kingjack133

1. insert .70mm feeler guage between throttle body stop screw and lever 2. connect ohmeter to terminals IDL and E2 3. loosen tps mounting screws,slowly rotate clkwise until ohm reads infinity and tighten

....when you installed the new TPS did you rotate to proper position?......ie. ohmeter reads infinity? If not, this might be the problem. Otherwise i think it is fuel related and i would focus on fuel delivery systems.

First i would have that faulty remote starter issue resolved and if it is not.....have a fire extinguisher handy. Sounds to me like an electrical issue other than the battery.

good tips 1990LS400.... yes safety is a major concern.....but if Quixstar can be referred to a good shop, perhaps by a friend, and when he s there politely tell them about concerns such as leak problems "after" an oil change, he can have a whole maintenence checklist from cv boots to fluid levels done.......and find out about his leaking brake fluid.....which may be resolved right there in the shop. The key is to find a shop that is effecient and has reasonable rates ie. shop time rate, and has reasonable parts/supplies pricing. Finding a shop like that and sticking with them may be a strategy worth trying(especially if one is not mechanically inclined). If it turns out sour....keep looking because at some point we all need a shop to turn to.

....hmmmmm.......here s what i would do. Get an oil change done at a shop(its not expensive and they don t make a mess and they legally dispose of the old oil).......and can also check your brakes(free estimate) and find out exactly what the problem is and what it would take to resolve. I suspect you may have leaking wheel cylinder(s.)....gut shot opinion.

how serious a problem is this and can it be dangerous to drive with this problem. What is the cost of repair?

where is the brake fluid leaking from?

hi, hoses go and are the easiest, cheapest thing to repair. If it is a hose, consider yourself lucky. While you re at it, change your anti freeze and test the pressure in the cooling system. It will be well advised for the coming winter season. Total parts and labour i d guess at $100-150.

That is the first thing i would check......before the rivets gouge the rotors and cost a whole lot more.

....sounds like seals are gone maybe water pump and starter/cellunoid and needs brake job too.....a thousand bucks will get you started on the fix ups....maybe get an estimate on repairs and you ll see where you stand. GL

.....some of us know what you are up against. It s a real puzzler. I would relentlessly monitor the coolant level as soon as the engine cools after running. If there is no blockage in the system at this point and no leaks of any kind ,it holds pressure and all the mechanical componants are working and the coolant is full ,than what can it be? I am a believer in the air pocket theory at this point. I suspect you will have to top up. (I would run it till hot and then wait and check....not till it overflows, necessarily). It won t hurt anyway and use a 50/50 coolant water mix. keep us updated please(...another case to add to the list...)and good luck.

hi, its located on the tail section of the transmission. A problem sends up a code 42.

could be 1. vacuum leak 2.ignition timing 3.uneven or low compression 4. plug wires

after 3 months my oil looks very clean but i change it anyway. Its cheap and gives me peace of mind knowing i m doing the most basic preventative maintenence on my lexus. When i hit the highway i know the engine is ready to perform and benefitting from good oil. If my car WAS IN a lube shop, i d have an oil change JUST BECAUSE it was there! Call me crazy.........just don t call me late for dinner.

when does it overheat? is the expansion tank(overflow resovoir) at normal levels when cold and hot? read the threads on es300 overheating probs?

use the 5w 30 as recommended Ageing oil becomes diluted, contaminated and loses some of its properties. Changing the oil is the best preventative maintenence you can give the engine.....

check list; 1 clogged air filter ? 2 incorrectly set ignition timing ? 3 emissions sys not working properly ? 4 fuel injection " " " ?

- its normal to easily stop the fan blades (with a finger) when engine running ....... minimal resistance . There are tests but they are not simple. 1. cooling fan ECU -under glovebox 2.coolant temp sensor(inlet, pass. side motor) 3.solenoid valve(rear of power steering pump) I would find someone who knows how to check these ,starting with the ones in the engine compartment first. Why do you think there is a problem with the fan?

Hi, the top is probably just sticking.......try to pry it off .

Locate the water pump and the thermostat should be very close to it......

Yes , heated coolant leaves through the upper hose, gets cooled in the rad and goes back in through the lower hose.. It is still "hot" going back in which is a clue that the thermostat opened(to begin this process) and the pump is pumping and circulation is good and the hoses(and the whole cooling system) are pressurized. Srry for any misunderstanding.

There is a simple test for the water pump. With the engine running and warmed up, squeeze the upper rad hose. If the pump is working properly, a pressure surge should be felt as the hose is released. (This test is right out of a manuel, and the only one). You can do other things like get a new rad cap for maintaining proper pressure, check ignition timing for correctness and look for fault in the hydraulic cooling fan system. And, make sure you have no cracked or broken fan blades. Coolant also can find the tiniest escape holes, so look around while your at it. These are all pretty cheap to do and cover a lot of ground, otherwise, welcome to the overheated world of Lexus!

some things to check; 1. malfunctioning power brake booster 2. piston in calliper or brake cylinder stuck or sluggish 3. contaminated pads(oil or grease) or not properly seated pads.

with airlock , in my opinion you keep dealing with it untill it is solved. Remove the rad cap first thing in the morning and top up.(50/50 coolantwater) Keep your fingers crossed.Check it whenever its cold (engine) untill there is no need to top up......and then keep on checking checking. Hopefully, problem solved. Worked for me.....or, let a pro do the whole nine yards and hope there s no airlock. The upper hose is hard because it is pressurized, normal. The thermostat is working if the bottom hose feels hot.(hot fluid leaving the motor)

find a mechanic who knows lexus/toyotas and let him run these basic diagnostics......sounds like you don t have experience.....or if you have a knowledgeble friend , maybe they can help you......and, get a manuel or how to guide.