jaswood

..and one hell of a lot of NOISE.

Not sure that means heater is a problem. Unless you nulled the multimeter to net out the test leads of the meter and of the harness you could be getting a false reading. Typically heaters (resistors) fail to an open circuit so a failed heater would read infinity or very high impedance. Fluke digital multimeter and I always touch the leads together to verify zero ohms reading. Electronic training began in 1957 in the USAF.

Absolutely not predictable. The computation is based on how you have driven the past 50-100 miles. So if you change the the "How" once the warning light comes on the computation goes out the window. Plus, suppose 50 of those miles were over a mountain pass and the last 50 on the flatland...??!! Or even worse, the past 100 miles were on a flatland and you're now headed up a mountain pass.

Idiot, ME, sorry. If the compressor clutch slips or the compressor turns so hard that the drive belt slips the A/C indicator will blink as an indcation of the failure. Unless you have seen that happen the compressor clutch is okay as is the drive belt.

I ordered 2 of the <$20 from Ebay, seller has 98% approval rating. Already shipped...on the way.

"..Puts a drag on the engine.." That CANNOT happen unless the compressor clutch is FIRMLY engaged. "...drag..." The compressor either compresses GAS or tries to compress liquid. In this latter case the compressor would FAIL within minutes. Compressor bearings failing could result in unusual drag but almost always accompanied by loud SQUEALING NOISE. As I said before the engine control ECU monitors the compressor clutch status and should "idle up", feed the engine more gas, when the compressor clutch engages. If you "feel" engine drag when the compressor engages it's more likely than otherwise due to miscalibration of the idle air bypass system, bypass port blocked by dirt/debris. Have someone, NOT FS, check your idle air bypass system.

Once the cabin temperature rises to, or very near, your temperature setpoint it will automatically switch into cooling mode. Airflow primarily via the dash outlets, coolish and DRY discomforting airflow.

Goggle for: lexus "climate control" c-best Or: Lexus "climate control" wwest

Firestone shops, and many others, are famous for finding defects that aren't. Go to an A/C specialist or just ignore Firestones advice. "..noticeable.." More likely than otherwise the idle air bypass system.

If you're looking at a F/awd model expecting AWD functionality you're barking up the wrong tree. 2005 or later MDX is the only base FWD with a reasonably adequate F/awd system.

If you're looking at a F/awd model expecting AWD functionality you're barking up the wrong tree. 2005 or later MDX is the only base FWD with a reasonably adequate F/awd system.

Yes, but it requires a tricky timing sequence, best to let the dealer do it.

P135, bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor heater open. Verified with multimeter plus bank 2 sensor 1 measured 14 ohms, should be 5-6 ohms. Lexus parts, $253.00 Napa parts ~$100 OEM, ~$70 Universal. Ebay <$20 Bosch.

Yes, I've had 2 "non-california" ones on my '95 for a number of years now.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-2005-2006-LEXUS-LS430-CATALYTIC-CONVERTER-PS-51873-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aLS430Q7cMakeQ3aLexusQQhashZitem3a6207b1c8QQitemZ250752774600QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

why not get a rebuilt from lexus and instead go to an indipendant garage, lexus offers 1 year warrantee and dcomes with a torque converter , does the ind shops use better parts, thanks for your input....mike Most lexus dealers charge TWO prices. Timing belt and water pump, Lexus $1100-1300, third party, $600-700. Lexus will often find additional "problems", sometimes real sometimes not, and then refuse to finish the job, "dealer liability", unless you cough up the dough to fix the other problems.

Once the engine has fully warmed up in the morning, coolant rises to ~100C, the engine is more likely to knock/ping.

Knock sensor....maybe so, maybe NOT..!! Engine might be actually knocking/pinging/lugging. Try a FULL tank of preminum fuel and see if things improve even slightly.

Since about the turn of the century EFI has been used to suppress knock/ping, detonation, on high compression engine when fueled with regular vs preminum. The engine ECU simply enriches the mixture slightly in MAF/IAT control mode (not idle or simple cruise) is even the slightest level of knock/ping is detected.

You can check the functionality, stall speed, of the torque converter by hard braking when in drive and depressing the accelerator until the engine RPM will not rise further. "stall speed" should not be more than 2000 RPM. This activity will serious HEAT the transaxle and ATF if used for more than a few seconds or repetively without a cool down period. If the stall speed checks out, <2000 RPM, then you have a slipping clutch.

I would first replace the fuel injector, spark plug, and ignition coil just for that cylinder as an inexpensive "trial".

At 125,000 miles if the transaxle hasn't already been replaced it will VERY soon need to be. Check the condition of your ATF every oil/filer change and make sure it is fairly clear and pinkish and does not smell burned. Average life of '01 and later RX300 transaxles appears to be 80-100,000 miles. RX330 dropped the VC and uses DBW to "protect the drive train", increase the usefull life of the transaxle. '99-'00 was even worse.

Check the look and odor of the ATF, it should look fairly clear and pink and NOT smell burned, otherwise it aen't broke so don't "fix" it. The RX330 does not have a VC so there is no undue wear to the drive train due to the F/awd system activity/activation. TC, braking and engine dethrottling, is used, exclusively, for AWD torque distribution upon detection of any wheelspin/slip. Also, the RX330 uses DBW to "protect the drive train" and relieve the need for quick downshifts during sudden re-accelerations following a brief coastdown period. Unlike the RX300 your RX330's ATF, Etc, should be good for the life of the vehicle.

Have you recently had a period, even brief, or TC or VSC activation..? Those use EFI fuel starvation to dethrottle the engine leaving "pure oxygen" reaching the catalyst. Mine will clear those codes in 50-100 miles.

Your transaxle is failing, has failed, SOP for '99-'00.

Hot and humid engine intake air.... Check the engine air filter and the MAF/IAT (Mass AirFlow sensor and Intake Air Temperature) module. Disconnect/pause/reconnect the battery on a hot and humid day and let the ECU "relearn" intake conditions in that situation.