michaelsn

I finally got the right diagram for the CD changer Attached RCA cables and a Bluetooth adapter and it works. Pink. Right positive. Blue. Right negative. Violet. Left positive. Light green. Left channel negative.

1990LS400, Thank you. You have the correct diagram for my CD Changer. I was able to tap into the audio output and connect RCA cables. I now have a AUX line in and attached a Bluetooth adapter.

I got my rebuilt climate control unit from ebay yesterday. Seller name is "jje02" $145 + $15 (S&H) + $100 (core deposit) to get a rebuilt unit. You get your $100 back after you ship back your old one. Fast shipping and he provides you with good instructions on how to take your old unit off. Next project: replace leather on steering wheel and shift knob.

...6 months after... I finally rolled my sleeves and took the bolts off the alternator. Not all the way but enough to work my 17mm wrenches to replace the air control valve. It's been a week now and no more leaks. Yipee!!!

I went with OEM from irontoad.com. Changed my front brake pads 2 weeks ago. No squeals.

I found this on ebay a while back. They tried to sell their do-it-yourself kits. I do not see them selling on ebay anymore. The site shows excellent workmanship but I am waiting for somebody to try it first before I buy their services. http://www.american-stitches.com/amstitche...ges/index2.html Michael

VBdenny, Sounds like you also have the ACV problem. If you pull the hose from the front of the engine I'm sure you'll find some trace of PS fluid around it. I recommend disconnecting the hose from the engine until you decide to have it replaced. I also recommend plugging the hose. From what I've seen, PS fluid is not only being sucked by the engine but it's also being pushed out by the PS pump. Did your daughter wear out your speakers yet? Michael

Let me resurrect this topic. Did anyone actually get to 'buy' anything from this 'dogboy' or is he a flake?

You're looking for an HID (High Intensity Discharge) upgrade. It's not just a bulb. You'll need a new set of equipment for that. Not cheap unless you settle for Sylvania Silverstars. Other threads mentioned that any HID upgrades currently available is "illegal" to install in the US but maybe not down under. :)

TexasLexus94, Thanks for the reply. You just saved me some $. I was looking at buying a set of crowfoots myself. I'll try the box wrench if the epoxy does not stop the leak. Can you tell me where the tube that connects to the ACV (circular bulge side) goes to? I forgot to note it down when I disconnect both hoses.

Here's how I plugged the tubes: I bought a pack either from Autozone or PepBoys. The steering works fine, but filling up the reservoir every week and seeing some of the fluid on my garage floor is annoying so I know I will eventually have to do something about it. This morning I plugged the ACV end of it and added some epoxy. Hopefully that will "seal" it in. If that works, fine I might leave it like that and just replace the ACV when I get another chance at remove anything - maybe when I need to replace the alternator. If that continues to leak then I will replace the ACV and run it around without the vacuum hoses first. Another thread mentioned that a lot of PS fluid went straight to the engine when they forgot to replace the "seat" (see diagram from previous post) inside the pump. When that works then I will reconnect the vacuum hoses. Maybe I'll see an improvement in steering. Maybe. I hope that saves you some misery. :)

It's been a year since I took off the 2 vacuum hoses and plugged the tubes they connect to. I have not noticed a difference in steering. No more white puff of smoke but PS fluid keeps seeping 'through' the plug (or plugs) on the air control valve. I have to top off the reservoir every 2 weeks. I bought a new ACV from irontoad.com and stubby combo wrenches as recommended on another thread. I can't find space to work the wrench (17mm). It hits the metal tube on the pressure port on one side and hits the alternator on the other. I will now relax as my sore hands recuperate and decide if I will take off the alternator, unsrew the pressure port to move the metal tube or just seal the ACV tubes. One more thing I learned today. Amazing. Taking off the belt is really easy - nothing to unscrew.

I have the same situation with my tachmeter and speedometer. My tachmeter has not acted up for a few months but the speedometer never got up again. There was another thread that mentions cleaning the ground connections but did not say where they are.

dcfish, Can you recommend a specfic "conductive" paint for this project? On a related topic, since you have the expertise in working with the instrument cluster, would you be able to determine what causes the tachmeter and the speedometer to work intermittently? Thanks, Michael

I finally got around to yanking the cluster out and replacing the capacitors. Here's some pictures. See #551 to #557 in the gallery. Now if someone can just tell us how to fix the 1. speedometer and tachmeter problem and 2. the partially lit needles (and what is that 'conductive' stuff that needs to go behind it). Michael