mburnickas

I live in MA here; This is what I paid back in Arpril (for what it is worth). Timng Belt: $399 Water pump: $199 Drive Belt $35 Cam & Crank Seals: $60 Prices vary by region: Boston was around $850 just for Timing belt & water pump Harford was $700

I agree there are costs they you do not have but I am sure these savings go to other items that need upkeep. Electric motors and other things at times are more then a little timing belt or a $100 in oil a year. Plus I know (more or less) the long term useage factor on gas engine. And on the Hybrid, it is still known right now....

Now clue on the distributor since I do not have one. I would do the cam seals since if they leak, they will leak onto the timing belt. If that happens, bye bye belt. These should not cause a smoking car.

I agree it looks nice but the delta in price has to make you a profit over XX miles. I would not lease one since I think for the XXXX dollars more (for "h") during the time you will not save that amount. So if the Hybrid (h) are about $5K more then normal ones you better drive alot to make up for the $5,000 you need to save to break even.

Also the oil you select makes a HUGE difference. Some Noack ratings are low as 5 and other over 16!

If sludge do an oil test or pull the valve covers.

We are all talking/posting about the expensive$25 filter/mesh whatever you want to call it I change the filter/mesh everyother time and the gasket...Total price is $35...HUGE price ha.... You can clean it if you want. Plus I do not know who would go 150,000 miles on it.

Here is the company I work for.. UTC Power Been around for 30+ years.....been working cars details for almost 10 years....still waiting. It is nice still you get in an accident and boom...Need more design time. like lots of years here.

Try this site. I have these people on my homepage...Never ordered here but will when I need to for these sensors. http://www.oxygensensors.com/ I have baught many parts online.. All 100% correct. Just double check. If worse comes to worse ask here, and we will help.. :D I have order from here. GREAT people. I put in your car so it should pop up...free shipping! http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...=20&model=Es300 It the link does not go right there, on the left side under Keyword or Part Number , type in oxygen and they will show up. I would push the warrenty issue since it is only 8K miles out of warrenty. It has bene going long before warranty was up. They just do not go overnight...At least that is my thinking.

This link might help? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=13634&hl= It shoul dbe very to get to from under the car. I personally would buy Denso but they are like $180. The bosh ones with non OEM connector are like 50 to 80 I think. Sometimes thing fail. Should this not be under warranty?

http://www.troublecodes.net/Lexus/ Welcome to LOC. :D :D Oh, I would do a search since I remember this topic going up like mad in the last 3 months. I do not have the answer and I know the past threads would.

Well, oil additives (adds) are a scam at best. All the adds you need are in the oil already. They have the emulsifiers, dispersants, anti-wear and Extreme Pressure additives, detergents, demulsifier, friction modifiers or friction reducers, rust inhibitor,seal swellers, soot control etc. (man this is getting tired). :) There are other oils; that being stated, I feel, that they [amsoil] are the best bang for the dollar. If you are racing you would love Redline and they like 200+ moly. Or there 25%-35% polyol-ester and 65%-75% PAO. It is a good oil, but again, I would not use it for long drains. Again, there are more but the price can go from $4 per qt to over $12 per qt. Also I do not think any synthetic (group 4 or 5) make an oil with an stop leak. I personally think I would stop the leak before adding a better oil. If not a good oil, fix the leak.

Well, it will be a long time I feel. Hell, we have the fuel cells for many cars and well, I can't count how many layoff there have had on one hand! I sure as hell do not want to drive a "h" bomb around....

I know...Anyone that still thinks dino oil surpasses synthetic is about, let’s see, 40 years behind the times...I Oh, wait till Lexus goes all synthetic and then watch how fast his tune changes.

I am not going to go through this with you for yet another time. Talk about a broken record here. As I have stated before these pictures are worthless. The data (information) is just screaming from these pictures. :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot:

Yes and there race oil have a different basestock in there; plus no moly or very very little (below 10 ppm). In my eyes moly is as bad as ash in the oil. I would have to look at there borates also and what esters they uses. I know for a fact that Motul uses ester based which are less expensive, lower viscosity, di-basic acid esters, ie diesters. Amsoil did use these diesters from 1972 until about 1980, when they went to the blended PAO/Ester basestocks. I can go one and on about esters.

I like to puff at around 1800 to 1900 rpms. Anything higher is too high. Yes, it is dangerous in the wrong hands if you leave the machine there, um, like a $%^&. Never had a problem in 12 years with a rotary one. I tried the Pc type long time ago and never liked the finish...But again, that is me. You might not get "buffer burn" but can do damage with either one. In my eyes, if you are worried about buffing with either one, you should not be doing it. that is my slanted pitch. Either way, I think the PC is too high priced for what you get.I persoanlly think if you buy a PC one, you will be upgrading a few years down the road. Just trying to help.... What I do HATE about mine is cleaning the darn pad...Can't stand it.

Correct, some are like Redline, NEO, Silkolene, Motul, Maxima etc. Most of these are a lot more then Amsoil and most race oils have moly in it, which over time, is bad. If you look at the UOA, you will see which are good or not. Blends to me are not in the picture since there are blends, not true synthetics.

rpm are too high I feel. I like my Makita with a 10A motor going on almost 5 years with lots of details behind it! Plus I paid less then $190 for it.

I hope you do not think Valvoline Full Synthetic (SynPower) is a real synthetic because it is not.

Well, I thought I would add my input for what it is worth. #1) lets see some oil test here since all I see are oil names with nothing to back it up. Not saying you guys are wrong but lets see the numbers here. #2) So far a lot of the oils named are lacking n several areas. I could go on and on, but when someone does post some oils UOA, or an oil that is higher the 3.5 in HTHS, over 3,000 ppm of Ca, and over 1100 to 1200 of ZDDP, lets talk here. Oh, I also wanta VI over 180 please and no ash either. Also I high TBN over 11.5 to. I have some oil tests on my auto online. Also just did another longer drain and sending the test out tomorrow. So far, I spend a WHOPPING $50 for my group 4/5 oil changed and that INCLUDES the OIL TEST. I change my oil from 11, to 12K+ miles; anything less would be flat out crazy in my eyes. These longer drains only happen with a group 4/5 oil too so do not try it with your walfart oils. To date, I have YET to find a better oil for the dollar then Amsoil. Show me a better oil that performs better, with all integral performace, and I will switch. Not saying Amsoil is the best hands down, but for the longevity, performance, protection, benefits etc, it wins.

Fair point mburn. ;) But if even if someone can save a couple hundred bucks on the deal.......it buys some of that more expensive gas we've all been forced to pay so every little bit helps. B) ← I agree 0% But when buying a $34K car, a would only hope that a few hundred is not going to make or break it. If someone gets mad over a few hundred when buying a $30K+ car, well I think you are buying the wrong car here. But that is me.

Agreed, call several dealers as well & see how much they are willing to take. Don't expect a huge discount however. B) ← The "Incentives" is to buy the Lexus...That for me is the "Incentive"

$114 (red top) + shipping http://www.remybattery.com/350/shopexd.asp...cat=166&L2=&L3= These people are pretty cheap too: http://www.dcbattery.com/

They can call it Melted Gumby in a fricken jar for all I care, ....the shizt werkz! ...and I don't have a dic tionary. ← ← Do a search on this forum, this has been talked about in the past. Welcome to LOC. Not trying to make you work, but there is some great info out here.