kingjack133

It is a hydraulic fluid powered fan.... the fluid at the power steering resevoir should be at proper level. A cooling system pressure check should be done to determine if there is a leak. The coolant itself should be 50/50 water to coolant. Check the rad cap as sometimes they fail. Monitor coolant resevoir and add 50/50 to eliminate any air lock. Fan blades should be intact. Sometimes the rad gets plugged. A rad. shop can do all this for you for about 1 hour shop time and depending on the problem you re already in a shop to have it worked on.

1. you must locate the power(hydraulic fluid) steering leak....this is critical. The cooling fan runs on this fluid and may be the overheating problem. The leak may be near the fan motor or hose. 2. Monitor the coolant level at the expansion tank and top up as needed. You may have air in the system.

did it start overheating after the new water pump? If so, i would bet that it is an air lock.

The red is antifreeze, have it tested for extreme temperature protection. You can buy the testing tool for under ten dollars if u want. I don t know about the tap but i would get the coolant changed and flushed for peace of mind.

...i don t think a 50/50 mix of red added would hurt anything, but i suggest you get the system flushed and filled next time you get a chance. Have the system pressure tested to find any leaks. I assume the coolant level went down due to evaporation. Make sure that is the case.

...is the coolant level going down? If so there is a leak otherwise if the thermostat is good and the cap is good and the water pump is good, is the fan, which i asume is electric,and the blades not missing pieces, working properly? It(fan and fan motor) should be checked out...it might not be kicking in due to a faulty relay? and check for a blockage in the rad. A rad shop can pressure test the system and check out all these factors and give you an estimate and options. Hope this helps....

The main cause of the belt breaking is that coolant or contamination from a leaking water pump has caused it to dry,crack and deteriorate,or maybe it was just plain worn . My last belt and water pump cost 700cdn(incl labor)......but i have peace of mind and miles to go. The pump isn t that expensive and while they re at the belt you may as well replace it(pump) unless its been done recently and it don t sound like it has. You ve gotta find a shop you trust,(ahead of time) dealer or not, cause when you have problems you don t want to have to shop for one.

no....you ve got a non interference motor......lucky.....new belt only!

All rad shops and most service garages would have the pressure testing device, which is simply a fitted rad cap through which air pressure is pumped through and observed as "holding". Any pinhole or larger will cause the pressure to drop,thus, any leakage would be detected. As for the white smoke out the exhaust, if your oil is not water contaminated the head is not cracked but the gasket is probably blown and needs to be addressed pronto. This is my opinion....hope it helps.

i think its a 10mm hex bit/allen wrench

...wasn t the es just rear-ended by the lady on the sidewalk and due to this JS had to pass on the lexus and move on? and he was disgusted at the bad driveing of the lady....and disappointed that he couldn t use the es.

Welcome to the club! Where is the steam coming from? Has the cooling system been flushed lately and pressure tested? The thermostat is located within the water pump housing. Do you know when the w/pump and timing belt were last changed? If the thermostat is stuck closed the bottom hose will feel cool as no coolant is getting past to the rad. My own experience ended up with the cause being an air pocket, probably due to some design flaw, which i resolved by religiously monitering and topping up at cap hole after cool downs.

If the expansion tank is overflowing, that is where the coolant falls to the ground, directly underneath.. Before you move on to the heater prob, you must resolve the coolant loss issue. Have the system pressure tested, this will find any leak. Use a 50/50 coolant water mix and top up. I believe there may be an airlock in the system and you must top up after every cooling off period untill it stays at a full level. This is a simple fix if it is an airlock problem.

The module is accessed through the trunk? No?

Don t know of any plug except for frost plugs.....try removing bottom hose....i m thinkin that should do it. Why are you draining the block?

there is a pure additive too....i forget what its called.....at any automotive dept....around $5-6.(wynns or STP?)

I agree with not changing the rear seal. There is additive you can use to recondition the engine seals ( they get hard when they get old). It softens them up and it can really control any seeping. Monitor the oil level and add as needed(oil). Way cheaper and takes away the threat of them further !Removed! something else up and costing you even more.....way more. The brakes should not be expensive. Get different estimates and opinions. You NEED brakes,ABS or not, make sure you trust them. And finally, once these are addressed, keep your Lexus, and let the LOC help you get through the repair grind unless of course you get an offer you can t refuse. Better to sell it while its running.

Lexucan uses it to store old running shoes(and mt wine bottles) so it doesn t stink up the cabin and it also makes his wife think he s heading to whistler......!!

Hey, I feel your pain. Try anything you can for a temporary fix....but thats all it is, temporary, maybe buy a few miles. The white smoke sounds like steam and you might have a cracked head(cylinder wall) where the coolant gets in and turns to exhaust steam. Makes enough to look like you are creating a thick fog on a clear nite. Means a new upper motor....big bucks. If its just the head gasket a good/fair mechanic can replace at way less cost. Get different estimates. Thats about it for now. Good luck!

Dropping the tank is a ten step process and must be done with great attention to safety. I m not sure why you want to drop it though.....explain.

i heard that lexucan once jammed an old shoe into the cd player expecting to hear soul music but all it did was make his doggy heel and his wife beg!!

1 turn everything OFF 2 remove clamps 3 clean posts/clean clamps 4 apply treated felt post washers and vasolene...prevents corrosion 5 do all this in a timely manner. if you take to long the airbags are disarmed and must be reset by a dealer. i don t know what that time factor is.

1. clean the battery terminals with baking soda/water/and wirebrush..... see what happens 2. have a transmission service done...see what happens 3. putting the car in neutral or park should not hurt or looswen anything

My hunch is moisture(water) in the fuel line/fuel. Try some gas treatment, it may help. Also check/change the fuel filter. These are fast and cheap to do and might be the problem.

One thing i can tell you is that the hydraulic fan has very little resistance and you can stop it with one finger(at any speed) and thats normal. I ve done it. Personally, i would wait and see what happens. If it starts to overheat at some point, then you can try and figure out the cause. Meanwhile you can do a pressure test on the cooling system and that may reveal something. If the pressure holds....thats a good sign. The fan should speed up when its needed to cool the motor.