I know this trend has a lot of about it already I have read most all of the ones I can find. I bought a lexus RX300 from someone that told me it had 55k on a brand new motor and everything was good but knock sensor came up with in a day code 300. Fist attempt cheap ones on ebay worked for a day. Second attempt ones purchased on ebay from a place in CO that came out of a RX 300 1999 these worked great for about 120 miles then it would fault for both banks 325 and 330. It would reset and I could get about 60 to 80 miles then come back up with both then it would come up with only 325. While waiting for a new harness I installed a bypass to ride off both signals into one it worked for 30 miles.
Through out all this I talked to the guy I got it from he said the car had sat for a couple year in a field what makes sense of the rats nest I found on top of the sensors The first time. So this I just spent the last two days redoing it again using the same sensors and a new harness. Using multimeter I have checked all the wirring to the sensors and the black and white wires to the computer. I set the meter to dc millivolts and beat on the block both banks would show voltage changing. But when I plug the connector into the one that feeds into main wiring harness and do the same test I get nothing on the pins that feed the computer the white wires in pins 3 and 4 show the voltage changing but those ground out to the connector on the back of the intake manifold. I get nothing on pins one and three. Do not have an ossiliscope to properly test. Thought with Both sensors failing then moving tto one it was probably the other after market wiring harness.
Note the sensors I am using now have 71 on them the ones I pulled out orginally had 71N on them
Other issues is that I am not even sure what year the motor is I was only told it was brand new timing belt done 45K ago.
After researching the pvc valve it had the new style metal one in it and they came out after 01 I believe.
The valves had a lot of carbon build up on them cleaned all off at one point with bypass I was hitting 28mpg now I am hitting 12 to 14.
Things I noticed during my testing through out looking at forums and other sites its says the shielding wires for to J10 I have no idea where that is but they ohm out to back of manifold. Not sure why I get nothing once the conecctor is connector to wiring harness unless the ecu is grounding them inside of it but the voltage will change when I move to white wires.
One site I found says white wires connect to the computer not the back of manifold so maybe the 3.0 in this had a different set up then 1999 body.
Since the car had sat for so long I have been running about four takes of premium first two with lucas gas treatment then one can bg44 last two with a little sea foam.
I cant afford the oem sensors lost job due to no car thrn I got this and been beating my headd trying to figure out whats wrong the first time it was 330 after a while it was only 325 after the last new wringing harness install its back to both and only after two miles with the same sensors that were getting me 120 miles without code.
If anyone has any input of other possible causes or where this J10 connector is to check out. I have also changed all the plugs and last time uses all new gaskets preformed a mfs cleaning and just got done doing the IAC cleaning lot of black stuff came out. Throttle body valves and intakes were all cleaned out first time around.
Besides the rear brakes and doing thiese knock sensors three times there is a slight flicker in the gauges when I turn on the lights and not sure if its suppose to show a light on the dash but when I hit the power mode on gearshifter switch no light on das the snow one does work
Please help I need top get this running right so I can get to work. and its getting cold I really don't want to do this again when its below zero with no garage.
When the thing was running good with no codes it was great getting around through the woods and it got up and moved
Also I did try swaping around some of the coil packs to see if it made any difference nothing
When I finish getting it back together I was going to run some marvel mystery oil and sea form oin the oil for a day or so to see if maybe build up in the crank case is cccaudign them to go on and off
Right now I am so fed up with the car had it for 6 weeks and haven't been able to drive it much at all. Im at the pointI would just like to get the knock sensors to go away for so can sell it if need be but I don't have another car.
I know this is long but I have been at this for weeks now cant find the difference between 71 and 71N same manufacturer to paroind to buy anything else off line due to all the fake stuff. And with all money out on other things can't swing the 298 x2 for new sensors from dealer along with gaskets and another two days of labor.
why did the sensors work for awhile then not after new harness wand why when using multimeter does it stop at connector but work on other two pins and if the motor did only have 55k why knocks out already and not clearing up after all the fuel treamtment.
My engine wiring harness is pretty much shot, the wires are brittle, and the connectors are breaking from wear and tear. I've searched around a bit on Google with little luck so I'm seeing if anyone knows of a company, website, person that does complete engine wiring harnesses for a decent price for a 1994 Lexus ES300. I can't even seem to find them at the junkyards around me.
Ok, so i pulled a dumb and challenged myself to build a car in 1 week, putting a Lexus 1uz onto a w58 into a Mk3 Supra,
but I hit a major roadblock... My engine won't run, it'll crank but nothing more. I've been trying to get my engine to run for the past three days, literally have been working on it for 10 hours each day at least, and have somehow gotten nowhere.
What I have -
-I have the 1UZFE VVTi engine (I believe it came out of a 99-00 Lexus SC400) just the motor, no transmission
-I have the ECU (that I believe is the original stock ECU)
-I have the stock wiring engine wiring loom which came pre-plugged in and all that
My engine again
Wiring loom and ECU
What I've done -
-Connected the EB2 (2) wire which is black with red stripe (I believe is ignition 1) directly to the positive to the battery
-Connected the EB2 (3) wire which is also black with red stripe but physically larger(I believe the starter power wire) directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is black with orange stripe with silver dots directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is yellow with black stripe directly to the positive on the battery
-Put in new SAE 5W-30 oil, there is an oil leak but it has enough oil to run
top left EB2(3), middle bottom EB2(2), top right EB1(4)
What I've tried -
-Used starter fluid spray directly in the air intake, did NOT work
-I plugged in a blade fuse in the power and ground wire(i think) of the transmission plug to try to trick it into thinking it was in park because maybe the ECU wouldn't let it run, did NOT work
-Bought and connected a MAF sensor (from a junkyard Toyota) and plugged it right in without an air intake, i was told it would run without one but got one anyways because i also heard it the ECU won't let it run without MAF input, did NOT work
-Looped (plug a wire in power running to ground) O2 sensors near transmission plug, tested with and without, did NOT work
-Cleaned spark plugs for healthy ground
-Tested power to ECU, it was receiving power (12.6 Volts approx)
-Probably a lot more but writing this from my crappy memory now
MAF sensor plugged into MY engine
Transmission plug with blade fuse
Final words -
- I believe the ECU is not sending signals to the spark plugs, therefore there's no combustion, I don't know why
- I have spent hours and hours and hours on lots of forums trying to figure this out myself, obviously couldn't solve the problem
- I may just be missing something important, honestly I don't know now
- I tried to be as descriptive as can be because I know that helps others diagnose the problem
- If you have a question just ask, and I'll answer it to the best of my capabilities or I will honestly tell you I don't know
- PLEASE TEXT OR CALL ME AT 512-720-1166 IF YOU THINK YOU CAN HELP, OR HAVE A SUGGESTION
More engine photos -
This is my second LS460. My first one was a 2009. My current model is a 2014 LS460 F-Sport. My previous LS had a lock actuator problem where four locks failed. It initially happened under warranty and they said they replaced the 3 actuators. Then it happened again after the warranty was up and wanted $1500 per lock actuator (same 3 locks again). I fought them and was able to substantially discount the cost. Anyways, the same problem happened again with my current car. Again, driver side front and back locos and front passenger side lock malfunctioned. It is covered under the warranty.
Am I just cursed or is this a frequent problem? The Lexus service center teller me it never happens and that it is rare. It has happened too me three times now with two different cars. All same locks. I am so bothered by this and of course they don't have these parts in stock so I have to break into my car every day which is embarrassing.....
Can anyone give me some insight?