jwlane Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 My 96 LS400 I recently purchased seems to me to have a lot of brake pedal travel before the brake start working. It travels a lot farther than the pedal on my 94 LS400. Is it me? Another wiered thing is a noise is coming from under the hood that sounds like a cooling system with an air pocket in the system. I removed the plug on the thermostat houseing and the coolant level was fine. The noise seems to be coming fom the anti-lock brake manifold, where all the barke lines come together. <_< One thing I do know is the previous owner had the front rotors turned, not replaced. Could this be the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRK Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Check that the caliper slides are moving freely, and look at the pads to see if any are tapered, which indicates a caliper that is not advancing and retracting squarely. A stuck slider pin will cause a pedal drop for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwlane Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Check that the caliper slides are moving freely, and look at the pads to see if any are tapered, which indicates a caliper that is not advancing and retracting squarely. A stuck slider pin will cause a pedal drop for sure. I will most certainly check it out! Thank you for the speedy reply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PureDrifter Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Check that the caliper slides are moving freely, and look at the pads to see if any are tapered, which indicates a caliper that is not advancing and retracting squarely. A stuck slider pin will cause a pedal drop for sure. I will most certainly check it out! Thank you for the speedy reply! the 2LS doesnt have caliper slides in the front, uses 4piston opposed calipers. most likely you're either low on brake fluid, or just need a brake fluid bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 If the brakes work well but it takes alot of pedal travel to make them grip you need to rebuild the calipers seals. it is an easy job as i just did mine and i now have brakes again . It is basiacally the seals holding the piston are old and letting fluid pass them instead of applying the pressure only to the pistons. I have an extra OEM set for my 98 LS front and rear $100 which will do all 4 calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PureDrifter Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 If the brakes work well but it takes alot of pedal travel to make them grip you need to rebuild the calipers seals.it is an easy job as i just did mine and i now have brakes again . It is basiacally the seals holding the piston are old and letting fluid pass them instead of applying the pressure only to the pistons. I have an extra OEM set for my 98 LS front and rear $100 which will do all 4 calipers. if it were the seals wouldnt you see a brake fluid leak? at the pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve2006 Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 If you "pump" the brake pedal a few times does the pedal travel decrease? If it improves the travel doing this it is normally an indication of air in the braking system so replace your fluid and bleed all the brakes this is the cheap option before you start spending mega $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 No , you would not see fluid unless your seals are dead and the piston falls out. The seals are holding the fluid but allowing it to by pass a small amount which over 10 pistons means volumes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwlane Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 Thanks to everyone for the replies. I did (on the front so far) take the pads off, clean up all contacts points and brushed a little anti-sieze on them. I haven't driven it yet to see if it helped. If I do have air in the lines, is there a certain procedure for bleeding the anti-lock manifold? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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