pauljcl

I have the Michelin's on my 2004 RX330, which has the 18" wheels. This is the second set of Michelins and I am not thrilled with the mileage. I think I got about 40k miles on the first set, which is considerably less than the 75k or so that I get on my wife's Honda CRV. I think it has to do with these 18" wide profile tires being softer rubber. That said, I must say that they ride so much nicer than the Goodyears that came with it, there is no comparison. I pay more for the luxury, but then I did that when I bought the Lexus. Tire Rack makes it very easy to find the tires for your car. If you select 2004, then Lexus, it gives you the option of 17 vs. 18 inch wheels. From there, they give you a dozen or more tire options for that wheel. I used their option of selecting a local installer, and they shipped the tires directly to the installer. I knew beforehand what the installation price was going to be. Even though the installer sells the tires themselves, they were very cordial with my business. I saved about $200 going with Tire Rack. As promised, I checked the Michelins that came with the 09RX350 - 18" wheels. They are Michelin Energy - MXV4 - S8 tires.

I have a 09RX350 with the 18" wheels, and it came with Michelin tires. I've only got 6600 miles on it, but the tires are fine: good grip, low noise, good 'feel' (if 'feel' is not an oxymoron when associated to RX steering) and they seem to be OK in the rain, including hard tropical showers. I haven't tried them in cold conditions... I assume you have the 17" wheels, and I don't know if the original 18" Michelins come in your size. Maybe you can check on tirerack.com? Thanks for your reply. I have 18" wheels too, so the Michelin tires are a possibility. Do you know the exact model? I think Tirerack.com is a good source but I can't seem to find enough Lexus RX330 user reviews to trust their tire ratings. Some tires have great spec's on tirerack.com but have horrible user reviews from Lexus owners. I'm hoping that I'll hear from a Lexus RX330 owner directly, that purchased a set of all season tires that they loved and could highly recommend. I'll check on the 18" OEM Michelin tires that Lexus is currently putting on the RX330 and see if they'll work for me. I believe they are the Michelin "Energy", but will check later and revert. The RX330 was discontinued (2007) and the RX350 replaced it. A call to a dealer would probably provide an answer.

OMG... I just checked it this afternoon, and sure enough, that is what it was (the floor mat was pushed way up under the accelerator) ... I can't believe my car accelerates so fast now!! THANK YOU BOTH soooo much. I feel really stupid The driver's floormat has a hole left rear in which you fit the floor anchor. The mat then does not move. Apart from the annoyance of slow acceleration, it is a safety hazard to have the mat move while you drive.... so its worth your while to fit the hole over the anchor, which takes all of less than a minute....

I have a 09RX350 with the 18" wheels, and it came with Michelin tires. I've only got 6600 miles on it, but the tires are fine: good grip, low noise, good 'feel' (if 'feel' is not an oxymoron when associated to RX steering) and they seem to be OK in the rain, including hard tropical showers. I haven't tried them in cold conditions... I assume you have the 17" wheels, and I don't know if the original 18" Michelins come in your size. Maybe you can check on tirerack.com?

If your car is like the RX350, inasmuch as they can be detected by your car, they can be repogrammed by using the 'hidden' switch under the steering, as described in the manual.

Is it possible that Lexus does not know the answer????? Maybe a letter to Lexus would provide an answer that would be conclusive to all? Paul- several have asked that question of those that work on them at both Toyota and Lexus dealers and have gotten conflicting information. I'm sure some of them thought they got accurate information (so-to-speak from the horses mouth). Having worked in different dealerships for many years, I am not surprised at this. There are good and bad, knowledgeable and unknowledgeable in every field. I wondered myself, why it was so hard to pin this information down accurately. I believe in a conversation on this subject on this or another Lexus forum a few months back, the issue was, at least to my satisfaction (being a stickler for FACT, that's not always easy to come by), put to rest. Gates site lists the 1MZFE- VVT-I as INTERFERENCE. The non- VVT is NON-INTERFERENCE. The fact that where the valves are in the VVT seems to be where the difference lies. There are those that say they, or someone they know had a belt break break and it did no damage causes them to believe they are non-interference. This will be debated til the end of time, but at least to me, a stickler for fact, that explanation for an engine that is listed as INTERFERENCE by someone who SHOULD know, sometimes does not cause damage when a belt breaks, makes sense, and I accept it. Now for Artbuc, if you live to see this FINALLY put to rest, you're gonna outlive ALL the rest of us! I was not clear... I meant writing/enquiring to Lexus, not a dealer or salesman who, unless they have experienced the problem, most probably have never had cause to think about it. Also, while non-VVT engines have a "set" high point and valve extension/protrusion, the VVT engine probably has several possible position of the valves for the high piston points. Of course (joke) the simplest way to find out is to take an old engine, set it on the high piston point, and just force the cams in all VVT positions to push the valves, and see what happens.... But I'll be interested to know the answer, though I have changed my timing belt at 6years (60K miles only!) as recommended, because what's the point in taking the risk? Even if there is no damage to the engine, the inconvenience of breaking down is too great to gamble on/against.

Is it possible that Lexus does not know the answer????? Maybe a letter to Lexus would provide an answer that would be conclusive to all?

I know exactly how you feel. I had a brand-new (one week old) Mercedes keyed in NY, and my sense of violation and hatred (yes: hatred!) towards whoever did such a gratuitous and uncalled-for act was immense. You will do what I did: had the car repainted and eventually 'moved on' mentally. The car will look good, and you can be comfortable in the knowledge that whoever did it is a real 'loser': his lot in life will be in no way comparable to yours. Good luck....

I bought a 2009 Brandywine Mica Rx350 with navigation. I live in Canada and the vehicle is from the states. Bought it for 46k (not including taxes) and only has 800km on it so it's practically brand new. Pretty good deal in my opinion since many used car dealers in Ontario don't have many rx350s with such low mileage and pricing. If you go to a Lexus dealer they'll probably ask for atleast 60k. For a while, in the USA - for sure Jan & Feb 2009, and maybe longer(?), Lexus offered 'marketing support' to the dealers of $5,000 per car to get rid of the 2009 RXs, in anticipation and as the 2010 RXs came in. Dealers also stretched to give invoice to invoice slightly +, and this resulted in $8-10K (or sometimes a touch more) discount of MSRP for the 2009 RXs. I don't know how long the program continued (continues?). You can check that on Edmunds.com (check rebates on cars). I would venture that a good price is anything under inv. +$500, less another $5,000 as long as the rebate is/was in effect. I got 'my' 09RX350 AWD early Feb. at $35.5K (due to the rebate) with Premium Lux., 18" wheels, HID etc.. but no nav. Not the greatest price at the time but good enough for me, given the lack of AWDs in FL. Without the Lexus 'support' price would have been $40.5K, and MSRP was $45K. Enjoy the car. Whatever the price, it's a great car, and well worth it.

For outdoor apps., I am a fan of marine glue, which remains a touch flexible and does not deteriorate in wet conditions. The rest of the suggestions (e.g. light sanding - full length/very thin coat) apply. Give it at least 12hrs. cure period. Good luck.

The problem I had (and resolved) was that - using the power button for the door - the door would immediately come down as soon as it touched anything on the way up. So, until I changed garage spot, I used the 'manual' clicker above the license plate.

I had a rattle and it turned out to be the license plate & holder that sometimes rattled. Double-stick rubber took car of that problem. But when I originally bought the car, a muffler bracket also rattled, but the sound was more to the back UNDER the car.

I had the same problem with my 09RX350. I changed garage spot. Other thaqn moving, an alternative is to open the hatch door 'manually', i.e. by clicking on the back handle and restraining the speed of the 'up' movement (though it still goes as high), and putting something on the garage door (for me: beam) that protects the hatch from damage.

I don't know the configuration of your back 'handle', but when I got my 99RX300, there was no coat hook. I was sure that was an oversight, talked to the dealer,m and - presto! - they came up with a coat hook that has a slightly open ring in the back and fits over the handle, and looks as original as can be. I am sure that the part is available separately. It might be the best solution?

Have you checked the brake pedal switch?

Lenore: you are probably correct. Has anyone had / or had someone they know have / an interference engine problem in a RX300 because of a failed timing belt?

Up here in TC, Michigan, there are lots of bugs and quite a bit of gravel on the roads. They tend to hit the front of cars (and, in the case of bugs, end their life there) whenever one drives even a short distance at highway speeds. A way to protect one's car against them is to apply a kind of 'shrink wrap' clear bra over the front, or part of the front, of the car. There seem to be several brands available: 3MScotchguard, Xcell, ClearBra... and others. Has anyone had experience with any of those products, and is any superior to the other? What do you think a fair price for the product (incl. application) should be for the RX350/ front only? In advance, thanks for your comments....

radioactiveboyscout- I think I'm gonna take you at your word... and stay a long ways from you. I'm betting that you went to the parts house and got an aftermarket belt, because what Lenore was referring to in telling rdragoo to be sure and use OEM Mitsuboshi (Toyota/Lexus original equipment) belt was because they have always come with ALL pertinent marks already on the belt. Also, that they will likely long outlast the aftermarket belts. Also, the interference vs. non-interference has been beaten to death and buried a long time ago and some pretty intelligent people on this board have come to a conclusion as to what reality is in this respect. I think it best to let you newcomers think whatever you want, rather than confusing you with the facts. Ahh someone taking my advice. Wonderful! As for what Lenore was referring to ...does not completely touch on what I was suggesting. If you read my post again you will see that my suggestion is to not rely on the factory timing belt marks but to actually mark the pulleys with something more readable than the pulley's timing notches. I used white fingernail polish because it does not easily rub off or wash away. You see I find that the notches are very difficult to accurately sight with the engine marks anyway. It is also unlikely the pulley timing marks will line up with engine marks anyway. And unless the individual want to set the engine to TDC, which of course isn't absolutely necessary but highly recommended, the pulley notches may not be even be pointing at the belt. Sighting the pulley marks is especially difficult when the engine is transverse mounted with one bank of cylinders against the firewall. Keep in mind that when you remove the factory belt the timing paint on it is usually worn away. If they were present they are also very unlikely to land directly on the notches in the pulley. Again, by marking the old belt and pulley you can then check the old belt against new and transfer marks if necessary. By transferring marks or at least lining the belts up to see that you didn't buy the wrong one you will be more likely to get the new belt back on the pulleys in the exact place the old one came from. Also, I would not assume that everyone visiting this forum is going to buy OEM. As most people will not, it is pertinent to transfer the marks yourself. Since this forum is about passing along information to all people and not just people that are determined to buy OEM parts I thought I would mention that detail. As far as intelligent people concluding one thing or another. I find that the intelligence of a debater can never be used as evidence to whether something is correct or incorrect. I give you one very famous example. Albert Einstein, the father of modern physics and arguably an intelligent man could not, would not, refused to believe many of the assertions of quantum mechanics. Turns out he was wrong. Not judging what side of the camp you sit on I would be appreciative of any information that lends evidence to whether the 99 RX300 is interference or not. The majority of the research I have done indicates it is not. And I would like readers of this forum to know that I sit in that camp. Being the true skeptic that I am if someone can present evidence to me otherwise I have been known to change my mind. Thanks for pointing out that I was not completely clear with my suggestion. Of course, everything is relative. But the proof of the pudding, so to speak, is whether anyone has had a timing belt fail (in an RX) and whether engine damage due to interference resulted. I was warned by the dealer of risk of major problems (i.e. engine was interference) and changed the timing belt after the car had 60K miles (six years, as recommended by Lexus Manual), on the theory that it is not only use but also the effluxion of time that deteriorates the material. Reading various postings, I have come to the conclusion that it was not really needed, since the posts have commented on the exceptionally resistant nature of the timing belt and its remarkably good condition after miles in the six figures. Back to interference engine or not for the RX: has anyone had a timing belt break or problem that cause dthe engine to damage (interference)? If not, one can conclude that either timing belts never break, or else that the engine is non-interference.

The clips (I assume you mean the 'anchors': they ae shaped like little anchors and screw into the side instead of the existing screws?) do indeed come separately. I have a (vertical) cargo net on my new 09RX350, and one anchor was defective (half of it was fractured). I requested a new 'anchor', and the dealer sent me two, in a package they had ordered/received as separate parts. I would try another Lexus dealer or, alternatively, a Toyota dealer (Highlander is the equivalent). I cannot speak as to the coarseness of the Toyota vs. Lexus screws; you would have to check that out yourself. Good luck!

I found the following detailed description of 'how to replace the "d" light": http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...ight-out-3.html It is excellent in its detail, but: 1. I did not know how to disconnect the instrument cluster light 'dimmer' from the trim, so I left it on and just twisted the black trim to the left (with the dimmer) out of the way; 2. you don't need to disconnect the three connectors to the cluster, nor do you need to remove the (white) back of the cluster: by twisting it 'ingeniously' you can access the bulbs and change them. 3. Further down in the website above, they give the part number for the bulb, and discuss a number of prices. I ordered mine at a Toyota dealer (the number 'translated' correctly), and the bulb cost just over $5. 4. It took less than 30mns to change. Works fine now. Next thing to work on: cleaning the IACV ! The instructions of this (lexusownersclub) site seem very complete.

I don't know if this is any help... I bought an 09RX350 and enjoy the greater power etc... - But I did this when/because of the Lexus incentive reduction in price. Prior to that, after speaking to a foreman at the dealership, when I wa shesitating between an 06RX330 and 07RX350, he advised to get the 06 because, he said, the model had been thoroughly sorted out and it was usually more reliable than the model of the year of a model change. There is also no doubt that the price of an 06RX330 will be substantially lower than that of an 07RX350, since it is not only a year older, but also two models away from the latest. Apart from the larger, more powerful engine, I do not know the difference between the two. You might want to see what those differences are (incl. more power) and whether they are important to you. If it were me, I would also look at the condition of the cars offered and their mileage.... You can check the price difference by going to the Web sites of :exus dealers and saeeing the difference in offering prices, as well as on Edmunds.com or KBB.com. Good luck!

If it's a temporary use, why not use the available cigarette lighter receptacle in the (left) back near the light? I have used it for 12V applications and also - with a converter to 115V AC - for general electric use. Max. power is 120W, I believe. I am not sure that the fuse for the lights in the back would carry more power than that, anyway.

I installed the trailer hitch on my 09RX350 (AWD - comes with the connections). It's an easy job. But: the hitch is heavy and it helps to have someone (or a well-placed and well-adjusted jack) hold one end up while you screw in the first bolt(s) on the other end. The bolt holes are very well aligned. Re: the electrical connection... Instructions say to unbolt all the 'hatch doors'/remove the drawers so that you can get to the plug inside the car. In fact, the only 'drawer' you need to get under is the one on the rear left, and you may even be able to do this by removing the back trim (which includes the 'buttons' to open the 'hatch doors') and feeling under the drawer on the left. Depending on your capacity to 'twist' the drawer and reaching under... the plug is quite evident, and the wires/plug that come from the hitch can easily be inserted from the outside by removing the existing grommet in the pass-through hole. I did it a little shorter than the 'long way' described in the instructions, and it was only because my trim was defective that I later saw the access (when Lexus changed the trim in front of me). Good luck!

Yeah that makes sense - Probably just go to fleet farm then... I had the case on my RX after 4 years of a new Lexus/Toyota battery: the cost of the battery is prorated (remaining to 7 years) but the cost of the Lexus battery and labor charge nonetheless remaineds above what I would pay to get a new battery elsewhere (which I did)..

Can't really help much except to note that the 2010 no longer has rear strut suspension, and also that tire circumference equivalency can be found through the site: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Generally speaking, it is assumed that a higher aspect ratio (e.g. going from 55 to 60) provides more comfort but less feel of control. The obverse is that going from 55 aspect ratio to 50 provides more direct feel, but less 'comfortable' ride. -- I have a 09Rx350 with 18" rims and Michelin Energy 55 tires, and I leave them at 33 lbs/sq.in. pressure. By modifying the tire pressures, you can modify the feel of the suspension and 'mushiness'. Tirerack.com has pretty good reviews of tires by users, and they usually comment on all aspects. I believe the RX330/350 already have sway bars both front and rear. To alter the characterisitics, a thicker sway bar rear would make the car more prone to skid from the rear, and inversely. It would also make the car less comfortable. Good luck!