SupraMan

Basically, I'd assume the former owner was consistantly a slug with all the upkeep to protect yourself. The PCV, fuel filter, cabin air filter (check threads on this; if there is not one in the slot, add one) all need attention. I'd flush and renew engine oil/filter; transmission needs it's 120k filter/fluid change (check threads on this, lotsa good stuff) and add an inline transmission fluid filter which renew at every 10k. Flush/refill power steering and brake fluid (use DOT 4). You get all the fluids at Pep Boys (or the Toyota stealership if you want to pay more). Timing belt change means change belts & water pump too, along with all the seals in the front while you are there. Flush cooling system before t/b, change thermostat and pressure cap before longlife antifreeze refill. 2nd round? Tire balance and alignment if the rubber looks good, otherwise Tire Rack.com. If rear end rattles, renew the sway bar bushings first which will probably cure it cheaply. The idea is to reset/set a baseline to do the regular maintenance from that point - it will be much less outlay after this con$iderable jump. Did you change plug wires with plug change? Were those plugs iridium? After 11 years/120k, they are at the end of their life, too. You have only 3 wires. The rear valve cover seal is probably leaking (common problem at this age, easy fix). Take off throttle body and clean IAC like you mentioned and anything else dirty while you are in the neighborhood. This is a good foundation ... good luck with your ES.

I can't find the data on O2 sensors. Does anyone know the band for 'in spec' sensor resistance in a 96 ES300? Can't find it anywhere on 5 pages of ES posts researched :cries: , not waiting for the engine light to tell me 'failed sensor' on a roadtrip. I know oxygen sensors degrade gradually over time/mileage, just wanted to check mine to see how far off spec they are. I did learn a lot from this post on the LS400 forum: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/mainoxygensensor.html. 5.1 to 6.3 ohms is what the LS has. but of course that is a vastly different application in the v8 from ours. Thanks again guys for the assist!

Neb & Golf, Check out the ASX vs. KH16 Kuhmo: the ASX is higher rated in all categoreies for just pennies more/tire. They are both overall value leaders, the ASX is just higher mileage and speed rated. The KH may indeed be a tad quieter, but not anything significant. You can't go wrong with either one!

You did not mention budget as one of your parameters, but I assume that would be a plus also. The Kuhmo ASX is a great tire at $49 each at Tire Rack.com; an ultra high performance all season category tire with an outstanding 420AA rating. Read some of their 1133 customer reviews (!) on this tire, comparative test results, and technical specs that performs far beyond it's cheapo price. You can spend a lot more for less tire, check out the 18 competitors reviews. If you have a Tire Kingdom/NTB outlet locally, they have a Tire Rack national account and can order this tire for you. You do pay sales tax this way, but get the convenient local outlet road hazard service rather than TR's if you like this option. Or you can just be like everyone else and go plunk down the most money for some name brand Eurotire and hope everyone is impressed by the sidewall branding when you are parked! I drive hard and have 30000+ miles on mine, getting another set when these Kuhmo's need refreshing. This is a comfortable, quiet tire which exceeds expectations for the price.

The bushings just spread open, with persuasion :D . Get a new set, preferably urethane ones which are harder durometer than the oem rubber. More responsive, better control. Check eBay, they have 'em. Lube with dielectric grease, open them and push on to appropriate contact points on the bar. Clamp them back, you are done to enjoy better handling and 'no golf balls in the trunk.' OOPZ, forgot to say :chairshot: no need to take off bar, just 4 bolts on the retaining brackets. Easy fix!

Kudos!!! Great install job, looks factory. Details are great, ES pimped up to higher level very successful.

I had a sticking ring on my turbo Supra a couple years ago ~ in spite of regular changes in synthetic oil and all sorts of other finicky maintenance. Before the planned teardown/fix, one of my forum buddies in Supra Mk4 suggested Marvel Miracle Oil. Snake oil in my 2JZgte? NEVER! Well, I did try it and quickly freed up the ring, solved the problem completely. If all else fails, get this snake oil at KMart/Advance/Pep Boys and give it a shot. It worked for me, bring on the flack that 'additives suck' guys. Good luck, hope it is something stuck and not fractured.

I had a check engine light come on 600 miles from home on my 2800 mile Thanksgiving trip ... YUK! Found out that not all Advance Auto shops do a free read/reset the OBD, this was a $42.00 deal. No big deal, let me know it wasn't anything serious. just the 0401 code dealing with insufficient EGR flow (like yours). I did an EGR clean (along with the IAC) recently, so clogged ports there wasn't the problem. They said to change the VSV, which I did ... still the light after the reset. :chairshot: The regulator was next to be replaced AFTER I read the threads here when I got home. That half baked kinda solution cost me $130 on a new workshop spares shelf part ~ if you need this component, I have a new one ... cheap! :D The satisfaction of doing the repair successfully was just as great as getting a pointer or two from the experts here in the forum to make it happen. Rather than getting 'a pointer' to the Lexus garage cash register which would have probably replaced my EGR system, plus labor. Thanks guys once again.

That's right , Tom. I used to work at a Mercedes/Maybach/Lambo dealership, made friends with the dent removal guy who did a great job removing my many ES300 purchase dents last year. Bring cash, offer to drop it off when they are not so busy and you will pay much less. Getting someone who is servicing a high end lot is a must, pay a visit if you can when they are on site. I paid $140 for all dents removed on 4 panels, best money I ever spent on the car. Second was the detailer who went over everything, retouched nicks n scratches o'plenty for $85 cash. For two and a quarter total, car looks very presentable! Be flexible, offer cash.

Toys, I was remiss in not mentioning your many insightful comments about this subject. Very helpful, makes my life a lot easier to have lotsa intelligent help from web buds like you!

Last summer, the Toronto Toyota webring announced a group purchase for suspension components. I got in on it, getting a rear sway bar for my ES. Geez, after getting that and new rear tie links finally installed, it's like a new ride. It is amazing how much different the roll angle has been reduced in transient cornering, Papa Toyota designed a ton of oversteer in our rides that is greatly reduced with this mod. Don't get me wrong ~ with stock springs, ride height and struts, this is not my Supra BUT boy is it a lot more fun on weekly trips to the mountains! Thanks guys for all the great input ... I'm having more fun that I thought possible in the daily driver with a simple upfit.

GS man, Thanks for the invitation, I may have to be at a real estate closing ... but that may postpone 'til next week. Send cell number to me so we can chat ... thx for the invite, LexBro. SupraMan, if you're going and want to caravan down I plan to leave Charlotte about 10am on Friday.

Anyone here on site going to attend Atlanta n Lexfest activities? Sounds like fun ...

I've seen the blurb on the bottom of the posts, and seriously thinking of joining up with the Lexfest later this month in Atlanta. Do we have a car corral? If we are planning on camping, is this a group area also? I need to get tickets for the Petit LeMans, it will be weird hearing the lack for roar from the winning Audi TDI R10's! Looking forward to seeing my Lexbuds, and personally thanking a few for excellent inputs that have $aved me buck$ and made my Flying Carpet quicker n better running. JR

Question: I have a 96 ES300, so the rear bar would be the 18mm BTR36@$112 (plus shipping). Like other suspension companies, do they include the correct swaybar bushings? If not, I'm looking and didn't see them, just the SPF-2997 ones for the stock chassis bar. No mention of end links at all. :chairshot: I am very thankful our buddies in ToyoNation are doing this ... contactacted the US distributor last month with a negative reply to supplying them to me. Maybe I referenced the Lex and not Toyo parts, but they said 'not available' nonetheless. Great news!

This may be from sway bar grommets that are dried out from age/use, as it was with my 1996 ES300. I accidently ordered 2 sets of repacement urethane ones to fix the problem (it did for me, anyhow). They are better, because they are higher durometer (harder and much more responsive) than the OEM rubber ones. That back bar is key to tight turn in response, so this is a good place to start either way. Let me know if you are interested, it will save me the eBay listing effort!

Thank you, godfather!

There are a couple instrument panel bulbs which are out on my 96 ES300. I did a search on here, and found the right link on replacing the EIKO #8640 bulbs ... but they didn't say where to get them. Is this an auto parts store item, or do we have to order them from somewhere online? Thanks, hope all my Lexbuds have a safe holiday!

Khhoang, Thanks for the input man, the 9006J bulb seems unavailable in US lamp sources, at least when I exhausted the google seach results. Do you have any suggestions for domestic sources? I like these lights, and know they'll pass any dimwitted auto inspector's (we have annual inspection in this state) scrutiny. Cutoff is better than US one, I actually like both the high and low better on these JDM's. How did you solve getting more bulbs, or are you just waiting for the inevitable and enjoying in the meantime? ;) Thanks for the assist, bud!

Hi guys n gals. Bought a prime condition set of JDM headlights for my '96 ES300 off eBay, which arrived in just 4 business days from Japan to NC in perfect shape. Cool setup, with separate turn and parking lamps as the major variant from our domestic parts. Oh, the low beam is very flat 'z' cutoff ~ while high beams much more circular pattern than US spec lights (or so they seemed on my test ride tonight). So, I installed them and found a problem. They flash on turn fast (even with new bulbs), acting like when you have the turn element on the bulb burned out. :cries: The JDM #194 turn signal lamps apparently have a different resistance spec than the US spec #1157's. Is there another lamp that I can replace them with to fool the logic circuit? Anyone having some thoughts on how to slow them down, I appreciate your valuable input, as always ...

MB, I'm not sure about the dynamics or physics of this, but conjecture prefiltered fluid had suspended metallic particles that affected the A/T's performance. I'm all about mataining things to last longer and work better. Not ASE certified or even working daily in a garage environment, I am at a loss why it works better. BUT, it does work better with a smoother shift transition (between 2-3 especially) ar higher loads. I didn't say it ET's lower, just shifting noticably smoother with some loud pedal on. Thx, Toys ... this A/T preventive maintenance is new to me, I'm one of those anal guys who needs to torque by the book. Doing it by feel for me mostly works, don't wanna guess when big $$$ might be the consequence of a dumbass missed cue.

The Kuhmo's are from a great pedigree with their racing 'Victoracer' tire series among a few that the SCCA Solo guys prefer. I was very bigoted against Korean rubber for a long time, surprised when I tried them on a used car test ride. After this experience, I bought a set for my daily driver, which gave great traction, wear and low noise for almost no bucks and lasted 30,000+ hard driven roadster miles. My ES has the new Solus KH's on, a very quiet grand touring tire which turns/stops very well in dry and wet conditions. Rides great, is quiet too. It's an H rated tire, rated 50,000 miles I think. Oh, under $50 each at TireRack.com ~ read their reviews for more insight from lots more people that bought them and just aren't spouting opinion. They are a nice balance at a bargain price.

The Tiberon is a very nice car for a 21 year old. There are lots of ricer mods for it, and a growing fan base. I'm old school CRX/del Slo modder, but am impressed by the V6 Tib nonetheless. Safer choice than a potentially fried BMW, I think you're doin' good! B)

SK, I feel the difference with improved shifts incorporating a Raybestos filter into the trans cooler line as you suggested. Love the better response overall; seems to be noticably smoother under full load 2-3 shift. And know that I appreciate input about the reduced line pressure with an external cooler addition, that's one project that will be shelved for a while with this insight. I'm going to drop the transmission pan & clean it, and change the filter now. After a search (yeah, I looked first! :D ), I couldn't find any reference on torque applied to the 18 or so bolts holding the pan. Also, if I read correctly, there will be around 3.5 qt. of fluid to be replaced in this filter replacement proceedure, right? Thanks again guys, it's nice having an e-resource!

This is a great car! Sure it's no M Series BMW, and that wind noise on the Gen 1 ES can be a pain on a long trip ... but what an automotive bargain, especially if it has been cared for by previous owners. Hey where else can you get something for $6,000 that people say 'nice car' and 'geez, aren't we moving on up' to you? The 1MZ platform has to be one of the most reliable made, with parts plentiful from all the sister Toyota's out there. It's perfect as my realtor car ~ I can put lots of miles on it without depreciating the value OR worrying about it not being reliable. It presents me well as a professional without a huge monthly payment to keep it up. There's not lots of modding options, so we won't be burning the wallet on upgrades. It rides great, not a sports car BUT kicked a** up in West Virginia back roads on a trip just after I bought the car last fall. Kinda shocked me actually, the ES was much quicker in the twisty mountain roads that I suspected. I kept the engine on the boil with the A/T in 2nd and 3rd with overdrive off; revs over 4,000 actually give some smart acceleration and surprisingly entertaining. The brakes are powerful, especially with ceramic pad upgrades. This is a fun car to play with. :P I wanted a 98+ GS before I located this bargain ES 300, but see no advantage doing so now unless it's the eight banger. And then, it will cost a bundle over what I drive presently. You can't find good GS 400's with lotsa miles that haven't been spanked ~ at least I haven't found one reasonably priced with good miles and condition (yet)! Lots of people want the newest and fastest, but this car is much more than adequate for just about all my needs for not much money. Speed? That's where the 600 rwhp Turbo Supra comes in ...