turbo976 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Hello everyone, just joined the forum after i purchased a 96' ls the other day, i love the car, everything about it is great, the only problem i have with it is the automatic steering wheel that gets stuck in the up position after i take the key out of the ignition and doesn't want to go back down when i start the car again. This makes driving the car a bit awkward, so i was wondering if anyone knew if there was some way to disable the feature instead of getting a new motor which is likely the problem, thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve2006 Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Hi, You haven't searched the forum Look here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...+steering+wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo976 Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Hi,You haven't searched the forum Look here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...+steering+wheel thanks i was looking around, but i must not have looked hard enough, appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xndr400 Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 My '96 had the same problem. What I did before tearing the steering column apart is to check out the micro switch on the ignition lock cylinder. The switch is attached to the underside of the cylinder by two very small phillips screws and has a button that fits up into a slot near the opening of the cylinder. When the key is inserted into the cylinder, it pushes the button down completing the circuit and energizing the tilt/ telescope motors. After years or use, dirt accumulates around the switch button and it can become sticky. I took out the screws and carefully pulled the switch down and away from the cylinder, and by using a small brush and blowing on it, I was able to clean the dirt from around the switch button and the hole in the cylinder. Be careful not to blow dirt into the cylinder. I reinstalled the switch, inserted the key and the column worked properly. You can acess the ingnition switch by removing the lower insturment under cover, then dropping the lower safety panel, this is the panel below the steering column and contains the switches for the trunk lid release and fuel door release and has an air duct, which is just below the column. These coverings are held in place by screws and clips. Then you will have to remove the lock cylinder finish plate, this is the round bezel that surrounds the cylinder, pull it straight out, it's a press fit. Then pull out the cylinder surrounding cover, the square shaped cover that fills the space between the steering column and the center console, it has the round hole for the cylinder and is held in place by retaining clips. This will give you full access to the cylinder and you can remove the switch without removing the cylinder. Just something to check before disassembling the column. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billydpowell Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 WOW, that sounds like more work than putting a washer behind the gear.... but, if the washer is not the problem...... this is good news. I just copied it to my Lexus file... cheers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 If you hear the motor spinning, but the wheel isn't moving, then that recommendation for a fix is correct. But, if you're having a sporatic steering wheel that sometimes goes up and down, and sometimes doesn't "acts like no power going to the wheel motor", then it's an easier fix. There is a TSB about it somewhere. But, what's wrong is the wires to the motor are taped too tightly, causing the wires to tug on the connector when the wheel is extended. Just open up the lower portion of the steering column and follow the wires. When you see a bundle of them wrapped in black tape, just unwind the top portion of the tape a few turns, and you should be good to go. What you're doing "which is exactly what they'll do at the dealership first, for $400" is simply giving the wires a bit more slack, so they don't tug the connection loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo976 Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 thanks for all of the different options, i believe my problem is the one nc211 was describing. Sometimes the motor works and sometimes it doesn't, and other times it only works half way, and its only for the tilt motion the microscope works just fine, but it seems like that is what nc211 is talking about, thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billydpowell Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 If you hear the motor spinning, but the wheel isn't moving, then that recommendation for a fix is correct. But, if you're having a sporatic steering wheel that sometimes goes up and down, and sometimes doesn't "acts like no power going to the wheel motor", then it's an easier fix. There is a TSB about it somewhere. But, what's wrong is the wires to the motor are taped too tightly, causing the wires to tug on the connector when the wheel is extended. Just open up the lower portion of the steering column and follow the wires. When you see a bundle of them wrapped in black tape, just unwind the top portion of the tape a few turns, and you should be good to go. What you're doing "which is exactly what they'll do at the dealership first, for $400" is simply giving the wires a bit more slack, so they don't tug the connection loose. thanks, about once a month one of my 97's will not do both actions, so I need to check this out. sounds like a easy fix... cheers. bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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