DEATH

What issues are you having with your brakes? Pulsation? Premature wear? Noise? If it's pulsation, I agree with aqualung. If your wheels are improperly torqued after a simple tire rotation, a pulsation is sure to follow. The fact that your dealer can't figure out why this is happening is scary. I would be questioning their ability to properly service your vehicle. I certainly would not get away with that answer and Lexus would be asking my manager what I am doing working on your car. P.S. DON'T use aftermarket brake parts.

That doesn't make any sense. The fuse would blow long before any wires could start to smoke unless you're using too high an amperage fuse. The only issues I've run across on the GX for blowing that fuse is from either of the lighted visors. After the first one, I've seen quite a few. Unplug each visor, one at a time, and see if the fuse continues to blow.

Are you touching the new bulb when you install it? That's a no-no!

Does it look anything like this? There are several different volumes; Repair Manuals, Electrical Wiring Diagrams, New Car Features, Collision Repair, TSB/TT, etc, etc. INTRINF.pdf

Default threshold is dependant upon where the sensors are initialized. See if this clears things up(or confuses you even more). Tire_Pressure_Warning_System-Co.pdf

Battery connection(s) is/are loose.

You're kidding, right?! Tell those morons to plug your door switch and/or door ECU back in! Hint: You need to remove the DOOR PANEL to get to it! If they charge you a dime, go to the manager and blow your stack. There's nothing wrong with your car that the kid working on it didn't create- Guarranteed

Drive it like ya' stole it! You won't break anything!

I appreciate the info. Would you be able to e-mail me a copy of the letter so that it is not public? Any idea roughly (labor wise) how long the repair should take? I don't think I'm supposed to do that. You'll be getting one soon enough as the parts become available. I don't imagine the repair is expected to take longer than an hour.

This should clear it up. L-SB-0188-09.pdf

Guys, seriously? A/F and oxygen sensors are entry level. Anyway, Bank1 refers to the side of the engine that contains cylinder1(in this case, left side, towards front of vehicle). Bank2 refers to the side of the engine that contains cylinder2(in this case, right side, towards rear of vehicle). I got you a section of Lexus repair manual for a 2001 ES300. Otherwise, the code is the same for most models/years. Don't over analyze it, though. This code means you need the sensor. Thanks for the reply. So this is not bank 2, sensor 1: Sorry dude, I got that backwards. Bank2 is towards the front, Bank1 is towards the rear.

Guys, seriously? A/F and oxygen sensors are entry level. Anyway, Bank1 refers to the side of the engine that contains cylinder1(in this case, left side, towards front of vehicle). Bank2 refers to the side of the engine that contains cylinder2(in this case, right side, towards rear of vehicle). I got you a section of Lexus repair manual for a 2001 ES300. Otherwise, the code is the same for most models/years. Don't over analyze it, though. This code means you need the sensor. CI__P1135_P1155_.pdf

Lexus Safety Recall BLG is a minor repair which will include the inspection and replacement of the crankshaft pulley and drive belts(not timing belt). Apparently, a few models had experienced separation of the rubber holding the pulley to the balancer. Just another example of Lexus stepping up and constantly improving their product without leaving you holding the bag for a repair. I could show you the official letter, but I don't think I'm allowed.

Disconnecting the battery erases seat memory. You may need to reinitialize the seat by sliding it to the fully forward position until you hear a slight 'beep'. Do the same with the forward recline position. You should then be able to reset seat/mirror/steering column position as usual. Same goes for climate control servo positions except you need the tech-stream (you don't have one)to do that.

"Mostly"? I guess you didn't actually "replace" your tilt motor.

Try this. It includes alot of stuff you won't need to know or do to replace your tilt motor. Sorry, I goofed the attachment the first time. STEERING COLUMN.pdf

Try this. It includes alot of stuff you won't need to know or do to replace your tilt motor.

You don't need to remove the steering wheel to remove the tilt motor. Use a socket with an opening slightly larger than the pressed-in studs that secure it. Next, find a bolt that can thread into the studs and pass it through the socket and into the studs using washers to keep it from going all the way through. As you tighten the bolt, it will pull the studs out. Remove the C-Clip from the stem and remove the motor. Be sure to use new bushings when replacing the motor to keep the column tight. To reset the TPWS, you must start the car. Next, reach under the driver's knee panel to find the TPWS initialization switch. Press and hold the switch until the display makes an AUDIBLE beep(no beep, no reset. May take 2 tries) and reads "Pressure Initial". Do this each time tires are rotated/replaced. Meanwhile, I'll see if I can find a picture on removing the tilt motor.

What code are you getting for the ABS/TRAC?

They weren't "lying" to you. The dealer is not in the business to modify your vehicle's safety devices. I can turn off any damn light you want but it doesn't mean I have any right to do it!

No service bulletins for engine noise on cold start-up for this model. If you brought it in already warm, they wouldn't hear it any way. Mention it to them and arrange to leave the car the night before so someone can hear it when it is first started.

The light will remain on until the vehicle goes through two "drive cycles". When the computer sees that the matter has been resolved, the light will go out and the "current" code will clear. If the vehicle has not been driven enough or has not been repaired, the light will stay on and the code will remain "current".

Key code is located on the inside passenger front door lock. An extra tag was originally included with the original set of keys.

I've seen a few models with non-oe park assist. I've never seen one integrated into a screen, only an audible warning. Suffice to say, they work anyway. I'd be *BLEEP*ed if the dealer told me I was getting OEM park assist and ended up without it. Someone on their end dropped the ball. If it's not too late, stick to your guns and get the OEM system. You'll be glad you did.

Look at where the wiper arm attaches. There's a nut that secures it to a spline. Make sure the arm is in the correct position and make sure the nut is secure. It's possible the arm beneath the cowl has detached, in which case you will have to remove everything and reattach it with a new retainer. WIPER_AND_WASHER.pdf