GaDawg

If you're lucky enough to live in a city with shops that can recoat, you're good to go...pretty cheaply. But if not, like me, you would have to send it elsewhere to get it done (expensive) or buy them through the local dealerships boady shop at $179 a piece. That doesn't seem too bad until you consider that I bought four gorgeous Falken Torque 5 silver 18"x8" wheels for $145 piece...http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?wheelmodel=Torque+5+-+silver&wheelbrand=Falken. BTW, I cannot tell you how incredible these Falken look on these cars....makes ya fall in love with them all over again.

Guys, I had the same problem. First, go to the junk yard. These grommets are the same on all Lexus' around the same year groups and I believe they're exactly the same as the Toyotas...makes sense. However, they were worn out from age and elements and didn't last too long. Lemaylexus, you may have better luck in IL than I did here in the Iowa side of the Quad Cities. Ratatat, you may have the same problem I did, but give it a shot What I ended up doing recently after the junkyard ones failed was go to the dealership and found out that they have them for, I think, a dollar a piece and you have to buy a pack of them...not too bad. It's worth it so the armrest doesn't rock all over the place. Happy hunting.

Status on driver's upper door trim? How about the long wood trim piece on the passenger door...condition & price? How about both wood pieces on the door?

Based on Jibbby's advice, I went with a K&N filter that fits in the stock box. I did notice a bump in performance, but I'm sure it's not quite as free-flowing a conical filter without the box. Its MUCH cheaper &53) though and it wil only help.

It will actually cost $350 to get the recalibrated TC from Lextreme, then once you send in your old one, they credit your account $175. Just $175 for quick launches? Thanks please.

Current (first automatic...EVER!): Diamond Pearl White 94 SC400 Planned: Black 10' Cadillac CTS Coupe Had (ALL manual...man I miss throwing!): Black 03 Mazda 6s Black 99 BMW 323i Silver 94 Toyota Celica GT White 92 VW Corrado Red 88 VW Wolfsburg Scirocco Champagne 87 VW Scirocco Black 84 VW GTI Black 79 Ford Mustang Turbo Cobra...my first car!

1. Pull out cup holder. 2. Remove screws holding down the rear portion of the console. 3. Assuming you have an AT, slide the trim on the stalk of the shifter down to expose two, rear-facing screws....remove screws. 4. Remove ashtray 5. Pull up panel around shifter and unplug wiring harnesses. 6. Remove screws at base of center console behind the ashtray assembly. 7. Pull out and down towards the shifter and the whole trim comes off. 8. You're good to go. I'm pretty sure I covered all the steps...if I missed one, it'll be obvious what it is and what you'll need to do. Cheers.

Mine too man! I was thinking about starting a thread on it as well. Last year it seemed OK, but this year is cold as hell in Iowa and I have to do all kinds of stuff to get it warm. First, I crank it up, let it warm up some. Secondly, I jump in and hold the throttle up to ~2500-3000 for about 20-30 secs to get it up to a reasonable temp. Next, while driving, I floor it every chance I get to get it to warm up. And finally, I put it in Neutral at stop lights and hold the throttle open as I mentioned before. This all actually works reasonably well, but my gas mileage sucks because of it (understandable). Unfortunately, as soon as I slow down, as you mentioned, it starts cooling down. I've tried all vent settings and nothing holds the temp for any extended amount of time. The final clincher is that the engine temp is just below halfway (normal operating zone) and stays there regardless of what the temp blowing out of the vents feels like. I do have to say once it gets REALLy warmed up, its too hot, but it's taking FOREVER to get there. Maybe someone out here knows what we can do.

Pics are a must.

I'll need a VIN JT8UZ30C4R0035848

So fooling around with the fuse and battery didn't work? If not, then your fix is replacing the TRAC actuator. I thought I was going to have to do this until I read about resetting it via the fuse and battery...good luck.

I know I'll probably regret even asking...How about a black leather, 3-spoke steering wheel (either GS or RX...99-00) and a single-stage airbag with the chrome emblem (I think the RX is the only one with the chrome for those years). Iin case the price is as bad as I think it'll be, is there any chance you may have a contact for used ones? Tan door panels for 94 SC400? Carpet (black or tan) for same? 97' conversion kit? If not the whole kit, the side skirts. Thanks.

How about your rotors and calipers? Condition? Price for all four corners to 52806? Thanks.

I believe there are 4...2 aft of the forward cats and (this is the part I'm not 100% sure of) 2 on the engine. As I understand it, the ECU collects data from the O2 sensor(s?) on the engine and the 2 aft of the cats to determine how the engine's running and adjusts accordingly. I would assume the primary O2(s?) are near the ECU or can be traced via connections. I hope this helps, probably not. :chairshot:

I love the way you installed your PC monitor up high and the climate control low...how did you make the trim for that? I have an Alpine IVA-W200 touchscreen headunit (about the same size as your monitor) that I'd love to raise up so my kids can watch DVDs from the back seats without the dildomatic blocking some of their view. Do you have a template for the trim? BTW, I like the simple, clean look of the black, but woodgrain #3 would be my choice if your leaning towards the woodgrain look.