mikey00

Anyone else know anything about this additional cooler inside the radiator on a RX 300 or is this Lexus tech possibly confused with another model? I checked my 01 and don't see any trans lines going into the radiator. I also have both the 1999 and 2003 factory service manuals and the only cooler I see referenced is the one in the fender well.

I guess you deleted some info from your original post. I just re-read your original post from within code58's reply and saw your info about possibly topping off the wrong vessel which is now missing from your post. I bet that is what happened, as long as you are sure it is not oil and you are not consuming oil or seeing coolant in the oil.

The RX300 does not have a radiator mounted transmission cooler, unless you have some kind of aftermarket cooler. The factory trans cooler is mounted behind the right front fender well under the windshield fluid bottle. Use a flashlight to look through the louvers in the wheel well to see it. If you are finding trans fluid on the floor coming from this area this might be it. But this still doesn't explain trans fluid in the coolant. Are you sure it is trans fluid and not oil?

Whatever happened to testing your LED setup on your friend's RX? I really think you are trying to fix something that is not broke.

Just in case you want step by step directions complete with pics and part numbers, here it is: http://rx300how2.home.comcast.net/~rx300ho...ide_markers.htm

First I have ever heard of dropping the pan for extra fluid. There is second drain plug which sits vertically behind the trans pan drain plug on the front diff which gets about another 1/2 qt of trans fluid out. Could that be what you are referring to? Anyway, a flush is where they hook your trans up to a machine which does a complete fluid exchange. The process can use as much as 16 qts. even though your trans holds about 9 qts. A normal drain and fill (even with removing the pan) will only get about 1/2 of this. If I could do it all over again, I would have stuck with my drain and fills and added a pan drop with filter change and skipped the flush. Of course, there is no real proof that the flush did my trans in, but I highly suspect that it did.

Iron Toad has them. You just have to fill out their quote request page and they will email you back pretty quick. newlexusparts.com also has them for about 275.

My TB was done by Towne Toyota in Legdewood for about $330. ($399 minus coupon). I used James Toyota to get trans flush. They were the closest dealer I could find with a flush machine. Of course my trans failed shortly after that, so I wouldn't recommend a flush. In hindsight I wish I stuck with my 15K drain and fill schedule. Trans was fine then. I also had them do the plugs while I was there. I thought they did good work. My statement about Midas was a rather general one and if someone from James is there it might be a good place to have work done. I usually think of them as a exhaust, brakes, etc. kind of place.

There is no definitive answer on weather or not to do the wp with the timing belt. I didn't do the wp at 90K and have no plans on doing it at 180K. That was based on a conversation with a couple of Toyota techs. Others may differ. As a general statement, I don't know if I would trust Midas to do my timing belt. You may have an excellent mechanic there who knows Toyota and everything will be fine. But there have been a few problems reported on the forum after having a timing belt done at a local shop. You may want to consider James Toyota. They are in your area and have done some work for me in the past.

Just cosmetic, it gives the light a slight green tint. I used mine but if there is a next time I plan on getting rid of it.

I you are looking to save some $ go to etrailer.com and get a generic one for less than $50.

I just went through this. There are 4 from the top and 6 from the bottom. I suppose there is a way to get all 6 out from the bottom but it is not easy. I ended up just pulling the console so I could flip it over to easily remove the 6 from the bottom. The replacement bulb you need is Sylvania 2721 available at Autozone. Check here (and link within) for complete directions with pics: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=378885

Check with Lexuskid630. He has already swapped center console bulb for LED. See here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=51659

Why not just wire a test setup with your LED's ( or even just one) connected to a cigarette lighter plug. Try it in some friends cars , another RX would be best. If the problem still exists, there is no need to go troubleshooting your RX for a problem that doesn't exist. I suspect they are going to flicker wherever you put them. LED flickering in automotive use is a common problem. Some have solved the problem by leaving the bulb connected in parallel with the LED. This is the same concept as using the resistors.

You can program up to 10 keys (7 master and 3 valet). The long key shouldn't be a problem as it has worked for others. You need to verify that your master key is actually programmed as a master and not a valet key. The difference being that a master key will allow you to enter programming mode and a valet key (or a master programmed as a valet will not). Also you should be able to handle the programming yourself without any need for a black box. Try this first and post back. Your security light should be flashing as you car sits idle without a key near the ignition. If you insert a master key (without turning) the the light should go out immediately. If you insert a valet key the light will pause on for about 1 second then go out.

My gear selector console went dark. Anyone know how to get at the bulb?

First try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset everything. Sometimes, that is all it takes.

Can anyone with a 2000 verify for me that when you insert the key the security light continues flashing until the key is turned? On my 2001 the security light stops flashing as soon as the key is inserted and I am trying to help someone out who is having a key programming issue with a 2000. Thanks.

I don't know about a "hanging pad" but it does sound like you need a brake job. The high pitch squeel you hear that stops when you apply the brakes is the wear indicator on the rear pad. This is the noise it is designed to produce when your pads become worn. When you apply the brakes the indicator has solid contact with the rotor and stops squeeling. If your mechanic determined you need new rear rotors and front ones turned and pads all around, I am assuming he checked the pads and the rotor thickness to determine this. $500. is not a great price but it is a fair price. A brake job at a reputable shop is about $300 using aftermarket parts without new rotors. Now you add 2 Lexus rotors @ $81/each (discounted) plus shipping and your price is in the ballpark. Your mechanic is also using Lexus pads $71 (discounted) per axle plus shipping. If you ask your Lexus dealer for a quote for the same work my guess is $800. Now you could buy the Lexus parts for about $350 delivered. Then you still have to do the work plus taking the front rotors to a shop to have them turned. I really don't see any savings here unless you have a lot of time on your hands. Or you could use Autzone rotors and pads and get 4 new rotors and ceramic pads for about $200. Definetly some savings for the DIYer here.

What year is it? Once you add the price of the RX plus the cost of a new trans plus a new engine, you may find it cheaper and less painful to buy a working one. Usually a car needing a trans and engine also needs other items to bring it up to par. There is one bright spot, regarding the trans not shifting into overdrive. It is most likely not a trans problem. This is usually due to a check engine light on and the ECU putting the trans into safe mode not allowing it to shift into overdrive. Once the CEL is fixed the trans goes back to normal. Even if this is the case, unless that trans was replaced already, it will eventually fail. I don't know where that off the wall statement about poor maintenance causing all the failures came from.

As best as I can remember it's just a good coat of the black paint minus the clear. This was discussed quite a bit back when the RX 300s were new. A lot of people were complaining about the lousy free car wash they got whenever they went in for warranty work. It turned out the most of the complainers had black RXs. The Black without the clear certainly looks good but it is just more prone to swirl marks, streaks, water spots, etc.

"it's been many years since there was ANYTHING that was not clear coated" is a generalization that is close to 100% true. However, Lexus does not clear coat all it's blacks along with some of the other colors. That's how they get that Lexus deep black look. This was common knowledge a few years back and discussed quite often over at CL. Just Google "lexus black no clear coat". You should find more than enough to convince yourself.

Lets say you get it for 10K OTD, which is unlikely due to negotiation process. Then you spend 5K+ for body work and paint, so it now looks like the 15K RXs you are referring to. Why not just buy one of the 15K RXs, you are seeing. You will end up with a better car and none of the frustrations of having the work done. Now if it were 8K OTD, that would be a different story.

I do remember seeing 2002 RX transmission failures. I can't remember if it was here or over at CL but they do fail. I think you see the older ones failing more due to the higher mileage but the 02s will catch up. Also check NHTSA site for reported failures. Something else you may want to consider, Lexus Black RXs do not have clear coat on them, as do the other colors, and are very difficult to keep looking good. As long as you like a black car and don't mind working on it to keep it looking good, you will be happy. But if you are someone who prefers a white RX, this is just something to consider.

It sounds like your RX is trying to tell you the brake fluid is low. If you checked it and it is, in fact, not low it is most likely brake reservoir cap which contains the sensor switch. Just unplug the sensor switch. If the problem goes away order a new brake reservoir cap with switch assembly. About $100.