Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 94 ls400. Changed TB and WP. Both cams aligned with marks with CS TDC. NO start. No code.
landar Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Check connections very carefully. I have heard of many who forgot to reconnect something.
landar Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 If you believe that the timing is now correct and all electrical wires and sensors are connected then you will have to do some basic tests. I would check for spark and if you have that, check for fuel delivery. Did you happen to take the distributor caps and rotors off?
Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Starting to think I misinterpreted the Lh cam mark. There are two marks on the back of the pulley, but only one has a corresponding mark on the front
sha4000 Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 i would think that it would still start even if the timing is off.
Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 It was off by a lot. Maybe ten teeth on Lh cam.
landar Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 The ECU may be cutting spark due to the gross error in timing. You are fortunate that the 94 is non-interference! 1
Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 I originally took it to a shop to have the TB belt done. They said it was ready after a week and went to get it. It started fine and I paid them $500. When I left in the car it wouldn't go over 20 mph, so I took it back. After a week, I came back and it still wasn't ready, so I asked for a refund, at which point the owner through a bucket of nails at me. Just noticed they left a huge piece of a spark plug wire in one of the plug holes...it's a lot of fun trying to get it out.
landar Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 ...and the plot thickens ^_^ Is this the same car that had the broken crank sensor bolt? http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/83030-broken-crankshaft-sensor-mount-on-oil-pump-timing-cover/
Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 yes. Had to get a new oil pump. Just redid TB. Everything was lined up perfect and safety wired. Install tensioner, rotate CS twice and the right cam appears to be one tooth CCW of the mark...
Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Will it run rough if I say foget about it and put it together? Why did the right cam move backwards?
Vegan Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Should one cam be slightly aft before applying tension?
landar Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Either it will run rough or not deliver the performance it should. There are only a few reasons why the timing would move. 1) never correct in the first place. 2) tensioner not working properly (loose belt) 3) crank key not in the proper slot. Both cams would be off with that, however. If you have had to remove this belt and redo multiple times, it may be time to throw it out and start off with a known good belt. Why? Because sometimes due to handling and getting contaminants on the belt, it is best to replace even though it is 'new'. If it is clean and the markings are good, then you can reuse. But if you were to say, accidentally drop it in a pan of oil or antifreeze, or otherwise get it contaminated, then its time to pitch.
landar Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Should one cam be slightly aft before applying tension? No. Should be dead on before tension and stay that way with tension.
Vegan Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 Think I got it. Rotated 8 times and everything is still lined up.
sha4000 Posted January 5, 2015 Posted January 5, 2015 I would just start over. Don't put it back together and don't get frustrated. You have all the help you need right here, especially with randal on the job lol. Good thing your in Cali, at least you can still work in some reasonable weather depending on what part your located.
sha4000 Posted January 5, 2015 Posted January 5, 2015 Did not see the last post. So are you good to go?
Vegan Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 Have to finish putting it back together, and hope it starts!
Vegan Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 It runs "OK." Has CEL and code 13- Rpm #2. Dumps PS fluid when I turn it off, maybe air in system? Going to do some reading on code 13. Ever heard of the length of the crank shaft pos sensor bolt causing issues? Everything was great until that fell off, and then had to change the oil pump. I keep adding to this. Not completely sure about the spark plug wires, though am too poor right now to buy more...will ohm them.
Vegan Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 Just quit running and won't start. Code 12.
landar Posted January 6, 2015 Posted January 6, 2015 RPM 1 and RPM 2. Meaning the ECU is still not happy with the cam timing. Seems like something is slipping or not properly aligned, tension is bad..maybe. Or a sensor is bad or loose. Sorry to say, but check your timing belt alignment again and check your crank pulley for proper keying into the crankshaft. You did torque the crank bolt to 180 ft-lbs?
Vegan Posted January 6, 2015 Author Posted January 6, 2015 I...didn't torque that much. Impact wrench? (a few hours later) Just saw a video where they cut holes in a 2x4 to hold the pulley while being torqued. I cleaned all the sensor connectors with contact cleaner. Apart from this, not sure what could be wrong. The tensioner was very tight and had to rig door hinges in a clamp to get it to where I could get a pin in. Only thing I didn't change other than that is the idler pulley and tension pulley.
landar Posted January 6, 2015 Posted January 6, 2015 I...didn't torque that much. Impact wrench? (a few hours later) Just saw a video where they cut holes in a 2x4 to hold the pulley while being torqued. I cleaned all the sensor connectors with contact cleaner. Apart from this, not sure what could be wrong. The tensioner was very tight and had to rig door hinges in a clamp to get it to where I could get a pin in. Only thing I didn't change other than that is the idler pulley and tension pulley. Hmmmm. It is very important to get the crankshaft pulley bolt retightened properly. I mean, it will run without proper torque but could loosen up down the road. And it is spec'd at 181 ft-lbs which is quite a lot of force. And yes, you need some thing to hold the crank while torquing. Many choose this tool -> http://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420550356&sr=8-1&keywords=sly64300 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now