Canopy

Jag? Oh, yeah. Long, lean, stretching out. ready to pounce. http://www.bbinsurance.com/ Like this one.

Yes, CanadaCraig's got the pictures in his "2007 Lexus LS460" message. Thanks, Craig, nice work. It is a good looking car, isn't it? Seems to be a cross between Lexus, BMW, and the older Jaguar.

I'm impressed. There's a picture in Wall Street Journal Online, but I haven't figured out how to get it in here. I'll keep trying. It does look like the BMW 7 Series, which, personally, I like. October 24, 2005 EYES ON THE ROAD By JOSEPH B. WHITE DOW JONES REPRINT Toyota's Master Plan Its New Lexus Is Key to an Ambitious Effort To Seize High Ground in Fuel-Efficiency Battle October 24, 2005 TOKYO -- When Toyota launched its Lexus luxury brand in the U.S. 15 years ago, the car that put the brand on the map was the LS400, which looked like a slightly toned-down Mercedes E Class but was priced substantially below its German inspiration. The derivative styling didn't stop a lot of American consumers from noticing the value proposition, and the Lexus flagship sedan's quality and quiet quickly earned it a legion of fans. Until now, Lexus has appeared reluctant to mess with the success formula for the LS. It looks less like an exact copy of the Mercedes today, but words like "emotional," "aggressive," "sporty" or "edgy" still don't apply. Toyota management would now officially like to change that. At last week's opening of the Tokyo Motor Show, the company unveiled a show vehicle called the Lexus Flagship Sedan concept car. (We'll just call it the "new LS.") It looks different from the old LS, but the differences aren't just hood-deep: The new LS is part of a not-very-secret plan to reshape the technological ground rules in the luxury-car market. Toyota The new Lexus Flagship Sedan concept car. The production version of new LS may not look exactly like this when it arrives within a year or so. But it's fairly clear, especially from a side view, that Lexus designers have removed the Mercedes E Class from its (figurative) pedestal in the design studio, replacing it with a BMW 5 or 7 series sedan. "We really wanted to have a departure from the past design of Lexus," says Kazuo Okamoto, the Toyota executive vice president who oversees research and development and design. That change, he says, started with the current-generation Lexus GS sedan, and has taken another step with the launch of the new Lexus IS, a car targeted directly at the BMW 3 series and the Infiniti G35. "Rather than targeting or being conscious of BMW, we want people to feel the emotional joy of driving the car," he said. This shift in styling and marketing values at Lexus will be accompanied by a push to expand the use of hybrid, gas-electric drive technology to set Lexus apart in the luxury field, Mr. Okamoto says. Lexus already is selling a hybrid version of the RX 330 crossover sport utility wagon -- a vehicle that has endured mixed reviews for its surprisingly unsurprising real-world mileage. Next year, Lexus plans to launch a hybrid version of the Lexus GS, called the GS 450h. The GS 450h will have a new, rear-wheel-drive hybrid system mated to a 3.5-liter V-6. Toyota claims the GS450h will have the fuel economy of a 2.0-liter engine (about 30 miles per gallon) and the acceleration of a 4.5-liter V-8 (zero to 100 kilometers per hour in under six seconds). But Mr. Okamoto says Lexus doesn't plan to stop there. A hybrid version of the LS is in the wings, and there's more beyond that. "For Lexus, hybrid technology is extremely important," he says. "We want to change the concept of the vehicle. What we have been discussing among the engineers is that the feel of driving the car should be more like a jet liner." Sometime around 2010, Mr. Okamoto says, Toyota plans to have the capability to build about 1 million hybrid vehicles a year -- still less than a quarter of Toyota's likely annual production. But Mr. Okamoto adds that "around that time, we would be able to reduce the cost, and have the cost of hybrid engines and gasoline engines comparable." In other words, hybrid technology could become economically transparent to customers, making whether or not to buy a hybrid come down to personal preference. That could make Lexus a brand characterized by cars with scorching performance and aggressive looks that also run clean enough and efficiently enough to please a card-carrying Sierra Club member. Of course, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. All this is still just a promise now. Meanwhile, luxury-car owners in Europe and a limited number in the U.S. already can already move to the sweet spot between power and fuel economy by purchasing cars such as the Mercedes E Class diesel. European diesels can outperform hybrids in a fuel-efficiency contest in highway driving -- the kind of driving most Americans do. But European diesels currently need a lot of costly technology to run clean enough to pass muster in the U.S., a problem Toyota's hybrids don't have. European car makers are scrambling to change the clean-diesel cost equation before Toyota eliminates the hybrid premium. In speeches and interviews around the Tokyo show, auto-industry executives agreed the car business is now heading into an all-out technological battle that recalls the industry's earliest days. The Japanese car makers, led by Toyota, want to establish gas-electric hybrids as the new standard for changing the oil-consumption equation. European car makers argue clean diesel engines -- and gasoline engines that act more like diesels -- can do the job more effectively. American car makers -- which have strong European ties -- are somewhere in the middle. Diesels are familiar, but hybrid technology is what clean-air regulators and leading-edge consumers in the U.S. market seem to want. The U.S., the world's richest single car market, could see a collision between hybrid and diesel solutions to the energy challenge. (Another market where such a contest could play out is China.) American luxury-car buyers will be one of the most-sought-after prizes as auto makers try to define the future: Car makers use their top-of-the-line models to start rolling expensive new systems down the mass-production cost curve. In this ultracompetitive period, it will be difficult to win while fighting junk-debt ratings and quarterly losses measured in billions. This, as much as anything, is what's causing panic in Detroit. •

How much? More than a broomstick? What's the part number?

If you look on the second page of this forum, about 21 messages down (at this point in time) you will see a topic "Cabin Air Filter" which may help you. You have an LS 430 which probably will be different in some respects than the LS 400, but at least it will give you some information about changing the AC filter. Of course I'm the guy who had to ask this forum how to do it (Blake sent photos and instructions) and then my wife had to take over and finish the job. But somebody here will be able to tell you exactly how. It's a good group.

OK, I know there are several threads on this, but technologies change and maybe the answers are different now. I have a 1996 and 2000 LS 400. Two questions: 1. Should the automatic transmission fluid ever be changed? My manuals suggest that perhaps it doesn't need to be changed, except under special conditions such as commercial use, dusty roads, etc. I do drive on a dirt road several miles each day. 2. If the fluid is changed, is it mandatory that only Toyota Type IV be used? Amsoil, Mobile 1, and my local SuperLube say that there now are equivalent or better alternatives to Type IV. Since I'm not the original owner of either of these two cars, my preference would be to flush out the old (which are still pink, if not red) and replace with synthetic and then forget about it. My local Toyota dealer will sell me 15 quarts of Type IV at $4.25 a quart, which I understand from this forum isn't a bad price. I'm not sure what synthetic costs. Then there's the issue, perhaps an old wive's tale, that you take a chance in replacing transmission fluid because there's "evidence" that leaks begin after a flush. I'm not sure I believe that, but that's what you hear. Ok, folks, tell me what I need to do, if anything.

Well, I'm not sure what I'm going to add to this since I haven't made up my mind yet, but let's just see where it goes. I have two Lexus Ls 400's, a 1996 and a recently purchased 2000. Best vehicles I've ever had. Never have had a Lexus SUV so am not qualified to speak about them. But I also have two Suburbans, a 1994 and a 1996. The 1994 has about 150,000 miles and the 1996 has 196,000. Both are in good shape. I've had Suburbans since 1976 (a 454 without smog equipment. I could put two horses in the trailer and accelerate to 75 in the acceleration lane before getting to the Interstate. I put 200,000 on that one and it still ran good, in fact one of the U. S. Marshalls in town is still using it for his "farm" vehicle). I've had good luck with my Suburbans, although I've never liked their brakes. The rotors tend to warp and need to be replaced every 50,000 miles or so. The air conditioning compressors seem to last for about 75,000 miles (which isn't bad in the humid South) and I've replaced two alternators. Never have had a problem with the transmission. Never have had any engine problems either, although I change the oil and filter every three thousand miles. We used to breed and raise Thoroughbreds and hauled them back and forth to Ocala, about 150 miles away on the Interstate so the towing got a workout. Never a problem (except the time in an emergency we had to use the Cadillac Seville to tow. I learned what overheating is all about). Suburbans are the best tow vehicles out there. Both of your choices are good choices. You probably can't go wrong with either. I've found the Suburbans to be very reliable, but the ride is certainly different than the Lexus cars. On the other hand, you can put a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood in the back of the Suburban and that's handy at times. Now with 4 vehicles and two drivers, I have to decide which one to sell. Probably will be the 96 Suburban, but I'm going to hate doing it. Good luck.

I just ordered two filters for my 1996 and 2000 LS 400's from http://www.irontoad.com/l_home.htm for a total of $55.98 including shipping. They are the same part number for each year and as listed in previous post. My local SuperLube wanted $49.95 each installed. Installation might take 10 seconds.

I would go to a good auto upholstery shop and get their opinion. They usually can match the leather, replace the panel, and you're good to go. A lot cheaper than $500. Probably $75 - $100.

USED AND/OR SALVAGED PART STORES http://www.autonetwork.org/ http://www.taprecycling.net/ These two places were referenced under the pinned Performance and Parts section in this forum. I have not tried them. Perhaps others have. Good luck.

That sounds exactly like my problem. Thanks for responding. Do you know what the sensor looks like? I looked underneath the passenger side headlight around the bumper and I see what appears to be an electrical connection plugged into something about a square inch in area. If that's it, it looks plugged in but it might be a bad sensor, or perhaps there's a bad connection somewhere else. WWest, no, the outside air temperature seems to be spot on, but thanks for the suggestion and for continuing to think about it.

Thanks, WWest, for such a scholarly reply. Complicated, isn't it? "Warm" is really warm, like it's coming from the heater (although since we're having 95 degree weather currently, it's hard to be sure). On "max cool" it's really cold, and I've been adjusting the blower as you suggested. Since I take my daughter to school in the morning and she prefers it to be warmer on the passenger side, she adjusts the temperature up a notch to 65 and the result is warm air on her side and cold air on my side. Dualing comfort controls, I guess. This is something I need to fix, but don't know where to start. Maybe it's all electrical or all computer. But I'm hoping it's something mechanical.

Thanks, SK. I'll get some.

For your engine cleaning, you "just (used) simple green and some shop towels." Forgive my ignorance, but what is "simple green"?

Thanks to those who responded with the good advice. Finally got the time to get a computer balance of the tires and that took care of the shimmy. Solid as a rock now. Now, if I could just get the air conditioning figured out (another thread).

Just purchased a nice hunter green 2000 LS 400 from private party for $17,500 with 74,480 miles to go with my wife's 1996 white pearl LS 400 (which I coveted). Think I got a pretty good deal, but on the drive home noticed that when the air conditioner buttons are changed from "Cold" on both sides to 66, 67, etc. the air becomes warm on both automatic and non-automatic. On "Cold" it is ice cold on both automatic and non-automatic so the compressor seems to be working fine. Blowers work fine as well. Any suggestions?

Thanks, SK. The shimmy did not occur when braking, just when accelerating to 70mph. Could that still be rotors?

I test drove a 2000 Lexus LS400 today with 74,000 miles. Everything seemed perfect except for a shimmy in the front wheels about 55-60 mph. Below 55 no shimmy, above 55 (went to 75) no shimmy. Seller is asking $18,000 which I believe to be a very good price. Any suggestions as what the shimmy could be? Serious condition? Expensive? Thanks.

Well, I for one think you are getting a terrific deal on that car. I bought our 96 LS 400 in July, 2004, for $12,500 with 103,500 miles, if I remember correctly. You'll love it. Your boss must think a lot of you to give you such a good deal.

Hmm. Got me thinking about trying it. May start with mid-grade and see how that goes first. Thanks for the response.

Another article indicating it's not necessary to use premium gas: washingtonpost.com Prices Fuel a Rebellion Drivers Tired of Paying More for Premium Gasoline Switch to Regular By Margaret Webb Pressler Washington Post Staff Writer Saturday, August 6, 2005; D01 For some people, it's hitting the big five-oh that really hurts -- that is, dropping $50 on a tank of gas. For others, it's just that relentless upward creep in prices that gets their attention. Whatever the trigger, drivers pulling up to the pump in vehicles that ostensibly require high-grade gas are wondering if they really need the more expensive fuel or whether it's okay just to fill it up with regular. As gas prices soar, car owners increasingly are going for the cheaper stuff -- no matter how fancy their wheels. And station owners and oil companies are seeing the impact: Sales of premium and mid-grade gasoline are tumbling. It's an age-old response, industry experts say, for drivers to switch from pricey, higher-octane formulations of gas to cheaper alternatives whenever gasoline prices rise substantially. Now, with prices stuck stubbornly high, oil experts wonder whether high-grade gas will go the way of the Studebaker. "I foresee no serious decline in prices anytime soon, so the question is, will consumers' buying habits change permanently if the higher prices stay as they are," said Daniel F. Gilligan, president of the Petroleum Marketers Association, which represents independent filling stations. "Will it be more difficult to attract consumers back to the higher-octane fuels? I don't know." Automotive experts say using regular gas in most vehicles does no damage and makes no discernible difference in performance. Cars made in the past 15 years have such highly refined computer controls that the engine will adjust to the grade of octane in the gasoline, even in cars sold as requiring premium gasoline. Some drivers -- in some cars under some driving conditions -- may notice a drop in horsepower, but for most people behind the wheel, it wouldn't be enough to notice, the experts say. "It's not going to hurt anything," said Peter Gregori, service manager for EuroMotorcars, a Mercedes-Benz dealer in Bethesda. In fact, Gregori has been using regular gas in one of his own Mercedes cars for two years, and "it's perfect," he said -- even though Mercedes-Benz says owners should use only premium. "I get better mileage with the regular than I do with the high-test, in this particular model that I have," Gregori said. Among cars that come in for service, Gregori said, he can't tell which have been sipping premium. Apparently, drivers are figuring this out. Nationally, sales of premium gasoline fell 5.6 percent this year through May, the latest data available, according to the Energy Information Administration, while overall regular gas sales were up 4.7 percent. Premium sales were down almost 9 percent in Virginia and 5.5 percent in Maryland. In the District, premium sales were down 28 percent, an especially steep decline that may be overstated because of a fluctuation in suppliers reporting for such a small market, EIA economists said. But the relationship between regular gasoline, which fell 22.5 percent, and premium sales is accurate, said economist Michael Burdette. "Volume-wise, we're definitely selling less," Chris Wangkang, manager of a Shell station in Rockville, said of the station's premium V-Power gasoline. As he spoke, a young woman in a black BMW -- another carmaker that recommends premium fuel -- pulled away from the pump outside. "What did she get?" Wangkang asked his cashier, who checked her receipt. "Regular," he replied. The first drivers to defect from premium, station managers say, are those whose cars don't specify a need for premium gasoline but who were using it anyway, thinking it might help -- even though most experts say it won't. But even owners of cars that purport to require high-test -- complete with a warning on the gas cap, "Premium Fuel Only" -- also are trading down. David Shapiro said he and his wife switched to regular independently of each other about two weeks ago. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision for the tax lawyer with the D.C. office of PricewaterhouseCoopers. "I never really knew if it made a difference, and I figured it was time to try and see if my car really works fine," he said of his Volvo, which recommends premium fuel. "It's like two bucks a tank difference, so it's like a free gallon. And it hasn't made a bit of difference in how the car drives." Although the numbers are slightly different in some states, premium fuel typically has an octane rating of 91 while regular fuel's rating is 87. Octane controls the fuel-air mixture in an engine to keep it from igniting before it's supposed to, which can cause reduced power and harmful knocking. But in all modern cars, computers adjust the timing of the engine's compression so that "pre-ignition" never happens, said Cole Quinnell, a spokesman for Chrysler Group Engineering. "It does not hurt the engine -- sensors automatically readjust the engine basically for that reason, to save itself," he said. Chrysler recommends 91-octane fuel for its high-performance and turbocharged automobiles, such as the SRT models, "but all our products will run on 87 or 89," Quinnell said. Any loss in performance would come when an engine is pushing to its maximum power and speed, he said, so "if an average driver got into one of our SRT vehicles, they wouldn't notice any change." Karl Brauer, editor in chief of Edmunds.com, an automotive information and research firm, said carmakers perpetuate the premium fuel requirement because engines designed for that gas can achieve greater performance when powered by the high-grade fuel. "Manufacturers want to be able to quote high horsepower numbers," Brauer said. "If it's not run on premium, it probably won't ever hurt the car. It probably won't ever be noticed by most drivers. But they can still have their claimed horsepower for their brochures." Oil refiners make the most money from selling higher-grade gasoline because the higher cost to produce it is more than made up by the added charge to customers, said Fadel Gheit, an oil analyst at Oppenheimer & Co. in New York. Gas stations also benefit from higher margins on premium fuel. "It's to everybody's advantage to push the high-grade," Gheit said. For their part, the oil companies say they're just providing the fuel that carmakers demand. "We're guided by what the car manufacturers say and what the octane requirement would be, so our responsibility is to fill the need and provide what the consumer would require for their cars to work most efficiently," said Gerald T. Davis, a spokesman for Sunoco. Asked if premium gasoline is more profitable for the oil company, Davis would say only, "Our gasoline is priced competitively and fairly." Staff writer Justin Blum contributed to this report. © 2005 The Washington Post Company

This is an interesting article. Makes a distinction between "required" and "recommended" octane. If "recommended" in manual, then car should run OK on regular gas, but suffer a little in performance. If "required", the implication is that you have to run it on premium. My 1996 LS 400 manual states: "Select premium unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number of 96 (Octane Rating 91) or higher for optimum engine performance. However, if such premium type cannot be obtained, you may temporarily use unleaded gasoline with an octane number as low as 91." Of course, it doesn't say what the octane rating is for Octane Number 91. Has anyone tried Regular or Mid-Grade? What's the result? Is it heresy to even try it? Here's the article: Special Reports Do You Really Need Premium? And Answers to Other Gasoline Questions By Edmunds.com Editors Date Posted 07-05-2005 Buying premium gas is like taking vitamins — you can't always feel the difference and yet you know it's the right thing to do. But as gas prices climb, paying the extra dime per gallon for premium is like adding insult to injury. Eventually, the thought is bound to jump into your head: do I really need to pop for premium? Until about 15 years ago, if a car called for premium gas and you pumped in regular, the car began to knock and ping and even vibrate. But that was before they essentially put a laptop under the hood of the automobile, said Dr. Loren Beard, senior manager of Environmental and Energy Planning, for Daimler Chrysler. Now, sensors take readings and tune the engine as you drive by adjusting the timing for whatever fuel you put in the tank. The result is that a car that calls for the midgrade gasoline will usually run on regular without knocking, Beard said. However, its performance will suffer slightly. How much? It will be perhaps a half-second slower going from zero to 60 mph. Volvo cars call for "premium fuel [91 octane or better] for optimum performance and fuel economy," said Wayne Baldwin, product/segment manager S60/S80. "However, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using 87 octane as the knock sensors and engine management system 'protect' the engine from knocking." Baldwin, a former rally driver who competed in SCCA Pro Rally events said that engines have changed a lot in the past 15 years. "Cars built before 1990 probably do not have knock sensors and many brands back then relied on high-compression ratios for the best performance. Today [performance comes from] electronically controlled spark curves, turbos, variable valve timing, supercharging and knock sensors." Issues of performance aside, Baldwin said you should never use gasoline that causes your car to knock. "Constant knocking or detonation is a real bad thing for engines," he said. When choosing what grade of gasoline to use, Steve Mazor, principle auto engineer for Auto Club of Southern California, said it is important to read the owner's manual carefully. The key is to figure out whether premium gasoline is "required" or "recommended." If it is recommended then a driver could opt to use a lower grade of gas, if they were willing to accept slightly reduced performance and fuel economy. However, Mazor added, "We don't recommend that people switch down. Let's say you switch down to regular, and you have to accelerate to avoid an accident and it doesn't accelerate fast enough. The Auto Club can't be responsible for causing that situation." Edmunds.com has a Volvo S40 in its fleet, so we consulted the owner's manual to see the exact phrasing in regard to fuel requirements. It said, "Volvo engines are designed for optimum performance on unleaded premium gasoline with an AKI (Anti Knock Index) of 91 or above. The minimum octane requirement is AKI 87." It appears that Volvo is making a recommendation for premium gas but is not requiring it. In Edmunds.com's Forums debates abound over the pros and cons of using different fuel grades. One member even suggested there was only one type of gasoline, no difference — except for price — between regular and premium. Other members recommended using premium gas even if the manual called for regular. We put this question to Mazor and Beard. Mazor: "All this does is do a very good job of draining your wallet. People used to put in a tank of premium to get 'the good stuff' to help their engines stay clean. But now they put detergents in all grades so it doesn't really get you anything." Beard: "If you have car designed to run on 87 [octane], it doesn't help to run it on higher-octane-level gas. But there are several exceptions." He said that the 3.5-liter Chrysler engines are designed to run on midgrade gas (89 octane) and it allows them to advertise a certain peak horsepower. However, it will run well on regular gas. "The difference is very small," he said. Interestingly, Mazor noted that at some gas stations, there are only two grades of gas. However, they blend the regular and premium at the pump to produce the midgrade gasoline. This allows them to have only two underground tanks for the gas storage. In Edmunds' forums some drivers expressed concern about the quality of gas sold at independent gas stations and advised sticking to the so-called "name" brands of gasoline. "Typically the only difference is the additive package they put in the gas," Beard said. The additive package is often put into the gas as the tanker is filled up at the refinery. A common additive is a detergent agent. "The law requires a certain level of detergents in gasoline. Shell for example is putting in more detergent — whether that has a measurable effect to the driver is debatable." Detergents have a marked effect on engine deposits. "If you take apart a modern engine that has been running on a modern fuel, and compare this to an old engine that was running on old gas, you can see an obvious difference," Mazor said. The biggest difference between today's gas and the gas sold 15 years ago is the removal of lead. Taking out the lead, and developing effective catalytic converters to more completely burn emissions, have radically cut pollution. While oil companies like to advertise the magical powers of their gasoline, it appears that there is very little difference between brands. Most drivers fill up at the nearest gas station or the one for which they carry a credit card. Does a gas expert like Beard have a preference when buying gas? "I just watch the light on the dash. After it has been on for a day I get nervous and go to the closest station available."

This story has a happy and simple ending so bear with me and maybe it will save you some money some day. This morning I borrowed my wife's '96 LS400 and went to the office. Fifteen minutes later I had to go to a meeting and tried to start the car. Nothing. After about 15 tries the dash lit up and it started perfectly. But, I was concerned that the battery might be dead or headed that way so after the meeting (it started up fine again) I drove straight to Sears and asked them to check the battery. The guy came back and said the battery was fine, but the alternator needed to be replaced. I asked him "Why?" and he said that the alternator wasn't working all the time and it didn't charge the battery enough. That didn't sound quite right to me (although I'm not the least bit mechanically minded), so I asked him if the alternator was "putting out enough" (technical term) when it was running. His answer was somewhat nonresponsive, so I began to wonder whether he really had diagnosed the problem. In the meantime, the saleslady was checking the price for a replacement (NAPA) and came up with the total of $502.00 installed for a new alternator. Now, in my opinion Sears is a good place to buy tires and batteries, but I don't want any serious mechanical repairs done there so I thanked them, got a jump to get it started, and went down the road to an auto electric shop I'd done business with 20 years ago. Asked them to check the alternator and the battery. They did, said both were OK although the battery needed charging. Then he checked the connections, found one of them loose, tightened it, charged me $5.00 and sent me on my way. While working on it, he said that I would be amazed at the number of cars that were towed to his shop when the only problem was a loose connection. Lesson learned. Always check the connection first.

Those pictures were worth two thousand words. You convinced me. Thanks for the follow up.

I sure would like to know when, and if, you plan on selling it. I would be interested. My wife currently has one of that vintage and loves it. I might want a matching pair.