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That, or it was overheating & the computer put it in a limp mode to save the transmission from major damage. Exactly right! rosie

Old story so I'll condense it a little. I got my ES 300 from my brother in law who was told it had a dead transmission. SAME SYMPTOMS, exactly. I got a new radiator and she has been running fine ever since. I did flush the transmission fluid and A/C gas. But she worked well when she was cool and as soon as she warmed up, failure to shift. No indication on thermostat. Mine cost $134.00. Good luck! rosie

I got my 92 about 3 years ago with 220,000 miles on it. I now have almost 255,000 and it is running like a champ. I did the things ToysRme is suggesting (replaced the radiator, dogbone, flushed all fluids and had the A/C recharged) I have since had to get new tires. If you maintain it, it will run! I love mine. rosie

I almost put in a new tranny with these symptoms. Fortunately for me, a radiator solved the problem totally. No problem since. Three mechanics looked at the car and condemned the trans. None saw the problem with the radiator. (except the trans guy I took it to here in Portland) As explained to me, these are linked somehow. The system ,when overheated, begins to protect the other components. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it! rosie

Mine was due to a wiring harness that had corroded. It still goes on sometimes and I just jiggle the harness near where the CD changer goes and it goes off...until next time. Seems to happen when it comes in contact with something in the trunk. rosie

If I'm guessing correctly, this is the red icon with the car with "rays" coming out the back, right? If I open my trunk and move the wires where the CD player is supposed to be (mine isn't there anymore) this stops. If an umbrella in the trunk or anything else in there contacts these wires, it turns this light on on the dash. That's all it takes for me to turn that light off. Rosie

I got my ES300 (92) in 2002 after my BIL thought the tranny was done for. I towed it for $150.00 from Weiser ID and put a $134.00 radiator in it. No tranny problems at all! I have since done additional maintenance and detailing. CD changer went south years ago. Cigarette lighter not working. That's the sum total of the problems. It now has 255,000 miles on it and shows no signs of giving up the ghost. Drives like a new car! (He maintained it and put a lot of money into it the year before he gave it to me) We just put new tires on it. The body and interior are in excellent consition. Color: garnet pearl with blcak interior. rosie

I have a 92 ES300 and when I got it, it had a broken seam on the driver's seat. the rest of the upholstry was in perfect condition but had not been cleaned or conditioned since new. The driver's seat also had some cracking that showed as brown. I had the rip sewn up by a pro, then cleaned and conditioned the rest of the leather with Lexol produucts. To "erase" the cracks, I took a black sharpie and colored the cracks black to match the upholstry. The cracks are not many or seriously ripped and now they are not visible, either! I suspect this will only work if the leather is black! ;) but, it does work. rosie I have a 92 ES300 and when I got it, it had a broken seam on the driver's seat. the rest of the upholstry was in perfect condition but had not been cleaned or conditioned since new. The driver's seat also had some cracking that showed as brown. I had the rip sewn up by a pro, then cleaned and conditioned the rest of the leather with Lexol produucts. To "erase" the cracks, I took a black sharpie and colored the cracks black to match the upholstry. The cracks are not many or seriously ripped and now they are not visible, either! I suspect this will only work if the leather is black! ;) But, it does work. rosie

I don't know about the bumper but check with your insurance carrier. You may be covered (comprehensive?) and the insurance people will go after the cyclist to recover if this was an adult with homeowner's or auto insurance of their own. Worth looking into. rosie

My mechanic charged me $39.00. rosie

My brother in law gave me his 92 300ES at 225,000 miles because he thought the tranny was kaput. Turns out, it was the radiator ($134.00) The car now has around 240,000 miles on it. I switched to synthetic and had no problems at all. No leaks, nothing. Now, my brother in law is a lawyer and meticulously had the dealer maintain this car. I have all service records. So, I don't know what to tell ya, but that's my story and I'm stickin' to it :whistles: rosie

Why not just keep ithe ES? My ES300 just turned over 253,000 and runs perfectly. :) rosie

We bought Falkens all around ( I love my husband!) This improved things so much! The ride is totally better, quieter and smoother. WOW!!!! He had been thinking the springs were gibbled, but no sign of that at all. Needed an alignment, of course. We will see how they wear but they are 1000X's better than those AT's. Glad to dump those. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU FOR YOUR INPUT. I REALLY APPRECIATE IT, GENTLEMEN. rosie

I've noticed a slightly softer ride with my Goodyear TT's (H speed rated) over my previous Toyo Proxes TPT's (V rated)......I prefer the H personally as I don't notice a huge difference in handling (the ES is no sports sedan no matter what tires you install to begin with). I completely get that (Es is no sports sedan) My question has more to do with the materials used and resistance to breakdown at lower temperatures. Something must account for that. Softer ride sells me. The aquatreads I have now suck. So, I am going for the Falken H's. Thanks for the input everyone. I would certainly be investing in higher end tires if the car didn't have such high mileage already and the car was newer. If I need another set before she dies, I am no further behind ($$-wise) with getting two sets of Falkens rather than one of the Michies. off to Sears! rosie

Correction Army, the 60 series & higher (65 etc) are good for 60k miles.......the 55 & lower (50 etc....which is considered somewhat 'lower profile' at least) series are only good for 30k miles. ;) Thanks for the note. I understand (because I read through the Faq) that V and H are the speed rating and have little, if any, actual bearing on the quality of the tire (I never drive 130 or 150 miles per hour!) Having said that, do YOU guys find any benefit to buying a higher speed rated tire (V) vs the lower one (H)? rosie

I think my mechanic took the molding off the interior between front and back to access something. I do not think he removed a fender. I could be wrong but he forgot to replace a small piece and that is why I think so....... rosie

Army, Please clarify for me which ones are the "50 series." I do not see that on any description of the tires. thanks, R

Ask for SEAN at Ger-Brock Performance (on Killingsworth) in Portland Oregon. Can't help on the message thing. rosie

Due to a nail, we are assessing whether new tires all around are in order. At 253,000 miles (on the car, not the tires!), I am not looking for investment tires and these Falkens are easily affordable. Sears even matches the Discount Tire price, which makes them marginally cheaper at Sears, go figure. The Goodyear Aquatreads we now have are a bad ride and I won't be sorry to replace them. Trouble from the word "GO." So, are the V series worth the additional cost or do the H series do just as well? opinions? Thanks in advance. rosie I can concur with LexusFreak...Falkens are a good bet, and an easily affordable alternative thats 99% as good as the other tires. I dont know how they compare to a tire like the Michelin MXV4, but considering the MXV's are over $150 a tire, i really dont care. I have had 2 sets of Falkens now...and i will never own another tire on a passenger car/sport compact ever again. my .02 worth. So, I have been looking at opinions posted around the web and find many comments about these wearing out fast. Like 8 months! And noisy. Can this be true? This is exactly what I don't want in a tire. And, the H vs the V rating? Worth the extra .02? thanks, rosie

I had EXACTLY the same problem with my 92 ES last summer. We tried everything: locksmith, Lexus dealer (estimate: $800 to diagnose!) Finally took it to my mechanic, Sean the wonderful mechanic, and he fixed it with a used locking mechanism from a bone yard without damaging to the door (something no one else could figure out how to do) I don't know how he got the door off but if you want to email me I will give you his phone number and you can ask him. Total cost for repair: $122.00 rosie

Due to a nail, we are assessing whether new tires all around are in order. At 253,000 miles (on the car, not the tires!), I am not looking for investment tires and these Falkens are easily affordable. Sears even matches the Discount Tire price, which makes them marginally cheaper at Sears, go figure. The Goodyear Aquatreads we now have are a bad ride and I won't be sorry to replace them. Trouble from the word "GO." So, are the V series worth the additional cost or do the H series do just as well? opinions? Thanks in advance. rosie

Is my old Lexus just bolts in a bucket? Should I fix it or give up and chuck it? I ask you fine gents For your 2 cents I fix it and decide NOT to huck it! rosie

Hello Everyone!! I have a 93 es300 with 183,000 on her and had some issues took her to a shop they wanted me to pay them total 650.00 for a tune up. I said like heck!! I did the tune up myself...I didn't need everything they said I needed either. There were 2 plugs that were a PAIN in the A** but hey she is purring like a kitten once again with 183,000 :-) Lexi93: If you are in Portland, I can recommend an A-1 mechanic in NoPo. rosie

I don't love it. Looks like every other jellybean on the road.

My 1992 Es300 now has 252,650 miles on it. No leaks, no problems (no CD changer). Runs like new. Looks great, too. Interior in exceptional condition. rosie