mburnickas

Ya that's the key. I only took those & put them on CL & 2003 LoL! Ive always found it amazing that about every 6-9 months on CL for the alst few years. Someone will just "discover" the cabin filter vent & everybody goes wild. LoL! It's not like I was the first person to find it either, I was just the first person to put pics of the thing on there. http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/showgalle...p;condition=and Maybe most users over there can't use the search function.... :D :D

I agree. A few hours is good and a few additional is better. 24 hours would be what I would give it to fully cure. You might get hazing if not cured enough...

Correct but you can go right to LSP if you have a good finish (no marring, swirls etc) and work very well. AIO is a chemical paint cleaner to prep the surface AND it puts down a little bit of acrylic protection (synthetic wax). SG is a more heavy-duty acrylic sealant (synthetic wax) with no cleaning ability. If not (very clean to start), I would do clay,polish or Optimum Compound, then polish, the LSP then some nub for gloss/depth/reflection. But then again I have had GREAT success with JW twins; beats Klasse hands down. Then top with some Clearkote Quik shine, PB natty's blue or Butter Wet wax....dripping wet baby! SG is too finicky for me and after a few rains it is dull and needs a booster (QD).

Due to price reasons of Amsoil (yet again), I will be using Mobil SUV or Mobil 1 SS in my Lexus...so there! :D :D :D

Yup you are correct.....the problem is that if you have leaks with synthetic (many miles) and go back to dino to stop it, you have false seals to begin with. Means you have carbon, sludge etc in your engine. You need an add like Auto-RX or LC20 to condition the seals properly. Using a high milage oil is a temp fix at best. That is the way I take it.

Thanks. I grok clay and nuba, but have no idea what LSP is... LSP = last step product......aka sealants

AIO will remove wax since it has cleaners in it. I would also clay it. Then after AIO I would add the LSP; then a nuba if you want some gloss.

I asked myself the samething 4 years ago for the same reaso. I figured I would have to design a bracket off the rad or frame. Either up front or underneath. I will bump it since I would also like to know.

Not the best picture, but this is what I have: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...ore&dir=catalog You can also using a normal 1/2 drive (or 3/8) and just put a large pipe around it; if you do not have one.

Belt slipping on pully?

At times I used a 3/8 drive with 6 pt socket and a deep blow rubber hammer.

http://www.properautocare.com/claybars1.html You do not have to do it but it makes the dirt etc "more able to feel".

Here is a great site to read on... http://autopia.org/forum/

welcome to LOC! you should clay a car BEFORE sealant and wax. No, it will not hurt clearcoat. I would clay before waxing a new car unless it is smooth. put your hand in a sandwich bag and "feel" the car. If not smooth, clay etc

Might like to view" http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/video/

gotta buy some Amsoil ATF before the price hike...No more Amsoil engine oil for me :(...Going to Mobil now.

NOT ME! PS is drained every year with brake fluid. Diff gets it when tranny is done. Only get like 3/4 QT out!!!

so now you are saying on a 98 there is one (1) sensor before the cat???That is odd, on my 98 there are two (2) sensors not (1).

thank you, I guess I have to give it a try, I was thinking about poor boy's for interior cleaning, I forgot the name of it. It is called natural dressing or something. Pretty good. A tad more shine then I like but another MF helps.

I had Direct TV at home and got XM. Now I have another dish and have Sirius. So far, they are nothing great if you ask me.

I have waxed it, but the stain seems to have actually gotten down into the finish. I just can't believe that the paint on the car cannot stand a bird! Do you recommend a specific wax. I was considering taking it to a detail shop that puts acrylic / teflon wax. Thanks - I am so, cercerned! from what i have read on many threads on autopia, lexus/toyota has soft paint. Bird etching, marring, swirls, rock chips, happen alot since their paint is very soft; unlike german cars.

If that is the case, you better tell them about the cheap wiper blades too! ROFLMAO!

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no big deal..hope it helps or at least give you one way to do it.there are more way then a boat to China.Play around and see what you like. I really liked Poorboys SSR but it is way dusty. So is Menzerna but not OC. Some do not care. You could try also use Menzerna IP, FP FPII compunds instead of OC. Some people like Klasse AIO and others no. Could also use Mothers or P21 or Pinnacle...etc..etc I also in the middle of Chemical Guys stuff right now. Also somethings are beter with a PC then a rotary. Example, using my rotary OC (Optimum) is better. If using a PC, Menzerna or SSR would be fine. There are other products that are out there. So far after spending about little over 1K in the last month+, JW and poorboys is what I like the best. Prepped with OC and maybe some final detail to add gloss. If I had to buy only one out of all the products I have tried (tried many more then listed). JW wins hands down.

Pakshak is good but I feel their prices on all items are a little to high. Cheaper at other places.