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Changing Brake Pads On A 2001

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I have spent a fair amount of time searching about this on this forum and IH8MUD trying to find out what is necessary just to change the pads on my truck. Haven't been able to get a consensus, some say it is hard some say easy some say removing the calipers is necessary some don't, some say re-grease the piston some don't. Just wondering if there is a simple "how to" out there somewhere. I've changed the pads on my Volvo before and it was pretty simple, just assumed it would be similar here but the posts I am seeing are making me start to believe otherwise. Would appreciate any insights or info. Thank you.

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Lots of views, no replies so I'll give you some pointers. My truck has 232K so I've done the pads a few times. ;)

1) the fronts are a "monoblock" style. this means that there are pistons on both sides. you will have to remove the calipers as they are not like what you might find on German cars (like my Porsche). Still, pretty easy. I think they are 15mm bolts. You'll need something to press the pistons back in to make room for the thicker pads.

2) The rears are slider style. On this case, there is a piston on only one side. What I found recently is that on each side, one of the sliders has a rubber boot to create some drag. mine were dry rotted. you can get new pins and rubber bushings from Advance Auto for cheap so I would recommend grabbing a set. If you lube them, get a tube of the slide lubricant, also at autozone. Don't use an all purpose grease because it causes problems with the rubber boot on the pin. these are also pretty easy but getting the snap spring off the outside is a bit of a pain.

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The manual indicate removal of the front caliper. I tend to remove the bottom bolt and swing it upward to get at the pads. I used ceramic brake lube (from Advance Auto) on the backing of the pads and on the sliders mentioned above with good results - the brakes are very quiet. Both front/back disk pad replacements are easy from my perspective. I started out doing drum brakes for years, so disk pads are simple.

One of the key steps after the new pads is to break in the pads/rotors to each other. I take the vehicle out and do a series of about 10 stops from 60 mph down to about 5 mph. This heats up the pads and rotor and although fade can be noticed, the braking will feel smooth and consistent. I then drive at about 60 mph with no stops for about 15 min to let them cool down. It is important to never come to a full stop nor rest at stop with pads engaged during the breakin - or the pads will leave deposits on the rotor and you will have to start all over to get smoothness again. In an unexpected need to stop, I have used the emergency brakes to hold (uses a drum pad in the rear). The Superstop site had a good description for break in several years ago. I have used the method when brakes have become rough - i.e. pad deposits seem to be creating rough stops.

The 100 LC/LX have been unusual for me in that the rear brake pads wear out much faster than the front. I highly favor the OEM pads by Toyota, the only disappointment I can recall is with a set of TRD pads on the front.

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