jkosasih

I have mine 1996 ES300 at 192000 miles, so far the only problems was the EGR modulator was bad and has been replaced (cost $72). I changed my oil every 5000 miles, change and replaced transmisson fluid & filter every 25000 miles, I change thermostat every 45000 miles and flush the coolant while I change the thermostat ( I don't want to wait until it fail because it will cost me a lot of money if it overheat), this is my second battery so far, and I need to change tire soon. Brake pad is not major job, but when you buy that car you need to check if the timing belt has been replace or not, very important to change timing belt at 90000miles, I have changed mine twice already. The instrument bulb has been replaced as well, 3 burnt lights. Well....so far so good. I believe that if you take care the car, it will last for a long time.

The check engine light come on only if there is a problem, so when it's on again go stop by at autozone and let them read the code. It is weird after is on and off by itself unless you unplug the battery.

Pull the EFI fuse also will turn off your check engine light, unpluggin the battery will result erasing all your preset radio and others electronic you might have install

No, this one should in the back manifold, There are three sensor total. One is in the front manifold, one is back manifold, and one after the catalyc converter.

It's located in the back close to firewall.

Well, I found these problems quite bit. My customer one day took his car to get timing belt and waterpump replaced, and when I changed it I notice that the timing was wrong, so I adjusted where it should be. After customer pick it up, he called me and wonder what did I do to cause the car run so much better. So I told him what happened. ( He has 185K miles on his ES300) Other customer had a tune up with regular plug, replaced it with lexus recomendation, changed air filter and check the timing. that improved his car quite bit. Transmission also sometimes cause problem when it's clogged, Dirty air intake could also cause problem. So, first check your timing, check spark plug and air filter, clean air intake and please check your transmission oil.

Hm... I wonder why he said " I wanna make it to 400 miles a tank -- any suggestions? " That's mean he did not go to 400miles yet maybe I should go back to English class...oh well cheers.... :D

Hey Braxton...I got 50miles/gallon.....secret is drive for 28miles, stop ,and walk for the next 22miles. :P How did you figure it out that you can get an average 47miles braxton ? if i calculate the way you stated 360miles/16.5gal= 21.8miles/gal, which is worst than original lexus claimed. If you are using K&N Filter you should get more power not more miles. Higher intake will decrease the mpg. ;)

RX300 transmission is not bad at all, I have seen someone's RX have close to 215K miles with the same transmission. He told me that he always change tranny fluid and filter every 15K miles and oil & filter every 5K miles, the only things that went bad on him are the oxygen sensor, EGR modulator and thermostat so far...oh and battery (which are normal at that miles). Bytheway for those of you that have over 90K miles, timing belt replacement is a must.

P1153 should be Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) insufficient switching bank 2 sensor 1, which is located in the front by your exhaust manifold. The best condition in which to remove the sensor is when the engine is moderately warm ( NOT HOT). The exhaust maniford has developed enough heat to expand and make the removal easier. You can do it yourself, take it to dealer will cost you arm and leg.

Several issues need to check. You could have a vaccum leak, the timing could be wrong and ignition coil could be about to fail. Do you feel a power loss with you car? or just puff and shake the car when it's idling only?

I am sorry if my suggestion above was not clear, I assumed he knew that in order to do the test, the engine must be on. Yeah I treid it with the engine on.. still no luck. Lexusboy04, I haven't give up on you yet, I'm still scratching my head. Please try to test the solenoid valve for the hydraulic motor fan,Using an ohmmeter, measure solenoid valve resistance. Resistance should be 7.6-8.0 ohms at 77°F (warm up a little).

I am sorry if my suggestion above was not clear, I assumed he knew that in order to do the test, the engine must be on.

Try to jumper the OP1 and E1 on Data Link Connector,When terminals OP1 and E1 are connected, the circuit of the ECT sensor is grounded, the cooling fan should run at approx. 1,100 rpm(fail safe operation occurs). If still does not work I am affraid you probably have a bad Cooling Fan ECU (located inside under the dashboard of passenger side)

Have you tested the cooling Tempature sensor for cooling fan? It control the cooling fan spin. It is located by thermostat housing, unplug it and it should give a high spin for the fan, if it does not normally the sensor is bad, remember is not the coolang temp. sensor by the rad cap (that one is for the temp. gauge).