mehullica

It's part the entire engine harness. Are you sure it's not bolted down under the valve cover?

Common for sc 300's to get high voltage drop on the ground side. Check the voltage drop, if high replace the ground cable as it gets comprimised from oil changes, the oil filter drips on the ground cable during removal and over time damages the cable. SC400's have weak grounds to begin with, and weak alternator output at low rpms, no oil damage to cable on a sc400, just poor grounds, and swapping over a pulley from an LX470 alternator to the sc400 alternator helps improve the charging at low rpm's

Check your CIG fuse. It powers the A/C display

I once ate some birthday cake with purple frosting, later I had dropped a !Removed! in the toilet the same color as that car.

Similar engine. Different valve timing. Same basic constuction. It is an interference engine.

READ the work order you signed! It describes ALL checkes performed on the vehicle. You can't rotate tires on an IS 2wd, but they will take them off, check the brakes, balance wheels, basically check the whole car. Not to mention technicians are flat-rate paid people. They get paid when they are working on the car. If there's a problem, like leaking shock, oil leaks, coolant leaks, etc, they will find it. That's how they are paid. Not hourly paid jiffy lube people who could give a rats-!Removed! if there's an oil leak or if the tires are seperating. Not to mention, you are more likely to get things covered when you're out of warranty if you spend money at a dealership.

Email me@ kweps@sbcglobal.net

Use the 10 digit part number printed on the valve to find it.

I agree Lexus/Toyota got a bad wrap with "sludge". Any engine will do it.

That is probably one the the f-cking stupidest things I've heard of. Why not check the idle speed control motor in front of the intake? Clamp off the hose and if the idle doesn't change, it's not working! Why not repair the problem? Come on now. The idle-up valve is there for a reason, as is the idle speed control motor.

The 2002 Avalon has a 1MZ-FE engine, same as a 1999-2001 ES300.

The LX470 doesn't have plug wires.

No whiplash or major injuries? Chances are the body shop and insurance will buy a new frame, cut off the bent area on your frame and cut the same area off the new frame and weld it in. The amount of work to remove the body, powertrain, wiring, suspension, etc, and transfer to a new frame would be too much for an insurance company to cover. I've seen MANY insurance companies cover repairs this way.

The shift interlock gets power the the brake light switch. Is the brake light fuse/circuit good?

Send me a private message, I may be able to help you out on this problem.

Chances are it's not repairable. You need the driver side block. Take out the left kick panel that covers it. Then unbolt the sky blue color wire harness that bolts to it. Blow out the connector and block with compressed air and reassemble. During production of the block, small metal shavings got left inside and eventually will fall onto a circuit and short it out. Blowing out the block and connector might work, maybe not.

It should've been changed. It screws onto the pump

You need a new junction block. There was a TSIB for it years ago. The sound you are hearing is the ABS/TRAC buzzer due to a short in the junction block.

7.5 amp PANEL fuse

You can change the knock sensors and wire harness without removing the intake manifold. Remove the EGR valve, PCV hose and you can get you hand into the V area of the block. A 27mm socket and small rachet with a flex head and the job is done.

I've replaced a few transistors for low speed only operation. It's not really a bad job, remove the glove box and it easily replaced.

I tried to email you my email address for the vin# but your mailbox is full, private message me your vin # through this site and I'll check the dealer history.

Can I get the VIN #? I work at a dealer and would like to see what they have done.

It's called a Flat-Rate labor guide. The factory warranty labor pays the dealer a very low time to complete a repair. Almost no tech can beat the time the 1st time they do the job. Customer pay labor time is based on many different labor guides like Mitchell, Chilton. Their times are longer to do the same repair as the factory manuel. If the job pays 3.5 hours and the tech finishes in 3 hours he still gets paid 3.5 hours. If he takes 8.7 hours to finish the job he still gets paid 3.5 hours.

I've seen a few with a #5 knock and many others with a porous head around #5 spark plug.