mehullica

I have the VSC option.

Just buy the part and you can replace it yourself. pop off the black footrest and take out the kickpanel. A bunch of connectors and 3 10mm fastners. All you have to do after that is swap over 2 relays from the old junction block to the new one.

When I replaced my 2005 ES bumper I removed the two clips from each rear wheelwell splash shields. Remove the screw that holds the bumper to the body on each side. From inside the trunk remove the spare tire and both side trim panels of the trunk and the taillights. Remove the trunk striker trim cover, remove the nuts that hold the bumper to the body. Then the bumper will pop off.

Actually it was very easy for me. The body was not warped at all so everything lined up perfectly with the new bumper. I also work for a dealer so I'm used to removing body panels.

1993 never had a seperate remote. OEM is part of the key. Seperate remote will never work on a 1993 es300.

There is a switch attached to the back of the lock cylinder to detect manual unloking of the door. I bet it is broken or shorting out.

I bought a new bumper for mine after someone hit it. $212.00 Got it painted for $150.00. Put it on myself in under an hour. Easy to R & R.

Sounds like the junction block has a short. Check TSIB EL002-02

You could use a slide hammer with a hook on one end to pull it out. Snap-On makes adapters for their silde hammers that have a collet and various pieces that act like a nut to thread onto the pump and secured by the collet to the slide hammer. Once the snapring is off, couple good blows with the slide hammer and it'll come off.

Have the front lower ball joints been checked? Seem many make noise as you turn, in reverse or forward gears.

I'd check the ground side of the electrical. From the battery post to engine and body.

Let it burn oil, a boroscope would show you cylinder wall scoring due to broken rings. Rare. If anything the smoking is your valve stem seals or idle speed control valve for the p/s.

There are 2 bolts per side. One in the front and one in the rear.

The idle speed control motor under the throttlr body needs to be replaced. Carbon builld-up.

Tilt the glass and pop off the side trim garnish pieces that snap onto the sunroof glass. There is a trim piece that snaps into the aluminum rail, just slide it back and you'll see 2 TORX bolts. Close the glass and loosen the bolts and adjust the sunroof. Tighten and reassemble.

Retail for the valave is about $220-$240 at the dealer, you should shop around and always buy OEM.

I wouldn't do that. Your Nav. will tweak out as it no longer as a speed input to calculate distance from/ to destinations.

There has been a fix out for months. Replacing the fuel line from the fuel rail to the metal fuel line. TSIB EG005-05

Look at the sticket on the door jam. It will have the trans number along with the model code.

Yes an no. A majority of them leak straight down, all over the p/s pump and for onto the exhaust manifold. Looks almost like the front of the valve cover is leaking.

You can get them at the dealer.

All this test measures is turning torque. There should not be any lateral or axial free play in the ball joint. I would replace the ball joints.

I saw one this weekend with Lumar clear film for $1200.00 retail. It was the whole car almost. Both bumpers, mirrors, door handles, door sills, door edges.

Seen lots of cam seals leak on the VVT-I V8 engines. Even worse you have to remove the camshaft and VVT-I actuator to replace the seal.

There is a hose from the air cleaner box that connects to the CCV. (canister close valve). Rubber hose near the back of the air cleaner by the brake fluid reservoir. It connects to a metal tube. Is it attached? If not it will give you PO440,441,446