Rogerm

I called 4 dealerships.. granted it is Sunday. Not much help . I do know that the seats need to be reset. I was told you did NOT need to do resets for mileage. One online help, said it would reset by itself over a week or so. They all wanted me to bring it in. One Service guy said drive it for 30 min after jump starting it and it will be ok. ??? Sounds like I'll try that.

Are any resets needed after installing a new battery?

Do you have a picture that shows the two parts and the seal between them?

I have had good luck using 3M 1 inch wide Scotch Tape. Two layers over the top of the two halves of the headlight. It last about 2 years .... but it works and is easy to do. I had tried silicone caulk... did not work.

Velcro same color Glue with Elmers and tape with painter tape until dry. Cheap Easy Works Mine is still fine after a year.

3M makes a really good kit Auto Zone or Trac Auto... or online

yes servos

I repaired mine with same color Velcro. (tan in my case) Looks and works great. still going after a year. However, On the headliner, I used about a 3 inch long strip of 1/2 in wide Velcro. I attached it with Elmers wood glue. I taped it with 3M paint tape. Until dry. On the visor, I cut 2 1/2 x 1/2 in pieces. applied about 1/2 inch apart. Used same gluing procedure. Very cheap, Very Easy, Very Effective. Very Attractive.

Your sunroof drain tubes need to be cleaned... I did mine... I don't know where I found out where they were and how to do it. used a coated flexible steel cable. lots of water Did it from the top all four corners. and from under the car up. Used small wire as well.... just keep going deeper each time and adding water. mine had algea build up I think. Fixed the problem...

the actuators ( there are about 3 or 4) divert air from various locations to other locations. There contacts can get dirty. They are usually replaced. but can have the contacts cleaned. Fairly common problem in older Lexus RX300

It's on the passenger side. From underneath Look at the firewall where it transitions to the floor. Look between the wishbones... about as far back as the center of the tire. Its not far from the catylictic converter and the drive shaft U Joint. It's a 1/2 to 1/4 inch black tube...comes out about an inch then 90degree downturn for another inch. I tried to upload a picture to the media area, but could not.... They say: We are currently making improvements to the Media Library.

Go to Youtube.com Then

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"' But You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!! Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap ... LOCATION It is on the drivers side. The location of the 1/2 to 1/4 black drain tube is on the firewall, near the floor. it runs out about 1 in,,, 90degree turn down and another inch. If you look up to thru the wishbone....about as far back as the center of the tire. You'll see it... near the drive shaft U Joint and nor far from the catylitic converter. Have a picture, but could not get this site to take my upload.

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"' But You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!! Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap ... ... From youtube direct type in Another site suggests hooking a garden hose up to it an giving is several bursts.

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"' But You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!! Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap ...

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"' But You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!! Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap ...

For some reason, this forum IDENTIFIES a " A/C Condensate Drain Clog"' But You can search 20 entries and NOT find the Solution for FIXing it !!! Hear it is on YouTube.. Plain, Simple, Clear and Cheap ...

Two Points of Velcro: o Get the auto velcro that withstands the heat. o Cut off some of the "hair" on the velcro...so it does not hold quite so tight... so tight that it pulls the velcro adhesive off the headliner; but still tight enough to hold the visor up. I posted the velcro solution before the crip solutio was posted... the crip at 2 5/8ths inches in is probably better.

This has been discussed before... It is possible to cut the fabric and crimp down on a preasure sleve to tighten it. The easiest way is if the problem is just keeping it in the up possition is to use a very small velcro strip.

All: Did the following and it works. http://my.is/forums/f90/cleaning-maf-sensor-diy-394837/ Lots of good pictures... So easy Unplug the MAF remove the MAF... two screws... spray contact cleaner ( degresser type) Replace... also checked the air filter and tubes for leaks. and you can spot the crud. The two wires on mine were soooo crudy that you could not even see them with the flashlight. Saves ... $ 500 or more from shop to replace a MAS. Also used the OBD tool that I bought from Enova.. to reset the light and codes. This $ 200 device has saved me more grief and dollars...and easy to use. ( Gives you the generic and Lexus/Toyota codes, their explanation, and all Freeze Frame data. They should be built into all autos...but the dealer shops would loose alot of service money. But I'm sure this did the trick since , it starts better, runs better cold and runs with much more pep and accurate shifting. Wow.

---------- PlasticX is great stuff. I would use it even if you don't think you need it. Won't solve water problem though.

THis may not be the perfect place to post this, but my searches did not bring back the results I was looking for. My two high beam lights are foggy and I have heard that the stuff used to clean the plasitic windows of convertable tops works, but my biggest challenge is getting in there to clean them. Anyone know the easiest way to get these light out - pictures would be great Thanks for your help Plastic-X -- is great for cleaning the outside of the lenses. When they get a little old and oxidized. It is not for the water problem. It does take some rubbing. Not exactly sure of the name... they also make a other X products.

Any way you could measure that and let us know the distance from where the pivot arm goes into the visor to the "squeeze" point? Just trying not to have to cut into it. Thanks. --------------------------------- Just eyeballing it.... It Looks like the distance to the middle of that part that needs to be crimped .... is about 6 times the diameter of the prvot arm ROD. Has anyone tried ... probeing with a long needle or pin ... to find the two ends of this part?

-------------------------------------- With the cost of Auto Repair( Especially LEXUS ) these days, ... $ 1000 is not out of the average. I decided not to scrimp on a SCANNER !!! [[Telling a mechanic a scan code and that you have and know how to use a scanner; is a way to have him know you appreciate his skills and he will likely do only what you need.]] Based on what a really good Transmission Service Uses ( They race.) and online research... I chose: Equues INNOVA Didital Can OBD 2 & 1 Scan Tool Model 3140 http://www.equus.com/product_info.php?prod...egory_id=1_10_7 You can get it for $ 250 I think. Works on alot of cars. Works while on the road. Really versatile. Good manual.. Since it has alot of features ... it does takes a learning curve.