SKperformance

One thing to also keep in mind is that the door closers would be controlled by the ECU's that are located in each door and connected through the multiplex bus system. So even if it is wired it may need a different computer.

I am trying to figure out if you need to have it worked on at a shop with a hoist or if one of the techs i know can repair it on his own with minimal tools. With only basic information that you have provided it is very hard to evaluate.

Duplicate

You have a crank sensor issue ,it may have been damged on a previours timing belt change. Have it and its wiring looked at.

I woudl get a engine flush first to clean the valves and lifters. Using seafoam before an oil change would be a good first start. the replace with a good synthetic oil of a 15w30 or 15w40 weight . That produced a great result for my 98 LS

What sensors have you had fail? The heater resister being replaced is a first for me of hearing one being replaced . I would get a dealer to give you a full workup of checking every possible concern for future problems. It should be about 2 hours work but well worth the insight as only a tech looking at the car could give you a good prospectus.

I made a huge thread a few months ago with pics and explanations for the exact query you have. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...amp;hl=mufflers

Then how do you know something needs to be done to your suspension?

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=6407

tap dose not have any? You should be able to have a welder repair the line you have that is damaged.

Definitely sounds like you solved your own problem. Try cleaning it again as well as disconnecting the battery before installing it to reset the computer.

What needs to be done to your suspension?

clean your throttle body

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/steering/pspumprebuild.html

I am going to revamp a few things in the line up for FAQ's This site is about the members for the members. So let me know what threads/issues need to be added to this thread. I will leave it open to post in for now, but i will be pruning this thread of responses to make it a very concise thread with no filler. This will save new and old members time searching. Let the games begin. If you have a 99-04 RX with idle or starting problems here is the thread for you. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=30723&hl= For transmission issues look here. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=28020 Navigation hacks and features http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=29792 There is way more ,now go find em and let me know ,thanks

Is it the tach flucuating or the engine rpm's flucutating. Difference is one is the engine and one is the dash. It helps if you reread your posts .

It depends on if you have a normal leak wether it is relavent to you. The fix is to replace the o-ring.

I so agree

If you have a flat transfer the spare tire to the front and the good one to the rear if needed.

All Lexus cars have a 5X 114.3 bolt pattern which is what you need for your car. Also that tire is way too small for your LS . The biggest thing to worry about is if the wheel will clear your brakes as it needs a high X factor to clear the brakes which reduces the amount of rims available to you.

When any Lexus with vsc/trac has a dead battery the system goes into same mode until it does a full check and then it turns them off by itself. Nothing to worry about.

I used amsoil and like ti but have since talked to an engineer who gave me a break down and Toyota atf fluid is one the best that the others are bench marked against. So stick with the Toyota one for best transmission life.

falciott Thanks, also the PDR does not remove any panels and takes about 2-20 minutes a dent. It all depends on who does the work and if they are anal or not but most shops will keep going if you really want it perfectly flat. i have gone for 3 appointments so far and 90% of them have been taken out. I am in no rush and they are giving me an unbelievable deal . As most shops charge about $100 for the first and $25 for each additional. They are also removing a large dent from where an 18 wheeler hit me a few weeks ago on my quarter panel. If you have them and want them removed it is worth the money. Most shops are Mobile and will come to you for the same price. Also when it is done the car can go from looking OK to WOW that looks like a brand new car. If is funny how much the removal of dents can change the whole look of a car. BTW motul is like the "Lexus " of oils as it improves my mileage and power greatly at every oil change , so it is more than worth it. It also can go for extended drain schedule as it holds up amazingly well compared to other synthetics. I change it every 15000km. Gumart1 ,thanks also here is a conversion table http://tdiclub.com/misc/conversions.html So my 290 000km is 180197 miles , I think i might buy a 2000LS one day as it has folding mirrors and brake force distribution as the only changes. No major new pics that i like,sorry. akewlguy most of the scratches where removed by polishing it , i still have a few and have filled all the stonechips so they are less noticeable. Down south has a lot more LS's than up north to me as it has a large retirement demographic. They tend to like big cars that are comfortable . The only reason why Cadillac is still around. oohryry i got my foglight from ebay , you need to keep looking and you can find one. How much is it for one from the dealer. Mine was not bad it just had a hairline crack . I was going to keep it and just get the clear bra put over it so no one would be able to tell anymore.

Well i bought my car last year as some may remember with about 260 000 km and it now has almost 290 000 km. It had no oil leaks , did not burn oil or have any other mechanical issues. It was Lexus dealer maintained before me for all its maintenance. Since buying it i have (list of things done and basic costs, most are free as i do my own work and have many friends in the business plus my personal pile of junk/stash parts) Replacement of parts for age/damage (needed to be done) $520 Right side mirror $230 both corner/fender lenses $150 right fog light $60 fixed hid leveler on rear suspension arm free replaced old battery/engine grounds free replaced battery with an optima yellow free fixed jammed trunk lid lock free Serpentine belt squealed $80 freshen up ( things to add that youthful look ) $430 both front door upper hinges P.I.T.A.!!! **anyone else change these beside me** $80 repainted the front grille to freshen it up free fixed stone chips free bought new floor mats $50 removed over 30 dents/dings (P.D.R.) paint less dent removal from previous owner $300 ground down and removed rust build up around trunk weatherstripping free Maintenance (had to do sooner or later) $740 Changed the oil twice to motul $200 replaced diff oil to motul $60 replaced all plugs to NGK iridium $20 added a K&N filter $40 nitrogen in the tires $20 new PBR brake pads and drilled rotors $250 brake wear sensor for rear $40 OEM Lexus graphite coated blade inserts $10 new bulbs for the buttons seat heaters/vsc/headlight washers free sea-foam through intake every other month free rust proofed as it will always be from now on $100 Performance additions/modifications (not needed ,just wanted to) $7000 Intake modifications free changed the rear exhausts to L-sportline $400 removed rear Y and resonators (borla 2-1) to reduce turbulence and free up some power and gas mileage $200 wood shift knob and steering wheel $150 clear front parking lights free all interior bulbs to Leds free added white Leds to corners and dummy light beside fog light $30 3000k HID's bulbs to headlights $60 4300k HID's full kit to fog lights free 20 LED tower bulb turn signals with load resistor to flash normally $10 chrome handle on trunk lid to close $20 dynamat trunk lid free 2-way paging alarm system $500 rims and tires $3000 amp cap and a sub ,removed stock sub from shelf $1500 JIC full coilover suspension $700 XM radio roady XT kit free Made taillights all red except when signal is illuminated free 4 sonar rear parking sensors free PIAA bulbs for city lights and rear license plate $10 fog light mod to turn on without headlights $15 Things left to do (not sure what i am really waiting for besides money and a job) MODS $2600 Paint/install my L-sportline body kit ,eyelids ,3 piece spoiler $1000 repaint hood and fenders $500 flare fenders lip $100 Build roof spoiler free tint 50% mirror all around including front windshield $300 clear bra front end $400 stainless steel braided brake lines $100 window visors from Japan (OEM Toyota) $200 Repairs $420 rear parking brake shoes $150 parking brake shock (already bought it but now don't need it ) $60 left rear 1/4 taillight cracked $150 clinking on right rear suspension ??? right rear caliper seal on piston ripped ??? possible bad front strut rod/bars (they hold the lower control arm axis with subframe) $60 a weired battery draining problem that sets off my SRS light occasionally, could be linked to the fuse bus beside the battery that is open underneath and is susceptible to corrosion,the only design flaw with this car) ***Drive to lexfest in Atlanta with everything finished this September*** So far i have spoken to numerous professionals at Toyota head office and Lexus dealerships who have all come to the conclusion unanimously (off the record) without any bias from me. the 98-2000 is not the best LS ever made for reliability , not even the best Lexus ever made but the best Toyota product ever designed. I find it hard to believe but all of these people are going on one thing alone and that is that they never see common issues with these cars. they only have issues if not maintained otherwise it is the most reliable Car to get if you can find one in good condition. Mine was a nice car that was well maintained but it vanity needed and still needs some work to make it perfect again. So as you can see for a very high mileage (too me) car that drives and is reliable as a 60 000km version this is a shining star. If you are in the market to buy an LS400/430 stretch or save some money and pick up a 98-2000 UCF/21 it is the best car for the money. The gas mileage is only bad for the first few months until you get over the 300 lbs of torque under your foot. Why i made this post was i spent 3 hours changing the upper hinges as they were worn . It was a major pain in the !Removed! as you have to practically remove the fender and headlight as well to access the 2 bolts holding it to the frame. Now that i think about it i have hardly done anything much to this car as far as repairs that have to be done or you are not going to be driving.

I would get a much thicker sidewall. Are they 215/40-17 ?