leximus

I agree with IS400....but the terminal to diagnose your issue can also be found under the dash near your hood release (near your left knee). Here's a link to how to code read from this terminal using a simple wire: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

I agree with IS400....but the terminal to diagnose your issue can also be found under the dash near your hood release (near your left knee). Here's a link to how to code read from this terminal using a simple wire: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

I'd recommend getting 2" coil spacers. A 4-pack (2 for each rear coil) costs about $7.99. Gives about a 1/2" to 3/4" play, depending on what you have in the trunk. I had a sound system (2 amps, capasitor, 3-12" sub box) weighing in just under 90-100 lbs. which finally just gave me about a 1/2" play for each tire, just enough to take the rub out. Let me know how it goes whether you roll your rears or not...LOL!

I went to Arnott Industries online (can't remember the URL) however, I was very displeased. Try Strutmasters.com and put in your make and model. I should have went with those. At Arnott, I paid about 750 for all 4 coil over strut/conventionals. I had my mechanic put them in for about 3 hours labor. He only charged 300, should have been 450. I was very unhappy with the ones I bought from Arnott as I thought my mechanic put the rears on the fronts and visa versa, however, he followed manufactures recommendations. I had to use clamps in the front to pull the car down and lifters in between the coils for the back to bring the back end up....I was so unhappy. There went my baby... I do think it is the actuator(s)...better to have it diagnosed as I believe an actuator is quite less expensive than an air strut. Let me know how things go.... Ciao!

Sounds like your air bag actuators are acting up. If you'd like to retain the air suspension, I would get your actuators checked out before the air bags go. It is quite expensive to replace each air bag, especially at the stealer. I eventually went to conventional coil over strut for my 91. Rides somewhat stiff but it's fixed. Let me know how it turns out....

I would agree....

Just purchased a 98 LS400 from the dealer. MINT condition but no Owners Manual. I want to investigate this car from inside out. My unanswered question at this point is..what does the Function button do on the steering wheel? I haven't figured it out yet. Thanks! Leximus

Is your CEL (Check Engine Light) on also? You may need to read the codes associated. It also could be something in your brake system. Is your TRAC button pushed in or out? Have you played with that? I would start by removing your ECU fuse for about 20 seconds and then re-inserting. This should reset the ECU to a clean start. Then, when the TRAC comes on again, if it does, you can check the code(s) to diagnose the exact issue. Let me know how this turns out. I do have the repair manual electronically filed on my home computer, so I'll check back and send the attachment if needed for the TRAC portion.

I had a similar problem, but thought it was my alternator. Turned out the positve batery cable was not completely secured. Hmmm...

Have you noticed any effect on your gas mileage or anything like that? I certainly haven't...it just doesn't seem to run any differently than it ever did. Its gone on and off a couple times since I posted that...definetely getting annoying but seems to run fine. Slight affect on the gas mileage. I'm just worried about replacing the O2 sensors AGAIN and then the EGR stuff...might as well get it done though...

I went to Auto Zone and picked up their pain (Arctic White) and sprayed my bumper. Then I used the Clear Cote in the same section and spayed it on first tacky, then a good coat. It yellows like polyurethane does and hues the white down to a slight slight yellow hue. If you really study the car, you could see the difference, but glancing at it for a few moments, it blends right in.

LOL!!! 2 funny!!!

I have the same exact issues. the egr temp sensor itself may be acting up, or the vaccuum modulator might be getting clogged, but I do notice that most times when I "open her up" on the highway, the CEL goes off for about 60-100 miles then goes back on again shortly thereafter. A mechanic I know who is familiar with my car says the same thing you're saying about "the egr temp sensor itself may be acting up, or the vaccuum modulator might be getting clogged". He says if I don't get it diagnosed/worked on soon, that my O2 sensors may need to get changed (again). It bothers me to no end also. I don't have money for the parts, but I do have a mechanic that will come to my house, diagnose and fix the issue.

The route I had gone was going to conventional coil over strut from Arnott. I wasn't about to spend 1100 for each air suspension replacement (X4). However, I am very dissatisfied with Arnott's product as the rear end of my car is at least 3 inches lower than the front. I have had to purchase the rubber coil spacers (@ 5.99 for 4) to lift the car and have been replacing every three months as they wear. Additionally, I have heard good things about strutmaster's replacement conventional COS, so that is my next purchase...