lenore

So sorry, I hope you have success, I would look at the timing, and the oil control valves incase they are stuck or messed up with sludge. That side of the engine gets hotter than the front and could be that valve. Please keep us informed of the fix for our data base of fixes. If you need any pictures of different sides of the engine I have them, as I just helped a neighbor rebuild the same engine on a highlander due to sludge... Here is the PDF file for the timing belt....They make it more difficult than it is, There are marks on the timing belt covers as well as on the engine block area near the crankshaft, once these are lined up you are set to go.... timing_belt.pdf

You know it has been happening to a lot of manufacturors. The newer engines run so hot for emissions and with the transverse engines with cooling on only one bank of the engine, I know the water and oil does most of the cooling, however air flow past the engine has to be helpful. We noticed that the firewall side of the Highlander engine was really bad with sludge (making my point) however it also has the PCV valve for whatever effect that has. I personally have rebuilt a Jaguar XKE (1969), Ford Mustang (1988), Mercedes Benz (1988) and now the highlander (2003) engines. so I have seen it done. The first three were mine and my families. It just takes attention to detail and mechanical apptitude. I am not a mechanic by trade, self taught, and used to race while in Spain....learned the hard way on British Cars. My training was in electronics (38years) but it teaches you troubleshooting, A skill a lot of folks dont have. I hope the original poster noted that yes the engine can be removed from the top as that is what started this thread. I have pictures from every conceivable angle of the 1MZE engine for future reference when we need them...

they still dont want any detergents in the oil.....and yes for seating the rings. The cylinders were honed and new rings installed.....lets not get into a debate on this, its done and will be synthetic soon. by the way after seeing every crevice and passage way on that engine I can see where oil would collect and bake. Lots of tall ridges and passages which appear OK, but not exactly sure why the sludge. Please note that the PCV was completely clogged and that could have built up a lot of pressure....

The 1MZE motor of course has steel sleeves, so unlike the Vega the auto industry learned a lot. As for break in oil we just followed the books and machine shop recommendations...

I know I read something on this but cant find it. I Would check timing belt for correct setup, that is a first. What kind of motor oil did you use.? these motors are prone to sludge. I am wondering if the cam valve is sludge up and giving you incorrect timing. would explain the one bank of codes. I found a troubleshooting section in the repair manual at around page 1706. The manual is a 34mb pdf file....I dont know if it will download, try.... http://www.divshare.com/download/2564077-62d

First, Roger sorry for your loss. I dont have siblings, but I just loss a close friend of 30 years and it was disturbing, a part of me went with him. As for the neighbors engine, yep, I suggested a machine shop that I had work done with satisfaction, and we assembled everything except for the valves, he had the shop R and R the head, but we put the cams in etc. The block end was real interesting as I have never done an engine with aluminum block. Toyota did a real nice job of making it strong. We put in new oil pump, rings, bearings, etc. The cylinders only had to be honed as they had no wear. The machine shop did the usual checks and cleaning. My neighbor took his time and rechecked everything when he doubted himself. I oversaw everything and added my experience and hands when needed. We installed all new idlers and tensioner with timing belt so now I am trained to do it on mine. I have done Honda timing belts, but not the Lexus one. Real simple and the belt markings make it a snap as long as you line up all the timing marks. My neighbor actually kind of enjoyed the experience and now can say he rebuilt an engine and was successful. I like people that venture out and are willing to try anything. Yes he will switch to synthetic when the breakin period is up, I sold him on it and he doesnt want a repeat, especially at 50k miles......Have a great evening.

If you have the wire mesh screen filter then yes you can clean it. Suggest spraying it with Brake cleaner and let dry. However the wire mesh screen filter is no longer available so if anyone changed it recently, then you probably have the paper medium filter inside. These can clog and would require replacement. Here is a great tuturial..... http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx300-foru...ter-change.html sorry about repeating that site. By the way there are lots of sites Carson/Lexus Toyota, Lexus of Plano Texas, RockAuto.com....or your nearest toyota dealership. Weigh in the cost of shipping versus local....

It may be a bandaid, but at least I dont have sludge.....Yes it is a design failure, but if synthetic fixes the problem than that is a better choice than putting up with the stearlerships destroying your car. Believe me I have never seen such imcomptetance as my local dealership. So as good cheap insurance I would highly recommend the use of a superior lubricant. The less the car is touched by the dealership the better the chance of longevity.

Probably the only failures are the sludged engines with regular dino oil when changed at the books spec of 5K miles. Especially on the 1MZE (RX and ES engine)

Welcome aboard, I would just start with fluid changes, engine oil, and transmission fluid (drain and fill only) If you have a Toyotas only kind of independent garage they would be a lot cheaper.

Yea, very clean, but also very sludged inside. I have pictures. The inside was even after a supposedly engine cleaning by some mechanic that I am afraid hosed my neighbor. Charged him $250 to desludge, but it didnt work. The bottom end of the engine was a disaster. 52k miles on it. By the way He ordered a long block, but it did not have the proper holes for the motor mounts for the highlander. Probably would have fit my Lexus fine as the mounts are different on the two vehicles. So he ended up rebuilding the original engine for $1600 total...Took his time and I helped when necessary. It is now running and started on the first shot. He did a great job. By the way his long block cost around $3600, but like I said wrong drillings, so back it went....

Here is how to get to it.... You will need to remove the 2 philip head screws on the upper part of black plastic cover around the cluster. Then remove the plastic trim around the ignition key cylinder and another plastic trim on the left side ( the seat memory and remote mirror switch are in this trim) and both of these trims just pop out. After remove the black plastic cover around the cluster, you will need to remove 3 move philip head screws that hold the cluster. Remove the cluster out of its housing and carefully disconnect 3 connectors. Then place the cluster face down on a towel to protect the clear cover. You will see the 'D' light from the back side. Just count the indicator light start from the bottom until you get to ' D'. Just use a small flat head screw driver and turn counter clockwise to remove the bulb. If you are not sure it's the right bulb you just removes, just shine the flash light behind it . Good luck. You will just have to find the bulb for the high beams....

I just helped the neighbor with a highlander do this. However I want you to know the highlander has better access. The wiper motor tray on the RX hangs way over the engine. You will absolutely have to remove it to pull the engine from the top...I would suggest getting a Haynes or factory manual but they are going to tell you to remove the engine from the bottom... The worst thing was gettiing the bracket bolts off the intake manifold between the firewall and manifold. It is a 14mm bolt. Look for replacing Knock sensors on this and the CL forum. Removing the bolts from the torque converter to starter flywheel was easy as there is an access hole under the transmission between the engine and tranny. You have a lot of wire harness connections which you will have to mark very carefully. The exhaust will have to be removed front and back as well as the radiator...If it is AWD the axle shafts will also have to be removed. I have a lot of pictures of the highlander removeal and engine compartment, the Lexus has some components located in different areas, however both are very similiar. here is a good start by the procedure for removing the Knocks sensor, it explains the removeal of the intake manifold which you will have to do. We used bolt through the original brackets support the intake for lifting the engine.....one last question is the engine sludged? If so it has a 8year120day warranty from LEXUS unlimited mileage. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...l=knock+sensors

Battery fumes????

No please no flush, Have the pan dropped and check the filter, if it is a paper one replace it and always use Toyota Type IV fluid or Mobil 3309, or Amsoil fluid... Here is a great post on how to do it with lots of feedback: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx300-foru...ter-change.html

The belt is too loose. Also would highly recommend original equipment belt as some aftermarket belts dont sit in the grooves the same. You can test belt tightness by twisting it 90 degrees in the longest stretch, it should not make the 90 degrees bend, if it does it is too loose.

One last thing to consider, if you dont do the service at Lexus you will in no way be considered as a customer loyalty candidate. Even if you buy the parts from Lexus.... The folks that have had things fail right after warranty and did all service at Lexus will generally(from what I have seen in the forums) get good will assistance in their difficulties. It is a toss, but in my case I lost when my transmission failed after warranty.... Personally I still believe as most, their service costs are outrageous and additionally substandard in quality. A good indepent that works on Toyota Lexus vehicles exclusively seems to be better at reducing costs, and additionally sees a lot of the recurant problems on higher mileage vehicles. His fix time is quicker and if he is good, of better quality....

Well as expected the news was negative from Corporate Lexus....They denied my claim for assistance on my transmission because of my new revelatiions of why they fail, and that they failed to provide proper maintenance schedule. I asked for further assistance in when exactly the changes or modifications were done on the transmission ie production date etc. She said they will get back with me. She said I was denied because of my relationship with Lexus (even though I bought all parts at Lexus unless they do the service you have no relationship) I asked whether my relationship of giving them the business for the transmission failure was significant over using an independent and she would not comment. I told her I could have saved at least $1000 over their business price. I find this just a continuing failure for Lexus to not stand behind there product unless you pour every dollar there way... I love the vehicle and bought it over a Mercedes, but deep in my gut, I find it distasteful in how they gave me no assistance after being promised assistance verbally (my bad). I will continue to help fellow owners,but I will not give Lexus of America my support for customer relations. I have over 90 owners emails of their failures which is not a lot, but it shows the frustration of folks that thought they were buying a touch of class with reliability. Again, as I have said before file your complaints with the NHTSA and also a new address: Lexus of America 19001 South Western AVE. Torrance, CA attention AL SMITH Good morning everyone, have a great day...

Did your rpm go up also in every gear, if so you have lost overdrive...and probably the transmission.

I dont believe you have a differential unless you have All wheel drive like the RX300. somebody may correct me but I believe you only have transmission fluid.

I dont believe you have a differential unless you have All wheel drive like the RX300. somebody may correct me but I believe you only have transmission fluid.

by the way highly suggest repairing it, the dealers dont do the repair they set it up with an independent that comes to their dealership and does the repair. That is why it cost around $100....I practiced on a piece of paper and was happy, then moved on to the car. Color matching was easy, they tell you to mix the colors and smear it on the door...if it isnt perfect you just wipe it off. The key was moving the little iron a lot and not concentrating the heat in one spot and also to keep the repair as small as possible...My wife was amazed when i did ours, my first time and she could not find the repair spot...Maybe I was lucky....By the way it has been quite awhile and and the repair is still perfect....Good luck... One other note when I called around they would not guarantee a perfect repair, that is when I decided why would I give them $100 for no guarantee....

The series number is the same ie 140e or 140f like on the highlander and RX300? Should work fine...if they are the same series transmission...any good tranny shop should be able to tell you.

should work out fine...just follow the kit instructions carefully....and read this post... note if you dont feel comfortable the going rate is around $100 to fix it... and they use basically the same kit.... by the way the tear I had was just as bad.... the GPS clip buried itself in the upper door panel....