landar

That 50 degrees is in there to allow for extra clearance between pistons and valves in case one (or both) the cams should 'snap-roll'(due to spring tension) a bit when you remove or reposition the belt. You probably could get by without rotating to 50 ATDC like Billy said. Now, when aligning the new belt, you can go two routes. You can use the markings on the belt to align the crank to the cams or you can forget the belt marking and just make sure that when the crank is at 0 TDC, the cams align to the plates. But in any case, you are right to be concerned. Something is wrong. Do not even attempt to start that engine until both cams line up perfectly with the plates and the crank is @ 0 TDC and this after you have rotated the crank multiple times. Of course you know the cams only align every other crank revolution. But they should be in perfect sync. Review this photo set of my 98 LS400 timing belt install and see if it provides any help ->

To what "alternator fuse" are you referring? The 120A fusible link? Yes the 120A orielly's said battery and altenator reading good! light is off now still please give some answers really could use some. If the 120 amp fuse is getting blown, it is most likely a chafed (or nicked insulation) on the main wire from the alternator which is touching chassis ground on occasion. Or whoever installed an alternator did not get the main feed correctly centered and it may intermittently short to ground and take out the fuse.

To what "alternator fuse" are you referring? The 120A fusible link?

I believe the brake fluid flush is fairly straight-forward. You just NEVER want to let the master cylinder get so low that it sucks air. That would literally really suck! Then the ABS modulator might need special purging. So, just a precautionary note. You probably already know this but just in case...

You have another LS that gets 40 MPG highway!? Sweet. Couple of considerations. If the A/C is on, that will chew up a couple of MPG right there. Another prime suspect, as CuriousB pointed out earlier, is the thermostat. I know it was recently replaced, but IMO, it still is a prime suspect. A cool(er) running engine is a rich running engine. I had a 98 LS400 and changed the thermostat, not because it was bad, just because I was doing some routine maintenance. To my surprise, the MPG jumped up about 2 in combined city/highway. Go figure.

Never, ever, kid a scientist. <_<

I think that is how a valet key is supposed to work. You hand it to the valet parking attendant so that he/she can drive your car but cannot get into your glovebox or trunk. Should unlock the drivers door I think.

This site has a detailing forum that would probably have many suggestions. Take a look -> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=9

Jim...better check your alignment. :P To the OP. I was wondering if your LS is reporting the correct mileage since you are using the Iphone app. Is a mile really a mile? You don't have "20's" on this thing, do you?

Yeah, D.A.Y. We know you are the automotive "expert". And BTW, this IS the world of back-yard mechanics. Lots of DIY'ers here just learning and sharing ideas. That's all. No need to be condescending.

Nice. Two simultaneous threads dealing with the exact same issue. Maybe a third is the charm? <_< Any competent mechanic should be able to determine the problem quickly. Your serp belt might be missing as curiousB mentioned or maybe slipping due to the leaks.

An inexpensive IR gun with LASER site might come in handy. You can look for proper or abnormal heating of components such as the brakes, engine, etc. You can even tell if one cylinder might not be firing correctly by targeting the exhaust manifold at various points. Or check the cats to see if they are getting too hot. Lots of good uses.

Nice writeup. Good idea to use a .pdf. How did the old plugs look? Were any noticeably worn more than the others?

Yes, exactly. The old Fords and Chevy's used to have the solenoid mounted on the firewall, not built into the starter. If I had to visit my starter, I would seriously consider welding the solenoid contacts together and mounting a remote relay on the firewall like in the old days. The only issue I could see is that be that the motor might be torquing before the gear were thrown into the flywheel teeth. Might cause issues like grinding and premature wearing of the gears. Don't know how critical that timing is. But would like to try it.

And...how about taking some pics and making a "toot" for posterity?

SPF 40 should do. Just slather it on the windscreen. :whistles: :P jk

Barbara, unfortunately it does sound like the starter contacts are bad. Which means removing the intake manifold and replacing the contacts or the entire starter motor. Personally, I would only replace the contacts like Billy has done. If your battery or a connection were bad, you would be getting a rapid series of "clicks" from the starter relay (not the starter solenoid) for as long as you hold the key in the "start" position. However, from your description it does not sound like the rapid clicking. Therefore, it is most likely the starter. Concerning your short drives...yeah, not good on the longevity of the engine. The good news is that you live in TX with hot wx most of the year so that helps your engine warm up very quickly. You should probably take the "long way" to work to give the engine time to warm up. Your oil may become more contaminated than normal with short drives so you may want to change it very frequently (3k miles or every 6 months, whichever comes first).

You can't swap cats from side to side, can you? I guess even if you could, it would probably be a royal pain.

Good to hear you have her back together even with the little leak. Couple of thoughts here(ie: my 2 cents which is worth every penny!). You might not notice anything wrong with the old cat via inspection but the honeycomb is coated with precious(read expen$ive) metals to burn any unspent fuel. You 'might' consider attempting to clean the old cat like the video suggests. And the new non-OEM might be cheaper because they what....scrimped on precious metals maybe? Naw. :whistles: As to what caused the fairly early demise of your cat with just over 100k miles...you made me a big believer in Premium fuel.

4) in serious need of a good, old-fashioned tune-up (plugs, wires, caps, rotors)

It does appear to be the starter solenoid contacts that are bad which, unfortunately, means taking the intake manifold off for access. A fairly big job. I believe your lights are dimming due to the current that the starter solenoid coil is pulling. Also remember that if the car has not been started and driven for a while, the battery is naturally going to be a little drained from all the "testing". You might want to put a charger on it for now. Bad solenoid contacts will usually "make" once in a while. At least enough to start the car. If you can try 25 times and get it to start once then you know for sure it is the starter.

You need to get in there ASAP and find out if there are any crucial missing bolts or whether the mechanic left something loose. It looks like something got launched from the inside to out at fairly high velocity. Here is a pic of a 98 RH cam for comparison.

Yes, SRK brings up a good point. You mention that it will not start. We still need a bit more info. When it wont start, does it click multiple times in rapid succession? Or do you just get a single click each time you turn the key to the start position? If it is the latter, then, as SRK says, it is your starter. If you get multiple, rapid clicks when you turn the key to the start position, it is a bad connection or battery.

I have to respectfully disagree that WD40 will clean anything inside of your cable to make things work better. Wires, in and of themselves do not generally go bad unless they just break in two. Yes they can corrode on the surface but be fine inside. Cables are made of many strands of individual wires. The usual problem with corrosion is within the head of the large female connector which clamps to the battery. Those are usually lead connectors with the copper cable wires crimped within. You can't see that particular connection. Sisterpete, you mention "problems on multiple occasions". Can you explain exactly what kind of electrical problems you are having? That may help in the diagnoses.

Unlike cars of the past, there are more places in which to connect than just the starter and chassis ground. Now, let's back up a moment. Are you sure that you need new cables? You can often clean the old posts and connectors to work well. And if not, the auto stores sell replacement clamps so that you basically snip off the old ones and bolt or solder on new post heads to your existing cables. See this ->