Neo

Now that you've posted the numbers, they jog the memory a litte. I had thought the front rotor for the LS was a tiny bit smaller but the rest looks about right.

What do you mean by worked?

If I am thinking of the right pic, the exhaust is the RMM. It is pretty quiet compared to the Tanabe.

Here are a few I took last year: The ones with the lights on are a little bit older than the others.

I must have missed this last year. :( Just in case, the ballasts are just zip tied in the engine bay. Nothing special.

Not really. Intakes on the GS will not give youa big jump if at all. The SRT has a piggyback ECU to manipulate the car to use a different AF ratio. All the other intakes may help with the breathing but eventually, the OEM ECU will tune itself to the parameters it expects. If this is what happens with full intakes, the filter will not make a dent. I think the best power upgrade for the GS4 is the torque converter. Other than for sound and look, if it is more power I want, I'd put intake and exhaust money towards a torque converter/tranny cooler combo. Actual numbers won't go up but youwill be able to make the most out of the 300 you do have.

I believe performance is similar. They look different. They are both big and heavy. ;) Here is what the calipers look like (just look at the shape and not the stickers): SupraTT: LS:

Lowering a car is a personal choice. You can lower with 16s or 17s or bigger if you like. Since the car comes with either 16s or 17s, it won't look too out of place if you do not lower. With 17s, you will have less rubber sidewall. You will more than likely gain a bit in handling but will lose that soft cushy ride of the 16s. Chrome wheels also tend to be heavier and some say that the rims are weaker due to the chroming process. Being heavier, you may notice a change in acceleration and/or ease of steering. Chrome will also eventually peel in average wheels.

Just one more thing to check. I had originally thought you put back the OEM rims but if not, are these rims hubcentric? Is there any vibration at any speed while driving? Rotors would have been my first guess too but since it has been hashed, I thought I'd suggest something else. ;)

Well, currently there is no way to lower the car anyway. ;)

Out of the ones you listed, only the Apexi and theTanabe are cat back. The L-Tuned, RMM, and Borla are not. The Tanabe, L-Tuned, and the Borla will fit nicely with the OEM bumper. The L-Tuned and Borla should be flushed but the Tanabe will extend just a little. The RMM and Apexi will stick out.

The airbag goes for $5-600 unless you find it at a junk yard or find it used on eBay. I personally have given up on this mod as the close to $1k can be used elsewhere on my car. ;)

20s will be fine. I have 20s. There is a little bit of rubbing in front ifyou turn the wheel full lock or whe reversing. The normal tire spec for 20s makes the wheel diameter about 1" bigger than OEM. This sizing is what accounts for the rubbing. Wheels are very personal. Honestly, neither of the wheels appeal to me but if you like them, that is all that matters. The first wheel, being 20x7.5, is narrow. Even the OEM 17s ads 17x8. I have 20x8.5 fronts and 20x10 in the rear. Width and offset will determine how well the rims fit. What is your budget? Since you are in NY, I'd suggest contacting D2-Autosport. Derrick is very helpful and can make suggestions based on your needs and budget. He also has a sweet GS400. :) Tell him Neo sent you over from LOC.

Just in case, to put all doubts to rest, here is a debadged pic: So no definitely no holes for the GS. :D

Most cars have staggered width setups and not staggered rim sizes. Some like the Corvettes do but the car was calibrated to have different size rims. What other manufacturers (like BMW) have staggered widths. If you know of a BMW that does otherwise, let me know. ;) Depending on the offset, you can easily run the 18x8 with 245/40/18 tires up front and 265/35/18 or 275/35/18 in the rear. You can even push for 285/35/18 in the rear. Better yet run 18x8.5 and 18x9.5 or 18x10 with the 245/275 tires.

From the description, it says Wise style. I assume this is a Wise knock-off? Is the bumper fiberglass or FRP?

No holes. You may need adhesive remover/goo gone/something similar to get the remaining residue off.

The airbag on the GS will not fit on the wood wheel. Lexus changed the design after 01. The ONLY airbag that will work is the 01 RX300 airbag. All the newer airbags are 2-stage and has a different connector than the 98-00 GS, which had a single stage airbag and connector. The 01 RX300 airbag had a unique quality that it was a single stage airbag (and appropriate connector) with the shape of the 01+ airbags. BTW - It is only a coincidence that you found an 01 RX300 wood wheel. This airbag issue is independent. For example. if you found an 02 RX, GS wood wheel, you will still need the 01 RX300 airbag.

Good to know. I've only seen you talk about this and I am sure you've built a harness for the conversion. On the other hand, most people I know don't go this route and swap out the changer too. I think it is simpler/more straightforward to get a new changer that is compatible with the new HU vs trying to figure out the wiring to make the OEM one work.

Wait. Which BMWs are running staggered rim sizes? As for your goal, you want as much traction as possible so you want the widest tire? Is this right? Also, if you are running staggered rim sizes, are you planning to have different diameter wheels front and back or same diameter but more sidewall in front vs rear? I'm just making sure we are on the same page. :)

Why staggerred rim sizes? It will either looks funny (IMO) with different sidewall sizes or it will have 2 different wheel diameters. In theory this is bad since the rotational rate will be different front and rear, and can potentially throw off the computer. I say in theory because there are very few who have done this to have any data on the issue.

Lol. :) Yes, car on the left then wheels then lug nuts on the right. If you look at the positive offset picture, this is really the only way it can work. ;)

LOL. You are not stupid. :) Let me try to explain the pic. As I am typing this, the linked pic seems to be gone so I am linking another one. I have a feeling you may have only done step one of looking at the offset in your mind. If you look at the pic and see what is marked as positive offset, it would seem like as the offset gap increases, the face of the wheel seems to move more towards the fender and "outside" of the car. In a sense, this is true. But then, you have to mount the wheel onto the car. If you imagine this step, then the mounting surface needs to go that much farther in so that the wheel can mount onto the car. So, the bigger the gap from the center line (the larger the +offset number), the farther it has to go back inside the fender to mount onto the hub. Therefore, the smaller the offset number, the less the wheel goes in to be mounted. If you look at the numbers, then as the +offset number decreases, the rim face (seemingly) move outwards towards the fender and possibly beyond. Does this make sense?

You mean the one I have for sale? It is the Eclipse AVN2454. It was in the title but i guess it was not in the text body. Oops. Sorry about that.

Now that someone has taken care of the technical explanation (saves me from having to type something similar ;) :D ), the combination of the rim width and offset will determine how close your wheel gets to touching the fender. The lower the offset number (in this case, +14 is lower than +34), the closer you are to the fender and if low enough, past the fender an is actually sitting on the "outside" of the car body. The front and rear wheel well have different tolerances and some get different offsets to get the best result in terms of how flushed they want to get to the fender.