billydpowell Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Craig, sorry it didnt work for you, mine is still going strong.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sha4000 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 6 hours ago, billydpowell said: Craig, sorry it didnt work for you, mine is still going strong.. I did not have an issue billy, I was responding to the previous poster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moet_lowlyfe Posted October 15, 2018 Share Posted October 15, 2018 On 2/14/2018 at 4:52 PM, Ronstang66 said: Starter on my 92 went out back in 2009, little did I know how intensive the replacement process. Luckily mine was just burnt contacts which cost me $5 to replace.....unluckily my car has never run correctly since and sits now 9 years later. It runs but has a miss I cannot pinpoint. The plastic on all the wiring was so brittle many connectors either disintegrated or broke to some degree. I had to replace all the injector plugs. The worst part was the intake was so warped it wouldn't seal.....and it's a known issue since there is a warpage tolerance in the Lexus manual.... DOH!! Fixed that issue by taking the intake to my machine shop and fly cut it all perfect. Once the vacuum leak was fixed it still did not cure the miss. Since I had to take it apart all over again I decided to replace the timing belt, belt tensioner, water pump, both distributor caps, rotors, plug wires, and spark plugs. The engine has perfect compression across all eight cylinders even at 138K miles. Engine is perfect but the car still had a miss so all I can assume is it's electica. I never was able to pinpoint the issue so the car just sits. I've been working on and restoring cars since 1977 and I've worked on hundreds of cars and this is the first one I was never able to identify or correct the problem. I can't see how you guys can work on these old Lexus cars these days as all the plastic under the hood turns to dust, and my problem was 9 years ago. I'm sticking with my classic cars, they don't have electronics to fail and leave you with a perfectly good car mechanically that is now useless because of the failure of a part that a not available or simply not traceable. Now I need to just get rid of this car, sad because it was a nice car at one time. I have a 98 ls400 with a 1uzfe and just last year i encountered this same problem. On a cold start it ran well until the motor was at operating temperature then would drive like s#*t as if it was mifiring. A few times the vsc light would come on check engine light stayed on. So i took it to my local shop found an air leak on the intake box, changed plugs, did a compression test all cylinders passed. Put it all back together and still did the same thing. I took it to another one of my mechanics who had a better diagnostic computer codes came back and said faulty vvts (variable valve timing solenoid) replaced those as well as removed the valve cover and cleaned the screens. I must say for 400xxx miles there was not any serious sludge. Put it all back together and still same problem. Later i changed timming belt ,tensioner, idler, guides even put new vvt cams in. Problem still continued, my buddy had a ecu that we tested and problem continued to occur. So as of rii now car has been sitting for close to 2 years not sure if anyone knows the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vissine Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 Thank you for sharing. I hope that I won't have to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heavymental Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 On 1/12/2014 at 2:41 PM, landar said: This tool slides right down the back side of the block and, with a 14mm socket attached, can be maneuvered on to each bolt. My son used duct tape on the swivel joints just to hold things in place at the correct angle and that worked nicely. So, be assured that you can get those starter bolts out and back in with this tool. It still takes some patience, but is very do-able. You do not need to remove any coolant bridge, egr pipe... 'nuthin'. 😉 you said you dont have to remove the EGR, but in one of your pics i see it taken off from the upper EGR two bolts. Do you just have to remove the bolts to make it loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1uzls400 Posted September 10 Share Posted September 10 On 1/14/2014 at 5:39 AM, landar said: with the starter main terminal lug wired in but with the starter solenoid terminal connector off So I put the wire onto the bolt tighten it and do not connect the connector correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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