Exhaustgases

It could be arc over in a cap or even the wires, if wires are new it shouldn't be doing that but that depends on the quality of them. It could also be a valve lash deal too.

Check the operation of the original, resistance .

I'd like to know how much to remove the tint from the gen 1? I bet if they had to buy a OEM Toyota rear window they'd all think real hard about tinting it.

This was posted in another thread on here. It should help explain your problem. And if this is what you are referring to then either that ign fuse is not contacting good or the ignition switch is not contacting good. Since you said it only says 3.5 volts. Now check on the ignition side of the ign fuse plug with the ignition turned on of course. If you get 3.5 there then its either the wire or how it connects to the fuse plug or to the ign switch or the ign switch itself. Or the fuse feeding the ign switch or the wire and or connections. Some place where I just talked about is the problem. But this maybe for a 90 to 92 I don't think 93 is too much different.

There was a 90 that was in Ca that a dealer had with 3000 or so miles on it, I think its sold now. They had a top price on it at first but then price went down. I don't remember the color but it was very base with no options.

If its perfect body and paint, take care of it. All the other stuff is the easy fix. It will never have a good factory paint job again.

Some folks have taken them apart and cleaned them. I would not plug that large hole with a bolt. A small plate and home made gasket would be a better option, and not introduce aluminum chips into the inlet system.

The meter is reading the resistance of the probe wires. On some models as soon as its turned on or to the resistance scale you touch the probes and it should auto zero set. But on some its not so. ACV ? Idle Air Control ? An EGR is a good susceptible source of a vacuum leak and rough idling. Evap can as well.

I hope it prints the diagram. Okay, do you get volts at the upper right hand terminal of the EFI relay when the ignition switch is on? If yes then do you get volts a B+ ? If yes then do you get volts at the bottom right terminal of the fuel pump relay? If yes then do you get volts at the left side of the fuel pump? Do this test and report back. Oh and this is with the jumper in the diagnostic port.

The fusible link is a misleading term for us old car people. In the old days it was a feed wire. On these cars it is an actual fuse and its in the fuse box near the battery, its one of the big guys there and when you get the cover off flip it over and look inside there is a chart to tell you what does what. There are also fuses under the dash above the left hand drivers kick panel near the parking brake, I think there is one there for efi too I haven't looked in awhile and I've been working on non lexus projects lately. Yes according to the diagram you will get 12 v to the relay, can you see you have one terminal that gets v through those fuses? Then there is a terminal from the ignition switch I'm using memory here since I can't see it while typing this. I'll just quote it.

What happened to this one? I'd like to know how it all went.

Now you need to study the wire diagram that was posted here. See if you get power at all points that feed to the fuel pump. As you said you didn't get power at the pump. If you wish power up the pump, I'm sure that is not the problem. The power runs through that fuse, then the EFI relay so you need to check them. Even the ignition switch is suspect in the diagram, you have to check all connections for power back to the ignition switch starting from the pump. And that is with the jumper installed in the plug. I say first do you get 12 volts at that B+ with ignition on? If not next go to the EFI relay. If B+ has 12 volts go to fuel pump relay and check at its terminals.

There is a circuit opening relay, and forget the diagram right off. You need to do the jumper thing I suggested to get power to those pump wires. You will not get power there with the engine not running unless you do the jumper thing. "Gives a NOW code" so what is a now code? Don't need a reader for the codes on an obd1 system, you jumper some terms on the diagnostic plug. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html And it runs with some kinda fuel, so then you know for sure its a fuel problem then.

With the jumper wire did you get the normal blinking light? A broke timing belt could be sudden and not start. I would remove the LH side wire / distributor cover and check the belt. There are other relays to. I don't have a 94 book, I think the electrical is different than 92 in many areas. The fast crank could be a broke time belt too.

Check for good clean connections at the battery, even corrosion where the cable goes into the clamp, I had similar to your symptoms one time and it was the clamp to cable. Check the battery voltage when cranking. And when describing what happened, "no joy" doesn't mean much in technical terms to help figure out what the problem is. If fuel pressure is there I don't think you would hear the pump, you need to do a fuel pressure test. A quick thing is to jumper at the test port (the one on the engine) to check the fuel pump, terminals FP and +B with a paper clip not too skinny a one. The ignition needs to be on for it to work. This is for 90 to 92, I'm not sure how different the 94 is. I think the fuel pump relay for 94 is in the trunk?

At the motor connect a volt meter and when you switch it up look at what the meter says. If it is under the supply voltage there is a bad contact someplace.

Me too, but not any Sulzers etc. Did you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the ecu's? If not that can cause problems. So you did check for fuel pressure? And spark? There is an igniter test procedure on youtube. But if your swapping ecu's hot then you could be causing problems. Its not like the old Briggs points days. And your sure its spinning against compression. I would pull the LH cover and check the belt.

Was the battery disconnected when changing the ecu? The dash gauge deal is the cluster itself not the engine ecu. Yes can jump time and also mess up some valves too. Do what landar says and check compression too.

Just post in the main forum not one of these ones that is not on your topic. Maybe one of the moderators will fix this for you. You need to explain what is not happening with it not starting like you turn the key and nothing happens? Or you turn the key and try to start and nothing happens, or the engine does turn and will not start etc. One thing it can be is the security system can prevent it from starting. Bad battery connections, bad battery that sort of thing. We will need more information to help.

Window tint would be fine if it was an OEM laminated process, and not an added film. The more non OEM things done to a car, the less the resale value of the car.

Yeah some of the most difficult things to do on these and any car for that matter is interior stuff. It is so easy to break something and or goof it up.

He said he couldn't get it out of park, so guess he was looking for the lockout solenoid or ?

Yeah and hope they treat it nice, no scratching and bending body parts working on it.

And according to the numbers the same parts are used from 1990 up to 1997 as far as I know.