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I'm trying to buy a 90 LS400. The VIN of this car is JT8UF11E5L0004726. I'll buy it from an auction. Can somebody check for me if this car is worth buying it. Also, how much would you think is an reasonable price for this particular car? thank you!

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You said you are buying it an an auction. Can you inspect it?

A 1990 LS400 is perhaps one of the best cars ever made however, it does have it's problems. Although they would be considered minor on American cars, everything is much more expensive on the Lexus. Check the usual items that cause problems carefully, Power steering and rack for leaks ($2,000), suspension control arms and struts for wear ($1000 - $2000), climate control LCD for darkness ($300-$600), Speedo-Tach illumination (not sure of cost estimate). See if the timing bel;t has been changes, check the A/C operation, no A/C could cost you about $2,000 or more

Look carefully for signs of body damage and repairs, maybe do a carfax. Look at the tires, are they good and "V" rated? Then drive the car. I'd go 100mph and see if it is smooth or if it pulls.

Milage is also a factor. With less than 100,000 maybe $7,000, with 150,000 maybe $5,000, with over 200,000 perhaps as low as $3500.

The Lexus dealer will do a complete check for about $75. Wish I had spent it before I bought it.

I paid $6,000 for my 90 LS in 2001 with 120,000 and it was one owner, garage kept and in really nice shape. I have spent about $2,500 on the car since I've had it. Had I known about this forum, that cost would have been maybe $1,500.

Good luck, send pictures

VBdenny

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thanx for ur suggestion, but I'm not sure if I can do all that inspection in an auction rush. besides, I don't think I'll be able to test drive it for the auction is a police auction, and all cars are parked in the garage. but I do will try to follow what u said, though I don't know anything about cars.

Carfax says this car has 6 records in the database, but I don't have access to look into details.

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You know, you can actually pay the $11.00 for the report. Most likely change in registrations, ownerships and so on, but it doesn't hurt to get the full report.

Personally, I wouldn't get it from a police auction unless I had $10k saved up somewhere. I would suggest you bring an expert Technician, who can listen and smell problems from the car.

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I agree. If it came from a police auction- it could be iffy, as it may have seen some major abuse. You can *usually tell by the condition if the car has been abused or not. With this being said- I would not pay too much for the car- without driving it and seeing the mechanical conditions. A lot could be wrong and you would not even know it until it was too late. As a guide- I paid $3995 for my 90 LS400 last year. My car had 224K when I bought it, but it was a 1-owner, garage kept automobile, with like new interior, excellent, silky smooth engine and transmission, but some exterior dings and scratches. The only thing that did/does not work is the A/C. The Lexus dealer quoted me a price of $800 to repair, but I can probably get it cheaper elsewhere.

Overall, these cars are bulletproof and very reliable, but just like VB said- maintainence can be very expensive.

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I agree with all the above suggestions. It's a police auction, but it's an ASSET SEIZURE AUCTION in paticular, so the car is probably in better condition than those red sticker, prisoner's prop or recovered stolen ones. I called and asked about that car, the guy answered phone said the only thing he knows was that the car could move from one garage to another without any problem and starts well. so based on that, I would say maybe $1000 will be a reasonable price.

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Well, one thing that you can easily look at are the muflers or exhast pipes. I was looking into an Honda Accord, but I looked down and it had a huge whole in it. Like everyone else, I'll also say that in older cars electronic problems come into play too. Paint, was also mentioned; this 'can' determine if the car was in a fender bender or even worse, if the colors of the car don't match, (maybe the front fender is darker then rest of the body). You cannot examine the paint in the evening or when the sun is down or in a cloudy day. In a bright sunny day, move back about 30 feet or so, and look at the whole car, if the car color is dark the painted part will stick out.

You can also check if the headlights and taillights work, especially when applying the brakes. One of my friends brought a 1991 Jaguar from an auction, and he had the same problem, the taillights would turn on with the headlights but not with the brakes applied.

I see these kinds of auction as taking a little risk and the results also depend a little on Luck too. So, Good Luck.

Shah.

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Well, one thing that you can easily look at are the muflers or exhast pipes. I was looking into an Honda Accord, but I looked down and it had a huge whole in it. Like everyone else, I'll also say that in older cars electronic problems come into play too. Paint, was also mentioned; this 'can' determine if the car was in a fender bender or even worse, if the colors of the car don't match, (maybe the front fender is darker then rest of the body). You cannot examine the paint in the evening or when the sun is down or in a cloudy day. In a bright sunny day, move back about 30 feet or so, and look at the whole car, if the car color is dark the painted part will stick out.

You can also check if the headlights and taillights work, especially when applying the brakes. One of my friends brought a 1991 Jaguar from an auction, and he had the same problem, the taillights would turn on with the headlights but not with the brakes applied.

I see these kinds of auction as taking a little risk and the results also depend a little on Luck too. So, Good Luck.

Shah.

Not to change the subject, but the Jaguars have terrible electrical systems.

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