hondaspeed85

Up for sale is my 1995 LS400. Clean title, Black exterior in good condition, power everything, Ice cold A/C, Black leather interior in EXCELLENT condition. Timing belt replacement done recently. New serpentine belt, New Spark plugs, wires, distributor caps and rotors. Oil, transmission fluid, rear differential fluid, and fuel system cleaning all have been done recently (I get everything free at my shop:p). Never been lowered or messed with. Car is clean inside and out, and runs beautifully. Selling this so I can buy a 4Runner to start offroading :D Also, I may not have a lot of history on this site, but I am on clublexus and vipstylecars under the name ThebeeGuy. Color: Black Interior: Black leather Mileage: 155k VIN: JT8UF22E1S0022109 Asking $5500. O.B.O. (909) 331-7857

Nevermind I'm an idiot. It goes in the plug that is directly under the intake manifold where the EGR bolts to the manifold. :P I didnt even notice it when I deleted the EGR

So I deleted my EGR (No i didnt buy the lextreme kit). But I followed directions I found on a different site. My question is, which plug do I put the resistor in? There are 2 plugs that go to the EGR, one toward the front of the engine (right next to the Diagnostics port), and 1 toward the back attached to the VSV. Also, the resistor is supposed to be a 10k Ohm 1/2 watt resistor correct? I put a resistor in the plug that was attached to the VSV, and the check engine light for the EGR came on a day later. I then put resistors in both plugs and the same thing, a day later the EGR code comes back up. Am I using the wrong resistor or something?

Ive been searching through old threads and couldnt find a problem like I'm having I have a 92 LS400, and on the freeway , starting at about 70mph I can feel a weird rumbling/vibration in my car. The funny thing is, It will rumble for 3 seconds, and then go totally smooth for 2 seconds, then rumble again for 3 seconds, and then again go smooth for 2 seconds. It does this VERY consistantly, and will keep doing it at those speeds. Its most prominent between 75-80. Anything faster and you can feel it, but not as bad as when your at that speed. Anything under 65 and the car is silky smooth. Also, anything faster than 80, it will rumble for rumble for 1 1/2 seconds, then go away for 1 second (the faster you go the shorter the rumbles). I cant really feel it when I'm coasting in Neutral, but as soon as I pop it back into drive it will do it again. When Im at those speeds and put it in neutral, I watched the RPM needle and when its at idle, it idles smooth, no miss or RPM scavenging, and when Im in neutral, coasting at those speeds, if I rev it up to 2500-3000 (the rpm range it usually vibrates in) it still feels smooth, so it only rumbles in gear and above 70 Ive searched through many threads on here and no one has a problem like the one I have. Theyre rumble/vibration doesnt happen consistantly like mine. Most of the time their motormounts/transmission mount is bad. Could this be my problem too? Please advise, thankyou!

I just did the caps/rotors/plugs/wires for the first time (202K) What did you do to facilitate getting the caps/rotors out/in as regards the lower shield? I undid the bolts on the lower shields and bent them out of the way, but there has to be a better way?!? Also, with the caps I used (Beck/Arnley) the rubber buttons (2 per cap) had come off at some point in working the cap into place. I found all but 1. Worst case is that it fell down into the timing belt area. If so, hopefully it will settle to the bottom to be found some time later when I have to do the timing belt. Joe Actually I did the same thing with the shields you are talking about. I just bent them out of the way and squeezed my giant hands in there haha. The driverside was a pain because of the stupid radiator hose. So as i was bending the shield, I also had to hold the radiator hose out of the way and at the same time undo the very bottom screw of the cap (You know which one im talking about). Also, another easy way to take out the old dist. caps is to take a pair of pliers, and break off the 2 nipples on the dist. caps that have the little rubber caps on them. ONLY BREAK IT OFF THE OLD ONES, this is to make it easier to access the bottom dist. cap screw, and also to make more room to pull the old cap out. For some reason putting the new cap it was a breeze. DO NOT BREAK THE NIPPLES OFF THE NEW CAPS of course. I wouldnt worry about that rubber cap that fell, its probably settled down at the very bottom. I actually dropped a screw down there :cries: After that, I started stuffing shop towels underneath the Distributor cap just in case anything else dropped, it wouldnt go all the way down into the timing belt housing. Even though im very mechanically inclined, when it comes time to change the timing belt, I'm just going to pay a shop to do it. My time is worth more than doing that job LOL

UPDATE: So last night i changed the plugs, wires, caps, and rotors (OH MY GOD WHAT A PAIN!). The car purrs like a kitten now! Turns out, none of those things have ever been changed in this car! For 149000 I would have thought any decent person would have changed them AT LEAST once in the life of the car! I looked at every single screw/bolt/nut and it looks like none of them had been touched ever (along with the timing belt, but thats a different story <_< ). Long story short, I think that solved all my problems. I cleared the codes and went for a spirited drive, drove it hard again a few times and the check engine light didnt come on, and the car still runs silky smooth. What a relief!! *crosses fingers hoping the problem doesnt come back* Anyways, anyone with the problems I had (code 71, 25, and 26), check your plugs, wires, etc. because it's another possible solution to this problem. I was talking with my older brother and he said what I was thinking made sense. That is, since it was running with 1 dead cylinder, too much unburnt fuel was sent through the EGR, which made it throw the code 71, and because of that unburnt fuel it also threw off the o2 sensors, which made them throw code 25 and 26. P.S. If I dont update this post in a few days, that means the problem is officially solved *crosses fingers* Thanks for your help guys, hope this post helps others :D

I can help you out. Give me the VIN and your email address. I bought a 30 day subscription, and only used it once haha. Ended up buying the first car I carfax'ed

Hi, I followed the directions that are on this site to clean the Vacuum Modulator http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/emission/egrfilter.html I also went as far as to take off the actual EGR Valve. If you look at a side view of the EGR valve, youll see its only held on by 2 nuts. All you have to do is unbolt those 2 nuts, and un hook all the lines that go to it. REMEMBER THE LOCATIONS OF ALL THE HOSES YOU UNHOOK! Dont be afraid if you see coolant coming out of 2 of the hoses, the EGR Valve is cooled by engine coolant. Once you get the valve off, spray it down with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. I sprayed mine down with brake cleaner a couple of times and cleaned it out as much as I could. There was a more in depth tutorial about cleaning the EGR, It was either on this site of Clublexus.com. Either way, there should be a lot of information on this between these two forums. After all that, to clear the CEL, open up the fuse box under the hood (its toward the driverside front). Pull out the 20A fuse that belongs to the EFI, wait about 5 minutes, then plug the fuse back in and you should be good to go. www.lexls.com has a LOT of info/tutorials if you ever need them. Goodluck!

The car has about 150,000 miles on it. Im going to replace the Caps, rotors, plugs and wires tonight (even if this doesnt solve the problem, I should do it anyways.) And I'll post another update on the problem. I have been searching through tons of threads, and a lot of people have similar problems but it could be a number of things... I'm thinking of replacing the coils too, since I doubt they have been changed and the car IS 15 years old... And by driving hard, I mean flooring it, I floored it up to about 80-90ish on the freeway. And hard accellerated a few more times around the block. EDIT: I forgot to mention, at idle it will miss slightly, but when I turn on the A/C it gets worse. Also, if I put it into gear it'll get worse. So it gets worse under load...

UPDATE: Its funny that you post that because just before I read your post, I took my car for a drive and 1 or 2 minutes into the drive, the check engine light turned off. After that, the car ran perfectly fine. I drove it hard for a few bursts and the car seemed to run fine. Got back to work and as I was parking, the car felt a little rough again, again it feels like a cylinder is misfiring or something. This time no check engine light at all though. Do you think that all of these problems stem from just having to change the sparkplugs, wires, caps and rotors? I was thinking maybe 1 cylinder is misfiring, therefore sending too much unburnt fuel through the EGR causing it to set off the Code 71, which in turn set off 25 and 26 because of me cleaning it. Does that make any sense? I just bought the car recently and havent done the normal Sparkplug/caps/rotors/wires yet, so I dont know when the last time they have been replaced. Would it make sense that this would be the problem? ' Thankyou for any help you can provide.

I have a 1992 LS400 Ok, heres the situation, the other day I got a Check engine light and it was code 71 (EGR). The car was hesitating throughout the RPM range, and idled rough (as if 1 of the cylinders wasnt firing.) Cleaned out the EGR and cleared the code from the ECU. Car still ran rough, and the check engine light came back on about 10 miles later. I checked the codes and I dont have the code 71 anymore, but now I have a code 25 and 26 (didnt have it before when i had the code 71). Which I read up on and usually that means replacing the o2 sensors. Now, Would the code 25 and 26 have any corrolation with the code 71? I just want to know for sure before I spend the money on 4 new o2 sensors. Is it possible for all 4 o2 sensors to start to go out all at once, hence giving me a code 25 and 26? Also, would replacing the o2 sensors fix the code 25 and 26, or could they be related to something else? Any help is appreciated, thankyou! By the way, the codes are : 25 - Air-fuel ratio lean malfunction 26 - Air-fuel ratio rich malfunction

First of all I have a 1992 LS400. So today I was on my way to work getting on the freeway and I had to accellerate rather hard up the on ramp. Soon after that, my check engine light came on and my car started to stutter/hesitate soon after the light came on. I pulled the code and it was a code 71 (EGR). So i went through the steps on how to clean the Vacuum Modulator, and I also removed the actual EGR valve and cleaned it out the best that I could, and then reinstalled it. I also checked to see if the actual EGR worked (Attached a vacuum hose straight from the throttle body to the EGR valve and the engine started to run really rough, ive read that means the regulator is indeed working). Pulled the 20amp EFI fuse to clear the check engine light. The hesitation is STILL there. The check engine light came back on about 10 miles later for EGR again. The car feels as if its misfiring in one of the cylinders. You can hear and feel the engine running a little rough at idle, and at all RPMs, when you try to accellerate the car stutters throughout the whole RPM range. Not BAD to the point where it feels like the car is going to die, but it is noticeable and the power loss is definately noticable. If one of the cylinders was misfiring, would that set off a check engine light? Would this hesitation be related to the EGR? Or was it a coincidence that the EGR light came on at around the same time the car started hesitating? What are some of the symptoms of something going wrong with the EGR? Would the engine run rough like this because of the EGR system? I just bought the car recently and it purr'd like a kitten until today when I stepped on it hard. The condition of the sparkplugs/wires/cap/rotor are unknown as of right now, I am planning to replace them soon anyways. I was thinking this MIGHT be the problem but it is just too much of a coincidence that one of the cylinders would stop firing and at the same time the EGR check engine light comes on. Sorry, I know, the post is long, but I wanted to explain every single part of what is wrong and what I did.