Bykfixer

Dualing

https://cardiagn.com/ Hope this helps.

Maybe this will help. https://askinglot.com/what-is-the-afs-light-on-a-lexus

jd, this one is more of a forum time has forgotten, but not in a bad way in my view. Yeah, unfortunately it is more about "why is my car broke" than "boy I sure love my new leather seats" anymore. But so are most other car forums it seems. It's kinda strange how it took me longer to register and join here than it often does to find the answer to many issues folks are having. So fifteen seconds of searching, and typing a few words or sharing a you-tube later and the world thinks "gee, those folks over at Lexus Owners Club are terrific"…… Yet here the traffic that does occur has a smooth flow without all of the shouting and drama that often takes place in some forums catered to super-fast-go Lexi' vehicles. Lots of tinkerers here anymore, thinkers I'd say. People who enjoy lending some advice on why the car goes "clunk" each time it hits a bump or why ole bessy don't shift like she used to 20 years ago. I came here looking to learn what is likely going to go wrong with my 04 GS300 with 250k miles in the future and try to share some know how of things I have learned over the years. I enjoy the fixer aspect since I'm one of those still trying to figure how to program a VCR (video cassette recorder to those under 25 years old). I went from twisting a distributor and screws on a carberator for boost to my car to wactching son plug a module to his car and typing some key strokes to get gain on his. We'd love to read about your know how.

Sounds like a fun car when done. Supra forums would be a good place to look for info on tuning. That's about all they do over there. Tune, tune, tune, boost, boost, boost.

Lit accessory points use a bulb that is separate from the current that flows to the point of contact, so even though it may be lit up the circuit that feeds the accessory point to power a charger or cigarette lighter may not work. Check fuses for that one. The other issue may be the battery in the key fob is weak. Toyota made lock actuators sometimes seem to have a mind of their own. Or it could be one of the ECU's is going bad.

I lived near a tank farm in Greensboro NC for a time and each day Exxon, Shell, Texaco, Amoco, etc trucks all filled from the same gasoline tank day after day. I could not believe my eyes. It was like that time I found out santa clause was actually not real. It's when the truck places the fuel into the tank at the filling station where the so-called magic begins. The specific product is mixed in there. I do not know how it is done but there are brands of gasoline I get better fuel economy using. Not a lot but 15-20 miles extra a tank full. I prefer 93 octane in my car but if 91 is all there is so be it.

https://www.junkyardpartslocator.com/States.aspx This may help

You're welcome welcome. There's an echo in here ere ere…

Yes

https://youtu.be/ghLwf8Jqy1k Here's how.

Weather Tech makes good covers. Now if you want it to look all custom-like check out cover craft.

Sid

What other items besides an oil change does a 60k service include? My truck for example reccomends tire rotation at 60, but not 50 since it reccomends that at 15k intervals. It also reccomends tranny fluid change at 60k based on every 30k. Neither one I'd opt for based on the truck sitting around but……yeah get rid of that motor oil since it may be loaded with condensation from warming and cooling. And I'd have them check my battery out. But some places include a battery check with an oil change/service.

Good info, thanks. Way to hang in there. 👍

Toyota auto tranny shifting solenoids quit working properly sometimes. That is a device that dictates when the transmission changes gears. It's not uncommon for those to go bad after a while. If it were solenoids you'd probably have a check engine light lit though. When you turn on the ignition confirm that the CEL lights up along with the other stuff. Could be your filter is clogged. If your tranny fluid is a dark brown or darker that's a sign of the fluid over heating. Could be you just need a fluid and filter change.

I'd be so stoked if my car could look that bad someday. Nicely done and a great write up. Reference material for folks with black (or other dark color) painted cars.

Try putting a bottle of system cleaner like BG or Sea Foam as it may be as simple as the ethanol residue has built up in the fuel induction system.

Look uo universal tow mirrors at carid. com for choices.

I had a Chevy truck that did that. It was the ground wire to the battery. There was a wee bit of naked wires at the battery terminal that got just enough corrosion on them to cause occasional issues. I snipped off the end of the ground wire, added an aftermarket terminal and wrapped any exposed wire with electrical tape. Later I removed the battery and hit the electrical tape with a heat gun like you would shrink wrap in order to make sure it was weather tight and never had that problem again. Never have something like a heat gun or fire near your battery to prevent "BOOM". Hopefully yours is something simple like that and not the ECU. But over time some of the solders at connect points of the ECU have expanded and contract enough times where a thing called fatigue resistance causes the solder to break. Think about bending a metal coat hanger over and over until it breaks. That's fatigue resistance and solders do not "bend" anywhere near as many times as a coat hanger would before it breaks. Best regards.

I cannot for the life of me understand why the lump would be in the middle when it would seem if there are any lumps they should be on the sides to prevent butt groove. Perhaps there is a padding that is meant to spread the load evenly like a pillow top mattress does, but like many pillow top mattresses some areas seem to sag and end up causing discomfort for some. Best of luck ladies. Sheesh.

The ole clear coat fail dilema. Trying to cover is a waste of time. There used to be a product sold at Pep Boys and O'Reilly stores called TR3. They may still sell it. It's a product first sold in the 1980's to restore a dull finish. It has a chemical that literally melts into the clear coat and removes it a little at a time. It may take 5 or 6 applications to get that failed clear coat looking good but it can do it. I had a red Honda Prelude that looked pink from clear coat oxidation and had hundreds of blemishes that looked like snowflakes in the clear coat. TR3 applied and buffed off made the clear coat look pretty good. No yard stick shine like when new but the car looked red again. I applied it, buffed it off by hand a few minutes later and buffed it by hand the next day. Repeat as necessary. It took about 5 days total of apply, remove, buff the next day and repeat. But it sure made that clear coat look great. Apply a good wax every season and it'll stay looking pretty good. There's a big ole decal across the top that says "not to be used on clear coat". The best long term, low maintenance solution is wet sand the bad clear coat and reapply, but that too will come back off if not maintained. Cars are clear coated these days in order to stay shiney with just washing it. Used to be pre-clear coat days you had to apply rubbing compound then wax to get dull paint looking shiney. It's why the paint on old cars sitting around look like the paint was never shiney to start with after it was washed. Clear coat solved that issue, but it tends to fail at times.

Your car has probably gone into limp mode. With the car idling check the transmission fluid level. It could be low on that. It could be a clogged filter in the transmission.

A long time ago my company issued me a Chevy S10 that had 6,000 miles on it. It used 2-3 quarts in a 3 hour journey when driving on the interstate due to rings not seating properly. I needed that truck to get to and from my home each weekend. I bought the cheapest 10w50 high mileage oil Wal Mart sold at the time by the case. After a few weeks it used less and less oil. I did not change the oil or filter for 50,000 miles. At around 45,000 it had stopped using any oil. At 125,000 miles it ran like new and did not burn a drop of oil. I would never reccomend anybody ever do that but my point is the Toyota made engine is probably fine. But if you choose to buy it use a synthetic blend of high mileage oil, not pure synthetic. The high mileage oil has additives that help prevent worn out piston rings and valve seals from leaking. Me, personally I'd pass on that one. Bottom line here; if homey didn't even change the engine oil, he probably didn't maintain brakes, change coolant, and certainly not the timing belt. Last thing you want is a great looking car all broken down in your driveway. To add: the reason oil manufacturers reccomend mileage or time intervals is not to sell more oil. The interval is reccomended due to condensation building up in the crank case from heating and cooling. If dude drove it 5 days a week that would mean a heating and cooling engine at least twice each day. Many do not realize this but you can check the oil filler cap for a milky substance. If that is present the crank case has had water in it for a while. Smell the dipstick for gasoline smell to determine if that has damaged piston rings and intake valves. Done.

Then go to a junk yard and buy replacements