chimchim

See if gunk is blocking the "sight" of the ABS speed sensor. Also, see if the sensor somehow got knocked too far away from the hub. (I don't know spec, but if the other wheel is ok, compare the distances)

$300 bucks just for the disk? Geez... for previous owners, they should have a $100 upgrade where you turn in your old DVD. At $300, that makes me want to stick to my old one longer... so they get $0 from me.

This is a picture of my civic's brakes, but you can see the black pad I'm holding. On the flat side of the pad, you see black metal flush against it. This is the shim which (in this case) snaps onto the pad. Instructions said to add grease on top of the shim (and between the pad and shim) to reduce squeaking. BTW, check out my DIY changing a disc brake rotor and pads. It's for a civic, but when I change my RX330's, I'll make a DIY then.

Supposedly there's an available reflash from the dealer which fixes the hesitation problem. The next time I bring mine to the dealer, I will have this done. Anyone know the reference number.

Here's how I feel about the RX330 HIDs. Tell me if you guys agree. I like the design. I like the shape. I like the HID brightness. I hate the HID shades which block the normal headlight beams above a certain height so that you don't "blind the cars in front of you". Well, because of these shades, now you CAN'T SEE PAST ABOUT 40' IN FRONT OF THE CAR. Things in the road hide in the shadow of the shades and suddenly come into bright view when they get close enough to be illuminated by the HIDs. Even worse, try navigating a hilly road. That means on the down part of a short dip, the head lights may only illuminate as little as 20' in front of the car, leaving the rest in DARKNESS. In my 10 year old Honda with old regular headlights, I can see MORE distance because the non-HIDs are also NON-SHADED. Hey Lexus, RANGE is more important than INTENSITY OF ILLUMINATION. Solution: they should have made these shades a gradient of translucency, rather than the abrupt complete blockage of the light; to reduce the intensity of brightness in the "upper region" without making it completely dark.

Yeah but the problem was that it didn't catch my 19 psi tire. My routine check discovered it and as a response to MY routine checks I patched the tire. The only possibility is if the last rotation (which was done by a Lexus dealer) did not reset the the system.

Could the forward weight of the vehicle make a difference too? I noticed that Lexus designed in vents in the front wheel wells obviously for braking cooling. On braking, the FWD sure dives A LOT and seems to really struggle to stop. (Maybe I'm just so used to my 2700 lbs civic with sport suspension, sticky tires, and upgrade pads.) Anyways, I had the braking performance of this vehicle cuz I feel like it's going to do a forward somersault.

I'm having trouble locating a place here in Nor Cal that sells the Toyo's... How about the Bridgstone Dueler Alenza?

Yup. My other tires were about 29 psi, and the low tire was 19 psi; a 10 psi difference and the warning light did not go on.

Asking for tire recommendations under these driving conditions: - FWD RX330 - California weather - no snow - no off road - freeway/street commute vehicle year round - family vehicle driven by wife: want comfort and low noise - still safe - tread wear at least 40k miles - 235/55 R 18 (not sure what rating I want)

I'm pretty disappointed in the tire pressure monitoring system. It worked once to alert us that we got a nail in a tire once. I realize it will not tell you when you are just 2-3 psi low. However, we recently got a slow leak, and the tire worked it's way down to 19 psi (from 30 psi normal). If the system can't detect this, what's the point? I understand how it works: differential in speed between the tires. It is recalibrated every time you start the car; which means slow leaks are not detectable unless there is a threshold that says something is just wrong once the ration of rotation between tires exceeds a certain level.

Looks nice, especially for an iPod nut. I just ghetto it up with a tape adapter.

Yes, but new rims would cost about $2000. That's a lot of MPG to save up to recoup that cost. =) Well, I guess I could see the stock rims, so it wouldn't take so long to recoup.

We never use the roof rack. So how do you remove the crossbars? I'll just put them on on those rare trips that we actually do use the rack. (haven't yet)

Yeah, plugs are probably not ideal, but I've been using plugs to fix nail flats and just forgot about them till it was time to get new tires. While sure, they don't restore your tire to new condition/reliability, they also have never leaked on me or caused a blow out. So, they are a pretty good option.

Well, unfortunately, it's already in the $3 range for me. =( I'm a little surprised to see such a huge jump to 21.5 mpg from the synthetic oil and the tranny filter. I switched to synthetic too and I think it helped maybe +1mpg. Can you give more details on this tranny filter? I'm most interested in improving city mileage... which means weight reduction more than aerodynamics. I like pulling the spare idea, but being stranded with a flat does not sound appealing.

Back on topic, I have a RX330 and the loaner was a Highlander. I really didn't care.

By memory: my RX330 requires you open the tool compartments. Using the jack crank, locate at the back right part of the back most storage compartment. There is a slot you can insert the crank into and turn to lower the spare under the car.

This worked just find for my USA Cali 2004 RX330. Yeehah! Thanks!

Resolution: So I brought it to the dealer and with a little assertiveness they agreed to replace the nut for free (with a regular nut). I now run with no lock nuts in the fronts (2WD) and lock nuts in the rear. I'm hoping that if people want to steal rims, they want a full set.

For the 2004 RX330: "Press the menu button, then choose system option. Then press the top left of the screen, then the bottom left of the screen, then the top left again, then the bottom left again, then finally touch the bottom right of the screen. It will bring up a system menu. Choose the override button, then hit back." Although, I think you might have to HOLD the override button until it beeps/highlights.

Let me quote the Davis Group (maker of CarChip's) website: CarChip has been carefully designed and tested to comply with OBDII protocols J1850-41.6, J1850-10.4, ISO9141, KWP2000 (ISO14320), and CAN (ISO 11898), which are used on most cars and light trucks sold in the USA, model-year 1996 or later. However, some vehicle models are not in full compliance with these protocols. In addition, the computer control systems on a given vehicle may be malfunctioning or out of spec, as may be the sensors used by these systems.

I'm suspecting this was the real problem... the last person to touch our lug nuts was a Lexus dealer when they rotated the tires. No antisieze was on them.

2004 RX330

Not much. I'm NOT looking for generic parameter list or the generic "it should work with all 1996 OBD2 cars and later". I"M LOOKING FOR RX330 SPECIFIC INFO. To spell it out: - OBD2 only has a minimal set of parameters that must be supported and therefore not all optional parameters are necessarily included. THAT MEANS: there is a question as to WHICH PARAMETER DOES THE RX330 SUPPORT VIA THE OBD2 PORT. - Although all 1996+ vehicles are supposed to be OBD2 compliant, there have been issues with compatibility with some vehicles which were supposed to work. THAT MEANS that THERE IS ALWAYS A POTENTIAL FOR SOME INCOMPATIBILITIES WHICH CAN ONLY BE KNOWN BY SOMEONE ACTUALLY USING THE PRODUCT ON THE SPECIFIC VEHICLE IN QUESTION. - my third question was "do you like it?" Do I really have to spell this one out?