Jump to content


Regular Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by LXPearl

  1. All the LXs I can recall driving have had vibration in their ride, none have been as smooth riding as my RX or even the all trac Previa I had. The vibration level has varied on the LX/LCs I drove. Some of the newer ones I test drove were worse than my 01 LX. Even so, the LX is a truck in luxury guise with true 4WD, so the drive train and suspension have harmonic impact on the ride, even if the wheels are smooth. I had an excellent alignment tech who is now retired, but he did an excellent job on my vehicles. I always took the LX to him after getting new tires (Michelin LTX M&S H-rated) and he would align and balance. Even with road force, each wheel would have a different balance characteristic, so he would place them at the locations where they would affect the ride the least. His alignments were so good I did not need to rotate the tires but a couple times before replacement at about 70k miles (mostly highway). Since his retirement the alignments and balancing have been more challenging for me in getting a reasonably smooth ride, I have learned that dealers do not routinely use road force balancers even if they are in the shop. Being within specs is not the same as being on target/ideal, and the LX responds to the difference. Wheel/tire combos can challenge an ideal balance based on their own individual variances. I had a dealer work multiple times on my latest set of tires for the LX, but then I took it to someone trained by my former tech, and they improved the ride in one appointment. My conclusion is that the LX/LC is a luxury truck based SUV that is sensitive to both wheel alignment and wheel balance. Anything less than ideal will contribute to ride vibration even within specifications. It seems that some tire dealers get a premium line of tires from the mfg that have tighter specs than others; sometimes price is the guide here. I always thought that was a sales plug, but the variances my alignment tech would show me on the tires he balances seemed to support the scenario of a premium and lesser line of tires based on their allowable tolerances; though all would be within the broader specs for the specific tire. Other observations. New tires are smoother than old, and fresh AHC fluid is smoother riding than the old. The LX is quite impressive on unpaved roads and for me, this capability allows acceptance of some vibration on pavement. In contrast, the RX is very smooth on pavement where it is at home, but not so smooth on unpaved roads where the LX is king.
  2. I had a similar problem that turned out to be a leak from the A/C coil housing along a seam of the housing. I sealed it with tape, and it stopped the leak.
  3. Be sure you did not accidentally push the AHC Off button. Push it again to release it.
  4. The lock works well for the normal setting. If in any other, then the speed overide will reset the system to the normal setting when the speed setting is exceeded. The lock is best used when working on the vehicle with lifts and not when driving. If AHC is in the normal mode and noticeably adjusting at a stop light, there may be other issues with the system that need attention, such as a sensor malfunction or a leak.
  5. Davis When my mirrors quit doing the auto down on reverse while under warranty, the dealer would replace the rear view mirror as a unit, and it would work. There was an improvement made to the main controller at one time, but now it seems the exterior mirror end controller will go bad, primarily the auto mode. Even when my mirror would not auto down, I was able to control it from the main switch manually. When the manual adjustment quits working, I will get a new mirror unit.
  6. When the VSC TRAC lights come on, but no physical driving effects are apparent, then the source is likely electronic. I had an incident where the TRAC started doing its thing of alternately braking etc. while driving straight on dry pavement. Dealer found it was the yaw rate sensor. It has run fine after replacing the sensor. Most DIY readers are good for the simple things, but the dealer diagnostics will do much better at identifying the myriad of sensors on modern vehicles. Some dealers now offer to check the "check engine" light for no charge.
  7. As Silverbullitt mentioned, backing up then forward usually releases it when the light is on and diif lock will not release with a simple push of the button. Sometimes it may take a several iterations if it has not been used in awhile.
  8. Try checking your fan clutch. If stuck in the on condition, it can be quite noisy as engine rpms increase, and may sound like a truck. I usually had them go out causing the engine to heat up, but once it froze and never quit turning - sounded like a truck.
  9. I was considering an AWD 400h as well as an AWD350; but this topic has changed my mind about AWD hybrids. I had an 01LC that I traded in on an 04 Sienna AWD for better mileage on our many family travels at the time. The Sienna was capable in the snow, but the TRAC/VSC was quite noisy, kicking in frequently. It also engaged anoyingly at low speeds prevently steering as desired. The Sienna, Highlander, and RX have the same AWD base; operating as 2wd and auto engaging to AWD when slippage is detected. I quickly started looking for an LC/LX and found an 01LX. The extra cost in gas was well worth the smooth reliability of an excellent AWD system in the LX. I also owned a mid-engine 95 Previa Alltrac that was excellent in snow and ice - pre-VSC/TRAC. It was good in light snow but did not have the clearance to handle heavier snow (>6") well. Tires do not fix inherent vehicle capabilities, but they do improve the capability of a particular vehicle. I found all season tires lost significant traction below half tread; whether 2wd or 4wd, I would replace tires before winter if they were getting close to half tread; especially when we had regular trips on I-70 between KC and Denver. Winter tires have improved, so I may consider a set in the future, especially for my FWD RX300.
  10. benzowner, The Lexus NAV maps are finalized in the fall of each year from several sources. Lexus takes a year for quality review and production. When they release the new DVD version, the map component is already one year old. In contrast, Garmin provides updates about 4x/yr; however, I find errors on them as I travel. The Lexus NAV may give me some strange routings at times, but the map portion, though a bit dated, has been quite reliable. I tend to use both NAV and Garmin while traveling.
  11. dasgeek, Thanks for the simple approach with photos! The photos are an improvement over the TSIB drawings. I had tried what you describe, but when I found the bulb end hard to remove, I hesitated, based on the instructions in the TSIB fcalling for removing the running board to do the lights. I will now do your approach and continue. Per TSIB: - Bulb = PT212-60001-01 - Module end cap w/ bulb = PT212-60002-01 (I suspect the module assy is for those who break it trying to change the bulb?). PS: I was looking at an 06LX a few months ago and it had a different design though generally similar in appearance to my 2001 running board. On it, the puddle lights appeared to have separate bulbs from the fiber optic lights.
  12. Your Differential Lock button got bumped by accident and you experienced the locked 4WD mode. If you are driving on pavement the hard steering is representative of the strain on the drivetrain in locked mode and the damage you can cause to the drivetrain. On the LX the Diff Lock button is on the dash and can accidentally get bumped - I have done it and so has my wife. The impact if engaged while on pavement, and especially with a turn, is enough to cause one to always be aware of where that button is located. In snow, dirt, or mud it is great to have. The LX has fulltime 4WD with a viscous coupling differential and is very effective. I have rarely needed the Diff Lock.
  13. The new drive shaft has lube in the slip yoke. The lube tends to harden with time and prevents grease added from the zerk from getting to the slip yoke. The clunk can get rather irritating - when coming to a stop as well as taking off. When properly lubed, there is a slight engagement feel. Without effective lubing, the thump/clunk can be quite irritating. I drove a used LX for sale at a dealer that was more than slight - it had received regular dealer maintenance, but lubing the driveshaft may not be high on their list to do instead of just "check.".
  14. The manual indicate removal of the front caliper. I tend to remove the bottom bolt and swing it upward to get at the pads. I used ceramic brake lube (from Advance Auto) on the backing of the pads and on the sliders mentioned above with good results - the brakes are very quiet. Both front/back disk pad replacements are easy from my perspective. I started out doing drum brakes for years, so disk pads are simple. One of the key steps after the new pads is to break in the pads/rotors to each other. I take the vehicle out and do a series of about 10 stops from 60 mph down to about 5 mph. This heats up the pads and rotor and although fade can be noticed, the braking will feel smooth and consistent. I then drive at about 60 mph with no stops for about 15 min to let them cool down. It is important to never come to a full stop nor rest at stop with pads engaged during the breakin - or the pads will leave deposits on the rotor and you will have to start all over to get smoothness again. In an unexpected need to stop, I have used the emergency brakes to hold (uses a drum pad in the rear). The Superstop site had a good description for break in several years ago. I have used the method when brakes have become rough - i.e. pad deposits seem to be creating rough stops. The 100 LC/LX have been unusual for me in that the rear brake pads wear out much faster than the front. I highly favor the OEM pads by Toyota, the only disappointment I can recall is with a set of TRD pads on the front.
  15. TSB: AX002-01 April 27, 2001. I have the pdf, but not sure how to post it. Here is a copy and paste of the text. Photos did not make it. It recommends removing the running board to replace the lights. RUNNING BOARD !Removed!’Y: LIGHT BULB OR MODULE END REPLACEMENT – AX002-01 April 27, 2001 Page 2 of 4 1. Remove the 20-amp fuse “ECU B1” from the fuse box located under the hood with a fuse puller or disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery. 2. With the straight screwdriver CAREFULLY pry the top clip of the vehicle electrical connector out of the front bracket so as not to damage the clip (see illustration). Disconnect the connectors. 3. Remove Running Board. Refer to TSIB No. AX004-00, Running Board Installation Instructions. Follow steps 1 – 7 in the section Platform Replacement Procedure: Remove Current Running Board. CAUTION: Do NOT lift the running board by the top of the endcaps (above light pipes). 4. Place the running board on a clean, protected surface. 5. Turn the back ribbed end of the module counterclockwise one quarter turn and pull away from the module body. CAUTION: If the reflector falls out of the module, handle ONLY while wearing cotton gloves. 6. Wearing cotton gloves, reach into the light module and extract the silver reflector bowl. Installation Procedure RUNNING BOARD !Removed!’Y: LIGHT BULB OR MODULE END REPLACEMENT – AX002-01 April 27, 2001 Page 3 of 4 7. If changing the bulb only: Wearing cotton gloves, wiggle the bulb loose, and replace with the new bulb by wiggling back and forth while exerting a slight pressure until seated. 8. If changing the module end: Disconnect the electrical connector of the module end from the wiring harness, and replace with the new module end. NOTE: To replace the module end in the rear endcap, the tie wrap at the wiring connector to the aluminum L–bracket must be cut off and replaced. 9. Still wearing cotton gloves, replace the silver reflector over the bulb until seated and replace the module end into the module body. Apply a slight pressure and turn clockwise one quarter turn ensuring the locking tab on the module end is fully engaged in the hook on the module body. Pull to check that it is seated and engaged. NOTE: Be sure that the “O” ring is installed on the module end before installation. 10. Reinstall running board to vehicle. Refer to TSIB No. AX004-00, Running Board Installation Instructions. Follow steps 1 – 6 under Installation Procedure: Installation & Alignment Procedure. Installation Procedure (Continued) RUNNING BOARD !Removed!’Y: LIGHT BULB OR MODULE END REPLACEMENT – AX002-01 April 27, 2001 Page 4 of 4 1. Adjust the entire running board assembly to allow the front fascia flap’s inner surface to rest on the front cladding fastener mounting surface. Hand start the 10 mm self-tapping mud flap screw through the front running board face. Align the running board to blend with the cladding. 2. Clip together wiring harness connectors. Also, snap vehicle wire harness into top front bracket slot. 3. With a 13 mm socket, torque the 8 mm fasteners of the rear brackets to the following specifications:Torque: 12 ftlbs (16 Nm) 4. With a 13mm socket, torque the 8 mm fasteners of the middle brackets. Torque: 12 ftlbs (16 Nm) 5. With a 13mm socket, torque the 8 mm fasteners of the front brackets. Torque: 12 ftlbs (16 Nm) 6. Tighten 10 mm self-tapping screw in front endcap. 7. Adjust front and rear endcap into rocket. Tighten down the 7/16” nuts on all the brackets. Torque the fasteners to the following: Torque: 8 ftlbs (11 Nm) 8. Reinstall the air conditioning shroud cover over the two air conditioning lines. Use a 10 mm 3/8” drive deep socket (right–hand side only). 9. Reinstall the 20-amp fuse “ECU B1” in the fuse box located under the hood or reconnect the battery cable to the battery. 10. Check running board lights.
  16. I had a timing belt break on an 85 Camry that I bought new. I believe it went out before 70k miles (rated 60k). I was in Texas then and the engine was non-interferance, so the repair was easy. It left me stranded on the freeway at night on my way home - not pleasant. The new timing belts are for 90k and Toyota seems to be making them better. I have heard consistent 150k miles reached. The hot & dry SW USA probably needs changing closer to the 90k.
  17. The LS gets excellent mileage considering it has a V8 in it, besting many V6 vehicles. However, because it has a V8, a heavy foot can lower the mileage quickly. A fresh air cleaner is important with these high tech engines, and the Toyota filter is excellent. I am wary of the K&N, it is designed for racing so it allows more air flow, with less filtering, and introduces oil to the intake and electronic components. A racing engine without emmissions controls that gets broken down and rebuilt regularly allows the K&N filter to be effective. However, in domestic service, it could cause premature problems and failures because of the excess particles and filter oil allowed to enter the engine in comparison to the OEM filter. Even when I had a K&N filter in the past, I could not tell any performance advantage in my F150).
  18. I replaced a starter on a Toyota Previa using the OEM rebuilt unit. It has run flawlessly for over 4 years. I looked it over with the Toyota parts guy when it came in and he thought it was a new unit sold as a rebuilt part - it looked so much like a new one. I trust the Denso rebuilt.
  19. Drain and Fill works well using the Toyota Long Life concentrate with distilled water, or the premix.
  20. I have a 2001 with 197000 miles. Looks, rides and runs great. The lumbar support quit working. Almost bought a 2007 LX470 2 years ago, but my 2001 had a better ride. All synthetic fluids. AHC fluid changed every 60 k miles. Lots of highway miles - outstanding travel vehicle.
  21. You can mix synthetic and non synthetic oil - note the blends that are marketed. The additives are very important for longevity. I have used Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which is heavy on the additive side. It is rated for up to 15K miles, I will go up to 10K with a Toyota or Mobil 1 filter. Most of the quality synthetics have good additive packages. My favorite is Amzoil Signature - I will go over 10K with it. You can adjust according to the condition of the oil at your next change. I have used dino oil with my own synthetic to create a quality blend. I rarely go past the recommended mileage using a blend. If you want to get a huge amount of info, check out Bob Is The Oil Guy, where they get real technical. As Texasoil indicated, the 4.7L LX470 engine is "easy" on oil.
  22. I used the dealer contractor for windshields and he said the PPG was the OEM. It looks equivalent, just does not have "Lexus" on it. It is important to have someone familiar with replacing windshield on the LX. They will need to order the rails from the dealer.
  23. For general all around use it is difficult to beat the Michelins. For the 98-02 models, the Michelin LTX M/S with the H rating was designed for the LC/LX and it performs excellently. It typically costs <$5 more than the S rating, and to me, well worth the difference.
  24. Expect to pay $250 - 300. The upgrade will add a lot of new streets and a few million more point of interests. On my 01 the 07 upgrade was very impressive on the increased information, maps and colors. However, I think it also overwhelms the computer. On a trip of 300 miles or more, I am likely to get some strange routing - detours on small roads that wander around adding a lot of miles to the trip. It acts like all the data points in the new DVD prevent the computer from maintaining a contiguous route from start to finish on a long trip. It helps to save a few milestone points along the way, then do each leg of the trip piecemeal. Mine is a Gen 2, your Gen 3 may do better.
  • Create New...