smooth1

I get mine from http://www.plasmagarage.com/XENON-bulbs.html 129 bucks for the pair. And they are good quality also.

Manolo1 - I'm curious how this has impacted your MPG City/Hwy? Please share. BaddBoi How would I know if I drive all the time with the ECT on? My guess is that it is totally inmaterial as all you get is faster response and that should amount to -at most- 2%-3% worse mileage... Manolo1 - I believe what Baddboi was trying to get at was what MPG you get with the Power ECT mode so that he could compare to his mileage. But Manolo lives in Florida, and Badboi lives in Denver. Huge elevation difference. Not to mention it's more about driving habits not the setting of the car. If you had it in power mode all the time, but drove it like a granny, you would probably show better gas mileage than someone who drove it regular mode very aggresively all the time. But to help with the comparison, I live in Florida also, I "mostly" drive in the regular mode, but I admit that I am not a "Passive" driver. I seem to be getting about 21-22 mpg when I drive regularly bith city and highway combined. When I drive in the power mode for a couple of tanks fulls, I can get as low as 18 mpg's. Well, I should restate that as I have gotten as low as 18 mpg's. I'm sure I could get worse if I tried to.

You remember what gas mileage you got on a 300 mile trip 16 years ago? Wow! I'm not saying that your motor is or isn't in good condition. I actually think it's great that your still motoring along. 300K miles plus is an attribute of Toyota's engineering, and your attention and care over many years and miles. But that doesn't change the attributes of an after market air filter and new spark plugs. Come on. A spark plug creates a flame kernal that ignites the air fuel mixture in the cylinder. The only real advancements in spark plugs that I have seen is the ability to disapate heat better, which in turn prevents preignition. Hence the Iridium plugs. The tip gets so hot that it begins to burn fuel as it's entering the cylinder. That's why it has that huge insulator all around it. The idea a better spark creating more power is just not real science. Remember why your not supposed to use gasoline to start a Bar-B-Que grill with? Do you think that fire would start any slower with a match than a blow torch? It wouldn't make any difference. Now it is different if you are heavily modded. In that case, especially force induction, you can experience spark blow out with all the air fuel being rushed in and out of the cylinder, or if your advancing or retarding the ignition severely, but even then it's not about the spark plug, it's about the coils and amping up the charge to create a stronger arch. So, all I can tell you is that maybe it was a different time of year, cooler weather can help produce more hp, maybe you carried less wieght in the car on this trip then you did before, maybe gasoline technology is better than it was 16 years ago, maybe the wind was behind you more on this trip, or you went down hill alot more this time. Still, I just don't beleive dropping in a K&N air filter, and switching to E3 spark plugs could really produce a 25% gain in fuel mileage. That's huge. Remember Split Fire spark plugs?

Iv'e noticed that I can feel the engine downshift and do some slight engine braking when I take my foot off the gas in the power mode also. But when I am in normal mode the car "coasts" more. I do notice the take off is much more "Now" in the power mode. My wife thought the power ect mode and the VDIM stuff was all just a gimmick. So with it in normal mode and the VDIM on, from a dead stop I floored it, while the rear tires did break loose, the VDIM quickly engaged and kept it civil, then I pushed the VDIM for 5 seconds to turn it completely off, and then put it in the power mode, again from a dead stop, I floored it and lit the rear tires up and pulled a 30 foot drift until she screamed and begged me to never do that with her in the car again. LOL!!! She'e a believer now! Not bad for a little luxury people mover.

You are claiming a 25% increase in fuel mileage from different spark plugs and an air filter. That's ridiculous. "Ridiculous..." Well, maybe not... Suppose the oil wicking off that K&N into the HIGH SPEED intake airstream quickly contaminated the MAF/IAT module sensors and now the engine is running EXTREMELY lean, maybe even only in "cruising" mode.... Did the 1990 LS have knock sensors...?? But then at 300,000 the compression ratio might be so compromised that even severely leaned it doesn'y knock. Yeah, they had a knock sensor. But your probably not that far off with the running lean theory, although I would also contribute the extra air flow and old fuel injectors along with poor valve seals to help contribute to that. But I still don't believe there was a 25% increase in fuel mileage. Even 10% is considered ALOT! And your gonna need alot more help than a CAI and spark plugs just to see stock horsepower again, let alone 10 ponies over stock.

Iv'e met some Maguire's Maniacs and some Mother's brothers also. I say to each thier own. I Zaino'd my IS 350 when I first bought it and just drove it like that. I just spent the last week breaking that all down and used a #2 polish, then put on a coat of paint sealant by Griot's, and then I'm going over that with PS21 wax. Then I'll see how much I like that for awhile. I have to say, this way was alot more work. Zaino was super easy compared to doing it this way, but I do this for the therapy time anyway, so I will get back to you if I actually see and feel a real difference and if it lasts and all.

pegs

A set of these, a new Turbonator and a 2+1 MAF resistor chip and I'll be over 425 bhp no problem!! And keep it under a hundred bucks!! What a deal!

Those parts are for the manual 250.... now, I agree it makes little sense to offer a stronger clutch for a car that has little power to begin with, but TRD-derived stuff rarely has a real useful purpose. I know it's for the 250, but they list is a fit for the 350 as well. While I know that both the 250 and 350 share alot of things, I don't imagine they can share too many engine and drive train parts. I just thought it was funny they listed it like that.

What I would like to know is why they have a new F-sport clutch and a new short shift adaptor that is suitable for the 06-08 IS 350. Am I missing something?

I heard 150K+ for this one. Anyone heard what the real price is yet? And it will definately be a convertable?

Smooth, The cars average about 10"-12" long, There is quite a variety of models, Boss Mustangs, Camaros, Vettes etc... I'll post more pix soon. B) 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 429 B) OOooohh, now your talkin!!

Wow, cool collection DC. Can you take a pictue of one with something for size reference? Like a D battery or a cel phone? Are those like hot wheel size or bigger? The detail one those are really nice. Is the whole collection vintage cars like that?

You've thrown a cel. Try going to AutoZone and have them do an ODBII scan. They will tell you the code for the problem. You probably have an 02 sensor issue. It's an easy fix, You just need to find out which one.

GReat race, but what the heck kind of turn was that at the end? I would have done a full hand brake slide to get the car to turn 180 degrees, and then floor it again!!! That was a pretty large radius for a turn around. Also, I think the plane should have had to stay horizontal to the ground. Going up was a full throttle issue, but it used gravity to slow down for the u turn, and gravity to help for the return acceleration. But then I think the plane would have way to much of an advantage. The video almost made it seem like it had a chance! LOL!!!

Cuban

I've been wondering about the accuracy, but I haven't checked it yet. I usually set the trip odometer to 00000 then fill up the tank. The next time I fill up, I just look at how much fuel went in, and what the odometer says, and do the math. How are you doing the "manual" calculations?

Oh, I'm sure the list can go on and on. The aftermarket segment is huge!!! There are alot of good, proven aftermarket performance parts available. I think alot of the "gizmo gadget" manufacturers just play off that though. I admit that I have seen ads they run, that if I didn't know mechanics, it would be convincing. Kind of like the the herbal vitamins, and over the counter pill cures they are allways coming out with. Have you seen the new foot pad things? I guess it draws out all the toxins in your body and makes you feel better. Does that stuff really work? I have no idea. And I don't know anyone that does know for sure. Well, I do know this one person who says yes, these works great and how awsome he feels afterwards and all that, but then again, he called me to tell me how much better his car ran after putting in a new Optima battery.

Yeah, I've noticed some of the pictorials of the products aren't the greatest. Have you been to Carson L-Tuned website? They have one of the biggest selections I have seen around. I put the link here just in case you haven't. http://www.l-tunedparts.com/index.php

Yes, Knightshade and Gaugster are both correct. It's funny how different they are from each other, yet have the same destination if you will. Yeaitscola, what car were you looking to FI? The question of reliability doesn't really rely on the turbo or supercharger. Many manufacturers use both with 150-200K mile lifespans. BMW has been using superchargers for years, and there have been alot of Turbo equipped cars rolling off the factory lines for years. The issue of reliablity is in the steps you take to prepare the motor for boost conditions, and how much boost you want to run. For example, the Toyota 2JZ motor. That motor has been proven to be able to double the horsepower very reliably on stock internals. But go much beyond that and your asking for trouble. But again, open the motor up, replace the pistons with a lower compression forged piston, and stronger connecting rods, AARP bolts and wrist pins, valve work, larger fuel injectors and and a return fuel system, replace the ECU with a tunable stand alone, and the motor can easily go to 750 hp reliably. Notice I said the MOTOR will be reliable. Because you have now exceeded the limits of the drivetrain, and will now have to also replace the tranny, drivesshaft, and rearend. Also your gonna need some wider tires to keep that amount of HP from just shreading the tires. But on the other hand, if you just want to run 2 or 3 PSI, then I think you might be pretty safe on most motors. Although, considering the cost of putting a turbo or supercharger on a car, the additional 20 hp or so you would get from it would seem a bit on the ridiculous side. Especially when you consider all the other ways to add hp and torque that would be just as effective and cost no where near that amount. To put a turbo on a car that hasn't come with one on it, if you paid someone else to do it right would cost in the neiborhood of $15-18k. If you did all the work yourself, you could get that number down to and 10-12K. If you own an IS 250, it would be cheaper, and more efficient to just trade it in on an IS 350. That's a 100 hp boost right there. And if you own a IS 350 and need more, again, for the same money, you could just go and get the ISF, which again is a 100 hp boost up again. And if you wanted alot more then that, then get the new GTR. ;) these new high compression engines, and direct injection systems are built in the opposite direction of turbos and supercharger motors. Basically, in an NA motor, to get the most hp out of it, you want to lengthen the stroke, increase the compression, and raise the rev limit. On a turbo or supercharger, you want to lower the compression, increase the exhaust's ability to move the air out, and balance the revs with the turbo size.

I think you posted this in the wrong forum. IF you have an LS this is the IS 300 forum. Maybe the electronics forum would help to. I'm not familiar with the LS CD players. I can tell you the IS 300 CD players had alot of issues also, but they didn't pertain to burned CD's only. Can a mod move this to the correct forum?

no on the warrentee, it's a 4 years, OR 50K miles, which ever comes first. And your just outside the 4 years. You can go to Autozone and have them do a free diagnostic ODBII scan. They will tell you what the codes are. Dealer usually charges between 75 and 100 bucks for the diagnostic, but some wave that if you have them do the work. Are you sure all the brake lights are working? Have you had someone else get in and press the brake pedal and inspect all the brake lights to make sure they are working right? Do you have the window third light, or the spoiler third light? Maybe the wiring is frayed and shorting in the trunk lid? As for the VSC lights coming on, that could be a cel from an 02 sensor. If you get it scanned, and get the code, post what the code is here and I can tell you what the problem is. Atleast then you'll have an idea of cost, and may be able to just get the issue fixed.

Are you trying to start World War 3? Between this and the oil debates, this can get pretty touchy. :(

Huba-huba

Euro