Shaggz

I haven't been told to do anything with mine yet. I just know I've got an error code 71 causing the check engine light to come on. All signs point to the EGR system, but how do I determine whether it's the EGR Valve, Modulator, VSV, or what? Do I just go one by one replacing each component hoping to eventually get to the troublemaker? I have inspected the modulator and the filter is nasty and definitely needs replacing, so I guess I'll just start there, but what next if that doesn't solve my problem? Anyone?? One other idea...I have reason to believe my steering rack may be leaking, possibly near the O2 sensor(s). Is it possible that situation could cause faulty O2 sensor operation, thereby causing a misdiagnosed EGR system malfunction? Just a thought...

The check engine light just came on in my 91 LS400. The error code is a 71. I will start the diagnosis after work today, but I'm curious, how risky is it to drive the car before the (EGR) problem is resolved? Is it possible that limited driving under it's current condition may cause additional problems? Is it possible the car will suddenly quit on me? Thanks for any additional insight...

91 LS400 - 172,xxx and climbing...

Ahhh....I see...when you click on that link it bounces you to the root web. I was able to get the actual burnout.wmv to load and what the hell?!?!?! That's out of control :D Where there's smoke there's fire...nice video AOO!!

Nice, er, I mean, yikes!! I hope I don't get in trouble for hitting that at work?!?! :whistles:

I am running the Sylvania Silverstars on my 91 LS400 and I love them. They are a world apart from than the OEMs and quite an inexpensive option. Regarding the yellow fog lights...perhaps this could shed some light on their origination...check this Google discussion, possibly more info than you care to know.

Sorry folks, I was mistaken...it was actually the 8" that I used as a replacement. I found the original box from the subwoofer I bought and now I remember the whole story...it was a couple years back. The audio shop guy tried to tell me it would take a 10", so I bought the thing and wasn't able to fit it without serious modification. I took it back and got the 8" and it fit like a glove. The screw holes aren't an excact match, but you should be able to find a kit to mount it securely. I cut the OEM harness and wired it up and it sounded awesome! :D Once I saw that the existing screw holes weren't going to work, I decided to take the car to the audio shop and let them mount it securely for a small charge. One thing led to another and I never made it back to the shop. That said, it's been over 2 years and the replacement sub STILL has not been "securely mounted". That's how snug it fits, and it still sounds as good as the day I installed it. :o Now, I don't recommend this solution, but it seems to have worked for me. I've also been told that vibration around the speaker can cause speaker damage (as well as poor quality sound), but I've not experienced any problems whatsoever, that I can hear at least. Maybe one day I'll get the thing properly mounted, but I'm not in any hurry. Subwoofer details Kicker CompVR ($50-$70) 8" 4ohm DVC Subwoofer Max Amp Power (watts): 200 Sensitivity (db1w/1m): 83 Frequency Response (Hz): 30-500 Mounting Depth (in., mm): 3-15/16, 100.1 Mounting Hole Diameter (in., mm): 7, 177.8 Item# 01C8VR4 Thanks to jadecuir for triggering my memory

Ahh, the perfect spot to drop a comment a colleague of mine made when discussing the lifespan of vehicles in general. Let me preface this by stating this fellow drives a 2000 C class <_< On with the claim he made... I noticed another forum user found a 91 LS400 with 120,000 miles and a clean and well kept maintenance record for only $4500. IMHO, that's a great deal and I'd buy it anyday. Well, this idiot overheard me talking about it to someone else and decided to jump in with his 2 cents (or less) and tried to convince me it wasn't a good deal because no gasoline engine should last more than 200k miles without becoming a money pit. Of course, I'm 99.99% certain he's wrong, but I'm curious to hear if anyone has some solid data that would actually support or deny his claim. I'm not interested in wasting my time debating him, I'm just the curious type. But he's a fan of diesel engines, stating they last longer and run better overall and are the only reliable option for extended engine life. He also believes diesel is the wave of the future for gas/electric hybrids.

Sup rahlo :D You may have a little trouble from time to time, but no moreso than with any other vehicle, if anything, less...the good news is, you've found the holy grail for info on keeping her in tip-top shape. Welcome! B)

In case you haven't had a chance to just measure the thing, I will offer up that the 91 LS400 comes with an 8" woofer (center of rear deck), although it can be replaced with a 10" without modification.

Well, that all certainly seems to make sense. It's rather easy to notice the partial throttle difference when you compare the two switch positions. I've never really put 2 and 2 together on that, though, I'm glad the mystery is solved. I had no idea the smooth shifting normal operation is actually more taxing on the system. But as stated, it makes good sense now that I understand what the switch does. As for gas consumption, I have undoubtedly noticed greater consumption rates when in Pwr mode. I also noticed the owner's manual "warns" of such a side effect when using Pwr mode. Fortunately, I don't drive an LS400 because it's economical, I drive it because it's a kickass luxury automobile :D

I definitely agree, it does behave more responsively, I'm just trying to understand the exact science behind it.

I don't know, they make dent resistant panels, why not poo resistant paint? Just seems like a logical progression in technology to me.

SWO, how does it add to the "seat of the pants" if the accelleration is no different at all? I would suggest that it DOES affect accelleration, but only as I described above. Of course, it's all just theory in my head but it seems to make sense.

Makes sense... If svrog was correct (which it sounds like), Power mode just delays the shifting until higher RPM. I woudn't expect it to accellerate faster until you hit that threshold where the ECT switch goes into effect. At that point, though, I would definitely expect it to accellerate faster because you'd be running at higher RPM through the top end of each gear. But that's exactly the info I was hoping to discover, thanks for everyone's input :D