So in the attached image you can see the list of dtcs I have on a 2000 rx 300 AWD
I have tested coils and replaced spark plugs on 2-4-6, all should be in perfect shape.
I have tested unplugging the coils I could easily access with the entire intake assembled, which seemed to not affect the idle, leading me to believe that perhaps those spark plugs in the back are no good.
I am going to head back out now to work on getting to and replacing the 1-3-5 spark plugs, if I can manage.
1. With the intake and throttle body(s?) removed, is it worth any attempt to remove the o2 sensor from above? I tried from below several times, with PB blaster let to sit overnight, to no avail.
2. As I was taking off the intake filter lid, I could swear that one of the two "vacuum" hoses directly behind it, may have been unattached. I followed the one that is attached and it seems to lead to the Fuel Injector rail for 2-4-6. With this logic, would it make sense that the other tube leads to 1-3-5 injectors, and all this could have been from the vacuum leak causing those cylinders to run lean/misfire?
3. Is there anything else I should check while I have the throttle body's off (and cleaned up beautifully) like the MAF, etc? I do have a multimeter, but I have only tried using it a couple of times and am not 100% on which items to check for which values.
4. Is there anyone here with any insight on what values to check on my Code Scanner's "Live Data"? I found a great OBD2 scanner, but I don't know how to use these tools to verify the fix...
My plan now is to replace the 1-3-5 spark plugs, reassemple the intake, verifying all connections are made and see how she runs... but I will work at the o2 sensor or anything else possible, while it's apart.
Thank you if you read this! I am new to the forum, as I just purchased this car for my wife, so thanks in advance, if anyone hears this!
I recently acquired a 1999 Lexus ES300 from a craigslist seller who had removed the TRAC OFF and Check Engine Light bulbs from the instrument panel. I found this out when I went to get my car smog checked and upon investigation, it was pretty obvious that the instrument panel had been tampered with.
When I took everything apart this past weekend I was able to clear three of the five codes that were present but the ones that came back were these knock sensor fails/malfunctions. I believe my problem is that I replaced the OEM sensors with $25 junk from amazon. When it comes to these knock sensors, I've learned that they are incredibly sensitive and if they are not detecting the exact frequencies that the ECU is searching for it will probably throw the CEL.
The problem with these codes is that they will put your vehicle into "limp" mode and disable OD. Since I'm already in too deep to just flip this vehicle out of my life, I've decided to bite the bullet and purchase the OEM sensors for $160+ ea. I'll post an update to the forum when I complete the installation this weekend.
Hopefully this will help someone having similar problems down the line.
Hello My engine and trac off lights have been on for several months (code 71 came up) and I have not noticed any problems until the other day. I started the car (95 sc300) and it seemed to hesitate, and then ran normal for a couple miles until the check engine light started to flash and the car died. I'm wondering if just an EGR issue would cause the engine to shut off, or if anyone thinks it's possibly a timing issue (maybe starting the car caused enough of a rattle to mess up the old belt?) but like I said, it started kinda rough, ran fine for a couple of miles, and the CEL light flashed and it died. I'm wondering if it's more likely a timing issue, egr issue, or perhaps both? Could a timing issue show up as code 71? Thank you!