RX in NC

Bottom line is this - if you can't tolerate quirky/jerky transmission shift patterns, don't get an RX. We've learned our lesson and will never own another one.

You'll find that a number of us who own an all-wheel-drive RX300 are very unhappy with our vehicles, particularly since they seem to have the weakest and most problematic transmission that I've ever encountered in 35+ years of owning and driving vehicles. Search this forum using key words like "transmission failure", spend some time reading the results, and you'll come to understand some of the things I'm referring to. I find the RX300 an overweight, underpowered, over-hyped vehicle that my wife wanted when she caught "Lexus fever" a few years back. She now very much misses her previous Grand Cherokee and would love to have it back instead of her RX albatross - she now admits to how much better off she was in her Grand Cherokee. But she's going to have to live with her RX for another year or two until I'm willing to swallow the depreciation on it. I'm looking forward to pushing it off a cliff when that time comes....

Thanks for the support, SW03ES. The actual reason that I haven't posted in several days is because I've been too busy with ongoing construction projects on our home to bother turning my computer on. Real life always takes precedence over keyboard time for me. As I've said before, monarch drones on and on about the superiority of every single Toyota/Lexus part compared to the rest of the world but rational owners realize that it just isn't true, and could never be. No single manufacturer could possibly assemble any vehicle with 100% world-class parts from top to bottom - there will always be a better mousetrap out there. Consider the lousy original rear main seals, strut mount rubber bushings, Bridgestone Dueler tires, and other inferior parts that were factory-installed on the early RX300 models. The timing belts are superior but the AC/Alternator belts and Power Steering belts are nothing more than adequate. There are a number of examples that have been proven time and time again that monarch fails to recognize. The bottom line here is that you're severely restricting your opportunities to improve the quality, performance, and sometimes safety of your vehicle as it requires parts and maintenance if you refuse to accept the fact that there are often better options available to you, frequently at far better prices, than just blindly purchasing the vehicle manufacturer's products without doing a bit of research first. This goes for every single vehicle manufacturer on the planet, including Lexus. Monarch cannot seem to grasp this concept and always espouses his "only Lexus parts" philosophy to others seeking advice, and as a result he hurts them in the long run. And I think that's doing a disservice to the inexperienced folks who come here looking for advice and assistance out of frustration with their particular problem.

Do you have the AWD model? If so, it may very well be your transmission beginning to fail. Check your automatic transmission fluid for proper level as well as color, odor, and possible debris.

I still say that monarch is on Toyota's payroll somehow....

What I do is a lifestyle more than a strategy. It works for me because I am disciplined and committed to it beyond the capability of 99.9% of the general population. But it does work. I retired at 49 because of this program.

I for one believe you. I just don't agree with compulsive spending instead of professional investing because I'm hard-wired that way. But that's your choice and I wish you the best.

As you know, your ball joint should not have been even close to failing at 60,000 miles. If Lexus refuses to work with you (and assuming your vehicle has not been in an accident previous to this), you may want to contact your state's Attorney General's office for consumer assistance. Good luck and keep us posted.

I don't offer stock tips because in order to become a long-term successful market trader and investor, you must first put in the time and effort towards understanding market mindset, discipline, and technical analysis. This takes the average person three to five years. There is no magic stock or best stock, and there is no "right" stock that applies to everyone across the board. Your path to long-term market success comes from picking two to four "expert stocks" that you follow and learn and track daily without fail. You must keep a daily journal of these stocks and record where they open, how they track during the market day, and where they close - EVERY MARKET DAY WITHOUT EXCEPTION AND THERE ARE NO EXCUSES FOR NOT RECORDING THIS INFORMATION IN YOUR MARKET JOURNAL EVERY DAY FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE - period. Documenting this information takes about five minutes per day once you get good at it, and it will take you a few months to get good at it. As you build this stock activity history (that's really what you're doing), your market journal will become the most valuable possession you own because it will show you in black and white what your stocks did during all market conditions during all trading zones during all market events year after year after year. That is absolutely priceless information and I cannot begin to make you understand how important that information will become to you as you make your buy/sell/call/put decisions in the future. If your house catches on fire and you have time to retrieve only one item before your home burns to the ground, that one item you save will be your market journal. You won't even think about anything else. You don't believe that now, but it's true. My four "expert stocks" are right for me and they may not interest you at all. You will eventually come to know your chosen "expert stocks" as well as you know your own children. You will learn how they react during earnings season, during warnings season, and during all three trading zones throughout the year. You will instinctively know when your "expert stocks" get up in morning, when they go to lunch, when they rally, when they flag, and you'll be able to correctly predict within a few pennies of where they'll close each day (barring a 9/11 or London bombing event, etc.). You will be able to make money by trading options off of your "expert stocks" because 80% of the time you will be able to correctly predict which direction they are headed over a one-week to four-week period, and you'll be able to play calls (when the stock is heading up) or puts (when the stock is heading down). But this takes some damn hard work, discipline, the ability to control your own fear and greed, the commitment to always follow the market rules and never break them (because the market is always right regardless of what you think and will take your head off if you try to contradict it). You must understand that this is a lifetime process and commitment, not a get-rich-quick scheme. There is no shortcut or easy money out there. What I can offer is a recommended reading list of market and mindset books that can get you started in the right direction. You can find most of these books at your public library or through amazon.com. Take the time to read and study them and your market knowledge and understanding will begin to appreciate dramatically. Here's the list, in the order that you should read them: "Rich Dad, Poor Dad" by Robert Kiyosaki "The Cashflow Quadrant" by Robert Kiyosaki "Introduction to Technical Analysis" by Martin Pring "Rich Dad's Prophecy" by Robert Kiyosaki "The Disciplined Trader" by Mark Douglas "Japanese Candlestick Charting Techniques" by Steve Nison "The Market Maker's Edge" by Josh Lukeman "Getting Started in Options" by Michael Thomsett "Boomernomics" by Sterling and Waite This list is the initial part of a massive reading list that consists of more than 300 books compiled by one of the most dedicated and successful investors that I've ever met. He lives here in North Carolina and he has a remarkable ability to teach anyone willing to dedicate themselves to becoming a student of the market how to identify their own personal strengths and weaknesses and how to go on from there. He's also filthy rich and he walked away from his job in his mid-30s (he's now 45, I think). It makes no difference whether you are a high school graduate or a PhD - with hard work and discipline you can become as astute in the market as you choose to be. It's all about learning to combine the "art" of investing with the "charts" of technical analysis, but it takes years of dedicated effort. It is truly a "by yourself" thing - no one can do it for you. You get back exactly what you put into it. You become a lifelong student of the market and you can always improve your trading skills, investing skills, charting skills, and there is always more to read and study. But it eventually becomes second-nature to you. Some people choose to watch TV (my wife falls in that category). I think it's a waste of time and I choose to spend that time doing market analysis and reading more books on options or techniques or mindset or whatever I'm interested in learning about at the time. Warren Buffett once said "if you want to be rich, do what rich people do - read." He was absolutely 100% on the money with that statement. Check out these books and you'll begin to understand where I'm coming from. But you must first understand that "trading" and "investing" are two completely different concepts and strategies. In a nutshell, you must first learn to trade so you can glean the money that will then allow you to invest and grow your wealth. You use your trading earnings to consistently grow your vault and that is what leads to wealth, usually built on no more than five to ten trades per month. Go find these books and over time you'll make yourself a far better trader and investor than you ever thought you could be. I hope this long response has been worthwhile for you. Following this process has made me financially independent over the course of the last fifteen years. I know it works. But I admit that it is damn hard work and not everyone has the discipline and commitment to stay with it. Best wishes to you.

SW03ES may be a youngster but he understands the importance of "invest first, buy second". If you learn to manage your money at a young age, you'll be able to purchase more of the things that you're passionate about throughout your lifetime because you'll take care of your financial planning first and therefore cover all your bases regardless of what life throws at you (health problems, job loss, career issues, spouse problems, etc.). I love nice houses, vehicles, and toys as much as the next guy. But I've worked hard, invested well, managed our assets professionally, and been prudent about what we need vs. what we want. The result? We were debt-free by age 36. We owned our home, our vehicles, our property, and everything else free and clear and its been that way ever since. We finance nothing. If we want another house, we pay cash. If we want a new vehicle, we pay cash. If we want a piece of property, we pay cash. We'll never have to worry about retirement and paying for our old age. Our only real concern is staying healthy enough to enjoy what we've worked hard to do and build. If I had not managed our finances the way that I do, we would not be in this position. And that's why a professional understanding of financial planning and money management is so crucial for everyone. Too many people work hard all their lives, make a great deal of money, but still manage to accumulate more debt than assets. That is very sad and completely avoidable for anyone with discipline.

For the past two decades I've used a top-notch local independent body shop owned by the same family for 30 years on the rare occasions we've needed body work done. They have the best paint-matching technology and some of the most highly-skilled body repairmen and painters I've ever met. Regardless of what we're driving at the time, this is the only place I allow to do bodywork and paintwork on our vehicles. I recommend that you look around and find a similar shop and stay with them as you need them.

Do as you wish. But as I stated before, cars are NOT an investment - they are an expense. Don't fool yourself into thinking that you're "investing" your money when you purchase vehicles. You're spending, not investing. I encourage you to look into some money management and financial planning courses. You and your family should benefit handsomely in the long run.

LexKid630, I know you're a pharmacist and you seem to have plenty of disposable income. I'm an investor who specializes in using stock market options to build significant wealth over time, and I know a great deal about financial planning and money management. Allow me to offer you a bit of free advice. Your automotive whimsy and teenage approach to buying vehicles and then getting tired of them and trading them in for something else is killing your bottom line, not to mention your depreciation schedule. You have kids in college but you deal in and out of cars as if you were 16 years old. For your family's sake as well as your own, STOP IT! Quit buying cars on whimsy and emotion just because you think it would be fun to have this or that model. Figure out the vehicle you need, do copious amounts of research on it, take all the emotion out of the equation, and then go drive your best deal. Plan on keeping the vehicle you've selected as your best fit for at least four years and preferably five. The depreciation you're giving up with your current behavior is absolutely killing you. I'll bet the Lexus salespeople duke it out in the showroom for the opportunity to work with you when they see you coming. You're not only putting your own kids through college, you're also financing the lifestyle of your Lexus salesperson. Show some restraint, take the emotion out of the deal, and learn to match your automotive needs with your wants a whole lot better. You are absolutely killing yourself financially with your current automotive behavior. Always remember that buying a vehicle is rarely an investment; it is an expense. Cars are not really assets because they depreciate so quickly, particularly in the first year of ownership. No hard feelings - I just hate to see people throw their money away through foolish and uneducated behavior.

The RX300 AWD is NOT an off-road vehicle, period. You're asking for trouble if you take it off pavement, even for short stretches. Our meticulously-maintained transmission failed at 48,000 miles and was replaced under warranty. It still shifts more like a $12,000 vehicle than one that originally stickered for more than three times that amount. My 1999 Dodge Ram pickup has a far smoother transmission than the RX, and the Ram doesn't have to be pampered and babied all the time. The exhaust manifold, rear main oil seal, mass air flow sensor, air/fuel ratio sensor, and front strut mount bushings all failed during 2003 and 2004, some components under warranty and some post-warranty. I forced Lexus to pick up the tab on all of these repairs - over $9,000 to date. I cannot recommend an RX300 AWD to anyone. It has been the most disappointing vehicle I've owned in more than 35 years of driving, and I guarantee you that my wife will go back to a Grand Cherokee as soon as I'm willing to swallow the depreciation on her RX300 crackerbox. She's had great success with Grand Cherokees (we've had three of them) and regrets that she caught "Lexus fever" a few years back.

When our Air/Fuel Ratio sensor failed last August, I forced Lexus to replace it under their goodwill warranty policy. If I had to pay for it, the cost would have been about the same as what you were quoted. My wife's 2000 RX300 has suffered from many failed components during 2003 and 2004, far more than this vehicle should have experienced. As a result, I've battled with Lexus on multiple occasions and have basically had more than $9,000 worth of service performed on this vehicle at no charge to us. I research the problems thoroughly, prepare my case, and then dig in and do battle with Lexus until I get what we need. So far I'm batting 1.000 with repairs including replacing the transmission, the exhaust manifold, the front strut mount rubber bushings, the Mass Air Flow sensor, the Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor, the rear main oil seal, and a couple of other items. Very few owners possess the stomach and relentless willpower to battle service departments like I do. But it works for us and I don't mind creating a ruckus in the dealership if I need to. The key is to remain professional and knowledgeable, but absolutely ruthless as well. But we'll never have another RX in our household after this one runs its course. My wife will return to her beloved Grand Cherokee line-up. We've had three of them and it's a bulletproof vehicle that has been far more reliable for us than this fragile, underpowered, under-engineered RX300 crackerbox. I look forward to pushing it off a cliff when we're done with it.... Good luck with your Air/Fuel Ratio sensor.

Sorry, but that orange thing is butt-ugly.... It's amazing what kids will do (and spend) to ruin their vehicles, particularly when it comes to resale value....

Your Air/Fuel Ratio sensor is failing. It is also called the Bank One sensor. The sensor itself is about $200 from a parts distributor and somewhat more than that at a Lexus parts department. Labor to remove the old sensor and replace it with the new one will also run you several hundred dollars. If you're mechanically inclined, you can tackle this repair yourself. But you must first determine the exact location of the failed sensor. And be careful not to strip the threads in the manifold when you remove the old sensor.

Forum managers, Who is this guy? You need to kill his IP address on your servers so once he's banned he can't sign on under a different user name.

Take the time to go and drive a Pacifica. You may very well change your initial impression of the vehicle being a minivan. It isn't. It's really best defined as a crossover vehicle. Very well-engineered and it drives beautifully. I'm 6'7" and thought that there was no way I could get comfortable in it. Turns out that it provides me with pretty good legroom and decent headroom as well.

I plan to run the original Denso iridium plugs to 120,000 miles if we keep the vehicle that long. I already know that I'll have a miserable day under the hood trying to change the three rear plugs when it's time to do so. Take a look at the set-up for yourself and you'll see what I mean. If you change your plugs, please post and let us know the procedure you used to handle the three rear ones. It is going to be a !Removed!, no question about it.

We've had three Grand Cherokees and found them to be bulletproof with proper routine maintenance performed on schedule. With all the problems my wife has had with her 2000 RX300, I can't tell you how much she regrets catching "Lexus fever" a few years back. She would dump the RX today if I could get her last Grand Cherokee back in the same condition we sold it in. When we dump her RX in another year or two after I'm willing to accept the depreciation hit, she'll go running and screaming right back to a Grand Cherokee. You should also look at the Pacifica. It is a great product that doesn't get enough credit for how well-designed and built it is for the money.

I order tires from tirerack.com and have them mounted by a long-time locally-owned tire shop that treats me right, has very fair prices, and always gets it right the first time. Find a similar shop in your area and develop a relationship with them. Lousy tire work can kill you just like lousy brake work can.

Lexus and Toyota techs will tell you that the Denso iridium-tipped spark plugs are good for 120,000 miles in most situations. My wife's 2000 RX300 is pushing 92,000 miles and the plugs are still strong and clean. The three front plugs are easy to get to once you've removed the dust cover because there they are right in front of you. The three rear plugs are the worst excuse for proper spark plug service design placement that I've ever owned in 35 years of driving. Good luck getting to them without an assortment of wrenchs, extensions, tiny girlie hands, and the ability to bend your arms like a circus contortionist.

1990LS400 hit it right on the money as far as this particular subject is concerned. Only use credit cards that reward you with dollars or points towards something you always need or use. Always pay your credit card bill in full when it arrives each month - never carry a balance and therefore pay those exhorbitant interest rates. That's just pure financial stupidity. Follow these rules using a rewards credit card and you'll be playing with the elite 2% of the smartest credit card holders who know how to play the game correctly. In our case, our auto insurance is with State Farm. State Farm offers a no-annual-fee VISA card that rewards you with "State Farm Dollars" on every purchase you make, hoping of course that you'll only make minimum credit card bill payments each month and allow them to gouge you with absurd interest rates as a result. These "State Farm Dollars" can be used to pay for the State Farm services that you use. We charge thousands of dollars on this VISA card each month for purchases that we would have made anyway - household expenses, gas, meals, furniture, clothing, groceries, hardware, etc. But when the monthly VISA bill arrives in the mail, it is always paid in full. That's my lifetime rule - if you charge it, you pay for it when the bill comes. No excuses and no exceptions - period. But the net result is that we build up enough "State Farm Dollars" each year to pay our auto insurance in full using the rewards dollars that are deposited into our "State Farm Dollars" account each month based upon our previous month's State Farm VISA Card charges. So we basically get free car insurance. Anybody else out there remotely interested in this program? Check with your local State Farm agent for the details. Be smart with credit cards. Make them work for you instead of you working to pay them off. Decades ago I carried American Express, MasterCard, Diner's Club, Discover, etc., all for business purposes. Now I won't bother with a credit card unless it is free and rewards me big-time for using it. So I only carry two credit cards now. Follow this plan and you'll improve your financial situation in a hurry. Just don't break the rule of always paying your credit card bill in full.

Only the gullible allow themselves to get duped by the media. Any distraction in the cockpit will increase the chances for accidents. For the most part, using a cell phone requires more attention and brainpower than adjusting the radio, eating, drinking a beverage, etc. Many drivers do not have the dexterity or the ability to subdivide their attention spans to handle the multitasking required. They believe that they do, but their driving capabilities often prove them wrong. You want to be able to continue to use your cell phone, so you'll vigorously defend that outcome. Others want cell phones to be outlawed while driving, so they'll vigorously defend that outcome. Both factions have the right to do so. In the meantime, cell phone-related crash statistics continue to climb, as do the injuries and fatalities associated with them. Routine observation on our highways and byways tell most of us that there are too many drivers out there who can't manage to safely drive and use a cell phone at the same time. This is one of those unfortunate situations where for the good of the motoring public, the use of cell phones needs to be severely restricted in moving vehicles. Perhaps a compromise would involve some sort of attention span / dexterity test that one must pass in order to drive with a cell phone. But many phone providers as well as federal and state authorities may not be able to agree on how such a test should be designed and administered. But in the general publics' hands, cell phones are dangerous when combined with driving a vehicle. That is becoming clearer with each passing year.