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P W Smith, With those miles on the car, it could be all kinds of things that are the issue. Your best bet is to take the car to an honest independent mechanic and have him check out all of the systems. It could be bad plugs, a weak coil that breaks down when its hot, bad wiring that needs replacing, or all sorts of things that someone with experience in Camry's and ES300's can easily narrow down quickly.

shizam, I recently saw a YouTube video on just this in the last month. The Nav system will play DVD's if the car is in park, with the emergency brake on, and you do some onscreen touches in the upper and lower corners of the screen. This is the one you want: Personally, I couldn't be bothered to do it, but whatever floats your boat. Good Luck!

vinny186, Yes, you may need to swap out your entire instrument combination meter to fix the problem, but first try this: Is it possible that whebn you removed the combination meter that you may have stretched the wiring harnesses to it, and possibly pulled one of the wires loose from its end connector slightly? Try this to find out: Disconnect the battery, pull the combination meter out of its cavity such that you can get at its wiring harnesses, then push all of the WIRES into their respective connectors. Lay the meter in its cavity, reconnect the battery and check the instruments. If things work, you then have a little bit of snooping and repairs to make to that harness connector (best to let an electronics expert fix it if you're not confident yourself). If it doesn't work, it may be cheapest to get another from a wrecking yard. Then be sure to record the mileage on your old odometer, the same on the new one, the date you changed them both out, sign the record and get a good witness to do the same and keep it with your owner's manual. That way when you go to sell the car, there'll be less hassles from the new buyer. Good Luck!

vinny186, Any electrical work on any car starts by disconnecting the battery terminal to ensure that nothing gets short circuited. Hopefully you did this step. As well, I've not had to replace any instrument bulbs in any of my Lexus models over the years, but plenty in other Nissan, Subaru and Toyota models from that same time period. As for the instrument needles inoperative ....I suspect that you'll find that the electrical plug connection is at fault. Check that the plug is properly inserted. If the instruments worked before you pulled the dash parts, they should work afterwards, provided all of the connectors are properly seated in the correct positions. If after all of this they still don't work, check fthe fuses for the instrument panel. For the LED bulbs ... it depends on the type of bulbs used by Toyota. Some of those plastic plug bulb sockets simply require that the old bulb be pulled from the plastic socket, and a new one inserted. Others have the same plastic plug, but the bulb itself has two long thin wires. In this case, you unwind the wires on the old bulb from the holes in the plastic socket and the notches in the plastic that they follow. Once removed, the wires on the new bulb get inserted into the holes and twisted around the recesses of the socket to follow the same pattern of the old bulbs. You may find that the wires will have excess wire that needs to be cut off when finished. Check also that the old bulbs don't have thin, tiny rubber condoms on them, that can be pulled off and put on the new bulbs to keep the same colour of light consistent in the dash. I've found this on several cars of this generation. Good Luck!

rexbella, Factory covers are expensive on high end cars, and you don't need to go that route unless you are made of money. Here in Canada (should be the same in your neck of the woods) we have auto body suppliers who can supply two, if not three, levels of covers at varying costs and quality on popular models. Our vendor (I work in an auto restoration shop from time to time) has access to covers that are from about half the cost of the dealership's listing to just about 2/3's. With each level up, the accuracy of the moldings is better (read fits the car better and is of heavier material to retain its shape). You may find the same, if you go to an independent body shop and ask for pricing of the covers. Another option is to get the real thing through a wrecking yard, where the Lexus was rear ended or similar. As a last resort, you could try the eBay route, but be prepared for some fitment issues if the aftermarket cover is cheaply made. And be prepared for the dealership not wanting/refusing to use it. Its a half hour job to remove a bumper cover, and 20 minutes to install one. Prepping for paint and painting one should be an hour and a half, and the paint, another $50. Add in the cost of the cover and switching over fog lights and other trim sections and it totals pretty quickly, another reason to find an reasonably quailty body shop you can trust. The other issue is the car is 6 years old and bumper covers take the brunt of the abuse from stones and other drivers in parking lots. No need to go overboard on the cost of the repair, only to have some idiot scar it up a week after you get it fixed. Good Luck!

Flyby, I know what you're going through because I've been there myself. I have a 1990 300ZX with super low miles, which is now 25 years old. Its just one of my toys. The owner's manual, and the dealerships say 5 years or 100 kms (60 000 miles) for timing belt replacement. They may as well say do all of the belts and the hoses at the same time. As for the water pump, with very little useage on the car, every second timing belt change should be enough. Anyhow, I finally bit the bullet and changed all of it out at 70 000 kms about 5 years ago. So, I'm good for say another 15 years. Here's what I did to really know if I should do the job or let it sit for a few more years: remove part of the timing belt cover to be able to see the belt itself. By turning the motor over with short touches of the starter, but not letting it actually start, you'll be able to see the entire length of the belt and the shape it is in. Check its under side as well. If the belt has no cracks, and shows no signs of deterioration, let it go for another two years, and then look at it again. But once it hits 20 years, I'd change it out. Age and heat will do it in by that time. Checking your accessory belts as to their condition will give you a good feel for what shape the timing belt is in as well. If you're not confortable doing that yourself, have an independent mechanic (much cheaper than dealership, and the car is off its warranty now) pull part of the cover and let you know. As for the water pump, they fail when the seals wear out and start to slowly leak fluid. Even my Subaru dealership says every second timing belt change is the time to do the water pump. Good Luck!

mybogo350, I found this on another site: "I spoke with a service tech at the dealership and he told me to do the following each time the battery in disconnected: To re-initialize the windows, and the sun roof. Power windws: Push button down until window is 100% open and hold for 3 count, then do the same on the "up" position. Sunroof: In the closed position, hold the switch in the open position and will open and close a full cycle then stop, you have then re-initialized the sun roof."

xvipx, Unfortunately you get what you get with the Toyota/Lexus upgrades. By that I mean, if you've used a Garmin GPS at all, you'll be disappointed with the Lexus equivalent, from an appearance standpoint. My wife's 2011 ES350 Nav system doesn't have the more modern look of my year old Garmin GPS unit. The important thing to remember though, is that with any newer version you'll be getting the much needed upgrades to all sorts of data.

baloo belle, Take the car to a car audio installer. They can clean the DVD/Nav player for you in much the same manner as the cleaner disc that you used. If that doesn't do the job, they can pull the Nav unit, open the case and clean the laser head manually. From what you describe, that's all that should be needed. Good Luck!

dewana421, First off, put the rubber plug back. It keeps water from being kicked up by the tires into the bottom of that recess, but as you've discovered, it can be pulled out to drain any water that finds its way in from above. Two, take the car back to the dealership and have them fix the leak, something they should have done before you picked the car up. It is possible that they weren't aware of the problem before you took delivery, so give them the benefit of the doubt. The water can only get in that recess in one of 4 ways: The sunroof rear drain tube on that side is plugged and water is overflowing the drain channel, or the plastic drain tube has come disconnected from the drain channel, or the plastic drain tube has split. The rear windshield is leaking. The rear tail lights on that side have a gasket that leaks. The trunk seal is leaking. All that is required is to do a little detective work from the outside of the car with a garden hose, starting from the lowest parts of the rear of the car and working upwards. Hopefully your dealership will do a good fix and make you happy. Good Luck!

2003es300, I assumed that you tested the dripping liquid to see if it was gasoline. If it was fuel, I've described how to proceed. If it isn't fuel, it can only be brake fluid leaking from a rear brake line, or water caught up in the rear sub assembly. There are no other fluids in the rear of the car. When next you see the same leak, taste it, feel it, smell it, and you'll discover whether you need to be concerned at all. Note: if its brake fluid .... get it fixed now! Good Luck!

crmjr, Been a while since our ES330 but check to see if there is a specific fuse for the trunk. Next step would be to pull the inner trunk back panel and disconnect the wiring harness to the latch assembly and see if applying 12 volts to the latch connector opens the latch. If it doesn't, you have the culprit. If it does open, you'll have to trace back the wiring from the latch to the two trunk switches up front, and then check out the two switches themselves. Good Luck!

Yuan, From what you've described, you aren't a wrencher who has done much if any mechanics on cars. That means you need to find a good independent mechanic who can lower the gas tank and discover the source of the leak, the tank itself (reseal or replace it) or the various fuel lines attached to it on top. It is not a safe job for a first timer, due to safety concerns over fuel spills and fire/explosion. There will be no way to see what is required until the car is on a hoist and the fuel tank is lowered from the car. A good used fuel tank may be possible, if its the problem. Good Luck!

minimehontec, Obviously check the tranny fluid level and condition. Then once again pull each of the wiring harnesses from the tranny and make sure there are no broken or corroded connections or wires. After that, follow the wiring harnesses back to the ECM for the same issues as described. If none of those areas are at issue, its time for a proper diagnosis by a good mechanic. Note: all of these codes are common issues for the Rav4 of the same generation as your ES. The most likely culprit in the Rav4's case is the ECM, usually meaning it needs to be replaced. You need someone with the tools and expertise to get to the bottom of your problem. Good Luck!

tusken76, The sunroof rain channels are basically eaves troughs (gutters for USA readers) that carry the excess water that gets past the sunroof seals. One runs down each side of the sunroof, and is part of the track that the sunroof moves in. At each end of the channel is a drain tube that is plastic/vinyl. Take a stiff wire (coat hanger/snake for pulling electical wiring through walls in a house) and slide it down the channel towards the rear of the car. Carefully try to poke out the dirt plug that has clogged the channel where the water would enter the drain tube. Be careful not to push the vinyl tubing off the drain tube. You might even try using compressed air from a compressor. Step the air hose diameter down to 1/4 inch plastic (not vinyl) tubing that is stiff, such as used for plumbing water to refridgerators that have ice makers and cold water spigots. Slide it down the channel to the drain tube and blow the dirt plug out. I'd suggest leaving the sunroof open for a few days inside a garage, to allow any standing water in the rain channels to evaporate before blowing them out. Blowing water out of the channel if its full may well stain your headliner. As I stated in my previous post you'll need to pull the headliner down to see the rear drains. Good Luck!

id1, Its a lot of years and two ES models ago that I had our 97 ES. I can't even recall what the remote looked like, but I have been through this same issue before. Do an eBay search for the two different Lexus models' remotes, and compare them. Many of the vendors will have ads for both, the models and years they work with, and they will send you a copy of the programing steps to follow. Insist on that last point, if you don't want to spend bucks at the dealership. Do the same thing for the cartridge pack for the CD changer. Even check YouTube for pics or movies from back in 97. Good Luck!

tusken76, Paul has hit on the most likely cause ... sunroof rain channel is clogged or the drain tube has split or come off the end of the channel. There will be four drain tubes, one down each A Pillar at the windshield (front drains), and one down each C Pillar, just back of the rear doors. Most cars have the rear drains empty behind the rear wheels, in between the rear bumper cover and the steel quarter panel. I suggest that you check the trunk to ensure that water isn't pooling in the spare tire area, or the right rear bottom of the quarter panel. Pull up the rear sidefloor panel and check. From your description, it sounds like your drains are clogged with dirt, and need cleaning. Usually a small diameter plastic tubing and compressed air can blow it out. Open the sunroof, slide the tubing down into the rain channel and rearwards to the end of the channel. Or do the same with a stiff wire (coat hanger). If the drain tube has split or come off, you may be able to get at it by removing the overhead assist straps, the B and C illar moldings, and the the inner door weather stripping down across the top and sides of the rear door. All of that will allow you to pull the headliner partially down and get a flashlight up in to look at the channel and drain tube. Good Luck!

Inspecta1, A little search on Google says that cylinder #3 is misfiring. Either the spark plug is bad, the wiring connector to the ignition coil pack on top of the spark plug is bad (broken wire/corroded connection), the coil pack itself is bad, or the engine computer is bad. To track down which is the problem, first check the wiring connector to the coil pack and clean or fix/replace it. Then remove and swap the coil pack for one of the other good ones on the car and read the code. If #3 is good now, replace the original coil pack. If that's not it, time for all new spark plugs. The ECM (engine computer) would be last on the list and a used one may be your best bet and much cheaper than new. Here's the problem ... cylinder #3 is the middle one , dead center on the back bank of cylinders, under the intake manifold, next to the firewall of the car. It is very difficult to get to, and most mechanics will want to remove the intake manifold to get at it ... read "time consuming and dollar signs". Sorry that I don't have better news. Good Luck!

Rich A, Do a Google search for "2003 ES300 navigation disc update install", if no one jumps in with the procedure here. Some one out there on the web will have a post that you can follow. Good Luck!

When a fuse blows it indicates that there is too much current draw on the circuit, or that there is a direct short in the circuit. If the fuse just served one electrical item, such as the clock, all by itself, the tracing of the problem would be very simple, and most people could do it. Add several other items into the system and it becomes a nightmare to even suggest where to start looking for the culprit. It is not a fix for an amateur. You need to find an auto electric shop (they rebuild starters, power seat and heater motors, etc.), a good independent mechanic, or the dealership to have the problem fixed. They are equipped with the wiring diagrams for the car, the test equipment, and the knowledge and expertise needed to trace through the wiring and find the problem. With so many things listed that have shut down on your car that are protected by that fuse, no one online can possibly even begin to suggest a solution.

belex, As with anything mechanical, when it ceases to do its job correctly, and that could be at 100 000 miles, 200 000 miles or 300 000 miles. It depends on many factors and will be different for every car and how its driven and its age. The rule of thumb is to push down hard on a corner of the car and let it go. The corner should go down, rebound up, and go part way back down and stop. If it should continue to rebound, the shock needs replacing. Don't replace them (in pairs) before they need to be, but when they go bad, replace them immediately. A wheel continually bouncing, after a dip in the road, doesn't contact the pavement long enough to give you any braking or diectional control, and is very dangerous.

bfelton, I may be off base here but somewhere in the past (many years ago) I remember being told that adding static strips that are tied to the frame of the car and touch the ground (to ground out static electricity buildup) helped to prevent motion sickness. You see them from time to time hanging down from the rear frame of a car, an inch or so wide black plastic (?) strip with a red stripe.

nikik, I've been around long enough to know that there are a great many less than honest mechanics and dealerships out there. Now, that may not be the case in this instance, but my advice would be to get another opinion before you jump in and spend any money for a fix. There is a good possibility, that you need just a new set of spark plugs, or possibly a coil pack, etc. As for any of the other issues you've been quoted, they well may be problems of a much lesser nature that really don't need attention right now or never. Many places can justify almost anything to pad the bill and make themselves more money. Get another trustworthy mechanic to check the car out. If he comes back with the same diagnosis, then you have a decision to make. But I'm betting that the fixes needed are no where as extensive as you've been quoted. BTW: You don't need to take the car to a Lexus dealership where it will cost big time for any service work. Any independent mechanic can do this same service for a labour rate much less than Lexus will charge. And your car is really a gussied up Camry, many of the same parts are on both cars, and any mechanic who can work on one of them can do the work on your ride. Good Luck! I hope it all works out for you.

Brenda, I'm assuming that you mean that the latch will not lock onto the locking rod at the base of the trunk when you close it. Did the latch lock when you forced the screwdriver into the latch? Could you then pull the screwdriver back down through the latch or did it stay locked until someone pushed the trunk switch? If it did, then your problem is the locking rod at the base of the trunk is not aligned properly with the latch assembly in the trunk lid. You need to pull the plastic trim piece across the back of the truck opening (where the locking rod peeks through) straight up and remove it. It'll pop right off from one side to the other. That locking rod will then either need to be moved right or left, forwards or backwards,(just loosen the two bolts holding it) or be shimmed up (place a couple of washers under it before the bolts are retightened. Obviously remove the bolts to get the washers placed. Once the lock rod (can't think what else to call it) is properly aligned so the slot in the trunk lid latch closes over it properly, the rod should lock the latch automatically. If you did the screwdriver in the latch trick and closed the latch, and then the trunk button opened it correctly, you don't have an electrical problem. If you can manually lock that latch and then open it with the button, then you have either an alignment problem of the two parts (lock bar and latch), or a mechanical problem with the latch, meaning it'll need to be replaced. Get one from a wrecking yard as Lexus will want over a $100 for sure. Hope all of this makes sense.Good Luck.

Aqil, You don't give us the mileage on the car, but I'd bet its way past the maintenance schedule for a transmission flush, as recommended in the owner's manual. Start there. A complete tranny flush and filter change may be all that's required. The next step, if that doesn't solve the issue, is to get to a dealeship and have the tranny computer reflashed with its software program. It may have become corrupted. If you still don't get the results you need, get to a good mechanic who works on Toyota Camry's, as your ES is just a fancy Camry. He'll do the diagnosis and repairs cheaper than the Lexus dealer. The problem may simply be a corroded wiring connection to the tranny, or an internal solenoid may need replacing which requires the tranny pan to come off. The answer is, try my first two suggestions, and if that doesn't fix the problem, you'll need to see a competent mechanic, and not necessarily a transmission shop. But that too may have to be your final stop. Good Luck!