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  1. If you really want to know what is not to like about it: I would like a car that drives without polluting. I do not at all mind if it is powered with a battery as long as it is not made in a factory in China using slaves and where the power to the factory come from burning coal. Of course it should not be a battery that would make the car having a much limited range when temperature get down to zero, or some days below that. It would also be needed that the materials to make the battery can be obtained without destroying the planet searching for the materials. Not to forget that there got to be so much of these materials that there is enough to make batteries enough to convert all cars to electric cars. The materials we use to make batteries now are not available in such quantities and the batteries we have now have very limited time where they are holding charge and when no longer really great very expensive to get the materials the batteries are made of out for reuse. That the batteries should be able to keep the power without losing too much when not used a couple of days just like a gasoline car is also useful. Of course it would not be funny if driving through Europe to visit family I would not be able to charge the battery more or less at same speed as filling gasoline on the one I have now. If I am asking too much maybe a battery powered car is not for me. Or anybody else that would like to leave the planet in as good a condition as we received it so our children will not have to repair all the damages we have made to the planet while we were searching for easy found solutions that are actually not solutions. EV cars, the way they are made now, are not polluting less – yes they are – in the streets of my town, but making the batteries, transporting them, charging them with the very “in no way at all” green power where we live actually make EV cars more polluting than driving a well kept little gasoline car. I sure wish that we could find a material that could make batteries last a long time and not just the 6 – 12 years with steadily losing ability to keep charge. It would also be nice if the battery was light and not hard on the tyres that deteriorate more the heavier the car is. If the new batteries were so light that they could be used in air-planes that would really help reduce pollution as the private cars we talk so much about actually are not a major polluter. Why can politicians not understand that even with all they do now for the environment pollution is not going down but increasing? EV cars the way they are now - are for people not thinking about environment: 60% of the electricity in Spain is made from non-renewable s coal, oil, gas; 35% from nuclear; only 5% from renewable sources; just saw that in the electricity bill today. That the 35% from nuclear are not damaging the climate now could put that figure up to 40%. Still 60% of the energy put in electric cars is dirty and utterly polluting. Worldwide numbers are not even that good. This explain why charging an electric car is not really doing any good for the environment. And when the factories making the batteries to electric cars are not informing from where the energy that is used in the factories come from: mean it could be quite a good deal not green, more grey or even black. Considering above-mentioned numbers driving electric cars pollute between 15 and 60% more than if we continued to use the gasoline cars we are driving in now. Would not need new cars with new batteries, just new oil in the engines now and then. https://www.asoc.org/learn/antarctic-ice-and-rising-sea-levels/ But as it maybe already too late to change the way climate is going now, we can just continue the headless way we are used to: https://abcnews.go.com/International/late-prevent-significant-melting-west-antarctic-ice-shelf/story?id=104144755
    2 points
  2. 32 years old, your mechanic is spot on. New belt, water pump and tensioner. You can buy the complete kit, OEM Aisin parts, from Rock Auto for a good price. Your mechanic will charge you about 8 hours for the job. Plugs should be fine, but i would do coolant, oil, filter and brake flush just becuase of the age, unless you know when they were last done. A few treatments with in tank injector cleaners and a then new fuel filter would also be a good idea.
    1 point
  3. Thanks Les Lex for your input, When I failed to find any blown fuses, I reported back to third party refurbished hybrid battery installer. They were at a loss and weren't interested in sending their tech back to resolve the issue. They said "go to the dealership" we will stand behind our work. The dealership confirmed (after a $180 diagnostic fee) there is power to the radio and no ground issues. It is indeed dead. Quote from dealer, $2910.00 for a new radio + lcd screen. No refurbished unit in their back stock. So this company is on the hook for $3090.00, if they honor their service. I'm not going to expect them to pay for a brand new radio to replace a ten year old one but I do expect to be reimbursed for the dealer diagnosis fee, the cost of a used unit and installation fee. Jury is still out as I fight that battle. Just a tip for those replacing a broken radio, there is a number below the volume control to left, for me its a 6 digits. This should match replacement unit or risk non compatibility issues.
    1 point
  4. We have a 2022 NX350h and from day 1 we've had carplay problems. It pairs about half the time, and reading or sending messages using siri we get a garbled message 'it says, it says it says' over and over again. Can't send or read messages using siri. We've been taking it in to the dealership, first to their IT department, now to the service department. No resolution and we've had the car almost 2 years. Its beyond frustrating. Wish I'd never traded my car to get this new improved one!
    1 point
  5. I burn only the highest octane that is available, Usually 91 here. I never use anything else, Nor would I...Not even in my lawn mower 😉
    1 point
  6. I recently purchase a GX 2019 with 36k miles on it, I also use costco fuel, is working out ok. I’m averaging 17.8 per gallon suburban City driving. Always on eco mode and shifting to S mode if high rise bridge or road.
    1 point
  7. You are right replacing all the studs to fit the spare will cause studs to be too long for the sport wheels.
    1 point
  8. My son has a 2000 Lexus rx300. His radio stopped working. He removed the screen and the preset buttons for the radio and cut the ribbon going to the radio and climate controls. Added a aftermarket radio. Now his AC and heat does not work. My question is this. If he buys a whole new assembly. Screen, radio ,climate controls, bezel etc. used off EBay. Can you just plug and play or will there be any programming that has to be done for it to work again.
    1 point
  9. Thanks for your thoughts. No he hasn't, and I suspect that they are not worn out....although the problem with my struts is leakage and therefore they "bottom" out over humps and bumps. Research via Google suggests the complete assembly, but a case can be made either way. Once again, I thank you for your reply.
    1 point
  10. It says above. It needs to be in the ready mode. I don’t know why you don’t get it?
    1 point
  11. Issue seems to have been resolved by my dealership. Thanks
    1 point
  12. If latest info from BMW, Honda, Mercedes, Toyota (alphabetically mentioned) are correct I may still have a chance to get a hydrogen car, combustion or fuel cell, as long as I do not have to be in a battery powered car it is fine with me. Toyota will change automotive forever: its hydrogen combustion engine will retire EVs: by La Grada - 02/26/2024 14:00 Mercedes has realized the fraud of EVs. That is why they are once again betting on combustion cars Pininfarina Enigma GT debuts at Geneva Motor Show with hydrogen powered V6 Honda Reveals 2025 Honda CR-V e:FCEV BMW and Mercedes are in talk about finding a way to get hydrogen rolled out in the EU and if they can get Honda, KIA and Toyota on the wagon there may be money enough to get governments interested in helping and it could possibly happen. Supposedly Honda would want to get markedshare and they have 1 car ready and 1 more is to be ready for sale in 2027 so they could be interested in participating and Toyota was very slow to start EV cars for reasons they have not informed, but selling cars that have a limited possible lifespan was not what Toyota has been doing so far. I know I shall not believe all I read - and I do not - but Mercedes has publicly informed that they will continue gasoline car production after 2030 and their market-share immediately went 6% up.
    1 point
  13. Yes the Toyota dealer has the daig tool as lexus they use tech stream I like the software it only works on Toyota or lexus my subscription for that cost me about 2,000 a year but worth it and is the only way to get the latest ECM updates
    1 point
  14. Already checked the AC drain and that was fine, not to mention I haven't been using it. Next I fished weed-eater line down the two front drain holes of the moonroof. That still didn't solve it. Next I put a tarp over the vehicle and, next rain, it still didn't solve it, though it may have reduced it. So it should have anything to do with the moon roof. It is only the floor that is affected and it begins in the front passenger side, and in a well behind the front passenger seat where the seat belt attaches. I'm not sure if it begins in one area and then is draining along the floor of the car to the other area, or if it affects both at once. The answer would apparently lie behind what is hidden behind the trim of the front passenger door. Are there photos online anywhere that shows me what is behind that, and also perhaps a tutorial on how to remove that trim (I'll also need to if I want to pull back the carpet and really make sure it dries out)? On the photos attached, I highlight the depressed area in front with a paper towel and put a blue strip where a line of moisture first appeared after a rain. In the rear photo, I blue tape shows the area where water accumulates by seat belt and a strip showing the general route where water may be traveling between back and front. No problems stand out when inspecting weather stripping. I wonder if a drain is clogged somewhere. Could anyone point me in the right direction? I'm sure a dealer would charge an arm and a leg just to diagnose it.
    1 point
  15. No I used same diameter line the barb fitting is what will go into the other component the pictures will help out a great deal of. The understanding of it I have a master cylinder to change in a few days so I may go though the drain process as well
    1 point
  16. I have sevral diag tools the cost is way more than a dealer diag my tools cost around 5,000 for each one as there is different tools for diag not sure how far you are from me if u was close I would be more than happy to diag the issue there is a few things we can check when you have the time
    1 point
  17. I want to thank you for posting your fix. I used it today it worked. My battery was drained and then I recharged it. Afterwards the engine would crank and try to catch but seemed like it wasn't getting fuel for fire. I had spark but no fuel. I was convinced something in the security system had immobilized my car. I had a strong battery, good starter and alternator. I had no problem with my car before the battery was drained. I found this post from 2010 and tried it in 2024. From the fuse box under the hood near battery I removed the fuse box cover. I swapped out the Horn Relay (R16) with the Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) relay (R17). The relays were the same size, shape and original Denso brand. When I I hit the key it fired right up. Thank You Lexus Owners Club!
    1 point
  18. Most cheaper tools will read the sensors but not what the ECM is reading so the tool will show everything fine but in the ecm it will not as far as the dome light that is a loose bulb
    1 point
  19. Another possible option is a Toyota dealership. I have saved hundreds of dollars by having them service our hybrid which has an identical powertrain as the Toyota highlander of the same era.
    1 point
  20. And if the old sensors were not deleted from the ECM before the new sensors were added the ecm is most likely confused I guessing they were not programed correctly or there not the correct sensor not sure if you took a picture of the new ones before they were installed as I would be able to tell you if there correct
    1 point
  21. I have a tool that can read twice as much information that tool is reading and as always launching a parts canon never ends well I would have diag the issue before the sensors were replaced honestly it will take a high end scan tool to correctly diag those sensors and the ecm that controls them and did you replace them with OEM the only ones I found that work correctly is Denso you can get those on Amazon for about 50 dollars for one
    1 point
  22. Might have missed it, but do you have a spare tire that might have a TPMS sensor?
    1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. I'd really like some inexpensive ideas/options. What have people done that worked? At only 87,000 miles but from 2007, I don't know how much longer this catalytic converter is good for anyhow. Any idea? A few ideas I've come across: Some police departments, cities, and even shops are doing free or cheap etching. I read somewhere in Oregon the Pep Boys was doing it for free. I've seen a bunch of programs in other cities, but they're usually one-off. This etching product looks relatively easy and affordable, but their website doesn't make it easy to buy. https://www.mastergard.com/catetch-labels I think some stripes of bright paint would work (check out VHT Flameproof paints https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-flameproof-coating) You could stencil in your license plate or VIN or just do some bright stripes. People talk about the cages, wires, rebar, etc. but there are a bunch of more expensive options. My neighbor got theirs replaced and had a wire/metal bar system installed for $400. It has metal cables welded to the cat and the frame in multiple places and a lone metal bar also welded along the cat. Seems like it'll do the trick, but was $400
    1 point
  25. What's the advice for leaving RX450h in garage for a year or more (without starting it). Detach battery? or not? Will the hybrid batteries die? After returning for 1 month without operating it, I found the computer had shut down all power by itself. It started fine. No changes.
    1 point
  26. I really like the car care nut very smart and yes dont run the fuel tank empty all the time and the filter is part of the pump assembly
    1 point
  27. Yes you will need to remove the inner fender liner now there will not be no big access point but you will be able to use a long screw driver to remove the rubber garment as far as making the drain hole bigger there is absolutely no reason for that when the weather warms up a bit here i will go back and take it apart and take pictures of the process so everyone can have a better understanding of the design
    1 point
  28. It was not the easy way most take but I pulled out the existing line and cut it off and added a plastic barb fitting and crimp clamps to make sure it would not come apart then I had to remove the fender liner to get access to that drain poped it out measured the length of a new line I needed same diameter as factory added another barb fitting and crimped the line side the other side went down in the rubber garment then I pushed it back down into place the job is time-consuming but I am not a fan of drilling holes
    1 point
  29. Hi, Sandie. Have you thought about Autotrader.com? Placing an ad in it does cost about $50. I have sold a few cars and some auto parts on craigslist, but I would not recommend going that route if you would be selling the car, yourself. I most recently sold a 2014 Mazda 3 to a woman who brough along her male friend. There is also Cars & Bids: Auctions of cool modern cars, trucks, and SUVs (carsandbids.com) I haven't gone this route but Doug DeMuro, the guy who started this sight, is a San Diego native. He previously worked for Autotrader.com
    1 point
  30. I have a NX350H with same problem. Very frustrating. I have to put the car in Park, stop the engine and open and close the door. Then restart the car. That seems to work most of the time. .
    1 point
  31. Hi Dave, no I haven't check for codes I must buy a license for my diagnostic tool so I ask first, my RX have 112000 miles, the only thing happen since my issue is a discharge of the 12v battery.
    1 point
  32. The key is in the owner's manual wording. Is 91 octane fuel recommended or required? If it is required, you should not use anything else. If a safeguard like a knock sensor malfunctions, the result could be engine damage. Costco has good fuel prices for premium. That's what I use in two of my cars that require that grade.
    1 point
  33. Sorry. Can't open that image format.
    1 point
  34. 2015 rx450h - couldn’t find the drain holes for the sunroof. Then saw the diagrams posted on another site. The drain hole is on the front side (on each side). Ran a weed wackier line (1.9) with a point crafted with wire cutters at a slant down the hole. Water immediately ran out on the driveway.
    1 point
  35. I had the same problem wet floor right front and rear passenger side .... with my 2007 Lexus ES350 .. It was the AC drain hose that came off. it is located on the front passenger foot area on the left hand side .. see pictures.... I thought it was the sunroof but no leak holes are on this model like the RX models... I hope this helps !!
    1 point
  36. Hi Ron_S, I had a really hard time accessing that drain but made some progress using a bent wire hanger and scraping around down there. Then I built a very thin shop Vac extension using rolled up paper and was able to pull out a lot of debris. The other thing I did was bang, rock and wash the body molding below that drain...the black plastic running below the doors. A TON of dirt came out when I did that. I think that was affecting the draining as well. It's been two years and I've had no more issues. It's still a crap design but it's hanging in for now. Hope that helps a bit.
    1 point
  37. Having the same problem ... 😞 i think I got two suspects for water coming in at passenger area and then moving towards back seat of passenger area: 1. tested all four sunroof drain holes, front two are kind of slow, i noticed water drips from three-four places at the bottom black plastic rail/trim (near front passenger tire and also between passenger and rear passenger seats) when I pour water in front passenger side drain hole on the sunroof. which makes me think, the blockage is at the body frame(footwell) where drain pipe drops water and it got clogged up, or slow to drain water from here to ground. to clean this part, what do you suggest? should i remove the electric parts ? not sure how another user(zeppo) got the pic of it. i think its the culprit in my case, let me know if you have any suggestions(attached pic from prior reply from another user) 2. Another suspect is the leaves/debris below wiper in the front windshield since i was parking under the tree 😞 i can clean the leaves etc but not sure how to open and elan under it , just to make sure there is no blockages from this drain.
    1 point
  38. I made a tool out of stainless steel wire and used the hole that the water was overflowing out of. I was able to clear out the drain again with the tool. tested the drain by pouring a gallon of water from the sunroof. no more flooding and the water came out of the seams of the chasis as it should. No need to mess with the electrical or extend the hose. It took about 20 minutes of poking around to feel for the drain hole. It feels rubbery rather than metal sheet metal so you can tell if you are hitting the hole. i tried attaching pics but it doesn;t seem to work for me.
    1 point
  39. The hole is set into a conical piece that acts as a drain to catch water coming out of the hose. I've seen speculation that in a case like this the hose has shrunk a few inches over time from where it was once inserted into that hole, but I don't think that is the case at all. I think the design is just as you see, with the hose stopping a couple of inches above the drain. The compartment is water tight at the bottom, but when the hole gets clogged it fills with water until finally pouring out a small hole in the sidewall of the compartment and into the interior. Blowing out the drain hose with compressed air could solve a hose blockage, but you would probably have to get lucky for the air to dislodge the debris blocking the drain hole at the bottom of the compartment and not have it fall right back into the drain and clog it again fairly soon after. The hose I rigged to my shop vac with duct tape is 3/8" in diameter, and can actually just fit down into the drain hole if you feel your way around. I vacuumed the sludgy stuff out of the bottom of the compartment and drain hole as best I could by blindly feeling my way around it with my hand down in the compartment. The 3/8" hose will also just fit snuggly inside the moonroof drain hose that you see in the pic. That hose hangs freely, so you can pull it out of the compartment if you want to fish a line through it from the bottom, or as I did, vaccum it with the smaller 3/8" hose (it didn't yield anything from it in my case). After cleaning it the best I could I poured a little water into the compartment and watched it finally come out of the bottom of the car. It can take a bit of time for it to appear and not yield everything you poured into it, because it drains into the plastic compartment that runs below the doors on the exterior . But as you pour more down it, it eventually pools inside there enough to where it starts pouring out more readily. Some of what I poured in actually made its way down that exterior compartment and exited near the rear door in addition to what came out in the front end of it behind the front tire. I also ran some weed-eater line down into the drain hole, but you can't see where it exits because it just takes a turn and goes into that exterior compartment (which someone referred to as the "rocker panel".
    1 point
  40. Now it is impossible to see down inside the compartment, but you can carefully insert a camera in there with the flash on and view it that way. I used a regular sized iPhone 6, but you just have to be careful not to scratch it or drop it in the hole if you don't have screen protection. Oh, by the way, before I did this, I rigged small hose to my shop vac and cleaned out any standing water. Here is the view of what the drain hole should look like (after I cleaned it out) and what mine looked like clogged up.
    1 point
  41. There hasn't been a post on this for a while so I thought I would add my story and solution in hopes someone can learn from my experience. I had the same problem with the idle. Car would not start unless I gave it gas and would die when I let off the accelerator. This is classic Idle control valve behavior. So I looked at AllData and the procedure is to remove the throttle body...I didn't want to go through all that so I looked for another way. Bottom line is that you really do need to remove the Throttle Body to do it right. The IACV is NOT just the black part pictured above...that is just the step motor. The valve is the assembly underneath and has 4 VERY tight screws. I had a hard time removeing them, even with the TB off the car. Removal of the TB is not for the not so mechanicaly inclined...there are difficult nuts and bolts to reach, hoses to remove (including coolant hoses) and the bolt on the back side (12mm) attaches a bracket and is very hard to reach. The coolant hoses need to be plugged while you have the TB out of the car. Make sure you take a very good look at how the hoses are attached...it is possible to attach a coolant hose to an air port if you are not careful. Once the TB is off, flip it over on a bench and remove the 4 screws that attach it to the TB. Be careful, there is a rubber/silicone gasket that is somewhat difficult to get back into the recesses when you reassemble. In the valve housing, you will see the actual valve. It rotates to open and close, metering the hole size, allowing air to bypass the butter-fly valves in the TB. Tha is how it controls the idle. Spray with carb cleaner until it is clean and the valve rotates freely. There is some freeplay between the valve shaft and the magnetized head. I was concerned that this was an indication of failure, but when reassembled, it worked fine. Give the opening in the TB a good cleaning. You may as well clean out all the ports where vacume hoses attach. Re assemble the TB. When placing the TB back in the car, slip the TB over the intalke manifold studs (you should use a new gasket but i couldn't get one over the Memorial Day weekend) and just start the nuts on the studs. Then try to start the bracket bolt (back side of TB). This was a little difficult...you have to do it by feel and it is very tight for your 12mm wrench. Once started, snug tighten. Then back to the intake manifold studs, snug fit first then tighten them to 14 ft-lbs or 200 kg-cm. I would attach the coolant hoses next, starting with the one on the bottom rear. After that, everthing is reverse order. One last gotcha...it is possible to incorrectly reinstall the black motor back to the valve housing. Make sure the electrical connector is at the bottom of the assembly. It is a pain to install everything in order to test the car...If you do not re-attach the Mass Air Flow sensor on the filter housing, the car will start and idle...but you will get a check engine light and it will sputter on reving the engine. This is kind of long, but I spent 4 1/2 hrs today fixing this and wish I had known what I know now...I would still do the job, but it would have been better knowing what I was getting into. :D
    1 point
  42. You should check it after a 10 mile run or longer.... After stopping on level ground, rund the gear shift back to Low, then up to Park. Keep engine in Park and idling, Pull stick and wipe, then check again. You're are correct about th 2 quart / 3 quart deal.........it's a little tricky!!!
    1 point
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