that someone would say they have something for sale and not even respond to a buyer. that sucks that you didn't get a response.

TM engineering sells them. Here's the link: http://www.tmengineering.net/suspension/daizen/make/ls.html I like the idea of having a grease zerk on the urethane bushings. It seems like the grease that you but when you install them wont last more than a month or two.

the two post with the Mitsubishi on it looks the the safest and best, but if you want a single post the one with the Lincoln looks decent as well as the top left one. What ever you do do not go for the red scissor lift. I've used one very similar to it and was extremely nervous the whole time. You want something you can be comfortable with and not worry about every time you go to use it. I have used one like the one on the top left and they are super easy to drive onto and if you want to park a car on it every day it would be my first choice. The only down side is when you want to lift a vehicle you need to use foam blocks under the lift point of the car, which isn't to big of a deal in fact they protect the lift points really well.

mine is a 93 and I think the stock sway bar is only like 12mm so 7/8 should make a huge difference. I don't know if the stock bar is hollow or solid, but the stock rubber bushings are shot. I've looked under there and the rubber is crumbling apart. With shipping daizen bushings are $50 so I basically get an upgraded bar for $50 except the front bushings aren't included. Hopefully my early birthday presant will be here next wednesday when I get back from chicago!!! :D :D

just ordered one from autopartsdealer.com for $108 shipped to my door. summit and jeggs were both backordered so I googled it and found this one for $50 cheaper!! I can't wait to install it and see if it lives up to the hype.

Thanks for the help. I'll try it tomorrow and post up my results.

I, for the life of me, cannot get the rear seat out of my 93LS. The lexls tutorial is incorrect for 93 and up. AllData and lextreme both say that there is to spring loaded levers on either side of the seat, but I cannot seam to find them. Can someone give some idiot proof instructions for rear seat removal? I think I can manage after the bottom section finally comes free. I just need to know how to get the dang bottom piece on its way out. Thanks in advance.

I just checked Alldata and the second step of starter replacement is drain the engine coolant. Its for my 93 LS, but I assume the procedure is identical for the 91. Here is the link incase you want to see it. I wish you luck. http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V21026084~C41277~R0~OD~N/0/41746052/56620557/56620562/110767916/34853741/34863246/34863686/34863822/34850021/147167774

gone in 60 seconds