Neo

This is not true. There are no (non proprietary) A/V input in the rear of the headunit.

What are the tire widths? This seems to be a strange tire setup as the rear wheel will be 1" taller than the fronts (if you are tunning the typical 245/275). Was this on purpose? This is not necessarily true. With the staggered setup, both 19s and 20s typically run 35 series front and 30 series rear. Both will have the same tire sidewall so ride quality would be very similar.

Hey Neo, Where would I be able to pick up a set of Daizens for my 1999 GS300. I've been looking around online and have only found the TRD sway bars. If you could link me to a site that would be great. Thanks. Try TMEngineering. Todd is great because he knows the product inside out, partly because he did a lot of the R&D for Daizen. The website is http://www.tmengineering.net

Lexus/Toyota tunes the engine differently for each car. There are power, gas mileage, consumer market, car spec (weight, driveability, ...), ... issues that they tailor the different vehicle towards.

How low are you? How excessive is it? There is a slight neg camber built into the car. It handles better that way. The bad news is that there is no for sale/marketed camber kit for the 2nd gen GS. I know of a couple that is in testing (and has been for over a year :() but they are not available for purchase yet.

This is a 98-00 HD based system, though. I am not sure how well it will work but it would be going backwards for his 01-05 GS.

All of these would be custom work. There are no pre-built parts that would give you what you want. Sorry. Thanks, do you have any idea who could do such work? Please let me know...thanks Let me check some references and get back to you. You should start a new thread, though, since this is becoming off topic to this thread. :) A few warnings though. 1. The Win Racing kit you selected has a knock-off version. Be careful when you buy it that you got what you paid for. 2. The Win Racing kit is LOW. If you plan to lower the car (and I think you should), it will be even lower. Adding a CF lip below that will be asking for trouble. ;) 3. I have not looked into the CF lip, but the headlight will be $1000 - $1500 (by the time you are done with parts and labor). I don't know if this is the range you were expecting. Whichever the case, I just wanted to put it out there.

Nice. You should change the title of that ad. I think you are missing a zero. ;)

Great price. Go for it. ML is one of the nicer OEM systems. Unfortunately, the implementation in the GS is lackluster compared to the ML system in the LS430 and SC430.

Sprry, this is the right one http://www.l-tunedparts.com/index.php I do not remember an across-the-board discount code. There have been codes for specific items but not a generic one.

TT rears will not fit without a custom bracket. One of the downsides of the TTs are that they are heavy, heavier than OEM even. This will impact handling. Another issue with the TTs is that the calipers are huge and will require wheels that can fit over them. The OEMs will definitely not.

All of these would be custom work. There are no pre-built parts that would give you what you want. Sorry.

You can try a 01-05 GS300 or a 98-00 GS400. Although still not a manual transmission, these models have eshift. You get a little more "manual" control. In any case, it is as close to manual as you will ever get with the stock GS.

Too hard. Too expensive. If you want current, aftermarket is probably your best bet. (I am not sure what you'd do about climate control though.) Either that or upgrade to a 01+ model GS. ;)

The Eclipse are made by Fujitsu Ten who also makes the current Lexus Nav. This is probably as close to OEM as you are going to get without gettin OEM. :)

Although shocks and springs work together, body roll is more a function of the springs than the shocks. I agree with the others as far as sway bars. In your case, if you like the OEM ride quality, replace the shocks with OEMs and invest in a set of aftermarket sway bars. The Daizens are probably your best bet.

I've never heard of this "built in" feature. If your car is stock, you might want to get that looked at.

Here is another resource if you don't see anything here. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=154

Sienna would be (and is) my choice. :) It is on our "to be purchased" list. :)

Yellow fogs

No Prob. Good luck with everything. Post back when things are done. :)

Glad I can help. Check your PM. I have 20s so I went with a larger diameter. Keeping the OEM diameter, I'd have to run 30 series in front and 25 series in the rear. That is just too little rubber for me. There is a bit of intermitten rubbing that I have to deal with but I am OK with it. Some people who has 19s also choose to run the diameter larger by an inch (just like 20s). You get similar rubbing issues but you do get 40 front and 35 rear setups. This is the same as 18s so you get a couple of advantages: 1. More rubber = softer ride 2. Since the height is taller, you don't have to lower as much to reduce the fender gap. You also get a little more ground clearance to clear things like speed bumps better. Yup. Hub-centric rings are usually needed for most aftermarket wheels. Optimally, yes. Once you are done with the shop, though, you generally only tweak thingsa few mms at a time so it is not that bad. If you go for the gusto and do corner balancing with your alignment, then you really want to figure out the height so that the shop will totally tune your car's suspension.

Offset is very important in determining if a set of rims will fit on a car. In addition to the width, this number helps to show how flushed to the fender the rim sits. This is not the definition of offset (but you can find that on the net ;)) but in the real world, the combination of those two numbers will determine how the rim sits in your fender well. The lower the number, the farther out the wheel moves towards the fender. For example, 20x8.5 +38 will be inside the fender while 20x8.5 +10 will sit outside the fender. (The offset number is a mm neasurement.) Actually that offset number determines how deep the face of the rim sits in the rim. To use your example, +38 the face of the rim will sit closer to the front of the rim. +10 will sit deeper in the rim. The lower the number, the deeper the face sits in the rim giving the rim a bigger lip. It's true though because of the lower offset the rim will be pushed out more from the fender. I'm not saying Neo is wrong just in case, I just wanted to give another p.o.v. That is not entirely true. I did not want to talk about face location because it is not fixed. In a typical wheel, you are right. On custom wheels, though, where you can vary the lip size, you can build up the thickness of the the mount plate. If it is thicker there, then you get less lips. Offset does not change. Why would you want to do this? BBK clearance. :) In addition to companies having different faces that curves slightly differently to deal with BBKs, the mount area can also be thicker. How do I know? My next wheels were built this way. :) The only real absolute is the outer edge of the wheel (lips or face if no lips) moving closer or farther from the hub or the fender if you look at it from the other side. Again, I did not want to define offset as most will need diagrams to help and these are all over the net. I just wanted to get into cause and effect. :D

Congrats on the purchase. For that mileage, I think it is a little high but it also depends on locale. I would not worry about it. It is done. Enjoy it. I have about 80k on my 98 and it is running great.

If you go the MDX route, I'd suggest an 04+ model if you are not buying new. There were some tranny issues with the earlier years. The 04 was also a refresh year with the body and interior. Otherwise, if you do not have minvan stigma ;), I'd reiterate the Sienna.