Dean2

Simple jib to fix. Most lexus the freeze plug is held on by two small bolts. Remove them, take the cover off and clean it up. Put is back on with a silicone bead on it. You will need to drain coolant amd put it back in, or replace it if it is due. Only use the proper Toyota long life antifreeze.

I would never undercoat a 3 year old car and to be honest, I would never undercoat a new car in high salt areas. All that does is trap anything that is already there and anything that gets in behind the undercoating. I would get it well cleaned underneath then have it Crown or RustCheck oil protected. We see a lot of salt up here just like you do in Ontario, those two are consistently the best at slowing down corrosion.

This thread should help a lot. You want to connect to the battery or the jump posts, preferably NOT in the fuse box.

You aren't leaking enough for it to show on the dipstick. As far as anything else wrong, have the dealer go over the car when it is in. At minimum, scan for codes. Pretty hard to remote diagnose with no codes or symptoms to work with. Best of luck.

Leaking valve covers will allow oil onto hot engine parts or the exhaust manifold, which will create a burned oil smell. If the oil is getting hot enough to smell then yes you do need to fix that right away. It doesn't take much of an oil leak to create the smell and a problem. There is a very real possibility of an engine fire if the oil leak gets any bigger. A plugged up PCV Valve can also cause issues and create a burned oil smell. As far as quoted price, that is about an hour and a half labour and parts, so seems pretty reasonable to me.

Does this change when you put it in sport mode which firms up the suspension and steering?

Your security system has either activated or gone defective. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for a few hours, measure the voltage in the battery. It should read min 12.4 normal fully charged battery is 12.7. If it is below 12.5 put a charger on it and make sure it is fully charged. A defective or flat battery can cause this issue with the security system too. Then hook it back up. If that doesn'tclear the fault, get a code reader and see what codes are stored. Once you have that you can work from there.

It would be a lot faster and easier to call the dealership and a couple of shops and get a quote. Might take a whole 10 minutes, and you will have something current and accurate. Make sure whoever does it knows how to properly do this. It isn't as simple as just drain and fill, far from it actually.

You got a decent discount off msrp but the dealer is NOT losing any money on this deal. I get liking new but a one year old car with 5000 miles sells for at least 20,000 less a 2 year old with 10 to 15000 sellss 30 to 40,000 less. Luxury cars depreciate way faster than regular cars. To me a one or 2 year old certified used with factory warranty is what I call a real good deal.

If you don't drive the car for long periods put a battery tender on it. The battery will last many more years. What kills batteries fast is high heat like Texas and Arizona. Here in Alberta i have had betteries last ten years. Costco up here warranties batteries for 100 months. When I change batteries I always use Costco. Never had any issues using their batteries in any vehicle including my various Lexus and Toyotas. The +400 bucks the dealer wants for a battery, plus install, doesn’t make sense to me when I can buy the same thing for 150 bucks.

Pull the codes that were set by the check engine light. Yours being a 95 has the OBDII port which makes reading codes easier. You can buy Bluetooth readers that hook up to your phone, or a standalone reader, both are about 25 to 60 bucks on amazon. You can also get it read at places like Pep Boys but it is much handier to have your own reader. This is the one I use. A littel more expensive but I like the diagnostic program that comes with it. https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=9OYDDGAJIFPH&keywords=obd2+mx+plus&qid=1708191243&sprefix=obd2+mx%2B%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-5 These guys were good enough to post the procedure. How to Read & Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes 1990-1994 Lexus LS400 By LexLS.com Before doing anything read my disclaimer & safety info. Notes Check engine light on? O/D OFF light blink periodicly? This tutorial will show you how to read the codes for the engine, transmission, airbag, ABS and TRAC systems and how to clear them. Checking for any codes is the first step is diagnosing problems and so everyone should know how to do this. It's simple and will only take you a few minutes. Please do not contact me regarding a specific code you have. The only thing I can tell you is to follow the diagnostic procedure in the repair manual, or you can search on the forums listed on the links page. If you have a 1990-1994 LS then you have an OBDI system (On-board diagnostics I). This system is what I will cover here. If you have a 1995 LS on up then you have an OBDII system. Reading codes from these systems requires you to use an OBDII code reader. They can provide many more codes and this makes diagnosis easier. All you need to do is plug the scan tool into the diagnostic port and it displays any codes. >>> LexLS is supported by site vistors. When you buy through Amazon links on my site, I may earn an affiliate commission, at no additional cost to you.<<< Tools Needed: Short piece of wire (90-94 LS's) OBDII code reader (95+ LS's) http://www.lexls.com/images/codes/DSC_1417.jpg 1) In order to read the code the battery must be 11v or higher, throttle valve fully closed, transmission in neutral position, and AC turned off. For checking transmission codes the OD switch must in on (pushed in). Connect terminals Te1 and E1 by placing a short piece of wire in the TDCL diagnostic port under the steering wheel. You can also connect these terminals using the check connector located in the engine bay. For engine and transmission codes you place the jumper wire in Te1 and E1. For air bag codes, ABS and TRAC codes, you place the jumper wire in Tc and E1. 2) Turn the ignition switch on. The diagnostic code is read by counting the number of blinks on the appropriate light. For engine codes, you count the blinks on the check engine light. For transmission codes, you count the blinks on the "O/D OFF" light. For airbag codes, you count the blinks on the "airbag" light. For ABS codes, you count the blinks on the "ANTILOCK" light. For TRAC codes, you count the blinks on the "TRAC" light. The codes are all two digits, the first digit is output first, it will pause 1.5 seconds and then output the second digit outputs. Multiple codes can be output. In this case the lowest numbered code is output first followed by a 2.5 second pause between other higher numbered codes in increasing numerical order. Once all stored codes have been output there will be a 4.5 second pause and then the codes repeat. If there are no codes stored then the light will blink continuously, every .25 second. I know this sounds a little confusing but it's very simple once you do it or see an example yourself.... Click here to see a video of engine code 71 (2.5 MB), single code output. Click here to see a video of transmission codes 63 & 67 (2.9 MB), multiple codes output. http://www.lexls.com/images/codes/DSCF0743.jpg 3) Once repairs have been made, clear all stored codes by removing the 20 amp EFI fuse shown above for 10 seconds or more with the ignition switch off. You can also clear codes by removing the negative lead on the battery for the same amount of time, but you'll lose all your clock, radio, and memory settings. After you've cleared the codes go for a road test. If the codes reappear it means you haven't fixed the problem. Note: airbag code 41 cannot be cleared using this method, here's how to clear it. ABS & TRAC codes are cleared by keeping the jumper wire in Tc and E1 and then pressing the brake pedal 8 or more times within 3 seconds. Engine OBDI Diagnostic Codes The list below will tell you where the problem lies but will not go into diagnosis. Please consult your repair manual for in depth diagnosis, testing and troubleshooting. 12 - RPM signal no. 1 13 - RPM signal no. 2 14 - Ignition no. 1 signal 15 - Ignition no. 2 signal 16 - ECT control signal 17 - No. 1 cam position sensor signal 18 - No. 2 cam position sensor signal 21 - Main oxygen sensor signal (on left bank) 22 - Water temp sensor signal 24 - Intake air temp. sensor signal 25 - Air-fuel ratio lean malfunction 26 - Air-fuel ratio rich malfunction 27 - Sub-oxygen sensor signal (on left bank) 28 - Main oxygen sensor signal (on right bank) 29 - Sub-oxygen sensor signal (on right bank) 31 - Air flow meter signal 35 - HAC sensor signal 41 - Throttle position sensor signal 43 - Starter signal 47 - Sub-throttle position sensor signal 51 - Switch condition signal 52 - No. 1 knock sensor signal 53 - Knock control signal 55 - No. 2 knock sensor signal 71 - EGR system malfunction Transmission OBDI Diagnostic Codes 42 - No. 1 speed sensor signal malfunction 46 - Open or short circuit in no. 4 solenoid valve 61 - No. 2 speed sensor signal malfunction 62 - Open or short circuit in no. 1 solenoid valve 63 - Open or short circuit in no. 2 solenoid valve 64 - Open or short circuit in no. 3 solenoid valve 67 - OD direct clutch speed sensor signal malfunction 68 - Short circuit in kick-down switch Air Bag OBDI Diagnostic Codes 11 - Short in squib circuit or front airbag sensor circuit (to ground) 12 - Short in squib circuit or front airbag sensor circuit (to +B) 13 - Short in squib circuit (between D+ wire harness and D- wire harness) 14 - Open in squib circuit 15 - Open in front airbag sensor sensor circuit 22 - Airbag warning light system 31 - Center airbag sensor assembly malfunction 41 - Malfunction stored in memory ABS OBDI Diagnostic Codes 11 - Open circuit in ABS solenoid relay circuit 12 - Short circuit in ABS solenoid relay circuit 13 - Open circuit in pump motor relay circuit 14 - Short circuit in pump motor relay circuit 21 - Open or short circuit in 3-position solenoid circuit for front right wheel 22 - Open or short circuit in 3-position solenoid circuit for front left wheel 23 - Open or short circuit in 3-position solenoid circuit for rear right wheel 24 - Open or short circuit in 3-position solenoid circuit for rear left wheel 31 - Front right wheel speed sensor signal malfunction 32 - Front left wheel speed sensor signal malfunction 33 - Rear right wheel speed sensor signal malfunction 34 - Rear left wheel speed sensor signal malfunction 35 - Open circuit in front left or rear right speed sensor circuit 36 - Open circuit in front right or rear left speed sensor circuit 37 - Faulty front speed sensor rotor 41 - Low battery voltage or abnormally high battery voltage 43 - Malfunction in TRAC control system 51 - Pump motor is locked, Open in pump motor ground Always ON - Malfunction in ECU TRAC OBDI Diagnostic Codes 11 - Open in TRAC brake main relay circuit 12 - Short in TRAC brake main relay circuit 13 - Open in TRAC throttle relay circuit 14 - Short in TRAC throttle relay circuit 15 - Electric supply to TRAC motor for a long time (fluid leakage) 16 - Open circuit in pressure switch circuit 17 - Pressure switch remains OFF 19 - TRAC motor ON and OFF operation is higher than a predetermined number of times (accumulator pressure leakage) 21 - Open or short in master cylinder cut solenoid valve circuit 22 - Open or short in accumulator cut solenoid valve circuit 23 - Open or short in reservoir cut solenoid valve circuit 24 - Open or short in sub-throttle actuator circuit 25 - Step motor does not move to a position decided by ECU 26 - Sub-throttle valve does not move even when the sub-throttle valve is controlled to fully open position by ECU 27 - When power supply to step motor is stopped, sub-throttle valve does not reach its fully-open position 44 - During TRAC control, NE signals are not input to the ECU 45 - When idle switch is ON, main throttle position sensor signal is 1.5V or higher 46 - Main throttle position sensor signal is 4.3V or higher, or main throttle position sensor signal is 0.2V or lower when idle switch is OFF 47 - When idle switch is ON, sub-throttle position sensor signal is 1.45V or higher 48 - Sub-throttle position sensor signal is 4.3V or higher, or sub-throttle position sensor signal is 0.2V or lower when idle switch is OFF 49 - Open or short in engine communication circuit 51 - Problem in engine control system 52 - Brake fluid level warning switch ON 54 - Open in TRAC motor relay circuit 55 - Short in TRAC motor relay circuit 56 - TRAC pump motor locked Always ON - Malfunction in ECU

That is precisely why I suggested you connect the quick connect leads. Then you don't have any messing around with Alligator clips nor any issues with closing the hood. Mount the red lead to the under hood jump terminal, mount the black to any body mounted bolt.Glad the trickle charger worked though.

My suggestion, get it towed to a good Lexus shop and have them fix this. Someone that actually knows what they are doing will have no problems getting it organised. Based on your post, you do not have adequate skills for this job and if you get it wrong you are going to ruin your motor completely. It will make the tow bill and repair cost seem like chump change.

Go get some rims with the proper diameter and offset. Moving wheels outboard puts tremendous stress on your bearings, linkages and the drive system. You are going to make yourself a lot of reliability problems if you do this.

Change your fuel filter and throw in a can of injectors cleaner like seafoam. Running the tank dry sucks all the crud off the bottom into the filter and fuel system. The bogging and loss of power is very likely a lack of fuel flow. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/fuelfilter.html

Do the remove all codes for all buttons on your homelink. Then start the programing over. I had to do that on the used car I just bought, 2015 LS. It would not let me just overwrite previously pprogamed buttones the first owner had set. The other issue to be aware of is 2006, like my GS430, will not pair to many modern rolling code door openers without the proper interface module installed in the car. Just saw UKPete post. He is correct about the link, and what I was referring to above.

It usually hangs off of the motor head unit of the door opener in the garage. It attaches to the circuit board.

Before throwing a new alternator at it, put a charger on the battery and bring it up to full charge. Disconnect battery charger, after 30 minutes you should read between 12.7 and 12.8 volts. If it reads lower than that, your new battery is defective, which happens more than you think. If voltage is correct check to see if dash etc is now working properly. If it isnt then your problem is not battery or voltage. Check your fuses. Next step, to verify alternator is good, start car and measure voltage at the battery terminals. Should be in the range of 13.5 to 14.6. If it is you alternator is charging fine. See if dash etc is still working if it worked before you started the car.

Well guess you now know better. Hopefully it is still apart so it is easy to swap out the tensioner. All the best.

New belt you ahould be doing new tensioner and a new water pump. Very small cost once you already have everything opened up. I always buy mine as an all inclusive kit. You can get OEM from Rock Auto for a very good price.

Scratches do not appear without a cause. Something or someone is causing the damage either at home or at work. Put a hidden camera watching the car or leave your dash cam running and I will bet you find out what it is.

Strictly your choice but i have no idea how the Panasonics venting could differ from any other battery. There is a difference in venting between lead acid and AGM, as in the AGM put out less gas by a lot, but by make of battery, all lead acid vent the same and all AGM vent the same. I would imagine your hybrid has an AGM starting battery as do most vehicles that have the battery not in the engine compartment. Once you complete your research I would love to hear what the actual difference is, or isn't. Best of luck.

If you can find used cats a good muffler shop can easily install them. Same is true of new ones, you can find new for 120 to 150 a pop and have muffler shop install them. Other option, are you somewhere that you can delete the catalytic converters. Would still need to fix the sensores so it runs right and gets good fuel mileage but saves the cost of cats. I would never scrap a good car, let alone one with sentimental value, for 6 or 700 bucks in repairs.

Alternator may charge fine when the vehicle is running, but may still have a bad diode. Thebad diode will allow the battery to go flat when parked and can also cause the Battery light to be on. To check the Diode, set your multimeter to AC voltage on the lowest available scale. If you measure ANY AC voltage across the positive and negative terminal, the Diode is done. Most Alternators do not have replaceable Diodes so you will need a whole new Alternator.

Before there were electric read outs, the gauge showed empty when there was still at least 15% of capacity left. It is NOT deception, then or now, it is done that way on purpose so the general motoring public, most of whom are not very well versed in how vehicles work, don't run out of fuel. More than 80% would never twig to the fact they only take 12 or 13 gallons on empty because most have no idea what their actual tank capacity is. Ask 20 guys how to tell from the dash which side the fuel filler is on, might be 2 that can answer that.